Well, my peace and quiet will now be interrupted as the rest of the Hike Norfolk walkers (and drinkers) have arrived. What could possibly go wrong…..
Category: Ennis
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Ireland – Ennis – Milano
I learn something new every day, although most days what I learn isn’t particularly useful or relevant to anyone. Anyway, I had never heard of the chain Milano, but it’s owned by Pizza Express, which is evident by the nearly otherwise identical branding. I don’t quite understand why they have a different name, it’s something to do with the trademark not being available in some countries.
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Ireland – Ennis – Books About the Town of Ennis
Since I had a little while in the library, I had some time to quickly read through a few of the books in the local history section.
The War in Clare by Michael Brennan
The story of the First World War in Ireland is of course very different to that of the First World War in Britain, as there was the additional element of the fight for Irish independence. This book is the story of Michael Brennan’s war, in memoirs which he completed in the 1930s. He writes about how he was involved in the Easter Rising and how he then spent the next few years in and out of prison.
Brennan was interned for some of the war and found himself for a period at Reading prison, in what was formerly the women’s prison. He found himself here amongst people of primarily German and Austrian nationalities, but anyone who was considered a threat to the nation was in danger of being imprisoned.
He also writes that “I have always emphasised to volunteers that armed action was only one arm in our fight for independence. I maintained that good propaganda was the other arm and the most important part of this was our own conduct. It was easy to behave well to our friends, but I argued that our critics and political opponents might become friends if we impressed them by our standards of conduct”.
Brennan went on to become the Irish Defence Forces Chief of Staff between 1931 and 1940 and died at the age of 90 in 1986. The book at Ennis Library also has a personal connection to Brennan since he has signed it inside the front cover.
Ennis in the 18th Century by Brian o Dalaigh:
This small book has an introduction to the history of the town, explaining that it has its origins in the early thirteenth century when the O’Briens, the Kings of North Munster, moved their principal stronghold to the area. The town didn’t though grow much in size and by the beginning of the eighteenth century it was a modest unwalled town which was smaller than Galway and Limerick.
It was only in the second half of the eighteenth century that the town started to really grow in size, and the book notes that the jurors of the corporation complained that “the carriages and chairs were daily in danger of being overturned by the vast number of horses, baskets and other lumber that on market days take up the whole street”.
The infrastructure also struggled and most of the roads to and from Ennis were in a poor state of repair, with the Clare grand jury who was responsible for them simply not having enough money to fix them. So, in 1734 a Road Act was introduced to establish a series of toll roads, something which proved to be of benefit to Ennis as at least people could get there.
The book also gives some population figures for Ennis in the eighteenth century, starting at 886 in 1700, going to 1,367 in 1720, to 2,108 in 1740, to 3,251 in 1760, to 4,906 in 1780 and to 7,567 in 1800. Although many of the urban improvements didn’t even start until the nineteenth century, and they were hardly completed then, the book notes that it was during the eighteenth century that “the essential pattern of urban life had been established”.
Cathedral of St. Peter and St. Peter by John Bradley
This large colourful book was published in 2015 and is generous in terms of the number of photographs inside of it. What is now Ennis Cathedral was conceived as a church in the 1830s, although it wasn’t opened and blessed until 1843. There were renovations in 1894 and in 1973, and it eventually gained the status of a cathedral in 1990. A more recent substantial project was the restoration of the spire in 2004, which cost a not insignificant €1.6 million.
The level of information is deep, without making the book unreadable. Although I’m still wondering why the beautiful railings which were added around the church in 1876 were ripped out in 1973 to be used instead in the garden of a private house in Killoo, Clarecastle. I also like how the cathedral clock became known as the ‘four faced liar’ as every one of the four faces told a different time.
Ennis at Work in the 19th Century by Lucille Ellis
This book is the story of how the town of Ennis grew during the nineteenth century, although it has been written from the perspective of certain occupations and families from the period. As a result the text feels rather random in places, although it’s an interesting look at some of the important families in the town.
The author quotes a description written in the 1770s by John Howard of the town’s hospital, which was the County Infirmary on Mill Road, who wrote:
“The County Infirmary at Ennis, built around fifteen years ago, has two wards on the first floor, one for each sex. The floors and walls were very dirty. None of the patients had sheets, two excepted, who said they brought in all their bedding; the others lay on a little hay or straw, and had hardly any blankets to cover them. No fuel”.
Sounds a marvellous model of medical care…… Anyway, the book does seem a bit loose in its construction, but there are a few interesting photos of buildings in the late nineteenth century.
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Ireland – Ennis – Brogan’s
Brogan’s, a pub located on O’Connell Street in Ennis, and it’s a sizeable family run concern..
The pub’s ‘James Joyce Award for Being an Authentic Irish Pub’ which is on the exterior wall.
A well stocked back bar in the pub, which was spotlessly clean throughout. It was also busy on the Friday lunchtime that I visited, with a few of us at the bar drinking and most tables filled with diners.
I’d already had lunch of a cake and coffee elsewhere, so I decided to have a pint of Murphy’s as a dessert. The staff in the pub were all friendly and helpful, and it was a comfortable environment, indeed, perhaps too comfortable….
The sink in the male toilet, quite a smart little effort.
All in all, a rather lovely pub and it’s nearly everything that I’d expect an Irish pub to be. It seems that it has a reputation for singers and performers who do their thing on most evenings of the week, but lunch-time was a more peaceful time of the day in that regard.
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Ireland – Ennis – De Valera Public Library
The town’s public library was on my route back to the hotel, so I decided it would be a marvellous idea to pop inside. The public library is on the site of a former Church of Ireland Hall from 1890, which is behind a Presbyterian Church dating from 1856. The church building is today used as an exhibition gallery, and unfortunately not used by the library.
The front of the former church.
The entrance tunnel into the library, running alongside the former church.
Some unique sculptures in the gardens of the library.
A nicely laid out library with a surprisingly large collection of books on British politics, actually larger and better curated than Norwich Library. Anyway, there was probably an excellent range of local history books for me to have a look at as well, but the area was being used by a poetry club, so I didn’t want to intrude on their arrangements. Even though the poetry club had also taken over most of the tables in the library as well, but at least it gets people into the building.
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Ireland – Ennis – Clare Museum
The impressive Clare Museum in Ennis, located in the former Sisters of Mercy convent. I was ultimately quite impressed by this free museum, although disappointed that nothing of the original building appears to have survived internally and there was little information inside the museum about the former convent either.
This is a human pelvis which has an embedded tip from a projectile. Since there is no evidence of healing around the bone, that means that the injury must have caused the death of the individual.
Not a very good photo, but this well was used by the Sisters of Mercy and it was only discovered when the building was being converted into a museum. I hope that it was discovered in a way which didn’t involve someone falling into it.
The panel says that this is a carved panel from a Spanish Armada ship, dating to 1588, but it appears to be in exceptionally good condition for that age.
A large piece of bog butter, which is butter which was buried to try and stop it from going off. Apparently this was a practice which took place in Ireland and the UK, although the last time I saw something like this was in Dublin, so perhaps it was more common in Ireland. There are marks on the exterior which suggests that it was stored in a wickerwork container and it was found at the appropriately named Boghill.
This stone animal head dates to around the twelfth century and comes from St. Brigid’s Church.
This is a Sheela-na-gig and there was an interesting article on BBC News last week about these and it’s something that I’d never previously heard of. This one was found near Ballyportry Castle and dates to the late fifteenth century.
The Bell of the Burren, a thirteenth century bell from the Cistercian Abbey of Corcomroe, which was in use until 1860.
A little bit of political history, this is a letter written in 1828 by Daniel O’Connell to Andrew Stackpoole. O’Connell was asking for Stackpoole’s support in the by-election in the Parliamentary constituency of Clare, which was a contest that he was to win.
And some more political history, which is always a delight. This is the registration form from the Old Ground Hotel in Ennis which was filled in by Constance Markievicz. Markievicz was the first female MP when she was elected to the House of Commons in 1918, but as a Sinn Fein representative she decided not to take her seat. She marked her occupation on this registration form as “a rebel”. I can imagine that she was quite a forthright politician….
I like political history, but railway history also intrigues me, and this is a ceremonial spade and barrow made of Irish oak and silver. It was used by Charles Stewart Parnell in January 1885 to cut the first sod of turf for the West Clare Railway. The railway was in operation between 1887 and 1961, when unfortunately it was closed down. Some of the line has since been re-opened to be used as a heritage rail service.
I don’t pay any attention to football today, but I do remember hearing the score of the 1986 FA Cup final between Everton and Liverpool. This shirt was worn in that match by Kevin Sheedy, the Irish international football player.
A Guinness World Records certificate given to James Devine for the fastest rate of tap dancing, which is apparently 38 taps per second. I have no conception how anyone can tap dance that quickly, although the record has now been beaten and is 1,163 taps during the period of one minute.
Given that there is no admission charge it’s not surprise so see that the reviews of the museum are nearly entirely positive. However, there is one review which is negative about the contents….
“I am truly shocked at the fact that this collection of articles and displays can be classed as a museum – it is an embarrassment – there is no logical order – the displays are inadequate – the information sparce and badly written – a sorry testimont to a county with a wealth of history”.
Hmmmmm.
Overall, I thought that this was a charming museum which had a modern feel to it and a wide range of different exhibits and themes. The museum could easily justify a small admission charge given what there is to see, but it’s always positive to see that a community is able to offer a free museum to local people and visitors.
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Ireland – Ennis – Centurial Sphere 1916 Memorial
Located next to the 1966 memorial which marked the fiftieth anniversary of the Easter 1916 uprising is this artwork which marks the one hundredth anniversary.
The sculpture is known as the Centurial Sphere and was commissioned by Clare County Council. It was designed by Paddy Murray and is made of galvanised steel. The text on the sphere is from songs about County Clare and its cultural heritage.
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Ireland – Ennis – Pat McHugh
I took this photo in case this was a local figure of historic interest, but it’s more recent and it’s the very kind effort of a friend of Pat McHugh, a local busker who died a few years ago. The friend was Michael McTigue, an Irish sculptor and it’s a piece of black granite set on limestone. It’s a lovely gesture to make to someone who has died and McTigue carved it whilst he was moving along a parade in Ennis on St. Patrick’s Day.





































