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  • Wrocław – Katyn Massacre Memorial

    Wrocław – Katyn Massacre Memorial

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    This is the memorial to the massacre at Katyn, or to give its full name “the Memorial to the Victims of Katyn, Kharkov and Mednoye Massacres and Camp Prisoners in Kozelsk, Starobelsk and Ostashkov.” It commemorates the 1940 massacre of thousands of Polish officers and intellectuals by the Soviet NKVD, one of those bleak moments of twentieth-century history where humanity was entirely and completely absent. It was a desperate attempt by the Soviets to destroy the Polish military leadership and an attempt to erase statehood. The Soviets had been humiliated by the Poles in the years after World War One with the Polish-Bolshevik War and I can understand their complete terror about needing to face another conflict.

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    The memorial, which is rather substantial, was erected in Juliusz Słowacki Park in 1999 and the official unveiling was on 22 September 2000. At the rear of this photo is the representation of the Angel of Death.

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    This represents the Mother of the Polish state cradling an executed prisoner who has a bullet hole in the back of his head and his arms tied together behind his back.

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    A small plaque notes that Tadeusz Tchórzewski was the sculptor. The monument is now under the care of the Lower Silesian Katyn Family Association which comprises of family members and descendants of those who were murdered. Wrocław was still Germany during the Second World War, when it was Breslau, so the impact in the city during these years were very different from other parts of Poland.

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    Powerful. There’s an information board nearby which reads:

    “In the spring of 1940, on Stalin’s orders, 22,000 Polish officers, policemen and other prisoners of war from the Kozelsk, Ostashkov and Starobelsk camps were murdered with a shot in the back of the head in Katyn, Mednoye, Kharkov and in unknown places in the former USSR. In tribute to the murdered, this monument was founded by the compatriots of Wrocław in 1999 on the initiative of the “Lower Silesian Katyn Family” association.”

    The Soviets covered up evidence of their executions after the end of the Second World War as they sought to bring Poland under their control. After 1990 and the collapse of the USSR the truth outed and evidence of the war crimes became much clearer after a series of exhumations. It’s evident that this powerful sculpture was needed in the 1990s to start spreading information about Katyn, something that had been kept from the Polish population by the Soviets. The Soviets never really convinced the Polish population that they were somehow their protectors in the post-war period, the collapse of the communist state in Poland was perhaps always inevitable and it’s maybe surprising that it lasted as long as it did.

  • Gdansk – Galleon Tour to Westerplatte

    Gdansk – Galleon Tour to Westerplatte

    [I originally posted this in June 2018, but have reposted it to fix the broken image links]

    It was my final day in Poland and Łukasz’s suggestion to go on a pirate galleon to Westerplatte didn’t seem like a bad idea. It required very little energy and involved sailing the high seas. Well, the Baltic Sea.

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    The company operating the trip has two boats that they use, which are quite different in design, but both look the part. We got to go on both of them, the Czarna Perła (the Black Pearl) and the Galeon Lew (the Lion Galleon).

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    They had live music with a man playing sea shanties, he was surprisingly good.

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    We had a little visit to Westerplatte, with the monument in the background. We only had an hour there which would have been insufficient to actually see the entire historic site. It was certainly much busier than when I had gone before in November 1996.

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    Our galleon arrives into Westerplatte, ready to sweep us back into Gdansk. We enjoyed watching some of the visitors trying to barge their way up the gangway to ensure that they got first entry to the boat…..

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    Gdansk harbour area.

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    Watching the other galleon go sailing past us as we headed back into Gdansk.

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    The final trip was over as we arrived back into Gdansk.

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    I’d never noticed this sign before, but it’s on the entry to the central harbour area.

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    Łukasz, surveying the high seas and wondering what life would have been like as a Polish naval commander.

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    Me, wondering what free gift Greggs will be sending me this month on the app.

  • Gdansk

    Gdansk

    [I originally posted this in June 2018, but have reposted it to fix the broken image links]

    After a lovely few days in Gdansk, I’m now off to the airport to catch my first Wizzair flight which will take me to Cologne in Germany.

    Willa Fahrenheita

    Galleon Tour to Westerplatte

    Caffe Perro Negro

    Browar PG4

    Forum Shopping Centre

    Westerplatte

    Kotka Cafe

    Salad Story

    Labeerynt

    Gryf Hotel

    Pijalnia Wodki i Piwa

    Solidarity Museum

    I’ve arrived   🙂

  • Gdansk – Willa Fahrenheita

    Gdansk – Willa Fahrenheita

    [I originally posted this in June 2018, but have reposted it to fix some broken image links]

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    For my final three days in Gdansk I stayed at the two-star Willa Fahrenheita. It’s about a twenty-minute walk to the city centre, but there’s a tram setup nearby meaning both Sopot and central Gdansk are easily accessible.

    The hotel reception isn’t always open, but there’s a number that can be called. They have a system of not using keycards or keys, but instead relying on numerical entry pads for the main door and the room, something which I prefer (I don’t have to wait at reception at hand them back….).

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    Nice welcome snack and drink, always a lovely little touch. The man at check-in was also particularly friendly, making a real effort to give a positive first impression, which he certainly managed to do. I was also checking-in slightly earlier than the usual hours, so his efforts were much appreciated.

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    The room had a pleasant balcony, although the view wasn’t spectacular, I had hoped to see The Hanging Gardens of Babylon or herds of wildebeest sweeping majestically across the plain.

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    The room was clean and comfortable, I quite liked the little sofa which overlooked the balcony area. I did find that the housekeeping hours were rather erratic, but given the price, I thought that it was overall a very acceptable stay. It was also quiet, it’s tucked away down a back street set back from the road, so it’s unlikely that anyone would be disturbed by external noise.

  • Gdansk – Caffe Perro Negro

    Gdansk – Caffe Perro Negro

    [I originally posted this in June 2018, but have reposted it to fix some broken image links]

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    I’m not really a cafe person normally, but since it started to pour with rain, I thought it would be a pleasant environment to sit for a while. There were no brave patrons sitting outside when I went in, primarily because it was bucketing down with rain, but it started to get a little busier by the time I had left. I also like the building, it’s rather quaint.

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    The cafe, which was mostly full when I was there, had a quirky interior, and felt rather at ease with itself. There was just one staff member serving, and she didn’t really get chance to stop during my visit. She seemed rushed, but was always helpful and pleasant.

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    I liked the spider effect which the lighting had. I also liked the atmosphere, as it was quiet and peaceful, without some awful rowdy and raucous music playing. The interior of the restaurant also felt quite artistic in its design, some considerable thought had been put in to how the cafe felt and looked for customers.

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    I was less taken with the light covering.

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    It was raining outside, so the rule is that I must have a hot chocolate. The rule is actually quite flexible, sometimes I must have beer. I wasn’t asked if I wanted cream on top, but I was very pleased that the drink appeared with lots of it.

    The price was reasonable as the cafe was quite central, 9zl for the drink, which is around £1.80. They did food as well, primarily cakes, but also rolls and some light meals. I didn’t see any chicken bakes on offer though, so I decided to save myself for a pub visit…..

  • Wizz Air (Luton Airport to Wrocław)

    Wizz Air (Luton Airport to Wrocław)

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    It was a very enjoyable weekend in Oxford with the LDWA, but it was time to get a National Express coach from this historic city to the charms of Luton Airport.

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    Parked up in Milton Keynes Coachway and I wonder whether travel can get any more exciting than this. I was pleased that I got the emergency exit row seat on this coach as it has more legroom, although it wasn’t particularly busy on board. The one excitement about sitting in this seat is that it seems to require the occupant to assist anyone who can’t work out that the coach toilet door slides rather than opens inwards or outwards.

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    I accept I didn’t try too hard to get an outstanding quality photo here, but safely at Luton Airport on time.

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    I cut this incredibly fine by arriving at the airport just three hours before my flight. Mine was the third last scheduled departure from Luton Airport that day.

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    Using my Priority Pass card to get some chicken tenders and a pint in Big Smoke.

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    And a Limoncello Spritzer in Nolito with the same card. I felt really quite decadent.

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    The screens indicated for a while that the flight would be 20 minutes late, but all ended up operating on time.

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    The boarding process was yet again efficient and free from drama, despite it being a relatively full flight. The aircraft is 9H-WBU which I don’t think I’ve been on before.

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    Here’s a nice blurry photo of London. I had a window seat assigned by the seating Gods, although astute readers will have guessed that because of the photos taken out of the window. The crew was efficient and they seemed to have very few sales when they walked up and down the aisle, but perhaps passengers were just tired.

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    I don’t know if the Blood Moon impacted this, but the water had a strange sort of glow.

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    We landed safely on time and I was ready to catch my bus to the airport.

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    I didn’t catch the intended bus to the airport as I then had an exciting hour-long wait in the airport whilst there was a detailed check of the stamps in my passport. The end conclusion was that I had lots more days left in the EU as they thought some countries hadn’t stamped their stamps very clearly, but the wait was sub-optimal when I wanted to be in my hotel.

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    And finally on the bus to the hotel, where I arrived at just before 03:00. Marvellous….

  • Wrocław – Mango Mama OVO

    Wrocław – Mango Mama OVO

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    Unlike in the UK, most Indian restaurants seem to open for lunch in Poland and this was a well reviewed option that I thought I’d try. It’s also next to PINTA which is perhaps my favourite craft beer bar in the city.

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    The interior felt modern and welcoming, with the design feeling on-trend and the atmosphere inviting. It’s part of a small chain and the delivery element of the business seemed to be thriving.

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    As it’s now getting colder and I’m less likely to be attacked by insects, I accepted the offer of sitting outside. The service during the meal was particularly friendly and the menu was clearly presented. There was a small group of Germans, an Italian and someone who seemed to be French, with English being the offered language for everyone, although I think that was just what the customers spoke in rather than anything else.

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    I went for the special of chicken biryani which was 27zl (or around £5) along with some roti and a mango lassi. The portion of biryani was generous, as was the chicken which was tender and full of flavour. The rice was cooked appropriately, the roti had a depth of flavour and the mango lassi was creamy and fruity. The whole arrangement came to around £9 which I thought was really rather decent value for a city centre restaurant.

    I was surprised and delighted with the whole experience, with the staff being friendly, the service efficient, the food being decent and the prices being reasonable. I’d certainly come here again, but there is so much choice in Wrocław that it’s becoming ever harder to know where to go and I’m forever getting distracted by new shiny places. I suspect my two loyal blog readers have no idea just how much stress is involved with making such decisions…

  • Oxford – Grapes Pub

    Oxford – Grapes Pub

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    As the weekend drew to a close, I had time for one final Good Beer Guide pub visit. Regarding the history, CAMRA notes:

    “First built in 1820 and rebuilt in 1879, this is a rare Victorian pub in the city centre. There is a single narrow panelled room, with the bar on one side and seating on the other. The glazed timber screens have been removed to give more room. In the entrance there is some original tiling, mostly obscured. After being run by St Austell Brewery for a while the pub reopened under West Berkshire Brewery ownership in April 2019 but the brewery went into administration.”

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    There was an extensive and interesting selection of real ales which covered a range of beer styles, it actually felt curated. The service was slightly sluggish, but it was friendly and efficient, with the general environment being inviting and comfortable. Everything felt clean and tidy, with power outlets available for those who might need them.

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    There was also an excellent range of craft beers and if I had longer then I would have started to work my way down a couple of these, I had no idea that they would have 40 keg lines.

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    It wasn’t very busy, although there was some drama when the 15:00 national phone emergency testing alarm went off.

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    I went for half a pint of the Bliss Point from Thornbridge, which I haven’t had before. It was well-kept, light and had flavours of hedgerow (this isn’t an official term), pine and citrus. The price was towards the lower end of the scale for Oxford, although some of the decadent craft beers are of course more decadently priced.

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    Although I didn’t eat, there was food available and the only customer I saw order a meal came over to the bar to say how much they’d enjoyed it. The menu isn’t overly extensive, it contains small plates, traditional pub classics, burgers, pizzas and the like.

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    Some beermat decoration on the ceiling of the pub. There are also some vinyl records near to the door which I think can be played, with sports being shown on the TV. Neither of those latter two points particularly engage me, but it all adds to a rounded pub and I’d be happy just with the beer selection. The recent online reviews are very positive and I can imagine that this venue will soon get busier as its reputation spreads as it certainly surprised and delighted me.

    This was the best pub that I visited in Oxford and I’m very grateful to the Good Beer Guide for pointing me towards it. The venue has won numerous CAMRA awards recently and shows what can happen when a large corporate doesn’t make it formulaic and drab. There are a few offers floating about, not least the current £3.50 for any pint of real ale on Mondays.

  • Gdansk – Forum Shopping Centre

    Gdansk – Forum Shopping Centre

    [I originally posted this in June 2018, but have reposted it to fix the broken image links]

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    Since I last came to Gdansk a huge new shopping centre has opened up near to the city centre, and it’s rather substantial in size with two McDonald’s (that’s how a shopping centre size can be judged). I do quite like shopping centres, as it means free toilets and food courts, which are both useful things to have available.

    I also have an exciting theory (well, it’s not exciting at all really, but I have to make things sound as interesting as I can) that a city’s economic situation can be measured to some degree by what is happening with their shopping centres. In Norwich, the Castle Mall seems to be looking ever emptier every time I go into it. There appear to be more closed up units than open units, and I do wonder whether the Castle Mall is actually going to be a viable shopping unit in a few years.

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    Anyway, I digress. In Gdansk, as in much of central and eastern Europe, they’re building shopping centres at some pace. And I rather like this new one, the Forum Gdansk, and it’s an impressive building in terms of its design and its size. Apparently there were some teething troubles and the opening launch got delayed, but all these little snagging issues (I use that word for Liam) seem to have been resolved.

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    The food court. One of my favourite places in any shopping centre. And, unlike many other centres around the world, they’ve actually got enough tables even for when I came here at a busy time (ie, not when I took the above photo).

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    Much of the shopping centre has three storeys of shops.

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    Big and airy….

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    Some sort of dance event being held outside of the centre.

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    The exterior area, and one of the centre’s two McDonald’s. The whole centre appears popular in terms of the number of people here, although since it’s just opened it might still have a novelty factor. The opening hours are long and it’s easily accessible from both the main railway station and the main street.