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  • Venice – Il Santo Bevitore

    Venice – Il Santo Bevitore

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    After posting some photos on Facebook, I was fortunate that Ian (the one that’s important in CAMRA) noticed my post and commented that there was a craft beer bar in Venice. I had managed to miss this, so I embarked on a thirty minute walk to find it.

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    Now, this looks rather lovely, a joy to behold in Italy.

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    I had just eaten pizza, but they had some snacks available here.

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    It wasn’t that big a venue, but it seemed easy to just sit at the bar. The service was friendly and personable, so the environment felt welcoming. There was a variety of Italian and international beers, with a range of styles covered and a strong presence of Belgian beers.

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    My first beer was the Mary Hoppins from Il Santo Bevitore, an Italian brewer. It was a decent beer, being hazy, hoppy, floral and quite fluffy.

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    My second beer was Sour #1 from Evoqe Brewing and it’s a delight to see an Italian sour. Punchy lemon was the main element, but there was other fruitiness going on there. It was balanced and like a decadent Hooch, as if Hooch isn’t decadent enough….

    This bar is certainly one that deserves to be supported, it’s on-trend, modern, welcoming and has a well curated selection of different beers available. The prices were moderate and there was food for those who needed some snacks whilst working through the beer options.

  • Venice – Pizza 2000

    Venice – Pizza 2000

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    I’m not sure that it’s the most exciting name for a pizzeria and perhaps it doesn’t look overly decadent from the outside, but it’s very well reviewed online and it seemed a good option for my evening meal. It’s handy being in Italy as I can get pizza and it is then evident that I’m eating the local food, a bit of cultural immersion and all that.

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    The menu board and there are pizzas sold by the slice, or greedy people such as myself can just buy a whole one. The service here was friendly and engaging, with a number of customers passing through so they seemed popular.

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    I ordered the diavolo pizza and then thought that I might as well get a beer with it. Firstly, the beer was a Ceres Strong Ale which was malty and robust. Secondly, the main event, the pizza which was light and fluffy, with plenty of toppings and a depth of flavour. It felt simple, which is how I think pizzas should be.

    There was a small area inside to eat-in, which seemed the most appropriate to me. The restaurant was clean and tidy, with the atmosphere feeling inviting and welcoming. All really rather lovely and definitely recommended. Unfussy food, I like that and the price was moderate for the centre of Venice, the beer and pizza cost just over £10 which I thought was very reasonable.

  • Venice – Evening Photos

    Venice – Evening Photos

    As I haven’t been to Venice before, I thought I’d have a meander around as well as visiting a craft beer bar and a pizzeria, but more of those separately. That means that I can surprise and delight my two blog readers with some photos of Venice in the evening, although I accept that there are probably quite a few of these on the Internet already….

    Incidentally, it’s rather lovely to be somewhere that doesn’t have cars everywhere….

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  • Bologna – Venice Rail Journey

    Bologna – Venice Rail Journey

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    Following my rail journey from Rimini to Bologna, the next part was to Venice which is a city that I’ve never been to. I’ve wanted to see it for many years, but I’m aware of how busy and touristy it is, so have never quite made the journey to visit.

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    The main departures hall in Bologna.

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    I had twenty minutes which wasn’t enough to go into the centre of Bologna, but it was enough time to get a KFC. So, I did and very nice it was too.

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    Boarding the train, which was on time, something which I’ve been fortunate with on the Italian rail network.

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    The interior that I’m used to now from Hitachi, which is their Rock train. It was marginally busy initially, but then much quieter on the second half of the journey. We went through Padua and I decided that I wanted to go there, but more on that soon.

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    Disembarking in Venice and I was unusually excited to see the city. I visited at a time when there was no charge for visitors to enter as well, which is always handy.

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    This is Venice’s Santa Lucia railway station, the one which is located on the island of Venice itself.

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    Leaving the railway station and getting my first view of Venice.

  • Rimini – Bologna Rail Journey

    Rimini – Bologna Rail Journey

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    After a few hours in Rimini, which I decided wasn’t really enough and so I’ll have to come back, it was time for the next part of my rail journey which was to Bologna. I was changing trains there, so I only had a short period there, although I did spend a week in Bologna a few years ago. I remember lots of tall towers….

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    Mine was the 12:43 train and I was pleased that everything was on time. My plan was to travel to Bologna and then from there, I’d go to Venice.

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    The railway station opened in 1861 and it has survived, albeit damaged, bombings from the Austro-Hungarian Navy during the First World War and from allied aircraft during the Second World War. There aren’t many facilities at the railway station, there’s a bar, shop and paid for toilets. This is something that annoys me about most railway stations in Italy, they don’t have the UK approach to matters that they really should be free of charge. Well, in my view anyway.

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    My Hitachi Rock train gliding into the platform.

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    It was a little busy, but there were still plenty of seats. As I’ve mentioned numerous times on this blog recently, I like these clean, open and modern double-decker trains. I’ve yet to have a problem getting a seat on one of these trains and the prices are towards the lower end of the scale.

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    And safely into Bologna railway station.

  • Rimini – Chiesa di Sant’Agostino (Frescoes)

    Rimini – Chiesa di Sant’Agostino (Frescoes)

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    I was rather pleased to be shown to where some historic frescoes are located in this beautiful church. The frescoes were painted in the second half of the fourteenth century, but they had become forgotten following a Baroque restoration, an earthquake and numerous other little renovations about the place. They were rediscovered in the early twentieth century, following the 1916 earthquake. They’re located in the apse of the church, but visitors have to walk around to see them as they’re separated off from the altar and the main part of the church.

    They’re painted by what is referred to as the Rimini School of Painting, which is in the style of early Gothic art. The frescoes have been stabilised now as part of a restoration, but there are quite big gaps in the whole arrangement thanks to the passage of time. Much of this damage was done between 1580 and 1585 when an Episcopal decree stated that the walls needed to be whitewashed.

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  • Rimini – Other Photos

    Rimini – Other Photos

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    And some other photos that I took during my rather brief stay in Rimini.

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    Approaching the railway station.

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    As a general comment, the provision for cyclists seems to be ever improving across Italy.

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    I accept that this might not look like the most exciting of photos, but the significance is that this is where the first British bombing of Rimini took place. It occurred on All Saints’ Day, 1 November 1943, at 11:50 and 68 people died with 69 people injured.

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    I didn’t have time to go in, but this museum, Domus del Chirurgo, has one of the mosaic floors that has been discovered in the city.

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    A sculpture of Count Luigi Ferrari Banditi (1849-1895) who was a local politician from the noble Rasponi family of Ravenna.

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    A monument to Francisco Busignani (1913-1936), an Italian engineer and army officer who lost his life in the Second Italo-Ethiopian War. This was added to Piazza Ferrari in 1939, designed by Elio Morri.

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    The Torre dell’Orologio which is where the names of the fallen from the area are listed. This was constructed in 1547 and rebuilt in 1759, before being refocused as a war memorial in the twentieth century.

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    A bronze statue of the great Roman emperor, Julius Caesar. This dates to 1933 and was cast by the foundry Fonderia Laganà. The statue was removed during the Second World War for political reasons and to prevent it from being damaged, before then being put in a military store before being put back here.

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    This might look like a random hole, but this is Piazza Tre Martiri and those are the original Roman paving stones. There’s some archaeological work planned here with the intention of making more of this history open to the public.

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    Christmas is coming……

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    One of the harbours for those who can afford a yacht, located on the Marecchia River.

  • Rimini – Chiesa di Sant’Agostino

    Rimini – Chiesa di Sant’Agostino

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    The outside of this church which was first mentioned in 1069. By the middle of the thirteenth century, it was handed to the newly formed Order of the Hermits of St Augustine, who transformed the modest parish into a major Gothic-style monastic church arrangement, featuring a large nave and a red-brick bell tower that became one of the tallest structures in Rimini. That bell tower, rising over 55 metres, was for centuries a navigational landmark which was handy for sailors in the Adriatic.

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    The unfinished brick facade.

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    A funerary monument from the 1630s.

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    The church is the burial location of Alberto Marvelli (1918-1946) who has now been beatified for his actions during the Second World War. Known as a campaigner for social justice, he saved many lives during the war but was killed in a car accident in 1946. In 2004, Pope John Paul II declared him Blessed, and his tomb inside this church has become a place of quiet pilgrimage.

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    The church has a beautiful interior, spacious and dignified. There are some fourteenth century frescoes from artists involved with the Rimini School of Painting, but more of that in another post as they surprised and delighted me when I found them.

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    The decorated ceiling and apparently (well, I’m not going to know either way) there are some stuccoes by Ferdinando Galli-Bibiena (1647-1743).

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    I thought that this was rather realistic.

    Anyway, a really rather lovely church, but one of the staff mentioned to me that there were some frescoes and this was my favourite thing about the building, so much so they can get their own post.

  • Rimini – Chiesa dei Servi 

    Rimini – Chiesa dei Servi 

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    This rather glorious single-nave church was built in 1317, funded by the wealthy Malatesta family and it was operated (I’m not sure whether that’s the right word, but I’ve decided that I like it) by the Order of the Servants of Mary, a Catholic order established in Florence in 1233.

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    It’s very much a Baroque affair and that’s down to the work of Gaetano Stegani who modernised the whole design of the church between 1774 and 1777. However, the Servants of Mary didn’t get long to enjoy their newly designed church, they were kicked out in 1798 when their order was suppressed. The Dominicans replaced them, but they lasted for just a year.

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    There isn’t much subtlety to the Baroque period….

    After religious matters settled down somewhat in the nineteenth century, the building was used as a parish church. In 1894, the façade which had remained relatively modest, was rebuilt under the supervision of Giuseppe Urbani. As if the Baroque styling wasn’t enough, the artist Luigi Samoggia added more gilding to the internal stuccoes.

    It was a peaceful church with the smell of incense running through it. It’s perhaps a little too ornate for my own tastes, but it’s beautiful and I suspect that the Malatesta family would have been pleased with it.

  • Rimini – 1613 Statue of Pope Paul V and the Time of Catholic Nepotism

    Rimini – 1613 Statue of Pope Paul V and the Time of Catholic Nepotism

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    Located at Piazza Cavour, in the heart of Rimini, is this statue of Pope Paul V (1550-1621) who held his Papal role from 1605 until 1621. This statue was designed by Nicola Cordier and cast by Sebastiano Sebastian in 1613.

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    I don’t know how long the marble base has been here, but some subtle repair work can be noted by the trained eye.

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    When Napoleon’s forces began making their enthusiastically unwelcome way through Italy, the denizens of Rimini took one look at their proudly papal statue and thought, perhaps quite reasonably, that it might not be the wisest thing to leave on public display. In an act of civic self preservation, they quietly removed Pope Paul V’s papal insignia and replaced it with more neutral decorations, effectively giving him a little political makeover in the hope that French troops wouldn’t take offence and reduce him to rubble. It was a cunning plan which worked well and the statue is still here today.

    But, back to Pope Paul V, this great man of peace was merrily ordering assassinations on his opponents and also handing out key roles to his family members. Like many other Popes, he made his nephew a cardinal and the Italian word for nephew is ‘nepos’. And, that’s where the word nepotism comes from, the Popes handing out trophies to their family members, although it’s thought that a good number of Popes actually pretended their sons were their nephews (to get around that celibacy thing they demanded of others). It took until Pope Innocent XII (1615-1700) thought that this power grab by families was a little, well, sub-optimal and he started the fightback against nepotism.