Walking. Gossip. Travel.

Category: London

  • London – Hackney (Borough of) – Hackney – Travelodge

    London – Hackney (Borough of) – Hackney – Travelodge

    The Travelodge in Hackney is on the left-hand side of this photo (in the building, not the railway station platform as even Travelodge haven’t got rooms that basic), easy to reach from the city centre by bus or London Overground. In terms of noise, I like the sound of trains overnight, but then again, I’ve long since decided that I like urban sounds (I mean in relation to the background noise of a city, not a type of music) such as this to feel the most rested. My tolerance of noise is less liked by some others though judging from their reviews about being kept awake.

    There is a shared door with Kip Hotels to get into the building, a slightly unusual set-up of two rival hotels with one entrance.

    Anyway, let me at least try to paint some kind of picture of the scene on arrival. I entered the reception area and an alarm was going off throughout the building. The receptionist looked stressed, she now had two waiting guests and she didn’t know why the alarm was going off. She ran out of reception looking quite harassed by the situation and went to investigate why her hotel wasn’t working properly. It’s not an ideal welcome to be honest.

    Then a man with his two sons (or I assume they were his) came into reception and it’s fair to say that these children were not the quietest that I’ve ever encountered. The receptionist comes back at this point and apologises for the wait, but she says she needs to keep investigating as she can’t work out why an alarm is going off. At this point, the man explains that his two kids might have been the cause of the alarm due to a tripping incident near the lift. This was a relief for the receptionist, she now knew why her hotel was broken. She disappeared off to try and turn the alarm off, but she seemed pleased that she understood what had happened.

    Another staff member appeared, who was a sea of calm in a reception where two children were running around screaming and an alarm was going off. She dealt with the customer in front of me and ensured he was content, before trying to assist the man with his two children. I had by this point moved out of the queueing arrangement to stand near the wall, which stopped the two loud children running around me. The man kindly mentioned that I had been first, but I’m a helpful sort of person and I let him go ahead as he needed a new keycard. This altruistic behaviour of mine was, if I’m being honest, also useful to discover what part of the hotel the kids were located in so that I wasn’t near to them. I have a feeling that the receptionist guessed this, I was placed on the ground floor which was as far as possible to have been placed away from the kids.

    I’d add that the children weren’t bad, but they seemed to be quite loud and I like the noise of trains and traffic, I’m less good with the sound of exuberant children. Anyway, I digress.

    The bedroom was fine, it’s not the largest Travelodge room that I’ve had, but it met my requirements. It had a door, a window that opened, a ceiling, walls, a bathroom, a carpet that didn’t stick, clean bedsheets, a desk, a bin, a kettle, towels and a light. There are quite a few requirements there, but I think that some of them are quite basic needs. And, I heard no more noise either internally or externally until I checked out, although I’m unsure how many guests there actually were in the rest of the building.

    I didn’t see any staff members when checking out and if it wasn’t for the excitement of check-in, I feel I might have found the whole experience just a little unnotable. This room cost under £20 for the night, which is ridiculous for a London hotel the week before Christmas. But, we live in interesting times….

  • London – Newham (Borough of) – Travelodge ExCeL

    London – Newham (Borough of) – Travelodge ExCeL

    This isn’t a good time for hotels in London, and I can’t imagine many times where Travelodge have been selling off rooms in the capital at under £20 just a couple of nights before the stay. So, this looked like a rather good price and the hotel is conveniently located next to a DLR station, and also next to where I stayed last week at the Holiday Inn Express.

    My expectations were frankly a little low, a room of £20 and some not great recent reviews didn’t fill me with confidence. In reality, it was all absolutely fine. There was no noise internally or externally, the room was clean and the staff member at reception was friendly and helpful. It was also useful that the staff member asked if I wanted a floor on a lower floor or at the top, so I went with my standard “top floor, away from lift” option. The room wasn’t enormous, but it was perfectly sufficient and there was free tea and coffee. Definitely hard to complain at under £20 per night.

    To my slight surprise, this was a slightly better built hotel than the Holiday Inn Express that’s next door. That hotel has been built with no individual air conditioning units and no facility to open windows. The Travelodge had gone for the approach of a window that opens to cool things and a heater to heat. I like such simple solutions, although it might be too hot in the summer (one reviewer said it was and they gave up with their room to sleep in the hotel’s bar). But I’m sure they offer fans then. The room could have done with some plug sockets near to the bed, but perhaps they’ll be put in when the hotel is refurbed.

    As an aside, one thing that annoys me slightly is the hotel’s response to reviews, which is pretty much always the same. There are all manner of reviews, from staff members bursting into a room when a customer was changing to a few allegations of theft and bed bugs, all with the exact same response from the hotel as they replied to someone who mentioned they found a hair on the floor. I like reviews from managers who just tell the truth, they’re more entertaining.

    Anyway, all rather good value for under £20.

  • London – City of London – London Mithraeum

    London – City of London – London Mithraeum

    A few years ago I went to the Cavern Club in Liverpool and was moderately disappointed to discover that it’s not quite in the same place as the original. In 1973, British Rail decided that they must definitely have the site of the Cavern Club (although they were prepared to build elsewhere if they were given some extra money to pay for their costs) and so they compulsorily purchased it, filled it in, then decided they didn’t want it. An attempt was later made to excavate the site which wasn’t entirely successful, so the current Cavern Club is sort of where the old one was with some of the same bricks.

    And, I mention this tangential story because this is what has happened to the London Mithraeum. Not British Rail this time, but Legal & General and the construction of their far from beautiful Bucklersbury House. It would have been possible to redesign the building and keep the Roman finds, but the Government announced it would cost £500,000 and they weren’t spending that. However, it shouldn’t be under-estimated just how interested Londoners were, it attracted unprecedented interest for historic remains and the site was being opened three hours earlier than anticipated in its last week, such were the number of people who wanted to see it. These were challenging times for London in the mid-1950s where much was still being rebuilt following the war, so there was a great deal of positivity when this Roman structure was being uncovered.

    The end result was that they shoved out the Roman remains into the street and called it a compromise. Perhaps less a compromise and more of a sell-out. There was talk of just destroying the site entirely, so the option chosen did at least save the stones. Anyway, Bucklersbury House has now gone and been replaced by a lovely new building designed by Fosters & Partners. And it’s in the cellar of that new building that this temple now resides once again.

    The hole that was dug for the Legal & General building. There’s a lot of history, including some interesting video of people there in the 1950s, at the official web-site at https://www.londonmithraeum.com/about/. Given the quantity of information there, I’ll just borrow a little of their text to ensure my history is correct.

    “The site lies over the course of one of London’s lost rivers, the Walbrook. Nearly 2,000 years ago when Londinium was founded by the Romans, this river marked the limits of their first settlement. In the 3rd century AD, nearly 200 years after the founding of London, a Roman Londoner, built a temple to the god Mithras on this reclaimed ground, next to the river.

    The mysterious cult of Mithras first appeared in Rome in the 1st century AD. It spread across the Empire over the next 300 years, predominantly attracting merchants, soldiers and imperial administrators. Meeting in temples which were often constructed below ground, these were private, dark and windowless spaces. The mythological scene of Mithras killing a bull within a cave, the ‘tauroctony’ is at the heart of the cult, and its full meaning is subject of much speculation.”

    But, going back in this story a little bit, there’s a ground floor entrance to the new Bloomberg Building which gives access to a museum and public space. The first surprise was seeing my friend Steve, who had coincidentally booked the exact same time to visit the same location. And there was one other person (who we didn’t know) booked for this time, as although the tickets are free, they need to be pre-booked at the moment. And we chose the right day to book our tickets to visit, as changing tier restrictions meant that this was to be its final day of opening for the moment.

    This is the first part of the experience. I’m not sure they call it an experience, but it’s a word that perhaps adds an extra dimension to a visit, so I’m using it. The staff member who welcomed us gave a spirited explanation of it. The other person vaguely looked at it and walked off, whereas Steve and I decided we would make an effort to look at it and pretend to understand it. I’m not sure that we did, and I did think this would be a handy spot for a cafe. I’m not sure that’s what the artist had intended me to think, but there we go.

    Some of the finds are now on display, although 14,000 items were found, so I’m not entirely sure where the rest are. Going downstairs, and before getting slightly lost, we found the second part of the museum, where there are some screens giving more of the site’s history.

    And, this is the centrepiece of the attraction located down another flight of stairs. I understand there’s usually some form of audio-visual experience for visitors before entering here, but for reasons unknown, the current health situation makes that impossible.

    And another photo of the Roman remains with visitors being able to walk around the outside. I couldn’t help be distracted by the neatness of the stones, it all felt too polished and modern. And the reasons for this are clear, namely that when they moved it to an outside location and slightly crudely rebuilt it, much of the original was lost in terms of the mortar and indeed its authenticity. Eric Morecambe’s line is often quoted, but there’s an element of truth to say that “there are all the right stones, but not necessarily in the right order”.

    There’s an article in the Sphere on 23 October 1954 with a photo of a wall being built, subtitled “workmen are rebuilding the lower walls with the stones made by Roman masons”. I’m not convinced that there was complete archaeological rigour going on with the rebuilding, although this seems to have been glossed over a little in the telling of the temple’s story.

    But, I have no complaint with the efforts made by Bloomberg, they’ve restored some dignity to this site after some rather casual and off-hand treatment of it over the last few decades. The web-site they’ve created is informative and useful, with the reviews of the museum nearly all veering towards the very positive. And there’s been some magic put back to these stones, in whatever order they’ve been relaid. A visit isn’t likely to take much more than thirty minutes, but I’m glad that I got to see this site at Walbrook.

  • London – Kensington and Chelsea (Borough of) – Ibis Styles Kensington (Eighth Visit)

    London – Kensington and Chelsea (Borough of) – Ibis Styles Kensington (Eighth Visit)

    This blog wouldn’t be complete without yet another post about this hotel in Kensington…. I still like the hotel, the welcome is friendly, the hotel is clean and the prices are highly competitive. Not only have I managed to post here multiple times about this hotel, I’ve also bored friends with it as well and one of them also happened to be staying here for the weekend.

    I was upgraded to a larger room and I think this is one of my favourites in the hotel. Spacious and with numerous seating options dotted around the place.

    There was a bath, as well as a separate shower (that isn’t in the photo), all very decadent.

    There is a balcony as well, but they’re locked that off.

    This was the view on Sunday morning. Rain. Not ideal…..

    There was no Tiger left, so this was my welcome drink choice. It was free, so I won’t complain.

    My obligatory breakfast bag photo…. I did go down in the basement to get a coffee, although it seemed to be measuring out rather small portions, albeit delicious tasting small portions.

    So, once again, all was fine and nothing exceptional happened that I feel the need to mention. And, this is good in a hotel, I don’t want too much drama. Incidentally, I hear that Richard had lots of drama in his two hotel visits this weekend elsewhere in the country, it’s a shame he doesn’t have a blog….

  • London – Westminster (Borough of) – National Gallery (Christ and the Woman taken in Adultery)

    London – Westminster (Borough of) – National Gallery (Christ and the Woman taken in Adultery)

    This cheery little number doesn’t belong to the National Gallery where it is currently located, it’s usually in the collections of the Courtauld Gallery which has been closed for a couple of years due to renovations to the building. They probably chose quite a good time to get the work done, assuming that they’ve been able to progress with it at all this year.

    Anyway, it’s by Pieter Bruegel the Elder and it was painted in 1565. The grey nature of the artwork is deliberate, it’s in the Grisaille style and this is one of the best known paintings which have used this style of having multiple grey colours. The painting shows a number of Jewish sect members who have brought a woman accused of adultery to Christ so that he could condemn her to death by stoning. Instead, he asked if anyone amongst them was without sin, then they could be the first to throw a stone at her.

    It’s the only painting which the artist passed down to his son, Jan Brueghel the Elder. The painting was then passed down to his son, Jan Brueghel the Younger who loved it so much that he flogged it off. It was sold at Christie’s in 1834 and then again in 1952, but was donated to the Courtauld Gallery in 1978. Someone then pinched it in 1982 and that wasn’t entirely ideal, particularly since it wasn’t recovered until 1992.

  • London – Westminster (Borough of) – National Gallery (Visit 2)

    London – Westminster (Borough of) – National Gallery (Visit 2)

    This is my second visit to the National Gallery under the current restrictions, as there was just too much to see during my first visit. It’s free to get in, although tickets have to be pre-booked and they do enforce that, although someone did try and just sneak in when I was there. As can be seen in the photos below, this wasn’t the busiest of locations, although it got a bit busier during the early afternoon when I was leaving.

    As an aside, this is now rated on TripAdvisor as the top thing to do in London, number 1 out of 2,339 places, which is a pretty impressive effort. Although I noticed a few times on this visit and my last one that the staff struggled to answer questions that other people were asking, and although the staff were polite, I did wonder whether some of them were interested in art at all. I’m not quite sure if art knowledge is part of their required job role and how much of their role is ensuring the security and the safety of the gallery, perhaps that’s their only function. I had no such issues, I have the Internet to answer my questions…..

    Anyway, all rather lovely, more posts to come on this.

  • London – Kensington and Chelsea (Borough of) – Victoria and Albert Museum (Figures From Bristol High Cross)

    London – Kensington and Chelsea (Borough of) – Victoria and Albert Museum (Figures From Bristol High Cross)

    These are two of those random items at a museum, in this case the Victoria and Albert Museum, that might not look overly exciting at first glance, but they have a rather exotic heritage. Well, sort of. They date to around 1400 and were part of the Bristol High Cross, located in the heart of the city. Unfortunately, it was so central that it got in the way of traffic and so in 1733 it was taken down, in a forerunner to many similar decisions from councils in the centuries that followed.

    So, after the council faffed about with the bits of their High Cross for a few years, it was moved to College Green in 1736. And here it is above, located near to Bristol Cathedral, well out of everyone’s way. Then people complained again, it was in the way of how they wanted to promenade around the area, so they took it down in 1762 and shoved the bits in the cloisters of the Cathedral.

    Then, an overly generous Cutts Barton, the then Dean of Bristol, gave the city’s entire High Cross to the banker Henry Hoare II for his country estate at Stourhead. I’m not convinced that this was for the many and not the few, but there we go. A century later, the Victorians wanted to get their High Cross put back in Bristol, but it was now thought to be too badly damaged. After much faffing about, there is now a replica in Bristol which has been moved on numerous occasions to deal with the latest wave of complaints.

    Until 1980, all of Bristol’s High Cross still remained at Stourhead, now a National Trust property. This is when the four statues were sent to the Victoria and Albert Museum, although the rest of the cross is still there. And here they are today, likely representing four Kings who it’s thought might be King John, King Henry III, King Edward I and King Edward III.

  • London – Brent (Borough of) – Wembley – Ibis Wembley (Third Visit)

    London – Brent (Borough of) – Wembley – Ibis Wembley (Third Visit)

    Once again, this post is more for me to remember another night in Wembley rather than any extra use that a third report on the same hotel can offer anyone else. There’s not much useful I can add about the welcome, the staff member was friendly and the check-in procedure was painless. Certainly nothing negative to mention.

    The room, on the fourteenth and top floor again. All clean and as it should be, although it doesn’t have a television like the first time I stayed where I could cast my phone to it. I managed to get by without such decadence. I did note that the desk had been fixed, by use of supports, from what looked like when a previous guest had sat on it or similar…

    The Government’s new rules means that hotel bars can stay open if customers order a substantial meal with their alcohol, or if they just have soft drinks. The hotel rules do though allow customers to take alcohol to their room, so that’s what happened to my welcome drink. Not really ideally poured, but I was just pleased that the drink option was still available and that Goose Island Midway Session IPA was still there.

    The view from the room over the Borough of Brent. There’s no shortage of construction work going on around here, I assume primarily residential as it’s quite an easy location to commute to and from for those wanting to work in the capital.

    And the view over Wembley in the morning, although I think I prefer the night-time view. Anyway, all was quiet in the hotel, they have windows that open to allow for ventilation, the temperature was perfect and I have nothing negative to say. How very lovely.

  • London – Kensington and Chelsea (Borough of) – Victoria and Albert Museum (Reliquary Diptych)

    London – Kensington and Chelsea (Borough of) – Victoria and Albert Museum (Reliquary Diptych)

    This rather lovely item (or, to be precise, two items as it’s two halves of a folding reliquary and has two catalogue numbers) is in the collections of the Victoria and Albert Museum. And, whilst I’m wittering on, I’m very impressed at the level of information about this item (and I’m hoping many others) on their web-site, there are tens of paragraphs of information about these reliquaries and far more than I can ever really understand.

    I like reliquaries, especially personal ones which would have been deeply important to their owners, although this was likely made for a monastery. This one is thought to have been made in Spoleto, a town nearby to Perugia in Italy, in the 1320s. Some of the relics are still in the recessed area, although others are missing or have moved about. It’s not entirely clear who each item was associated with, but there are a few bone fragments.

    There’s lots of provenance for this item, something I’m nearly always intrigued by, I quite like how ownership of items has worked out over time. It was owned by Serafino Tordelli (1787-1864) who was a collector of items who lived in Spoleto, and it was purchased by the dealer Giuseppe Baslini (1817-1877) after Tordelli’s death. The museum then purchased the reliquaries for £4 (£250 in today’s money according to the National Archives) on 17 July 1868.

    The number of faked relics reached the point in the medieval period that there were more body parts for some saints than the individual had limbs for. Many of relics were destroyed during the Reformation and there’s no evidence for many relics at all, other than hearsay. But, at the time it was a personal connection which would have been important and the destruction of so many relics during the Reformation must have caused some considerable distress.

  • London – Kensington and Chelsea (Borough of) – Victoria and Albert Museum

    London – Kensington and Chelsea (Borough of) – Victoria and Albert Museum

    I can’t remember the last time that I went to the Victoria and Albert Museum, it certainly isn’t in the last few years. I’ve also never quite understood what the collections policy of the museum is and what they focus on, although I think it’s primarily decorative items that aren’t covered by other national museums.

    The museum opened in 1852 as the Museum of Manufactures, something of a legacy from the Great Exhibition of 1851. The museum was renamed as the South Kensington Museum, moved to its current location in 1857 and was renamed again as the Victoria and Albert Museum in 1899.

    The V&A is is one of the best rated museums in the world on review sites and I couldn’t find anything negative about my four hour visit there today. The staff at the entrance were welcoming, the security guard was friendly, the signage was clear, the web-site is detailed, everything worked as it should. The collections are enormous, I hadn’t realised that there were seven miles of exhibits should they somehow be stretched out.

    Anyway, lots more individual posts on certain exhibits to follow, but below are some photos from the interior. One thing that might be apparent is that it wasn’t exactly packed with other visitors. Despite spending four hours at the museum, I didn’t get to see everything, this is somewhere that needs multiple visits to properly understand.