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  • Wizz Air (Madiera to Warsaw Chopin Airport)

    Wizz Air (Madiera to Warsaw Chopin Airport)

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    I will return to some more Funchal posts, but to continue the year’s travel, here I was back at Madeira Airport, named after Cristiano Ronaldo. It’s one of the more beautiful vistas that I’ve seen from an airport terminal building.

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    There were no lounges for me to visit at the airport, so I popped to Burger King as there were some power outlets.

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    A beer and a burger, very decadent…. It was a very clean and organised Burger King, buying the burger and beer outside of a meal deal proved to be cost effective as well.

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    As the temperature was pleasant, I went back outside to have a little sit down in the sun.

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    And after that excitement of looking at the Atlantic, it was time for the flight. Going through security had some drama as a guy with his family decided to open the barriers up and cut through. The guy at security called over “sorry, I didn’t know you worked here”, to which the barrier mover said “I don’t, I’m a passenger” and the retort was “if you don’t work here, why do you think you can change the security process?” before making him go all the way back around. This amused me, but I don’t get out much.

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    The airport has a viewing terrace so I went to record an easyJet flight land, with this being the Wizz Air aircraft I’d be taking to go back to Warsaw.

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    The boarding process was organised and efficient, with a staff member checking that passengers weren’t boarding with excessively sized bags.

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    Walking to the aircraft, which was 9H-WAF, which had taken me from Dortmund to Vilnius earlier in the year.

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    Given that this was a five and a half hour long flight, I was so delighted that the seating Gods gave me an aisle seat that I purchased a chicken noodle from the trolley to help break up the journey a little. A flight this long in Wizz Air seats with a bag at my feet was a bit long, I’ll be more cautious of this in future.

    The crew were, once again, professional and personable, quietly going up and down the cabin a few times with the trolley and collecting rubbish. The aircraft was clean, the announcements were clear and I can’t say that the flight went quickly, but it didn’t feel too onerous and I had paid only £8.99 which felt like a bargain.

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    And landed safely in Warsaw, although I wasn’t leaving the airport as I had another flight to catch a few hours later.

  • Funchal – Sacred Art Museum of Funchal (Saint Benedict)

    Funchal – Sacred Art Museum of Funchal (Saint Benedict)

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    There’s a lot to be said for paintings where the gallery isn’t actually sure who is in the image, that ensures that there’s room for some debate. The gallery knows it’s from Funchal Cathedral, they think it’s from Portugal, they think it’s fifteenth century and they think it might be St. Benedict.

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    A close-up of the mitre and ChatGPT agrees, noting:

    “This is almost certainly St Benedict of Nursia. The clues are the black monastic habit (Benedictines are traditionally shown in black), the open book (his Rule, or monastic learning more generally) and the abbot’s crozier (the staff, marking him out as an abbot or founder figure rather than just “generic monk”). The very calm, frontal pose in a grand architectural setting is also a common way Renaissance and late medieval painters present major founders and reformers: not mid miracle, more “here is the authority figure, in his element”.”

    Incidentally, Benedict is known for his guidelines on how to be a decent monk, and I rather like the:

    “Chapter 30 directs that a wayward brother who has left the monastery must be received again, if he promises to make amends; but if he leaves again, and again, after his third departure all return is finally barred”

    Even Christians have their limit of tolerance it seems.

    Going back to AI, which I know is now a running theme on this blog, but I asked it about the age of the painting and it noted:

    “Visually, it’s very much in that early Renaissance habit of showing a saint as a solid, frontal presence in a carefully constructed architectural space. The big tell is the perspective: the receding arcade, the coffered or ribbed vaulting and the tiled floor are all doing that 15th-century “look, I can do depth properly” thing. The gilded decorative bits around the arches feel like a hangover from late medieval taste, which is also common in the earlier part of the Renaissance rather than the later, more fully naturalistic 16th century. I would put it plausibly at say 1480 to 1510.”

    That’s entirely in keeping with what the gallery thinks and I rather like the way in which this logic on dating is being explained. Work on Funchal Cathedral was coming to an end in 1508, so my best guess (helped by AI) is that they acquired this for when it opened.

  • Funchal – Sacred Art Museum of Funchal (George and the Dragon)

    Funchal – Sacred Art Museum of Funchal (George and the Dragon)

    This is a painting of George and the Dragon and the museum doesn’t know the artist, although it suggests that it was painted between 1401 and 1425 in northern Europe. That gold background, likely using gold leaf, was used to indicate heaven, so this is a sacred story and not a bit of Norfolk everyday weather.

    Despite it showing claws and teeth, I’m not entirely sure that the dragon was perhaps as scary looking as it could have been, nor, I think it’s fair to say, is the artist exactly George Stubbs with that horse painting. But, it’s got that rather positive imagery of the brave St. George saving the princess from the nasty serpent, I can imagine this quite sizeable artwork being displayed in a medieval church.

  • Funchal – Sacred Art Museum of Funchal (Sculpture of Saint Blaise)

    Funchal – Sacred Art Museum of Funchal (Sculpture of Saint Blaise)

    This is a limestone sculpture from the period 1490 to 1510, once in the church in Gaula, Santa Cruz which is on the island of Madeira. It depicts Saint Blaise who became famous because he saved a child who had a fish-bone stuck in their throat, apparently by praying enthusiastically. He was then known as someone quite good at dealing with toothache, throat issues and general health issues relating to the head. He’s the patron saint of Dubrovnik and the English town of St. Blazey is named after him.

    Emperor Licinius, who was meant to be quite helpful towards Christians initially, didn’t entirely like Saint Blaise, so he had him beheaded. That feels slightly unreasonable, but I suppose they were different times.

    But, back to the limestone sculpture that I liked. There are some polychrome traces, so this was once painted rather than being bare limestone. The church in Santa Cruz opened in 1530, although it was later replaced with a more substantial affair. I assume that this was once located in a niche in the church, but I’m not sure how it made its way to the museum.

    And I’ve gone to AI to show me what this sculpture might once have looked like when painted. This seems like a remarkably decent attempt at recolouring the sculpture, it genuinely feels like it has been brought back to life.

  • Funchal – Sacred Art Museum of Funchal (Balcony and Tiled Panel)

    Funchal – Sacred Art Museum of Funchal (Balcony and Tiled Panel)

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    The next series of posts will be from the Sacred Art Museum in Funchal, which holds extensive collections relating to religious art. It’s housed in the former Bishop’s Palace, which is a suitably grand affair, and which has this rather impressive tiled installation on the upstairs balcony.

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    There are three panels which are titled ‘Faith, Hope and Charity’.

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    It’s decoratively beautiful.

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    It also offered views over Funchal and there is one of the cruise liners that flock to the city in the background. The weather was terrible and this was about the best visibility I had seen during the morning.

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    The city and Funchal Cathedral.

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    I’m sure that the sea would look beautiful if it was visible.

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    And another photo of over foggy Funchal.

  • Funchal – The Snug Smoke House

    Funchal – The Snug Smoke House

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    It might not look like it from the photo, but there was torrential rain in Funchal when I was there and so I decided to head into a restaurant for lunch. This smoked meat restaurant was well reviewed online and had some craft beer so that’s the one that I opted for.

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    The decor was modern and comfortable, but as I was the only diner in the restaurant I decided to sit in one of the more decadent booths. I remained the only person in the venue until just before leaving, so I’m not sure that this was one of the more profitable lunch-time services that they’ve offered.

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    The restaurant had a beer fridge so I went to investigate that and this is the Vila Maria from Oitava Colina. It’s a blonde beer from this Lisbon based brewery, the beer was soft, gentle and inoffensive.

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    I went for the blue cheese burger with bacon and this surprised and delighted me. The burger was tender, the bacon had a richness of taste and the gherkin added some texture. The chips were suitably salty and the blue cheese on the burger added some punch to the whole arrangement.

    I went for some of the local lager on draft, this is the Coral, and it had some slight sweetness although was ultimately a bit generic and unexciting. I do like trying at least one local beer and Coral was the only one that I could find.

    I really rather liked this venue and the atmosphere was comfortable even though it wasn’t exactly packed with customers. The service was friendly and the food and drink all met my expectations.

  • Madeira – Hotel Solar Bom Jesus

    Madeira – Hotel Solar Bom Jesus

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    Right, posting about Norwich Castle Museum can resume another time, I need to get back to Madeira….. This was the hotel that I opted for in Madeira during my two nights there, conveniently located near to the airport although not as convenient for Funchal.

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    There was a friendly welcome at the reception desk and the hotel had a light and airy feel to it.

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    The room was functional, clean and comfortable. The bathroom also had an actual bath as well, something which I prefer.

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    The breakfast was included in the room rate and included a lot of fruit, cold meats and cheeses, alongside some bread and croissants. There were some hot sausage and egg options, but I was content with the cold selection. I probably had too much fruit given there was so much choice of that, I have to be careful of doing that as I like having a healthy and balanced diet.

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    I was very happy with these, bread and tomatoes, alongside pineapple, orange juice and coffee. The coffee had a slightly odd flavour, although it wasn’t unpleasant, and the machine poured it in around one second, it was a surprisingly efficient operation.

    The hotel is well reviewed online and it has a swimming pool as well as some other facilities, although the entirety of the island was a swimming pool on my second day. The prices are towards the lower end of the scale for the island and it’s a short journey from the airport, so I’d stay here again.

  • Norwich – Norwich Castle Museum (Great Hall)

    Norwich – Norwich Castle Museum (Great Hall)

    This is the recreated Great Hall at Norwich Castle Museum and they’re very proud of the work that’s taken place here. Personally, I’m not convinced, this feels like a school classroom and doesn’t show to me how majestic a room of this size and stature would have been. I’m not sure that the wooden floorboards do much here, they don’t give me vibes of castle.

    Looking down the mezzanine level gives an impression look at the work that has taken place. I’m struggling to buy into this, there’s the rather beautiful stonework of the castle keep on the left and then some really rather basic looking interior decor. It’s meant to be set up for a large feast, but it more looks to me like wagamama after they’ve cleared 90% of the seating out. But, each to their own, others might be inspired by the photos.

  • Norwich – Norwich Castle Museum (Painting of Robert Jannys)

    Norwich – Norwich Castle Museum (Painting of Robert Jannys)

    I think that being the Mayor of Norwich, and not just once but twice, in the early sixteenth century would have certainly been quite an intriguing role. Robert Jannys (1480-1530) was a grocer who evidently did quite well, he got himself involved in local politics and then reached the dizzy heights of being Sheriff as well as the Mayor. He made a lot of money, a great chunk of which he spent on supporting local churches, particularly St George Colegate (where his rather decadent tomb still stands), although I wonder how much of that was in hope that he would have a prosperous afterlife.

    This cheery little corpse dressed in rags in the painting is a reminder of mortality, that perhaps even the richest of people at that time could become very poor overnight. The artist isn’t known, but it was painted between 1600 and 1650 and placed in the Guildhall, another institution to which Jannys had donated a significant amount. There’s an inscription on the painting which reads “For all welth, worship and prosperite fierce death.”

    © The Trustees of the British Museum. Shared under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International (CC BY-NC-SA 4.0) licence.

    The British Museum have this print from 1845 in their collection, although he seems to have been given a thinner face here.

  • Norwich – Norwich Castle Museum (Medieval Wooden Statue of Bishop)

    Norwich – Norwich Castle Museum (Medieval Wooden Statue of Bishop)

    I’m easily intrigued and I really rather liked this wooden statue which is on display at the Gallery of Medieval Life at Norwich Castle Museum. The museum has focused on this as they wanted to show the mitre, the bishop’s headgear as they refer to it, something which had been a thing since around 1000. Interestingly, the mitre went away in the Church of England for several centuries in this country following the Reformation, it has only come back in the last 150 years.

    This rather decadent piece of carving is from St. Peter’s Church in Upwell and was added to the collections of Norfolk Museum Service in 1891. Quite what happened then I have no idea, but I assume that there was some Victorian restoration at the church. It’s a little bit too big to be a pew end carving, but I’m not sure where it was located in the church.