Walking. Gossip. Travel.

Category: Malta

  • Malta – South Eastern Region – Valletta – Wild Honey

    Malta – South Eastern Region – Valletta – Wild Honey

    Wild Honey is a small craft beer bar in the centre of Valletta and I think it’s fair to say that I liked this place. A lot.

    Beers in the fridges, some really innovative choices there.

    The staff member was personable and keen to make recommendations, and I was particularly excited when he suggested the Chocolate Cherry Yeti stout from the Great Divide Brewing Company in Denver, Colorado. The beer was excellent, at the appropriate temperature, slightly light on initial taste but with deep afternotes of chocolate and cherry. Which is good, as that’s what they’ve called the beer. Seeing this beer in Valletta was a delight, it must have been a right faff to get this here.

    There are only around six tables inside, making it cosy and well, small.

    There’s natural character in this bar, which the decor adds to. That’s the toilet to the right of the photo, neatly fitted into the very small space. Half of the tables were reserved when we visited, which was a mid-day evening in March, so I’m not sure how easy it is to get a seat during the warmer summer months. But, it’s in the heart of Valletta, so it’s easy enough to take a little stroll by and have a look.

    Liam enjoying some drink outside that he would have liked the look of (well, the look of the pump clip). There were a few tables here, although with the slight caveat that smokers may set up shop nearby.

    I was tempted to stay here for longer, and could have happily done so, but there were more craft beer bars to investigate….. It seems that they offer food judging from the reviews on-line, and it looks of a similar high quality to the beer.

    The reviews on TripAdvisor are, quite rightly in my view, very positive, although one visitor must have made clear he was ready to leave a negative review:

    “The two chaps who seemed to be running the place were less that obliging and we just left them with the undrinkable wine after a less than professional exchange once they got wind that we were likely to take the advice of the sticker they had in the window, and leave our impressions on ‘Tripadvisor’.”

    Anyway, a marvellous bar which was quirky, authentic and which had excellent beer.

  • Malta – South Eastern Region – Valletta – Beer Cave

    Malta – South Eastern Region – Valletta – Beer Cave

    There aren’t a large number of craft beer bars in Valletta, or indeed in Malta, so it wasn’t too onerous a challenge to try and visit them all in an evening. Liam and I were certainly brave and courageous in our endeavours. The first one of the evening was the Beer Cave, located under the Castille Hotel in the heart of the city.

    The entrance takes you straight down into the cellar, or cave, and it feels like a welcoming place. With one exception, which was the ridiculous volume of the music. I assume they thought it would attract people, but I can’t think of one single craft beer bar I’ve been to where they play music at high levels when there’s no-one in there. Personally, I like those bars who generate their own atmosphere without needing the crutch of music, but if they’re going for that (and this venue is big on live music and bands, which they seemingly do well), it’s probably best set against how many people are actually in the bar. So, we were always destined to make this a quick visit.

    The staff member was friendly enough, I’m not sure that he was entirely familiar with the options, but since he couldn’t clearly hear what I was saying and I couldn’t clearly hear what he was saying, it’s a hard one to call. Which is another issue really, this type of bar can surely only benefit from lots of engagement between customers and the bar staff, or just between customers. I’m perhaps just too old to be doing lots of yelling. The beer choices were also pretty well curated in terms of beer types, it seemed to cater to most needs. I had my delicious stout and Liam got his grapefruit pale ale.

    Downstairs, in an atmospheric location at least. I’d say that this is a music venue which happens to sell craft beer as opposed to a craft beer bar, but it’s well reviewed and so is clearly meeting a need. The bar remained empty all the time that we were in there, other than for two people who came down the steps and then went back up them again. Anyway, I’m glad it’s there, craft beer should be for the many, not the few.

  • Malta – Southern Region – Snakes

    Malta – Southern Region – Snakes

    I wasn’t entirely thrilled to see this. Apparently there are black Western Whip snakes and Leopard snakes roaming around free and unhindered in the area….. I checked and the Leopard snake doesn’t eat prey the size of a leopard, it just has similar colouring and is also known as a ratsnake. The black Western Whip snakes can grow to as long as two metres in length, and although I’m sure it’s a very lovely animal, I don’t want to meet one in the wild. Fortunately, we didn’t see any snakes whilst in Malta, but I tried to walk quite heavily to scare any off that might be nearby.

  • Malta – Southern Region – Fawwara Church of the Annunciation

    Malta – Southern Region – Fawwara Church of the Annunciation

    There has been a church on this site since the early seventeenth century, although the current building primarily dates to the early eighteenth century. The earlier church had become a bit dilapidated and mostly fallen down, so it wouldn’t have been a difficult decision to make. The construction was funded by the Xiberras family and was constructed to a better design standard than the original structures, being dedicated in 1708.

    The church wasn’t open when we walked by, although it remains in religious use. It was originally dedicated to the Assumption of Our Lady, although this was changed to the Annunciation of the Virgin Mary when it was reconstructed.

  • Malta – A Very Curious Custom

    Still intrigued by the book about Malta written by Thomas MacGill in the 1830s, he tells of a very curious custom that it is fortunately long since consigned to history. Or, certainly in Malta at least.

    “A curious custom exists in the Island of giving puppy broth to people pining away from a fright, and in some cases obstructions in young people. The puppy is thrown alive into boiling water, and boiled down to a strong broth, a basin of this is given to the patient, who is kept in ignorance of what it is made from, until it is eaten, then he is informed. He is shown the remains, the idea is that one disgust cures another, it is said to have a good effect.”

  • Malta – Gozo – Accommodation in the Early Nineteenth Century

    Malta – Gozo – Accommodation in the Early Nineteenth Century

    Back to the book written by Thomas MacGill in the 1830s, I noticed his summary of the accommodation in Gozo. It seems that visitors weren’t always as well attended for as they are today. Referring to what was later renamed Victoria, he wrote:

    “Only a very few years ago, strangers visiting Gozo, were forced to carry with them not only their bedding, but even the common necessities of life, and trust for cover to the hospitality of some Convent. But such is the march of improvement, that now, within the walls of the citadel, there is an excellent house of entertainment kept by an Englishman named Griffiths, where clean and comfortable beds can be had, and dinners, with good wines, in English style and at a moderate charge. In the town also, there are now some houses of reception, kept by natives and one kept by a man named Filippo is very comfortable”

    I am grateful that today we have Google Maps which aids in finding hotel accommodation, I’d dread to return to a time when I’d have to ask the locals “where is Filippo’s accommodation?” in a bid to find somewhere to stay.

  • Malta – Southern Region – Sciuta Tower

    Malta – Southern Region – Sciuta Tower

    This is one of the ten Lascaris Towers which were built 1637 and 1652, with nine of the towers still standing today. Sciuta Tower is located near to the Blue Grotto, making it one of the most visible of the towers given the number of passing visitors. This particular tower was built in 1638 and one of the De Redin Towers was later built relatively nearby to this one. It was used until the Knights of St. John were forced to leave Malta, with the British using it until 1873 when it then fell out of use as a military defence post other than for a brief period during the Second World War. It has since been used as a police station and storage tower, but has recently been renovated and restored.

    The tower can now be accessed by the public, but it was closed when we walked by. It’s one of the last sights to see on the heritage walk which starts at Dingli Cliffs and anyone walking by it along the coast will see some excellent views of the Blue Grotto.

  • British Airways (Malta to Gatwick South) – Fourth Time

    British Airways (Malta to Gatwick South) – Fourth Time

    Above is the BA aircraft G-MIDT after we had arrived back into Gatwick on service BA2645. I haven’t flown on this particular aircraft before, it was brought into service in 2001 for use by bmi British Midland and then was taken over by BA in August 2012.

    Boarding was smooth and without any delays, they called Groups 1 to 3 in one go and then Groups 4 and 5 went separately. There were sufficient seats in the boarding area for customers this time, something which isn’t always the case at Malta’s airport.

    As seems usual in Malta, there’s a short walk to the aircraft and then customers use steps to board.

    We had the aisle and middle exit row seats, with no-one sitting at the window, so Liam moved there. The cabin crew noted how sun-burnt Liam was to add to the occasion, with the crew always being efficient and pro-active during the flight. The loads were light, I’m not sure that the aircraft was even half-full in terms of the Euro Traveller cabin, a result perhaps of the current coronavirus situation. That did though mean that there was no shortage of space in the overheads and boarding wasn’t delayed whilst bags were shuffled around.

    Boarding was though delayed as a result of French air traffic control, an element of which was on strike, which meant that we departed around twenty minutes later than expected. However, the pilots kept us informed and nearly all of this delay was made up en route back to Gatwick, a flight which took just under three hours. The flight itself was uneventful, all calm and comfortable, with the cabin crew making appropriate announcements, although the pilot seemed to get distracted when making her announcements, but I admit that it is rather more important to fly the plane.

    Another perfectly acceptable flight from British Airways, with Gatwick South being well staffed so we had no delays getting through border control and then back to the long-stay car park.

  • Malta – Gozo – Nadur

    Malta – Gozo – Nadur

    Nadur is a quiet town in Gozo and we had opportunity to spend one night there this week in some farm accommodation. A handbook from 1839 noted that Nadur is:

    “Nadur, on a hill, is cultivated to near its summit, here the finest fruits of the island are produced. Most people visit this fine hill, from its beautiful and extensive view of the island and its vicinity, and from the females being the handsomest on the island”.

    The last line is hardly one that Lonely Planet or the Rough Guides would use today, but the rest of the information provided is true, the views from the town are certainly beautiful and extensive. Around 4,500 people live in the town today, which takes its name from the old Maltese word meaning ‘lookout’. It’s just a short walk from Nadur to Ġgantija, one of the oldest temple sites which is over 5,500 years old, suggesting that there’s been human occupation around this area for at least that long.

    Here are the views.

    The Basilica of St. Peter and St. Paul, which was unfortunately not open when we were there. It’s beautifully lit at night though and it is the centrepiece of the town.

    Life feels relaxed on Nadur, there’s something quite timeless about the town.

    A empty property in the town square, next to a bank and there are several bars and a couple of shops in the town. Our dining option in the evening, of which more in a separate post, was at the excellent Fat Rabbit.

    These steps are in the main town square and I’m unsure what they led to, perhaps an air raid shelter.

    A religious statue.

    A street in the town.

    A small park, located between the town and San Blas Beach.

    There’s a road down from the town to Mgarr, which is Gozo’s harbour and gateway to the ferry service which goes to the main island. Unfortunately some of the road is missing at the moment, although there’s a makeshift path that pedestrians can use. If they like mud that is.

  • Malta – Gozo – Mgarr Harbour

    Malta – Gozo – Mgarr Harbour

    Visitors today disembark the ferry from the main island of Malta at Mgarr Harbour, at the south of Gozo. Although the new ferry terminal is relatively new, dating from the early part of the 21st century, there has been a ferry operating here since at least the early thirteenth century.

    When a ferry comes into the harbour today, there’s quite a queue for buses, although in our case we just waited for the third bus which was much quieter. For the sake of a short wait, it made for a more comfortable ride. Anyway, what I liked was a guide book written by Thomas MacGill in 1839, who describes the scene back then in what he referred to as Migiarra.

    “Migiarra offers no convenience to people landing, except a dirty coffee shop, the houses or huts on the beach are for the reception of fishermen and those attending the boats. But there are always in waiting an abundance of asses, to transport visitors into the interior and there are now also some calesses [carts] of a very ordinary description for those who do not choose to ride.”

    Things have improved somewhat since then, but I can imagine the scene, the hustle and bustle of excitement of the incoming ferry and then the need to shuttle people to the centre of Gozo. In many ways, not much has changed, although I’m sure that the coffee shop situation is now much better.