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Inside Skopje Fortress is an unfinished structure which now sits there as a rather awkward arrangement of stones, metal and unresolved civic ambition. It was intended to become a church-shaped museum, built over the remains of a medieval church found during archaeological work at the Kale, another name for the fortress. In theory and when things aren’t sub-optimal, this would have interpreted the Christian history of the site, but in practice, it became another reminder that in the Balkans, archaeology is rarely allowed the quiet life of being about old stones. The fortress has layers of Roman, Byzantine, medieval, Ottoman and modern history, which is fascinating for visitors but deeply inconvenient for anyone hoping to produce one neat national story without several other groups objecting.

The project became highly controversial in 2011, with Albanian political groups and community representatives arguing that the building looked too much like a new church and gave too much prominence to one version of the fortress’s past. Some also pointed to Ottoman and Islamic layers of the site, including the remains of a mosque, and argued that these were not being treated with the same enthusiasm. Macedonian supporters saw the work as a legitimate recognition of the medieval Christian remains. The dispute escalated into protests and clashes at the fortress in February 2011, with several people injured, after which the project was halted. It wasn’t quite what the archaeologists had hoped for, they’d found thousands of artefacts over a ten year archaeological study and it seems that they were quite keen for the story of this site to be told.

So, this is the result, an abandoned stone structure which is entirely out of keeping with the area around it. It might now be best to demolish it as it’s damaged anyway, scarring the landscape. It’s not for me to get involved in religious disputes, but this isn’t really the ideal way to show off an historic monument. Although, it is a reminder of history insomuch this land has been fought over on many occasions in the past.

This fortress is complex and there’s limited information about its history either at the site or online, but it’s a large and intriguing location. This is a former entrance way that looks like it has been out of commission for some time, but even relatively recently it was in use. It was the main entrance to the fortress before boulders were placed across it and entrance was forbidden to the public for several years. There’s a lot of controversy about this site which I’ll witter on about in future posts, but at least now there is some access possible.

The other side of the gate and hopefully in the future this can be opened up again. There’s currently one way into the fortress, which is through an odd looking arrangement at one side of the fortress which all looks a bit abandoned.

This is the statue of Metodija Andonov-Čento in the heart of Macedonia Square, so although I hadn’t heard of him, it was evident that he was a nationally important figure. This statue was installed here in 2010 and he was awarded the “Order of the Republic of Macedonia” which sounds rather grand. This all means that because I saw a statue in Skopje, I now want to know all about him. I’d like to suggest that’s because travel broadens the mind, but it’s really because I get very distracted down rabbit holes.

Metodija Andonov-Čento (1902–1957) came from Prilep (now the fourth largest city in Macedonia) and he first emerged politically in the interwar period, when Vardar Macedonia was part of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia. He became associated with demands for Macedonian rights, including the use of the Macedonian language, and was imprisoned more than once before the Second World War for activity the authorities regarded as separatist. He was seen as a sub-optimal figure, they didn’t want this nationalism interfering with their wider country which was already a balancing act of different people. In short, the state was already finding him inconvenient and his political career was going to be interesting to say the least.

During the Second World War he refused to collaborate with the Bulgarian occupation authorities and became involved with the Macedonian Partisan movement. His role was largely political rather than military, which is perhaps just as well, as every revolution needs someone who can think beyond the immediate business of running around with rifles and looking purposeful. This is really the sort of thing that I would become involved with, a desk job involving gossip, rather than doing any of the dangerous fighting bit. He duly became part of the wider anti-fascist structures that were shaping the future Yugoslavia, while continuing to press for a stronger Macedonian national position.

His most important moment came in 1944, when he became the first president of the presidium of ASNOM, the Anti-Fascist Assembly for the National Liberation of Macedonia. ASNOM helped establish Macedonia as a republic within the new federal Yugoslavia, making Čento a central figure in modern Macedonian statehood. In normal circumstances this would have been the point at which history rewarded him with a commemorative stamp, a few civic dinners and the right to look solemn in official photographs, but the Balkans rarely arrange things that neatly.

Čento soon once again came into conflict with the Yugoslav communist authorities, particularly over the question of Macedonian autonomy and the idea of a united Macedonia. He wanted a much more independent Macedonian political path than the one acceptable to Belgrade and the new communist leadership in Skopje. In 1946 he was arrested, tried and sentenced to eleven years in prison on charges linked to separatism and alleged anti-Yugoslav activity. It was very much a show trial and Čento was out of favour.

He was released in poor health in 1955 which at least showed some vague attempt at kindness and he died in Prilep in 1957, an outcast figure whose name was unlikely to go down in history. But that logic fell apart when the communists were thrown out of office and attitudes changed quickly when North Macedonia became independent. The 1946 verdict was overturned and he was rehabilitated as a major figure in Macedonian national history and he is now seen as a hero of the people. The victors get to write history and all that, although in Čento’s case the posthumous editorial board appears to have made some substantial revisions.

Macedonia Square is the grand, theatrical heart of Skopje, full of statues, fountains, wide open space and a clear sense that nobody involved was aiming for understatement. It also has these exciting holes to surprise and delight (well, maybe not delight) any unsuspecting pedestrians….

For my first trip to Skopje I booked a hotel near the airport as the flight arrived late and it seemed the most efficient thing to do. Another handy advantage is that they offered a free shuttle from the airport and the hotel dog also came along to say hello.

I didn’t get very many photos as the whole arrangement of airport pick-up was so efficient that I walked from the terminal to the car. The check-in was swift, the staff member was friendly and the room was clean, cool and modern looking.

The bathroom arrangement, all very comfortable.

As an aside, this in my view is the best kind of tea, nice fruit flavoured tea.

The view in the morning from the hotel room.

I only realised in the morning that I had a balcony which had views over the local countryside and the hotel’s tennis courts. It is always slightly pleasing to discover an amenity after the event, like finding a bonus feature on a DVD, for those of us old enough to remember when that sentence meant anything.

Breakfast was included and I could pick anything from the menu.

I opted for the bacon and eggs with an espresso, all very agreeable it was too. They suggested sitting outside and that seemed like a pleasant option and there were no annoying insects out there to annoy me.

The helpful staff member gave me a book about the city to read during breakfast. There I was, eating bacon, drinking coffee and apparently bettering myself.

The interior of the hotel was modern, clean and welcoming, it’s quite a new arrangement and the online reviews are very positive.

One thing that was looking to be a little complex is that I needed to get back to the airport to get the airport bus into central Skopje. Fortunately, the hotel offered a cheap shuttle run straight into the city centre for me, dropping me off at the museum that I wanted to start my little expedition around Skopje from.

I’d certainly stay here again if I come back to Skopje, which I’m sure I will at some point. Fast communications, friendly staff members, a clean environment, a welcoming atmosphere, a comfortable room and a decent breakfast. All really very lovely, and with a hotel dog as well, which is the sort of extra facility booking websites should really start listing properly.

This isn’t the better known clock on the front of the former Skopje railway station building, but it shares the same time of 05:17 which is when the earthquake hit the city on 26 July 1963, killing over 1,000 people. This clock was located in the front desk hall of the railway station and was produced by Siemens in 1938 ready for the newly redesigned building. Under normal circumstances, it would probably have disappeared without ceremony, either thrown away, reused somewhere else or quietly lost in the sort of municipal storage arrangement from which objects rarely return.

As I have far too much imagination at times, I stood in the museum wondering how many people looked at this clock and were annoyed that they have missed their train. I’m fortunate to not have more things to worry about I think…..

Aneta Svetieva (1944-) is a Macedonian artist, sculptor and ethnologist who lives and works in Skopje. She studied at the Academy of Fine Arts in Belgrade, later gained a doctorate in ethnology and became known for work often rooted in clay, memory, folklore and Macedonian cultural traditions. I’m not sure what to note about this artwork from 1983, but it was certainly noticeable when I was walking around the museum. A wonderfully expressive head, wide eyes, an anxious mouth and a look that suggests that the figure has decided that the modern world is broadly unsatisfactory.I rather liked it…..

I thought that staying on a boat in the city centre of Skopje looked exciting and since I’m easily pleased, that’s what I opted for. It looked impressive from the outside and it’s permanently moored there which is reassuring as I would have wondered where I was if they had repositioned my accommodation.

The reception area was a bit opulent, this felt like somewhere Richard would stay, although he’d want to be in the VIP area away from ordinary people. There was a friendly welcome from the receptionist and it all seemed suitably relaxed and informal.

All rather lovely.

Meandering down the corridors and it made me forget that I was staying on a boat in a landlocked country.

The room and I was pleased to see that I had a view over the Vardar River. It was sufficiently spacious with the en suite being reasonably large and there was a desk and chair. Most importantly, there was air conditioning which was essential as I might not have mentioned this, but it was too hot in Skopje. But, of course, I don’t want my preferred operating temperature being the major narrative of this blog.

I wasn’t tempted by any of it, but there was a mini-bar in the room.

The upstairs dining area. There was no movement evident from the water, this boat has been securely moored and so there was no risk of getting seasick.

Some of the breakfast selection, which was included in the room rate.

And some more.

In addition to the cold items, there was also some cooked hot options as well.

I opted for the bacon and eggs. That dessert on the left hand side was rather lovely, I had another one of those…..

Anyway, I thought that this was all very agreeable, the room rate was more than I’d usually pay at around £60, but it was something a little different and it was very central. And although ‘hotel boat in Skopje’ hadn’t been part of my life planning until a few days ago, I could get used to going to sleep whilst listening to a river thundering by.

The Boatmen of Thessaloniki, or Gemidžii, might initially sound like the RNLI or something, but they were a small group of young Macedonian anarchist revolutionaries who carried out a series of bombings in Thessaloniki in 1903, when the city was still under Ottoman control. Their targets included banks, ships, railways and other symbols of Ottoman power, with the intention of forcing international attention onto the Macedonian question. It was neither gentle nor subtle, but they are now remembered as visionary revolutionaries, and I suppose handing out pamphlets politely outside a railway station would probably not have had quite the same geopolitical impact.

This monument, near to the Stone Bridge, was unveiled in July 2010 and shows the group in a suitably heroic and restless pose. The figures are shown with bags, books and purposeful expressions, making the whole arrangement feel less like a quiet memorial and more like a revolutionary team photograph in bronze. It’s hardly understated, but then there are tens of these huge sculptures around the city centre, so this needed to have the same importance to avoid it looking apologetic……