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  • Zagreb – Antun Gustav Matos Statue

    Antun Gustav Matoš was a poet and writer who has become one of the most important literary figures in Croatian history. He lived in Zagreb for some of his childhood but had to be careful on his later return to the city as he ran off in 1894 to avoid conscription into the army.

    All was forgiven with regards to his desertion by 1908 and so he returned to Zagreb. It wasn’t though a long return as he died in 1914 from throat cancer, at the age of just 41.

    The statue in memory of the poet was designed by Ivan Kožarić and although I thought it seemed quite modern and contemporary, it actually dates back to 1978. It’s located on the Strossmayer Promenade, which has views over the city centre.

  • Zagreb – Do Worry

    Either this is some local cultural thing that I’m not aware of, or something has been lost in translation here….

  • Zagreb – A Story of a Rail Crossing

    I needed to cross these railway tracks, but as I approached the barriers came down. This is a perfectly normal occurrence with trains and I thought that I’d stand there until they went back up again, as this is usually how these things work.

    However, two people walking near to me decided to lift the barrier up a little and carry on their walk across the tracks. I assumed that they were locals and knew what they were doing, so I decided to ignore them and stay waiting where I was. Then two more people came along, although there was no sight of a train, and they did the same. Another small group came along and they also offered to hold the barrier for me. Friendly, but I still didn’t want to get run over by a train.

    After another eight people had crossed, I was getting irritated at this situation. Being British and obeying rules, I decided that this was most inconvenient. And then, as can be seen in the above photo, a bloody pushchair is pushed across. By this time the barriers have been down for around five minutes and there’s a total absence of trains.

    At this stage I decided I was just going to have to wait, as stepping onto railway tracks with a barrier that’s down just doesn’t seem sensible. Then I hear a train is coming, which pleases me greatly as I start to think that the barrier might go up. I’ve probably been here now for around eight minutes, although I didn’t time it exactly as I didn’t know I was spending the entire afternoon here.

    Anyway, the train above comes along and then screeches to a halt. And two other people cross in front of the train as it’s stopped. This set-up that a train has to stop to let pedestrians across seems bloody ridiculous to me. This is all made more bizarre as that barrier isn’t easy to lift up, so everyone going through is either doing some kind of limbo move to get under it, or they’re struggling to lift it up.

    At this point I’m now quite grumpy about the situation. I decide that I’m not going to walk in front of the train, so I pretend that I don’t want to cross. There’s a signal box to the right of the crossing and the man there was waving at people, although I wasn’t clear whether he was waving them across or waving at them that they might die.

    After around another two minutes the train goes and the barriers go up. And I then get the above photo, but I was conscious that a bloody train was likely to come flying along just at this point.

    When I got back to the hotel I recounted this story to someone who pretended to look interested. His reply was “we’re Slavs, we don’t do what we’re told” and he added “it’s the Germans and the Poles who do what they’re told, they would wait all day if that barrier didn’t move”. I’m sure there’s some truth to this, although personally I’d add that as a Brit, I’d have probably stayed there all day as well….

  • Zagreb – Views Over the City

    There are some areas across Zagreb which give some excellent views over the city centre. The photos below were taken from the Kaptol area of Zagreb.

  • Zagreb – Étien’s Whale

    Going along with the artwork of the turtle created by the French artist Étien, he created this enormous image of a whale on the side of a disused building. There is a sweet spot of where to stand to look at the whale where it seems entirely in perspective, and this does make it look even more realistic. This grand mural, which was painted in 2015, has won numerous awards over the years.

  • Zagreb – Étien’s Turtle

    A very clever piece of street art by the French artist Étien.

    The turtle looks rather different from another angle.

  • Oradea – Eva Heyman Memorial

    Eva Heyman is one of the key iconic people from the tragedy that unfolded for the Jews in Oradea during the Second World War. Heyman was born on 13 February 1931 and she kept a diary during the Nazi occupation of the area, detailing how Jews were treated.

    Eva was sent to Auschwitz on 2 June 1944 and accounts suggest that she remained strong and didn’t lose her willpower. Unfortunately she was in pain from her wounds and she was found by Mengele, who ensured that she was killed. She died in the gas chambers of Auschwitz on 17 October 1944.

    Her mother wrote:

    “A good-hearted female doctor was trying to hide my child, but Mengele found her without effort. Eva’s feet were full of sore wounds. ‘Now look at you’, Mengele shouted, ‘you frog, your feet are foul, reeking with pus! Up with you on the truck!’ He transported his human material to the crematorium on yellow-coloured trucks. Eyewitnesses told me that he himself had pushed her on to the truck.”

    Eva’s last diary entry was:

    “It has to be terrible in the wagon, and now no one says that we are going, they all say they deport us. A gendarme patrols in front of our house, yesterday was in the Rhedely Gardens, because from here they start the trains with the Jews, not from the station, so that they do not see the town says Grandpa. There were about 80 people in a wagon and so many people gave them a single bucket of water, and it is even more terrible that they have cracked the wagons.

    The gendarme said he could not understand the Jews, they did not even cry to the children, they all moved like sleepwalkers, they did not even live, they jumped into hard cars without a word. Although I, My Little Diary, do not want to die, I want to live, even if only the whole sector I can stay here, I would wait for the end of the war in a cellar, or in the attic or in any hole, My little Diary, I would also kiss the gendarme who looked crucified and took our flour, only to kill me, only to let me live. “

    The diary was recovered after the end of the Second World War and was published in 1948.

  • Oradea – KFC

    In between my visiting other more locally run restaurants in Oradea, I felt the need to visit to KFC as well. I didn’t want to go for myself of course, but just so that I could tell Dylan and Leon about it in case they asked.

    In case anyone is interested, which I admit is highly unlikely, the chicken strips in Romania are similar to others KFC outlets in eastern Europe, thinner and tastier. The staff member was very friendly, and with his Romanian and my English we struggled through. Primarily because the staff member had a greater knowledge of English than I had of Romanian if I’m being fair….

  • Oradea – Rhédey Mausoleum

    This mausoleum is located within the grounds of Oradea Zoo and for a while it was used to keep the animals in, which isn’t perhaps ideal in terms of historic integrity and respect for the dead.

    Before the site was used as a zoo, it was a public garden and the mausoleum was constructed in 1804. The site fell into disrepair at a couple of times, being vandalised in 1830 (just before the tomb was completed and brought into use, primarily as the person to be buried there wasn’t dead yet) and in 1912 the mausoleum was broken into with items stolen and the bones scattered.

    After a period of the zoo’s collection of deer using the mausoleum as their winter quarters, it was decided that the site should be cleaned up and treated more respectfully. It was repaired in 2012 and is now not used by any of the zoo’s animals…..

    The tomb is of Rhédey Lajos, who stated in his will that he wanted to be laid to rest in Oradea. Oradea was formerly part of Hungary and Lajos was a nobleman and politician from the country who lived between 1761 and 1831.

    There’s an information board outside the mausoleum, but unfortunately the information on it is only in Romanian and Hungarian.

  • Oradea – Oradea Zoo

    Oradea Zoo isn’t particularly large in size, but it’s clean and well presented. There were only three people, including me, at the zoo when I visited in October 2017, so it wasn’t exactly what one might call busy. The zoo feels dated in terms of the amount of space given to animals, but it is located within the city centre and there isn’t any obvious way that they could expand their footprint. Perhaps in time an entirely new zoo will be constructed outside of the city centre, although I’m not sure that the visitor numbers would justify such a project.

    There’s plenty of information in English around the site and it’s all easy to navigate. It’s possible to buy some food, which varies by species, to feed the animals with, although I’m not sure that this is the best of ideas. Zoo animals should really in my non zoological opinion by fed by their keepers, so they know what they’re being fed and when.

    Anyway, below are some photos of my visit: