Walking. Gossip. Travel.

Category: London

  • London – Southwark (Borough of) – Brew by Numbers Taproom

    London – Southwark (Borough of) – Brew by Numbers Taproom

    After a busy morning in central London, I thought that I’d return to the Bermondsey Beer Mile for a little reward at lunchtime. In the background of the photo above is the Shard, although it perhaps doesn’t show how bloody hot the weather was today. These units under the railway arches aren’t the largest, but there were several bench style seats inside, and a few external tables carefully partitioned off from the road.

    Incidentally, this is what these units looked like just a few years ago. The area has been transformed, although I’m not sure what the owners of the residential properties opposite think. Personally, I’d be pleased, although I suspect that some might not be quite as excited at the change.

    The table I was offered was outside, although I’d have been happy in a cold corner inside (I may have mentioned that I’m not one for hot weather), but I was at least more at the centre of the action where I was seated. It got busier quickly so that soon all of the outside tables were taken. The service was attentive and friendly, but I’d be disappointed if any craft beer business around here wasn’t. My server apologised in advance (a good tactic, I pre-warn people I might make mistakes in advance) that he was new that day, although I know there are some hospitality staff who say that even when it’s not actually their first day. Either way, he was a perfectly good server, so all was well.

    The beer list and the completist in me loves this whole numbering process and their web-site explains this:

    “Though experimentation, they progressed quickly by splitting batches and performing different tests on them. The winner of these batches would be brewed again, and the process repeated to find original flavour combinations. The numbering system attributed to these early gave rise to their name – Brew By Numbers. In April 2012, they took their ‘Hoppy Saison’ to the staff at Craft Beer Co. Clerkenwell for their critique. This beer would later become 01|01 and would be critical in shaping BBNo’s place in the market – an unusual style no other UK breweries where offering regularly at that time.”

    As an aside, Craft Beer Co in Clerkenwell is bloody good.

    On the right is 19|Gose – Mango, Guava and Passion Fruit and that colour is quite beautiful, it reminded me of a mango lassi that I’ve had in India. A rich mouthfeel, pleasant tropical taste although the aftertaste wasn’t quite as rich as I had expected, but this is still a rather beautiful beer. There’s meant to be notes of sea salt in it for balance, although I couldn’t detect them. On the left is the 10|Coffee Porter – Sumava which was beautifully rich with a depth of flavour and a heavy aftertaste of coffee. I liked this a lot, and although it was 9.5%, that wasn’t noticeable as the drink was quite smooth.

    All in all, this is another taproom style set-up that I like, from a brewery that I’ve had a few beers from this year already. I suspect they will become more prominent and they offer some experimental and innovative beers. I think I might come here again in the future to see what they’re brewing….

  • London – Southwark (Borough of) – Anspach & Hobday

    London – Southwark (Borough of) – Anspach & Hobday

    Someone mentioned the Bermondsey Beer Mile to me last year, but most of the premises along it were shut last year when I visited, so the options were limited. Things have improved somewhat since then and there’s a good choice of venues open, although the downside is that they’re often small and Covid-19 has restricted the number of customers who can visit.

    This is the rather lovely taproom of Anspach & Hobday and they have a couple of other venues in London, including a new taproom in Croydon. The staff member at the door was friendly and helpful, telling me that they had a table for six available that wasn’t needed for nearly an hour until the next reservation, and I could have that. This pleased me. This isn’t a large location though, it has just a handful of tables inside and a small number outside, so I was rather fortunate.

    The beer fridges and the bar area, although table service was offered. It’s card only here, which I like, I agree with them that it’s the way forwards. The brewery produce quite a range of beer styles, and although it wasn’t available when I visited, I’d like to try their Sea Salt & Chilli Stout at some point.

    The beer list, including some of their own beers and some guests. Nicely balanced selection, including numerous different beer styles.

    The beers I went for, which are the Pacific Ale from Stone & Wood on the left and the porter from Anspach & Hobday themselves on the right. The former was refreshing, but not overly exciting in terms of the flavours. The porter was rich with its chocolate and coffee flavours, and it tasted fresh and was at the appropriate just slightly chilled temperature. Nice.

    The environment was clean and comfortable, I liked this taproom. Friendly staff, relaxed vibe and all really rather lovely.

  • London – Merton (Borough of) – Site of Wimbledon’s Plough Lane Stadium

    London – Merton (Borough of) – Site of Wimbledon’s Plough Lane Stadium

    Clicking on the above dual map makes it a more viewable size and it shows where Wimbledon’s football ground stood until relatively recently. It’s where the cursor is on the map and not the Plough Lane Stadium, which is where the club is now. The football team became quite notorious in the 1980s when they played at the original Plough Lane site, but the ground proved difficult to upgrade to meet new safety requirements of the time.

    This is what the football stadium looks like now. The old stadium, which was used by the football for first team matches between September 1912 and May 1991, was finally demolished in 2002. Safeway had wanted to build a supermarket on it, but the council faffed about a bit, so the project got delayed and then cancelled. A new more recent project has seen a large housing development built on the site of the former stadium.

    To mark the site of the former ground, this sculpture was placed on the corner of Plough Lane and Durnsford Road in 2010.

    The club’s crest is visible on the back of the sculpture, which was designed by Sam Burford. I’m not sure that I really understand what the whole sculpture is all about, but it’s useful that the site of the former stadium is marked.

  • London – Wandsworth (Borough of) – By The Horns Brewery Tap

    London – Wandsworth (Borough of) – By The Horns Brewery Tap

    I’m slowly, but very surely, working my way around London’s breweries and this one in between Tooting and Wimbledon is also listed in the Good Beer Guide (which I’m also working my way around). So, yesterday I made a booking on-line for today, and then was on course to arrive half an hour early so went to sit in a nearby graveyard to wait. Incidentally, I liked that it let me make a booking for one person, I inwardly tut when I see somewhere only allows bookings for two or more people.

    There was a friendly welcome from the staff member, who explained the ordering process which was done on-line using a QR code. It clearly wasn’t entirely packed with customers as the staff member knew my name when I said I had a reservation, but I’m always happy that I’m in the right place. The ordering system was all efficient and easy to use, and the environment was comfortable. It’s not the largest indoors space, but there are several tables and the outdoor area gives them more flexibility on numbers.

    I was given the chance to move my reservation outside into the hot external seating area, like everyone else seemed to be doing during my visit, but I was quite content inside in the cold. I’ve had enough of London’s heatwave…. I’d actually had enough of the heatwave yesterday about ten minutes after it started, but I digress…. The cricket was also showing on the television and the staff member mentioned I could turn the volume up if I wanted. I didn’t, but I liked the engagement and I also liked the ready supply of power points dotted around.

    There’s an in-house pizza oven and the taproom surroundings are industrial and what I consider to be on-trend and exciting.

    The reasonably priced pizza menu is visible in the above photo (click the image to enlarge it).

    The brewery’s web-site seemed to focus on IPAs, but I noticed they had two darker options available and so I went for half a pint of each. The Lambeth Walk is a porter made by the brewery and it had a pleasant taste with an aftertaste of chocolate and coffee, although it wasn’t quite as rich a flavour as I had expected. A nice beer though and it tasted well-kept (it should since they made it here so it’s hardly gone far) and was at the appropriate temperature. I don’t like porters that are served at some point near freezing, although I might have forgiven that today given the heat. Anyway, it was all perfectly served.

    I wasn’t quite sure what to make of the Deep Funk which is also made here, it’s what they call a farmhouse stout (is that a thing?) and it’s a rye kettle soured stout mixed with a graf, which is effectively a beer cider (I had to Google that). I wasn’t sure whether I was ordering an artisan craft product or an expensive snakebite, but either way, I liked it. A complex taste, or as much as beer and cider mixed together can be, and there were some interesting flavours going on. The mixture of sourness and sharpness worked for me, although I’m struggling to put that effectively into words. It’s not hugely well rated in reviews, but it’s something different and I like trying new concepts.

    Anyway, I liked this brewery and the taproom set-up, it was a relaxed environment and the staff were friendly and everything was organised. There’s usually a wider beer range I understand, but I was entirely satisfied with what they had. I’ve mentioned already that the whole look is quite on-trend, but I don’t think they’ve tried to create that deliberately, it’s just a by-product of friends interested in making craft beer. All really rather lovely.

  • Accor Hotel at Heathrow – A Bit Shut

    Accor Hotel at Heathrow – A Bit Shut

    I arrived with great excitement to my Accor hotel near Heathrow (I’m not going anywhere from the airport, it was just where I was staying) and had the slightly annoying situation that it was shut. I said to myself that this definitely wasn’t ideal. A staff member on site helpfully told me that I’d come to the right hotel, but that it had been shut for five months. They added that this was the problem with booking with third party sites, and I’d need to contact them to deal with the issue.

    Unfortunately, I hadn’t used a third party site, I’d booked directly with Accor. So I phoned them and was delighted when a real life person answered the Platinum/Diamond support line (I was pleased my call got routed there, it made me feel important….). They were really quite friendly and they apologised several times, realising that the booking was valid for a shut hotel (if there’s such a thing as a valid booking for a shut hotel). The first stage of their resolution was to set up a complaint which they immediately upgraded to Stage 2. I don’t know what that means, but it sounded exciting. The second stage of their resolution was to rebook me in a nearby Novotel hotel as I didn’t fancy sleeping at the airport (I didn’t intend to recreate the film Terminal) and Heathrow never liked that at the best of times, so I imagine it’s impossible now. That worked out (the rebooking, not the sleeping at Heathrow), although they couldn’t get through to the hotel to guarantee the booking, but they booked it internally anyway.

    The resolution team is meant to be getting in touch with me over the next couple of days, although I like the hotel that I’ve been moved to. They did tell me to keep my receipts and get a taxi there, but I couldn’t be going through all that stress so I just walked the thirty minutes to the new hotel. It was a lovely walk near the Bath Road with the sun setting. Not the three night stay that I had expected, but I won’t complain at three nights at the Novotel.

    I would be annoyed, but I like Accor and to be honest, I quite like the drama and excitement….. The two staff members on the phone actually sounded interested in helping, so that was all positive. Although I’ve now got to work out where to get the 222 bus to get to the Piccadilly line….. I could get the Hotel Hoppa bus and charge Accor, but I hate that service and I don’t fancy faffing about sending receipts. Anyway, that’s another adventure I’ve gotten myself into.

  • London – City of London – The Pelt Trader

    London – City of London – The Pelt Trader

    This bar is listed in the Good Beer Guide and I’m not sure how I’ve missed it in the past, given that it sells craft beer and pizzas. It’s located under a railway arch at Cannon Street railway street and it opened here in 2013. I was fortunate with my timing, as I hadn’t realised just how small this venue is. I asked if there was space for me and the helpful team member said that they were giving up with a table booking for six people that hadn’t bothered to turn up or let them know. That table had been left empty for half an hour, a really unhelpful thing for such a small venue. Anyway, the team member asked if I was happy with that table, which I most certainly was.

    There’s a canoe hanging from the ceiling which all adds some atmosphere to the proceedings I suppose. Ordering could be done via a web-site, but it was just as easy to order from the staff member. There were beers from a number of decent breweries, with a balance of different beer types which met my approval.

    The beer list is chalked up on the back bar, but it was somewhat easier to read it using the bar’s on-line menu system. This is one advantage that has come out of the blasted pandemic, pubs have been forced to be more innovative in their ordering systems. The food could also be ordered on-line, including 12 and 18 inch pizzas, not unreasonably charged at around £12 and £18 each. My knowledge of maths is sufficiently good enough to know that this makes the larger pizza considerably better value for money. Anyway, I digress.

    The branding on the glass isn’t relevant to the drink that I ordered, with this one being Orange Crush from Brick Brewery and I also went for the Tropical Deluxe from Howling Hops. Both very agreeable beers, well kept and those are both excellent breweries.

    I was a little unsure what to expect from this bar and I was entirely pleased with its offering, which remains on-trend although was perhaps ahead of its time when it opened. Friendly service, comfortable environment and a quirky feeling all bode well, especially with that mix of decent craft beer and pizza. Nice.

  • London – Tower Hamlets (Borough of) – Kings Stores Pub

    London – Tower Hamlets (Borough of) – Kings Stores Pub

    I’m working my way carefully around the Good Beer Guide pubs of London, with the Kings Stores being operated by the Metropolitan Pub Company, which is part of Greene King. They note that “every single one of our 71 pubs in and around London is unique and each of them is individually run by its manager”, which adds some confidence to arrangements, as Greene King aren’t always the finest purveyors of beers in their pubs.

    The welcome was prompt and friendly, with the pub feeling all clean and organised. The beer choice was just about satisfactory, although to be fair, better than most Greene King pubs. There was Greene King IPA, Amagansett from Bedlam Brewery and Swift from Truman’s Brewery, so a not particularly balanced selection and nothing of any real note for a pub listed in the Good Beer Guide. I limited myself to a half pint of Swift, which was well kept and moderately interesting, but I wouldn’t have much wanted much more of it.

    The pub seems to be well reviewed for food and it looks a reliable option for that, and the pubs has a multitude of wines available. The observant might notice in the above photo that sausage rolls and Scotch Eggs are being sold for £5, with other food prices all being towards the higher end of the range. The pub shows sports as well as trying to appeal to a dining clientele, which seems an interesting mix, and the whole arrangement felt a bit formulaic to me.

    Anyway, the pub was welcoming and that’s important, with the service being efficient and warm. It’s nearby to London Liverpool Street railway station and I can think of worse places to wait for a train than this pub.

  • London – Westminster (Borough of) – Oxford Street – Hard Rock Cafe

    London – Westminster (Borough of) – Oxford Street – Hard Rock Cafe

    We won’t go back into my annoyance with The Fork (what I consider to be the TripAdvisor’s badly run restaurant booking service, but others may have different views, including probably TripAdvisor), but they had the Hard Rock Cafe in Oxford Street on a 50% off food offer. They were also promising 1,000 Yums (worth £20) for a booking made under an offer to get people back eating in restaurants, although I shall see in due course whether this gets paid out. That meant I made an exception and made a booking via The Fork, which will likely give me something else to complain about next week.

    Anyway, the restaurant wasn’t packed. This is a large and expensive set-up on Oxford Street, right next to Marble Arch underground station, which also consists of a Hard Rock hotel. The whole complex opened in 2019, perhaps not the best timing with what was to happen next. The management are left with a huge restaurant that was designed to make money by having a large turnover, but they’re trying to fill it as best as they can.

    I entered and there were no staff immediately visible, so I meandered to near the bar area so that I could stand there and look awkward. Fortunately, someone looking a bit important noticed me and found a member of staff to welcome me, which was all done efficiently. They didn’t seem overly interested that I had a reservation, which is understandable since they have about 100 tables available. I needed them to be interested though for the purposes of The Fork deal, and they seemed all content when I mentioned it.

    When I say that it wasn’t packed, there were about two customers. They offered to seat me at the bar, but I was quite content with one of the tables and the staff member didn’t seem overly annoyed at my decision. I can’t be doing all that social at lunchtime, I’m not in America at the moment. Although dreaming of it….. Anyway, I digress.

    This is the view I had from my table, which I thought was entirely satisfactory and is nicer than most dining options that I frequent. The service was as would be expected from Hard Rock, which was engaging, personable, enthusiastic and all of those things. It was all very timely, but there were as many staff members as guests, so this probably wasn’t entirely difficult to achieve.

    I decided to go for the chicken fajitas, which were about £8.50 after the discount and I considered that to be very reasonable, especially given the decadent and empty surroundings. The food was decent, the chicken was moist and tender with some depth of flavour to it. The sour cream seemed to have been served using an ice cream scoop and I was pleased that the cheese had been kept away from any hot items (I like my cheese cold as I’m awkward). Restaurants never seem to provide enough wrap things (the meal comes with four) for the amount of food and I notice one person in a review said they asked for one more wrap and got charged £4.99. And the amount of guacamole was generous, which pleased me.

    I like “the damage” bill holder, although I wonder how that goes down for those who are moderately shocked by the size of their bill. My bill came to £15.28 by the time that the unlimited sodas and service charge was added on. I do try and visit Hard Rock Cafes when in a city, so this wasn’t an unreasonable price given the quality of the experience.

    My knowledge of music memorabilia is very limited, but I do like having a little look at what each Hard Rock in the chain has acquired for their walls.

    All told, I thought that this was a professionally run restaurant and I can imagine it’ll be very popular with tourists when some form of normality returns to London. Fortunately, the quietness of London at the moment means that I got what I considered a cheap meal and I’ll be very pleased if The Fork actually pay the £20 out like they’re supposed to, as I’ll probably come back here to spend it. If that all works out, this was a rather keenly priced meal.

  • London – City of London – First London Coffee House

    London – City of London – First London Coffee House

    From where it all began for coffee shops in London, what is now the Jamaica Wine House on St  Michael’s Alley in the Cornhill area. This first coffee house was opened in 1652 by Pasqua Rosée who had connections with the Turkish and Greek communities. He built himself a little shop, although I can imagine that it wasn’t exactly Pret (it was probably more akin to something that I’d create with a few bits of wood and a civil engineer friend to do some sawing and construction), and this new drink of coffee seemed to catch on. He put a sign up out the front with his own image on it, similar to what Tim Martin did with his now closed pub on Whitehall. He had some important customers (Rosée I mean, not Tim Martin), not least Samuel Pepys who wrote about his visit in 1660.

    It had quite a nice little location by St. Michael’s Cornhill Church, but this whole area was badly affected (by badly affected, I mean it burned down) by the 1666 Great Fire of London. The church is still in situ, although it was heavily rebuilt following the Great Fire, with the shop also being rebuilt on pretty much the same site it had been standing on. Rosée wasn’t a freeman of the city and I can imagine the problems that this caused him, so apparently there was some partnership arrangement created to get around this problem to ensure that he could trade. No-one is entirely sure what the premises were called, but it’s thought that for a while they were known as the Turk’s Head. Rosée did well from his enterprise, but he decided to go an innovate in Paris instead, opening up that city’s first coffee shop in 1672.

    The building on the site today is the Jamaica Wine House, a Victorian building which was completed in 1869. The pub might have switched from coffee to beer and then more to wine (next step craft beer…..), but there’s still a nineteenth century cooker in place from where the coffee beans were roasted.

    I still like how exotic this coffee shop must have been when it opened, probably as exciting as an innovative craft beer bar being announced. It was a place to be seen and also to discuss financial arrangements, which is how the large insurance, banks and financial institutions evolved. They were good places for traders to meet to discuss their purchase and sales, usually also quite energetic (loud) environments. Usually there was no alcohol served in these coffee shops in the early days and women were excluded from attending such decadent places.

    I can only imagine the sort of gossip that was discussed at this coffee shop from 1652, but I think that I’d like to have listened to it. King Charles I had been executed just three years before the coffee shop opened, so political talk would have been inevitable, and I’m sure care was taken to avoid upsetting the wrong people. Coffee shops and pubs later often welcomed one political group over another, which would be an interesting set-up for Pret, they could have shops for Starmer supporters and maybe the odd one or two for supporters of Grant Shapps or something. Anyway, I digress.

  • London – Hackney (Borough of) – Shoreditch – Goose Island

    London – Hackney (Borough of) – Shoreditch – Goose Island

    I’m not going to write up anything more about my visit to Goose Island today, as nothing has changed, it’s still brilliant. I still can’t name another location I’ve been where the bar staff are as knowledgeable, and passionate, about beer. And thanks to the manager today for remembering my blog posts when I mentioned my name (I’d add that I made a reservation to get a table so needed to say my name, I didn’t walk in and announce my name and expect rose petals to be thrown on the floor). More about Goose Island coming up soon, as I’ve convinced Liam to come with me to enjoy the whole experience of the bar and I hope the staff can deal with that beer education challenge  🙂

    What I did want to write about though, mostly to remind myself, was this most decadent beer. This is the 14.6% Bourbon County Brand Stout (2020) and the manager said they had to have this on for their re-opening. It is sublime and manages to hide its strength so that it doesn’t taste like sump oil, as my friend Steve has suggested about some of what I call my decadent stouts. There’s a complexity to the flavours, both with the mouthfeel and the aftertaste. There’s vanilla, caramel, bourbon, toffee, biscuit (well, I think there’s biscuit and I don’t think anyone else does) and chocolate, and it remains beautifully smooth. I don’t know how a brewery can make a beer of this strength this smooth and easy to drink.

    I managed to sip my way through this without ever getting bored of it, it’s liquid beauty and I think it might be the best beer that I’ve ever had. It has a staggeringly good rating of 4.47 on Untappd, from just under 40,000 different reviews. I’m looking forwards to the 2021 version which comes out I think towards the end of the year, which will again be aged in bourbon whiskey barrels. I haven’t got excited about the release of a beer before, so this is a first.