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  • Aarhus – Museum Slogan

    Aarhus – Museum Slogan

    [This is a repost from April 2018 as I’ve needed to fix the broken image link]

    I can’t imagine the Natural History Museum or the National Railway Museum in the UK wanting to steal this slogan….

  • Aarhus – Cabinn

    Aarhus – Cabinn

    [This is an old post from April 2018, I’ve just reposted it and corrected the broken images]

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    Aarhus isn’t the cheapest of places to visit, but fortunately there is a hotel operated by the Cabinn chain. The hotel is ridiculously large in size with 401 rooms, which must make it one of the largest in the country. The upside is that it has a modern and clean environment, the downside is that the cost of all this is that the rooms have to be small.

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    There are numerous seating areas around the hotel, this is just a random one on the ground floor which is located away from the reception area. For a hotel with such limited room sizes it’s a real positive that they’ve been generous with the size of their public areas.

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    There are some paintings on the walls, a few books on bookshelves and it has a rather relaxing feel to it.

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    There are also some outdoor areas for those wanting to enjoy the overcast evening weather…. But I’m sure it’s lovely in summer.

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    There are a lot of these corridors around the hotel, with several wings of rooms located in the large building. The numbering is though clear and the hotel so far seems pretty spotless.

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    The room is small, but it’s functional and clean. Unusually for a budget hotel there’s also a kettle with coffee and ‘English Earl Grey Tea’ provided, which is a handy touch. The top bunk is rather high, although fortunately I won’t be needing this week, but there is a note on the hotel information that protective bars can be borrowed from reception to “avoid injury”.

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    For those who do want to brave the higher bunk, there is a handy ladder provided in the room.

    The only little downside with this whole arrangement is that the controls for the shower and sink are integrated and they aren’t idiot proof. This has meant that I’ve had to spend ten minutes trying to work out which control works which item, and I still haven’t really worked it out. But it doesn’t matter, the random chance of it working is quite exciting.

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    The hotel is designed to feel like a cruise ship with a variety of different room sizes. For me this is easier to imagine as I have the canal outside the window, which is producing a rather lovely breeze.

  • Tallinn Trip – Soviet Statue Graveyard (Memorial to Jaan Anvelt)

    Tallinn Trip – Soviet Statue Graveyard (Memorial to Jaan Anvelt)

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    This memorial is to Jaan Anvelt (1884-1937), a prominent Estonian Bolshevik revolutionary and writer who played a significant role in the political landscape of Estonia during the early 20th century. Born in Viljandi County, he became involved in socialist politics at a young age and was a member of the Russian Social Democratic Labour Party and a leader of the Estonian student socialist movement. Anvelt was a passionate advocate for the rights of workers and peasants and believed in the establishment of a socialist state in Estonia.

    During the tumultuous years of the Russian Revolution and the subsequent Estonian War of Independence, Anvelt emerged as a key figure in the Estonian Communist Party. He served as the first premier of the Soviet Executive Committee of Estonia and later as the chairman of the Council of the Commune of the Working People of Estonia. Anvelt was instrumental in establishing Soviet power in Estonia, albeit briefly, before it was overthrown by Estonian and German forces.

    Following the Estonian War of Independence, Anvelt fled to Soviet Russia, where he continued his political and literary activities. He held various positions within the Communist Party and the Soviet government, contributing to the development of Estonian culture and literature within the Soviet Union. However, Anvelt’s fate took a tragic turn during Stalin’s Great Purge in the 1930s. He was arrested by the NKVD in 1937 on fabricated charges of counter-revolutionary activities. Imprisoned and subjected to torture, Anvelt died from the injuries sustained during a brutal beating while in custody.

    Designed by Martin Saks, the statue was placed on what was then Jaan Anvelt Street on 24 July 1962 and it remained there until 1992, with a pressure to remove it more in case it was stolen by criminals for scrap metal than any immediate need to take him off display. It would be easy to write him off as a traitor to the Estonian people, but he was a well read man and he has made significant contributions to literature. As with many historical figures, Estonians and Russians tend to have rather different perspectives on his legacy. Let’s just say he’s a reminder that history is rarely black and white, and even revolutionaries can have a complicated story to tell.

  • Aarhus – Hygge

    Aarhus – Hygge

    [This is an old post from 2018 as I’m working through them restoring the broken images, but there wasn’t a broken image on this post so that’s easy. Anyway, this whole concept seems to lure some in with promises of warm socks, flickering candles, and the comforting aroma of cinnamon buns. You whisper sweet nothings about crackling fireplaces, steaming mugs of glögg, and the blissful sound of rain drumming against window panes. But then, reality bites. The fire is stubbornly refusing to light, the glögg has mysteriously gone cold, and the only thing drumming against the window pane is the neighbour’s cat, demanding to be let in. But I’m British, I like seeing the problems with situations. BTW, the image is just one of a burger I had in Aarhus as that was the nearest I could get to the concept from my image library that I have to work with]

    It’s all very on-trend to talk about the Danish word ‘hygge’ and I’ve seen some British pubs describe their atmosphere using the word. Frankly though, if you run a pub where the clientele have to dodge glasses being thrown around and the star of the show is Fosters and Carling, then there’s a good chance that the concept isn’t working for you…..

    I’ve seen how Denmark is often rated as the happiest country in the world, something which I’ve always been sceptical of. I’m unsure of how a country can be truly happy when it doesn’t have any outlets of Greggs, rather like a wine glass without wine.

    But the city of Aarhus seems to be beautifully laid-back. People doesn’t seem hurried or stressed, there’s no yelling after drinking half a pint of Carling and there’s an almost care-free atmosphere. I’m not sure that Denmark is ready for Greggs yet, that burst of culinary energy might make them just too content, the inevitable danger is then that their productivity fades. So, just for now, Greggs for the British only.

  • Tallinn Trip – Soviet Statue Graveyard (Memorial to Johannes Raudmets)

    Tallinn Trip – Soviet Statue Graveyard (Memorial to Johannes Raudmets)

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    Next in line in the almost comedic line-up of Soviet heroes that the Soviet Union executed is Johannes Raudmets (1892-1937). He was an Estonian-born Soviet military leader who played a significant role in the Red Army during the tumultuous years of the Russian Revolution and Civil War. Born in Virika, Governorate of Estonia, he began his military career in the Imperial Russian Army during the First World War. However, with the outbreak of the Bolshevik Revolution, he switched allegiance and joined the Red Army, where he quickly rose through the ranks.

    Raudmets proved to be a skilled and capable commander, earning the prestigious Order of the Red Banner for his service. He held various important positions within the Red Army, including command of the 15th Rifle Division. His dedication to the Bolshevik cause and his military achievements led to his promotion to the rank of Komdiv (division commander), a high-ranking position within the Soviet military hierarchy. In 1937, during the Great Purge, he was arrested on fabricated charges of treason and conspiracy. Despite his loyal service to the Soviet Union, he was convicted and executed on 9 September 1937. In 1966, the Soviet Union changed their mind and decided he was a hero.

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    The museum itself notes that the situation is entirely ridiculous, noting that some said “the only thing red about Raudmets was the colour of the monument.” And note that even when this granite statue, designed by Ernst Kirs, in 1975 was installed they pretended that he had died in 1942 so it looked more like he died fighting in a war rather than being killed by Stalin.

    His wife attended the unveiling of the statue, which was placed in Paide to mark the 35th anniversary of the Estonian Soviet Socialist Republic. I don’t know what she thought about all of this, but I suspect it’s what the Soviet secret police told her to think. This memorial actually stayed in place until 2007 before it came to the museum, not least perhaps as Raudmets wasn’t really a direct threat to Estonia.

  • Tallinn Trip – Soviet Statue Graveyard (Memorial to Jakob Palvadre)

    Tallinn Trip – Soviet Statue Graveyard (Memorial to Jakob Palvadre)

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    Jakob Palvadre (1889-1936) was an Estonian politician and Soviet military leader, born in Tõlliste Parish in southern Estonia. He pursued academic studies in history and philology at the University of Tartu and later in Saint Petersburg. From a young age, Palvadre embraced socialist politics, joining the Estonian Social Democratic Workers’ Party and actively participating in the 1905 Russian Revolution. He served in the First World War, first in the Russian Imperial Army and then in the Red Army, obviously having some competence as they kept promoting him. He then fought against Estonians wanting independence and later worked as a history professor at Leningrad State University. However, in 1936, the Soviet Union declared him as an enemy against the people and he was taken onto a barge and drowned on 11 October 1936, with his family then being repressed.

    Anyway, the Soviet Union decided that perhaps he wasn’t an enemy of the people and this granite statue, designed by Ernst Kirs, was unveiled on 28 October 1981 in Valga City Park. This is where this becomes a complete mess for his reputation. So, initially he was a Soviet fighting against the Estonians. Then the Soviets said he was a spy for the Estonians fighting against the Soviets. Then, after they executed him, they changed their minds and said he was a Soviet hero fighting against the Estonians. Then Estonia becomes free and the population of a liberated nation don’t want this enemy of the Estonian people on display. The statue was taken down on 18 September 1991 by members of the Estonian Defence League and brought to this museum in 2008.

  • Tallinn Trip – Soviet Statue Graveyard (Memorial to August Kork and Aleksander Kukk)

    Tallinn Trip – Soviet Statue Graveyard (Memorial to August Kork and Aleksander Kukk)

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    It’s genuinely getting just a little difficult to take the Soviets seriously with memorials such as this, commemorating the lives of two Red Army commanders, August Kork and Aleksander Kukk. August Kork (1887-1937) was an Estonian-born military leader who rose to prominence in the Red Army during the Russian Civil War. He held significant commands and was a decorated hero of the Soviet Union. However, he was later caught up in Stalin’s purges and executed in 1937. Aleksander Kukk (1886-1932) was another Estonian who served as a Red Army commander during the Russian Civil War. He also held important positions in the Soviet military but died under unclear circumstances in 1932.

    So, Kork was executed by the Soviets for attempting to overthrow the communist regime, a likely ridiculous claim and he was realistically part of Stalin’s Great Purge and did nothing wrong. He went from hero to zero to hero and back to zero when Estonia was liberated. In reality, the Soviets did admit in the 1950s that he had been treated badly and that is why they wanted to reinforce his hero status, but executing your own military leader and then trying to apologise feels somewhat sub-optimal. Much of this really is based around the four hour ‘secret speech’ made at midnight by Khrushchev in February 1956, a confusing little arrangement which is a fascinating story in itself.

    The information board at the museum notes that the statue was unveiled in front of the building of the Chair of Military Science of Tartu State University and that the students there disliked the compulsory military studies they were taught. The monument was pulled down in 1990 and has been at the museum since 2007, a testament to the shifting tides of history.

  • Tallinn Trip – Soviet Statue Graveyard (Monument to the Coup of 1 December 1924)

    Tallinn Trip – Soviet Statue Graveyard (Monument to the Coup of 1 December 1924)

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    This isn’t the most subtle of the monuments at the museum and it was installed at the Baltic railway station in Tallinn on 17 July 1975 to mark the communist coup of 1 December 1924. The location was chosen as the railway station was one of the places that the communists were able to seize and it was a huge structure, standing eight metres high although only these bronze sections remain.

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    There are three groups of people in the monument:

    Group 1 : ‘Attack’ which depicts armed workers dashing into battle towards Baltic Station.

    Group 2 : ‘New Fighters, Taking the Place of the Fallen’ which pledged to continue the fight.

    Group 3 : ‘The Raging People’ depicting the anger of the workers towards their oppressors.

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    The monument was designed by Matti Varik and the bronze elements were made in St. Petersburg. The bronze figures from the monument were removed in February 1993 and the stone base was removed in 1994. The monument was widely mocked, the coup was operated from the Soviet Union and entirely failed. 125 of the Soviet insurgents were killed and the Estonian people wanted nothing to do with this attempt to remove their Government.  The very thought that this monument would somehow inspire the people of Estonia shows just how out of touch political leaders had become in their attempt to con the nation.

  • 200 Years Ago in Norwich : Building of a New Corn Exchange

    200 Years Ago in Norwich : Building of a New Corn Exchange

    Back to my posts about what was happening in Norwich 200 years ago as I needed another break from Soviet statues in Estonia. Something reported in the Norfolk Chronicle newspaper in November 1824 was interesting to me as I hadn’t much thought about it, which is that was there a corn exchange in Norwich? Well, there was, originally it was located at St. Andrew’s Hall, but by the early 1820s planning was starting for a dedicated building. In the newspaper it noted the discussions that were being had and there was a meeting where they were considering whether to accept a generous offer from the Norwich Corporation of land on Castle Meadow to build a new Corn Exchange. There were lots of arguments about what documents should and shouldn’t have been brought to the attention of the meeting, showing that not much really changes in this sort of thing. I also liked how the Chronicle reported the later part of the discussion, which they referred to as “a desultory conversation”.

    Not much was really agreed at the meeting either way, but there was progress as the above building opened in 1828. It was located in what is now Exchange Street and it’s not entirely hard to work out how that street obtained its name. It was a success as they decided to build a bigger corn exchange and that opened further down the same street, but this was demolished in 1964 as Jarrolds wanted to extend their store.

    But, going back to December 1828 when the corn exchange opened, I rather liked the reporting at the time of this:

    “A dinner was given to celebrate the opening of the New Corn Exchange, when a scheme presented itself seldom witnessed in Norwich: not less than 450 of the most respectable yeomanry in the county of Norfolk were assembled on the occasion, and they might with pride and satisfaction look round upon this noble building, which had been erected for the accommodation of the county almost entirely by their own voluntary contributions. The hall was beautifully and tastefully lighted up, partly by gas, and by or-molu lamps, hung from the ceiling and placed along the whole range of tables. The dinner, dessert and wines were excellent. The only drawback was the length of time it unavoidably took to ‘furnish forth’ the tables. There being no accommodation for cooking on the premises, the dishes were obliged to be brought a considerable distance. With the exception of Mr Coke, there was a most lamentable deficiency in the attendance of the aristocracy.”

    So their dinner was late and there were no really posh people there, but otherwise it was obviously a rather pleasant evening. BTW, I had to Google what or-molu lamps were, apparently “Ormolu is the technique of applying finely ground, high-carat gold–mercury amalgam to an object of bronze”. So there we go.

  • Tallinn Trip – Soviet Statue Graveyard (Helene Kullman Statue)

    Tallinn Trip – Soviet Statue Graveyard (Helene Kullman Statue)

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    Another displaced statue and another contested Soviet claim, they certainly don’t make things clear-cut in their propaganda. Anyway, Helene Kullman, also known as ‘Leen’ was an Estonian woman who became a Soviet intelligence agent during World War II. Born in Tartu in 1920, she was trained in espionage and sent to gather information on German troop movements in occupied Estonia. Posing as a refugee, she successfully infiltrated German-held territory and relayed valuable intelligence to the Soviet Baltic Fleet. However, her mission was cut short when she was arrested by the Gestapo in Tallinn in 1943. Despite enduring torture, Kullman refused to betray her comrades or reveal sensitive information. Well, that’s the story, but it’s controversial and might not have happened. There is credible evidence that she survived the war and so she remains something of a complex enigma with the further complexity that there’s a suggestion that she might have been a double agent.

    The memorial to her was designed by Elmar Rebane and unveiled in front of the Helene Kullman vocational school on 23 December 1972. The unveiling was attended by her twin sister and a room at the school was used as a museum to the agent. The monument was removed in the early 1990s and brought to the museum in 2006. When walking around these memorials, it didn’t occur to me just how controversial the facts behind them were. Like with much else, to most Russians she would be a hero, to most Estonians it’s fair to speculate that the matter is rather less clear cut.

    As an interesting comparison between different Wikipedia pages depending on the country, the Estonian Wikipedia page has two death dates for her depending on which account is believed and it has a lot of content about the controversial subject of whether she was actually even on the side of the Soviets. The Russian Wikipedia page doesn’t have both dates and has a section titled “Estonian press claims about Leen Kuhlman’s double life” which it rejects as Russophobic nonsense and doesn’t much concern itself with the controversy at all.