Tag: St. Cuthbert’s Way

  • St Cuthbert’s Way Trip – Day 3 (Summary – Part 1)

    St Cuthbert’s Way Trip – Day 3 (Summary – Part 1)

    St. Cuthbert’s Way – Resources and Index

    Before my engaged and excited readers get saddened that this is just a short post, that’s because I’m back in England and the phone signal has suddenly stopped, with the B&B having hopeless Internet. That means several shorter posts and we’ll see what happens… Today was the walk from Town Yetholm to Wooler, a distance of around 13 miles.

    It was a pleasant night at the Plough, it was good to get seven hours of uninterrupted sleep. The morning started with another cooked breakfast, although I’m starting to crave continental breakfasts now as these are quite stodgy. Good energy for the day though and the bacon was delicious. Gordon had caused confusion the night before with his fiddling about with the breakfast order, but fortunately the staff had worked it all out.

    This was Gordon at the breakfast table, where he kept asking for extra food items and then had a great idea to make himself a jam sandwich for lunch. Steve and I watched this little arrangement, but we were surprised to see Gordon then immediately gollop the sandwich down. He had forgotten that he was saving it for his lunch….. I didn’t say anything of course.

    One of the conversations at the breakfast table was about how Gordon looks a bit chubby in walking shirts. He was right though, they’re really not flattering, in his words, “the shirts don’t follow my well-toned six pack, they just hang”.

    I walked over to the village shop and noticed that they had numerous sandwiches, pastries and random items that wouldn’t fit into my bag without getting squished. So, I decided to just get the above for my lunch, all very squish proof. The packaging for the chocolate in the middle said that they were decadent, and they most certainly were.

    A little bridge in the village of Kirk Yetholm and just past this there was a sign to the gypsies who came here in the eighteenth century, some of the earliest to come to Scotland. Soon after this there was chat about standing stones, relating to a previous trip where Susanna had got muddled up. I heard her say to Andy, “all of your misdemeanours are remembered in this group”.

    The border collies had just jumped off the back ready for their day chasing sheep. They really are adorable dogs. Living in a city and being away a lot unfortunately makes having a border collie impossible. I’m hoping though that maybe Dylan and Leon want a selection of border collies and then my friend Liam can have them and I can take them out on walks occasionally (I meant the dogs, the children I take out on trains).

    At first this looks like a group shot, but click on this image and Susanna’s secret hobby is revealed…. She’s a real handful to control and without Bev, it’s been left to poor Steve to keep her under control.

    Gordon was brave and courageous on the hills, looking quite stoical and calm here.

    This is the English / Scottish border and the rest of the group were here for just over an hour and a half taking photos of each other excitedly. It’s almost as though they’ve never gone to a foreign country before…. I let them get on with it, preening themselves and getting each other in the best light. I walked ahead, I think as Sarah said that I was in a slight mood I was back in England and my Scottish holiday had come to an end.

    The real disaster that happened nearly the moment that we crossed the border though was that my mobile phone signal disappeared. This annoyed me greatly and for the first time in memory, I wanted to climb a hill in the hope of recovering my mobile signal. I ignored Steve when he said something about walking trips like this were about getting away from it all.

    It was at this point that Steve commented that Gordon was “dysfunctional” and we all agreed later on in the day that this was a fair comment. More on this quote throughout the week though no doubt.

    Walking across the fields, which was really what took up most of the day’s walking. It’s peaceful, although quite far from civilisation and there’s a lot to be said for civilisation….. The weather conditions were favourable, sometimes a bit hot and humid, but mostly OK. Although there were too many hills, some of which I think were substantial mountains. The Cheviots are quite beautiful and we again had a variety of terrain today.

    Two horses not talking to each other (or that’s what it looked like at the time).

    Crossing the bridge and someone came to us asking for directions to the waterfall. More on this separately as I need to extract some video…..

    You can see the legal training here, Gordon’s mind is alert and functional, ready to work out the best way across the swamp. He caused a pile-up soon after this when he nearly fell in the mud and held up those behind him. I didn’t say anything obviously, I’m being careful not to cause offence this week.

    And then it was lunch, something I had been hinting at and I was pleased to hear Steve was willing to deliver. We found what looked like a nice spot and I began to treat myself to my Irn-Bru and chocolates. I had to drink all of the Irn-Bru quickly as last time Gordon got most annoyed when I only let him have a third of my bottle to try and I was concerned that he’d be back for more.

    Anyway, I was sitting behind Gordon until I noticed a giant flock of large bulls charging towards us. I decided I had now finished my lunch and was ready to go. It’s fair to say that I moved quickly, efficiently and I had great clarity in my decision making process.

    The giant bull sizing Steve up ready to attack him. I was conscious here that they might encircle us, although the others hadn’t thought of that danger. It’s really quite a good job that I’m at these events.

    I thought that I should mention the situation to Steve as he was close to the danger zone and was without any shoes on. I wasn’t too concerned about Gordon.

    Steve wasn’t though as concerned as I was and seemed to want make friends with the damn thing. I will admit that I wasn’t entirely happy about this situation, but at least they didn’t have their calves with them, but that little treat was yet to come. We also had Gordon walking around sounding like a cow and his drinking flask clatters into the metal on his bag. A few people have complained about this to him, but, fortunately, I haven’t got involved.

    The next instalment is coming soon, assuming that I can get enough signal to complete my little summary of day three in the wilds of the north. And this next instalment contains details of Susanna’s latest little debacle. I will say that it’s certainly put the taxi situation into perspective.

  • St Cuthbert’s Way Trip – Day 2 (Summary)

    St Cuthbert’s Way Trip – Day 2 (Summary)

    St. Cuthbert’s Way – Resources and Index

    And here we are on day two of our little walking adventure, along the pilgrimage route of St.Cuthbert’s Way. Today we were walking the thirteen mile stretch from Jedburgh to Kirk Yetholm.

    Steve, Gordon and I were in the same location which is quite a modern building with a very over-stated breakfast room. It’s a bold theme, but it did perhaps suit Gordon quite well. I thought he looked like the lord of the manor sitting there.

    It was another substantial breakfast, probably more than I needed, but still very welcome. All nicely cooked and we were making good time due to the decision to get a taxi.

    We had all agreed to meet outside the B&Bs to get the taxi that Susanna had kindly booked for us. Well, and I’ve been given very careful instructions on how to tell this story as there is some dispute about it. Susanna says it’s a more nuanced story, but in essence, Susanna had managed not to book us a taxi. Gordon questioned her sanity and she used a very rude word indeed back to him (she used it twice). I, of course, stayed out of this debacle. And, a debacle it certainly was, but, fortunately, Susanna’s B&B owner managed to save the day and a taxi was swiftly despatched to save her blushes.

    And here’s the taxi safely dropping us off at the start of the walk. The reason for this is that St. Cuthbert’s Way is three miles away from where we were staying in Jedburgh and no-one else could be bothered to walk. And if they weren’t walking, neither was I. The driver was pleasant, although there was some tension in the car when Steve said “and this is exactly why Susanna doesn’t organise trips”.

    When we were having breakfast it was pouring with rain, so I spent some time trying to waterproof my bag. I also ceased to be self-supported, as Gordon kindly offered to let me put my computer power lead in his bag that the sherpas move on for him. I was very grateful for that, so I’m being extra kind about him on this post. It didn’t actually rain much during the day, or at least, not until we were nearly at our accommodation.

    The start of day two on the trial itself. Susanna was a bit sensitive about the taxi situation at this point (we know this because she told us that she was annoyed), but Gordon reassured her that she mustn’t blame herself. He can be very kind can Gordon, very inclusive.

    Signage for the Borders Abbeys Way and St. Cuthbert’s Way. The Borders Abbeys Way is a circular 65 mile long distance path which takes in four twelfth century abbeys and numerous border towns. It sounds a rather lovely path and although it goes from Melrose to Jedburgh, it’s along a different route to the one we were walking. A quick advert for the LDWA page for this long distance trail….

    This is a continuation of Dere Street, the former Roman road, that we had been walking on the day before.

    At this point we turned off for a walk in a forest area. I love these woodland trails, usually flat and easy to walk along. Gordon made some noises when he nearly slipped over, but we carefully looked after him and his needs. We considered the taxi issue over now, as it’s ridiculous to go on about it, but it was at this point that when Susanna wasn’t looking we agreed not to let her book the taxi again this week.

    A rather pointless gate since it was easy to walk around it…..

    Then we went through a field of cows, which were actually quite tame looking (even the one with the huge horns). Gordon told Sarah not to do one of her screechy laughs, which I thought was very rude, but he said that he was worried the cows might charge. We noticed at this point that Susanna was right at the back, but we agreed that it was best for her to tackle the cows alone rather than us scaring them by going back.

    More lovely forest walk and this was a really pleasant meander, keeping me nice and cool. There were other more exposed areas where I was too hot, as it’s a bit humid at the moment.

    Susanna found herself a stick and I thought that she looked like Boudicca strolling through the fields on a mission.

    At this point we met a great guy called Craig, who we also walked with a bit later on during the day. He’s doing the same walk as we are, but it’s unsupported and he’s camping whilst carrying everything. He’s an interesting person who I thought was very brave, since he told me that his bag weighted 18kgs. I told him that I walked the 100 a few weeks ago, as I think there are still some people who don’t know, and he agreed that I was very brave too.

    Cessford Castle, which was originally constructed in around 1450 under the supervision of Andrew Ker. It was built as a substantial structure with walls that were up to four metres thick in places, but it was also attacked on numerous occasions given its location near to the English and Scottish borders. It was repaired on several occasions, but it was eventually given up on in the early seventeenth century as it was too hard to defend.

    Nothing stops you going inside to the inner courtyard of the castle structure, but there are signs saying it’s dangerous and I didn’t want a big bit of stone to fall on my head. I limited myself to just peering in and taking a photograph of the former entrance into the castle. It’s an interesting quirk of history that there isn’t a larger settlement here today that was built up when the castle was in use, but many of the properties were demolished in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries.

    We had been hearing from Gordon that his little toe was a bit sore, so we suggested he had a little look at it. I heard lots of painful remarks as I think that his toe was slightly red, but he seemed to be very brave about his situation (that’s what he claimed anyway). He then managed to break a bit of the castle, but any complaints about that need to be sent to Steve.

    And then it was back onto the road and the path followed this all the way into the village of Morebattle. As an aside, this village doesn’t take its name from the battles that took place nearby, but from an old word for ‘dwelling place by the lake’. Near to this village is the ‘lost loch’ of Linton Loch which was drained in the eighteenth century.

    I have no idea what’s in this field, but it was rather colourful.

    This was the quite quirky community cafe in Morebattle and I’ll write more about this in another post. But, Andy kindly bought everyone a drink, other than Gordon who shunned his generosity and bought his own. The wealthy can do that I suppose. The staff in the community cafe were friendly and helpful, although likely annoyed by Gordon who sent his drink back as “there aren’t enough sprinkles on top”. We didn’t say anything of course. Sarah’s order was delayed as she was “behind a man ordering a three course meal”, which transpired to be Gordon. I would like to point out here that Gordon bought me a bottle of water, so I was in a very good mood with him. The toilet situation here is also interesting, but more on that later.

    Fortunately, we didn’t have to walk across this ford.

    We then started our ascent into the Cheviots which are uplands (although they were mountains as far as I was concerned) which straddle the old Anglo-Scottish border. I didn’t enjoy this stretch of path, it was full of bloody insects (these were a bit more of a problem today) and the grass was a little high in places. On the bright side, we didn’t see any snakes, although I know that there are adders in the area (I looked it up).

    That’s Steve’s bag and it’s not really evident from the photo, but he had around 20 flies on his bag. Gordon had lathered himself in something he got from the Avon company, so the insects didn’t bother him as much.

    Some photos of our climb and it felt quite remote. We started to see more walkers than we’d seen on the previous day, not surprising given the beautiful walking terrain around here.

    Here’s our hero Gordon having a little sit down. Susanna was a trooper as always, steadily battling her way up the hill, we were all very impressed. I have to say that everyone was really brave, although we had to slow Sarah down as she often flew by and rushed off to the front.

    There were some beautiful views during the walk.

    Then we reached Wideopen Hill, which is sort of the mid-point of the walk and it’s also the highest point on St. Cuthbert’s Way standing at 368 metres. This is just a little lower than Mount Everest, or at least that’s what it felt like getting up to the damn thing.

    Some more photos of the scenery as it felt wrong not to include them. It was at this stage that Andy said that I was at the top of his bravery list this week for completing the 100 (have I mentioned that?) and he mentioned that Gordon was top of the whingeing list. This also put Andy right at the top of my list of favourite people this weeks, so he’ll be winning numerous awards. Some of the others muttered about this, but I ignored them, they were just jealous.

    We then dropped down into Town Yetholm, which is where our accommodation for the evening was located. We heard thunder at this point and that’s not really ideal, but the rain didn’t start to pour down until we were just a couple of minutes from our accommodation.

    We were also annoyed at a lady who came up to us and seemed to be a little rude, so we didn’t really engage as the thunder and rain was just starting and it didn’t seem an ideal time for a full-length conversation. She seemed quite standoffish and it wasn’t quite clear why she wanted to talk to us, unless she wanted an argument, but she said that she was local. Sarah and Susanna said that she said that Gordon had annoyed her, but on this, I’m going to stand by Gordon, he was a paragon of virtue. Otherwise, the locals are all really quite lovely. BTW, technically Gordon is quite annoying, but she didn’t know that from the conversation, so she annoyed me.

    We checked into the Plough and there was a friendly welcome. They took the breakfast order after check-in and we had to listen to Gordon trying to buy another egg again. We didn’t say anything, it felt inappropriate to. Above is a photo of my rather lovely room, with Gordon and Steve staying in the same hotel and they had equally plush rooms. Sarah said that she had a balcony at her hotel, which I was a little jealous of. Although since it’s cold and raining, I’m not sure that I would have gone out onto a balcony if I did have one. Anyway, I digress.

    We walked into the neighbouring village of Kirk Yetholm for our evening meal. We walk into this again on the trail tomorrow as it forms part of St Cuthbert’s Way.

    We were eating at the Border Hotel, which is best known for being the end point of the Pennine Way. We were at the start point of this a few weeks ago, in Edale. That means we’ve managed to visit the two pubs at either ends of the walk, although just haven’t bothered to do the actual Pennine Way walk. But I saw the videos of Dave Morgan doing it and it looked very moist and hilly.

    Gordon then caused a scene in the pub by asking for green beans, which aren’t on the menu. He’s a man who needs vegetables and so he decided to order a dish without vegetables when they told him they had no green beans (we think he was trying to teach the pub a lesson). He’s very picky, but we didn’t say anything….

    The table decoration, which I’m not sure I entirely like. Anyway, the pub must like it and that’s the main thing. During the conversation, Gordon revealed that “I don’t really have any unlucky pants” which was a relief to everyone. It was also commented that Gordon might win the “creep of the week” award with his comments about what Sarah was wearing. But it’s OK, he won’t read this blog for ages, so it’s fine for me to write that.

    The pub had a few real ales on, although nothing overly exciting for my taste, but at least there was a choice. I noted that they’re using Good Beer Guide signage, but they’re no longer listed in the latest book. I like that anyone who completes the Pennine Way gets a free half pint of beer, which is a nice gesture. I bought half a pint of the Pennine Walker from Hadrian Border Brewery (I think, there was some confusion as to what it actually was) and the Trig Point from Cheviot Brewery. I preferred the latter and it’s sourced locally, although neither beer hugely engaged me. But they were refreshing and well-kept, so went well with the meal. Along with the eight gallons of tap water I must have gone through.

    All day I had fancied pie at the pub, but the only one they had was pork, cider and mustard and that didn’t appeal, so I went with the fish and chips. Reasonably priced, the fish itself was lovely, although the batter was too doughy if I’m being a little bit critical (which I always am to be fair). More importantly, to the right of the photo is Gordon’s plate without his vegetables. The service was always polite, pro-active and personable though, so it was a pleasant and comfortable place to be. They also warned us that there would be a delay with our food as another couple of large parties had just arrived (we got behind them because Gordon spent twenty minutes asking about bloody vegetables) but ultimately the delay was minimal.

    We then walked back to our accommodation, all told another very lovely day. It’s nice to have a couple of hours to get this blog written up, which can be something of a burden to write, but there has to be an official record of this week otherwise the truth might be lost to history. Tomorrow we’re off to Wooler which is no further distance than today, but it might be just that bit hillier. That doesn’t overly excite me to be fair….

  • St Cuthbert’s Way Trip – Day 1 (Jedburgh Rock of Ages)

    St Cuthbert’s Way Trip – Day 1 (Jedburgh Rock of Ages)

    St. Cuthbert’s Way – Resources and Index

    This intriguing object is the town’s Christian high cross which quite amazingly (well, amazingly to me) dates to the Anglo-Saxon period, with an estimated age of 1,300 years. As another one of my irrelevant asides, I’m slightly puzzled as to why this is still outside, I’d have moved it inside to protect it. It once stood in the Bongate area of the town and it was treated with such enormous respect that in the early nineteenth century it was found by an antiquarian being used as part of the Bongate Toll turnpike.

    In the 1850s it was placed in the town’s main square, then moved to Hartrigge House and then in 1955 it was offered by Lord Stratheden to the burgh. This was accepted and the stone was then moved to its current location which is Mary Queen of Scots’ House.

    Those holes on the south face are from when the stone was used on the turnpike to support the gate. The nearby information sign about this stone notes that “on this face there would have been two animals standing back to back with their heads facing backwards”.

    The west face, “showing animals with long necks and straight legs”.

    The north face, showing “two animals standing neck to neck”.

    This is the east face and has suffered the most damage, with another turnpike related hole visible. Apparently “it shows a backward-looking animals set in the branching vine”.

    I remain fascinated that this stone has survived for so many centuries, albeit in its weather beaten state. I hope that they can secure its long-term future, as it is still in an exposed place. Full credit though for the interesting information board nearby, otherwise it’s fair to say that I wouldn’t have a clue what it was.

  • St Cuthbert’s Way Trip – Day 1 (Summary)

    St Cuthbert’s Way Trip – Day 1 (Summary)

    St. Cuthbert’s Way – Resources and Index

    This will have to be short and sweet, otherwise it’ll never be done. I’ll have to come back later to fill in the details about the history, I can’t be missing out history……

    This was the first day of the walking expedition, 19 miles from Melrose to Jedburgh. Before I begin, I have to say that Steve and I are clearly the bravest, carrying our bags with us rather than paying for sherpas to take them from location to location. I’m also away for a while, so my bag is ludicrously heavy and that pre-annoyed me before we even starting walking. Bear in mind then that whilst the others were having an easy time, Steve and I (especially me) were having a much harder walk. But I didn’t like the mention that to the others, I didn’t want to lessen their efforts. Motivation is the key.

    Sarah and Andy had the rather lovely idea of bringing their own version of Bev along, a rock with her name on it. We all agreed this was a much less stressful version of Bev to have coming along. She got quite emotional about this act of kindness, which meant that Sarah and Andy were in her good books. I attacked Gordon with a stick later on during the morning, so I was also in her good books.

    The Scottish breakfast (or the full English as Gordon tried to order) with the haggis and black pudding being surprisingly nice. The egg was hard, but Gordon said to the waitress “can I pay for another egg?” and got one, so I also went for a replacement one. That one was perfect. It must be lovely to be so wealthy to be able to pay for extra eggs at every turn (the hotel didn’t charge for an extra egg). It was certainly a very filling start to the day.

    Whilst mentioning Gordon, his order got a bit forgotten. Susanna mentioned that “they can’t see you with your rimless glasses on” and we agreed that actually, perhaps these did make him look a little invisible. Either way or he had just annoyed the waitress.

    Andy and Sarah were luxuriating in their room, whilst the rest of us waited patiently before we set off. The start of St. Cuthbert’s Way is in a slightly strange place, but we had already reccied that the night before, so we were ready. Gordon complained he was a bit tired, but we ignored him.

    The start of the walk was up lots of steps and, frankly, it involved walking up a hill that was far too big.

    This is the signage for the trail that we’ve been following.

    This was as high as Beeston Bump and was very hilly, although it offered lovely views back down into Melrose. We were doing well at this stage, until we managed to get lost. Steve noticed that the path seemed to be disappearing away quite quickly as we were walking along what was becoming more obviously a cliff edge. Fortunately, it wasn’t too difficult to retrace our steps. Four different people got blamed for the mistake, but it was ultimately agreed that Gordon was to blame.

    I was going to censor this photo, but then I remembered that Bev told me not to do things like that. I don’t think that I’ll be explaining what was going on here though. Individuals can use their own imagination.

    Gordon has Bev on this leg here (the stone, not the real one) and he said something like “give me strength”.

    Bowden Pant Well, one of only two of these structures remaining in Scotland.

    Bowden Kirk which Gordon tried very hard to get into, but it was very firmly locked. It was only a few minutes walk to get there off the trail and well worth it, even though we couldn’t get in.

    I like the “free range children” sign, it reminded me of Liam’s perfect boys.

    There was no shortage of forest walking today, which gave us some shade, although it wasn’t overly sunny. It was though still too hot, all being quite humid. I mentioned several times during the day that I was too hot.

    I didn’t notice the heron until Andy pointed it out. It was really lovely to walk along the river though, it all felt quite remote and we did feel like we were properly away from things. On the very bright side inside, the phone signal around here is excellent, indeed, it’s better than I get in the centre of Norwich. I don’t like being away from things if that means I have no phone signal.

    Some tree roots along the Tweed, adding some character to the path.

    This was the moment that Gordon was about to sit down to enjoy his ice cream in the little town of St Boswells. It was also the moment that Steve said “right, time to go”. That annoyed Gordon, but I’m not going to grass him up to Steve (although Gordon said some very rude things). We managed to get a few more supplies in a small shop, after Gordon tried to break into the toilets after discovering they were 30p (he could afford the 30p, just he didn’t have 30p on him, but then again, the wealthy never do carry lots of money).

    The winding path continues….

    A bridge, the name of which I’ve forgotten. Before anyone complains, I’ll work out later on what bridge it was…..

    I had to climb up these. The trial itself is in a very good state of repair, the steps are all in solid condition and the signage is excellent.

    I had bought lunch at the Co-op in the morning, but was never really hungry with my large breakfast. That meant I was carrying around food all day and was more relieved than anything just to take the weight out of my bag and to feel that there was more space in it.

    If you come to Scotland, it’s important to have the local drink. I am a fan of Irn-Bru, it was a delight to have this available to me. I’m sure they’ve reduced the amount of sugar in it though which is always a disappointment.

    Gordon paid for a room for two on his first night and decided he’d get excellent value for money. Here we are with evidence of that, he had taken the bag from the hotel room’s bin to use to keep his backpack dry. Although it was commented on that he looked an idiot, it can’t be denied that his strategy worked well and his bag remained dry throughout. We were secretly quite impressed at the whole arrangement.

    This is inside a cave near Benrig House where they had installed a pump powered by a mule to get water from the river up to where they needed it, saving on a maid having to carry the water up in buckets. The poor mule though…..

    What appears to be a former railway bench in Maxton.

    Maxton Kirk and there’s been a church at this location for over 1,000 years.

    This started the long stretch of walking along the old Roman road called Dere Street and I was endlessly excited about the history of this. It was constructed around 80AD and the line of the road is still clear in many places. Further back it is part of the current road, meaning its route is still in use nearly 2,000 years later.

    The road and near to this point Susanna said “I expect Gordon was quite sexy in his youth”. He was a little annoyed at this, it wasn’t quite the compliment that he wanted. He also asked people later on though if he had quite a feminine gait and he was annoyed when we told him that he did, as if we were meant to lie.

    Possibly a milestone, but located by the Roman road. It was around here that it started to rain, but nothing too hard and it was a least a little cooling. As it was too hot.

    The Lilliot Cross, where legend says a woman fought bravely in the Battle of Ancrum.

    The line of the former Roman road and off to the left we saw the Waterloo Monument (I got a photo of it in the background, but I’ll find a better one on-line and write about that separately).

    More trees. I don’t know what type of tree they are and I’m not sure it matters. Unless you’re a tree surgeon or something.

    We put Bev on the nature trail.

    The wobbly bridge, where some people scared Gordon by shaking it. He accused them of being childish.

    We reach the main road not far from the turning into Jedburgh and have to climb over the road’s safety barrier.

    Gordon was in a grumpy mood at this point and really, if I’m being honest, complaining far too much. We told him to cheer up, and here he is being cheered up. The walk did seem to drag at the end to be fair, it’s a three mile walk into Jedburgh (pronounced Jeddart by the locals) after we left the trail. We’re getting a taxi back to the start of the trail on day two (not my idea, but the others are doing it and I don’t want them to be lonely).

    My room for the evening. We were pleased to be in the accommodation where it’s clean and dry, which only has three rooms, so it’s Steve, Gordon and myself in this little B&B.

    I was surprised to get four takers for my exciting history walk around Jedburgh before the evening meal, the highlight was the abbey. This is a border town where there used to be many conflicts between the English and the Scottish, with this abbey being attacked and burned on several occasions.

    The remains of a friary in Jedburgh.

    Mary Queen of Scots House. More posts to come about the history of this borders town, this will just have to do for the moment.

    Belter’s Bar in Jedburgh, with the beers all being from Marston’s Brewery. I decided not to even bother and went for Pepsi. This was where we’d pre-booked for our evening meal. I was pleased that they weren’t showing the football, although somehow I was the person tasked with telling everyone what the score was.

    The pub didn’t look much from the outside, but the welcome was authentic and the food was excellent. The waitress told us that she had seen an otter earlier on in the day, which was genuinely interesting, but then Gordon interjected with a really boring story about a beaver that had no relevance to anything. But the waitress was no doubt pleased to hear “let me tell you my beaver story”.

    What we hadn’t realised whilst sitting in the pub is that it was now raining very heavily, which led to a rather moist walk (and indeed run) back to the accommodation. We forgot Susanna, although Steve rushed back for her, although Gordon and I thought she’d be fine on her own. It’s quite hard to stay adult though with Susanna saying things like “when we get back to mine I’ll show you my driveway” to Gordon.

    And that concluded Day One. I will come back with more posts to fill in the gaps…..

  • St Cuthbert’s Way Trip – Day 0 (Evening Meal)

    St Cuthbert’s Way Trip – Day 0 (Evening Meal)

    St. Cuthbert’s Way – Resources and Index

    Before I start writing this, I accept that it’s quite tame content, but it has gotten going quite a bit today (I’m writing this after finishing the first day’s walk) so bear with me!

    I decided to lead Steve, Gordon and Susanna on a little meander around Melrose, including walking by the abbey and over the chain bridge that I’d visited earlier in the day. Susanna is fascinated by history, Steve likes to see the local area and Gordon likes to complain about something. It’s all quite charming really when this little group gets together. We also took the opportunity to see where our St Cuthbert’s Way walk would be starting from as it wasn’t entirely clear to us.

    The evening meal was where we were all staying, at Burts hotel. I hadn’t quite worked out what beers they had earlier, but I can now reveal (as if anyone’s interested….) that they were Pale Armadillo from Tempest Brewing, Foxy Blonde from Born in the Borders Brewery and Landlord from Timothy Taylor’s. Nothing particularly exciting for me to be honest, but at least there was a choice being offered.

    I tried two more of the beers, as I’d had the Timothy Taylor’s Landlord before we went for the evening meal. Temperature was fine and they were well-kept, with the blonde beer being not too bad.

    For anyone interested (I’m not sure who if I’m being honest) the menu. The prices were a little punchy, but the pub was well staffed and so I imagine their overheads are quite high.

    I won’t go full food review, but the fish and chips was fine, although the peas were coated in butter or something similar to an excessive degree and the underside of the batter was moist. But I was delighted to see a big pot of tartare sauce and so I was entirely appeased. Service was attentive and the environment was fine, so all sufficiently lovely. The portion size was big and the haddock itself was tender and had a pleasant taste, so I was pleased.

    The conversation at the table was excessive in nature I thought (by that I mean on reflection I can’t use nearly all of the quotes I had carefully wrote down), but that happens when Gordon gets going. He gave his thoughts on the ladies and looked quite displeased when Susanna mentioned his habits with women were perhaps not always as they should be. Is that saying too much? It probably is a bit much for this blog though, veering on the complaints territory from Gordon. I would say though that Gordon said “the problem is that she gave me a beetroot”. I urge everyone from Hike Norfolk to listen to this beetroot story. The things Gordon can do with a beetroot are quite amazing.

    Private conversation must be kept private of course, although I would mention that Gordon did say “four bedrooms is not a big house”, which I thought was quite decadent of him.

    And with that, the day came to a close, quite a long day for everyone to get to the same place, but it all went well with no disasters. We knew that breakfast started at 08:00, so it was a relatively early start as we had to pick up a lunch for the day as well. I’d now better start writing up day one of the walk, otherwise I’ll get permanently behind…..

  • St Cuthbert’s Way Trip – Day 0 (Meeting Up)

    St Cuthbert’s Way Trip – Day 0 (Meeting Up)

    St. Cuthbert’s Way – Resources and Index

    Before I start this post, I don’t claim this to be particularly engaging stuff yet, I just have to set the scene of what I have to deal with this week….. And to keep Bev informed of how things progress since she can’t be with us in person (although Sarah has painted her name on a rock and brought that instead, which is probably a concept we could use with other people in the future).

    Here we are then on the afternoon of Friday, the day before starting to walk St. Cuthbert’s Way, with the final three brave walkers coming to join us. The initial plan was they were going to get a bus or taxi from Tweedbank to Melrose as they had brought too much luggage to carry with them (other than Steve, who packed very professionally rather than bringing enough for a cruise trip). Then, their plan is savagely foiled as the bus has just left and the taxi would take over 30 minutes. I find it very decadent that they even considered a taxi, but then again, Gordon has got the means so I suppose he has a different mindset.

    So they decided to walk. And, as the most responsible person in the group (and I am unanimous in that), I thought that I’d walk back from the hotel to meet them to ensure that they received a friendly welcome into Melrose and also to make sure that I got any gossip first before Sarah and Andy heard it. I suggested to Steve, Susanna and Gordon that one of them put their live location on WhatsApp, so that I could see where they were going (experience tells me it’s just easier and avoids anyone going missing). Sarah and Andy helpfully put their live location on, so that I was reassured that they were still at the hotel. But that didn’t entirely assist me. The technology was too much for these group of warriors (and to be fair I told them to click on the paper clip icon, forgetting they didn’t have Android phones which are the only ones that have that), so I set off anyway along the river.

    Steve sent this shot, showing they were walking down the main road and not along the river path. I had satisfied myself that the river path was entirely fine for wheeled bags, but Susanna has I think some very precious things and didn’t want to take a chance. Gordon at that stage, I’m reliably informed, was just huffing and puffing after walking 100 metres. I did ponder whether I could get Bear Grylls to do a television show with Gordon and Susanna…..

    Views of the river walk that I enjoyed going back.

    Finally, the technologically savvy Steve gets live location working after searching on Google how to do it (he’s very good at resolving things like this, very persistent and calm), as does Susanna. Gordon didn’t bother as I think he was at this stage ready to be abandoned by the roadside as he was now nearly one mile into the walk. It was though then clear from the map that I was further away from the hotel than they were at my little spot by the river, so I did a Challenge Anneka attempt (as Sarah put it) to go and find them.

    This is the view that the merry band of three opted for on their walk. Nice, you get a really good feel for the road surfaces they use in Scotland picking this route.

    I said what a gentleman Gordon was pulling Susanna’s bag. It transpired, I was told, that he just wanted to put his big blue bag on top and wheel it rather than carry his own. I didn’t say anything, I didn’t want to come across as rude.

    Here is the athlete, now carrying his own bag and not far from the hotel. A few minutes later, as Steve was checking in I couldn’t help but notice that Gordon just collapsed into the chair at reception completely exhausted. What a brave soldier we all thought…… At this point, Sarah and Andy appear at the hotel reception, ready to order gin and tonics. Also, there was some confusion at the hotel as Gordon had said that he had two people in his room, which had enough space for three people (I’ve got a small and cheap single room, whereas Gordon seems to have the penthouse floor), so there were some raised eyebrows about what was going on.

    But, all was well, and after some confusion about what beers there were at the pub (which I finally resolved later on by just having all of them) we sat in the beer garden and listened to how Gordon was furious at the loud people on the train. Quite rightly so and Gordon revealed that he had complained about the situation to Susanna as he didn’t like to complain directly to the train crew.

    Incidentally, the gin and tonics had been ordered by Sarah after checking via message what Susanna, Steve and Gordon wanted. Susanna and Steve selected their gin and tonic, whereas Gordon asked Susanna to ask Sarah saying “what has the pub got?” expecting a long list to be produced. I don’t think there was much engagement on that point, Gordon went for a gin and tonic and had another grumble.

    That’s that bit anyway and I accept that this story isn’t that engaging or riveting, but it’s a little reminder to myself that this adventure was now coming together.

  • St Cuthbert’s Way Trip – Day 0 (Afternoon Update)

    St Cuthbert’s Way Trip – Day 0 (Afternoon Update)

    St. Cuthbert’s Way – Resources and Index

    As day zero of this week of walking St. Cuthbert’s Way continues, we approached the afternoon. Sarah and Andy were in Melrose having alone time, as I think the hotel staff had said they could do what they wanted in their room. I didn’t ask. Gordon was now furious at the garage music being played in Carriage B of the train, Steve was listening to music in the quiet coach and Susanna was phoning her daughter in Carriage B. I was quite content as I had a beer.

    I was leaving Galashiels having popped into the Wetherspoons for the aforementioned beer, ready to get the train into Tweedbank. There’s some interesting stuff about this line, it’s a reinstated railway service now known as the Border Railway, but it was formerly known as the Waverley Line. The line was shut in 1969, but reopened again in 2015, although only as far as Tweedbank. It was never extended to Melrose, which seems a bizarre decision to me given that it’s a tourist town of some importance (and also as that’s where I wanted to go). But, at least something has opened here and what a lovely service it is.

    And here’s Tweedbank railway station, the end of the line.

    I decided to walk along the link path which connects Tweedbank to Melrose, which is a clearly marked river path by the Tweed which went through some scenic countryside.

    The photos above are all of the walk into Melrose, really quite a lovely little meander and just over 1.5 miles in length.

    I checked into my little room at Burt’s Hotel in Melrose, before heading out for a little explore around this historic market town. More on the hotel later as it’s also where our night’s meal was, as well as where Gordon came out with some quotes that I’ll write about later. As an aside, it’s now 23:00 in Melrose and there’s certainly a vibrant nightlife that I can hear from the hotel window. Indeed it’s very vibrant indeed, and I’m not entirely sure I mean that in a positive manner. Anyway, I like the sound of nightlife, so it won’t disturb or annoy me.

    These photos were taken at Priorwood Garden, which is now a National Trust for Scotland site (there was meant to be an admission charge, but they don’t seem to be collecting it and I’m a member of the National Trust anyway). They note that “the gardens have been part of the abbey estate, a kitchen garden for a grand house and a valuable market garden during the Second World War”. The house was lived in by James Curie, an archaeologist who also oversaw the excavations of the nearby Roman fort of Trimontium.

    Melrose Abbey is closed inside at the moment, but is a former Cistercian monastery which was the main religious house in Scotland until the Dissolution of the Monasteries. A lead container has been found which is said to be the embalmed heart of Robert the Bruce and numerous Scottish Kings are buried here.

    A sign of the times……

    This is Harmony Garden, also run by the National Trust for Scotland, with the house here having been constructed by Robert Waugh in 1807.

    I then walked down to the River Tweed and had a look at the listed structure that is the Melrose Chain Bridge. This was opened on 26 October 1826 by Redpath Brown & Co of Edinburgh and was restored in 1992. It also has the little problem at the moment that social distancing means that if anyone is on the bridge, then you have to wait for them to finish crossing. There was an elderly man who was walking slowly with a stick (a local I assume, not Gordon) which caused a little bit of a traffic jam at one end, but everyone remained friendly and patient.

    This is an interesting little structure, although not much is visible under that scaffolding. It’s an eighteenth century doocot (or dovecote) and over the years it hasn’t been well cared for, with some rickety old iron structures being placed against it. These are being fixed and the building restored under the supervision of Historic Scotland.

    But, it was at this point as I got back to the hotel that the main event started to unfold. Steve, Gordon, Susanna and Susanna’s baggage had reached Tweedbank. Finally, the six of us were nearly in one place and there had been no delays with the rail service. But then there was the challenge of meeting up…..

  • St Cuthbert’s Way Trip – Day 0 (Lunch-Time Update)

    St Cuthbert’s Way Trip – Day 0 (Lunch-Time Update)

    St. Cuthbert’s Way – Resources and Index

    Apologies for those who have little interest in this exciting trip that six of us are on, but my blog rarely has riveting content, so I’m sure readers can just ignore the irrelevant bits. I’ve discovered that Sarah and Andy have flown up to Edinburgh, whereas Susanna, Gordon and Steve are getting the train from Norfolk. Above is Gordon and Steve, note that he’s on his bloody phone again. You take him out and he sits and messages people, it’s all very anti-social. Steve didn’t say anything about it, he’s very tolerant.

    Susanna arrived on the train in Attleborough to meet up with Steve, although Gordon was still on his phone apparently so didn’t notice. Susanna had 23 bags with her, but like a gentleman, Steve offered to help her.

    Whereas I’m getting the train from Edinburgh, and this is the lunch-time train to Tweedbank. I wondered whether I’d meet Andy and Sarah on the platform, but they managed to jump off the inbound train. I’m not quite sure how they managed to do that, but a very lovely surprise. They then got off the inbound train back onto the same train to go outbound. I didn’t ask what on earth they were doing.

    Here are Andy and Sarah on the train and we had a good gossip about Gordon, my 100 (have I mentioned I walked 100 miles?) and numerous other things.

    Here I am with my Pret peppermint tea which I’m hoping will calm my nerves before Gordon arrives. The excitement was starting to mount with half the group now nearly at the start point of Melrose and as Alan Partridge would say “it’s all happening now”. Then some exciting news came in from Gordon about Carriage B on his train from Peterborough to Edinburgh. He noted “f****** awful – jungle beat music playing, might have to move carriage”. Seems like there’s a raucous traveller in Carriage B playing music and annoying him and Susanna, but it’s fortunate that Steve is in Carriage A. It’s important that the walk leader is well rested.

    Andy and Sarah got off at Tweedbank and got the bus to Melrose, as for reasons unknown Andy wants a haircut (even though his hair is already short) and I’ve got off at Galashiels (the photo above is of the river – I think the Gala Water – running through the town) as there’s a Wetherspoons in the Good Beer Guide that I wanted to visit. I’m getting back on the train soon and will then be getting off at Tweedbank and walking to the hotel in Melrose. Andy and Sarah got the bus as they’re lazy.

    So, that’s the little update for the moment, we shall see what develops when the three travellers from the south finally get here later today.

  • St Cuthbert’s Way Trip – Day 0 (Introduction)

    St Cuthbert’s Way Trip – Day 0 (Introduction)

    St. Cuthbert’s Way – Resources and Index

    Later today (Friday) a group of us will be gathering to walk St. Cuthbert’s Way, a long distance path (here’s the LDWA web-page about it) which goes from Melrose in Scotland to Lindisfarne in England. The walk is 62.5 miles and we seem to be taking a week to walk it. Yes, that isn’t a typing error, we’re taking a week to walk this (I did wonder why we can’t walk it in one go). I have to remember that some of the group are quite elderly though and can’t rush along it. And it’s sometimes nice to walk very slowly and enjoy the surroundings of our 8 miles in one day.

    I have permission to blog this trip in some detail. By permission, Bev has told me that I can, and indeed, I must. She can no longer come on this trip due to extenuating circumstances, so she’ll just be interfering from afar. This means that we have the following people going along:

    Sarah and Andy – Sarah is a stalwart of walking trips, and Andy is coming along to support here. I have to be polite about Andy as I don’t really know him yet.

    Gordon – I’ve been told not to mention Gordon’s considerable wealth, so I will just note here that he’s on an above average pension. He is very energetic at social events, or at least the ones he turns up to. He is also the most likely to employ legal counsel to start any libel claims, so I will be very careful in what I write. There was confusion when someone thought that Gordon was 74, but he isn’t, he’s 66, he just acts a bit older than his years.

    Steve – The most photogenic member of the group and one of the best drivers I know. Although that’s a bit irrelevant as he’s not driving on this trip. Steve is leading the trip and taking responsibility for any little disasters along the route.

    Susanna – Aged just under 50, Susanna is smooth, subtle and I can’t say she’s got more energy than Bev (not after I mentioned that before anyway).

    Julian – Well, that’s me. The group’s official blogger, photographer and fact taker about anything that goes on. Bev has mentioned that what happens on the trip should stay on the blog, so that’s that sorted (and it might be good for readership numbers).

    Anyway, we’re all in different places at the moment. I’m already in Edinburgh, whereas Gordon, Steve and Susanna are getting the train up together from Norwich today. I have no idea where Sarah and Andy are, I’ve got so muddled up about that situation that I daren’t ask now. I was going to meet them in Edinburgh later today and get the train to Tweedbank before walking the 1.5 miles to the hotel. However, Susanna has a bloody great wheelie bag and Gordon is infirm, so they need to get public transport as they can’t carry their excessive luggage (I think Gordon is carrying some of his money **). They’re paying people to move their bags for them (as in an official company, not Steve or I).

    Privately, it comes to something where they have to get a taxi or bus to the start of a walking holiday as they can’t walk 1.5 miles, but I didn’t say anything. Steve is doing the sensible thing, and not bringing 18 changes of outfit to carry along with him. Along with me, he’s the tough one of the group so far.

    I’ve got the Cicerone Book for this route on my phone, written by Rudolf Abraham. Normally I then promptly don’t bother to read any of it during the week, but this time I’ll try and read some of it to get some extra bits of history. But, the real focus of this blog is to surprise and delight my readership about what the group are getting up to. Luckily, I guess only Steve and Bev will read it, so I can write what I like.

    ** – Can I just note that Gordon might not be carrying money, so any criminals reading this, please don’t mug him en route to the start of the walk.