Next on our list of places to visit was Metelkova, now something of a squat as well as being an artistic centre that has an unusual recent history. It was originally an Austro-Hungarian military barracks constructed in 1882, but when the Yugoslavian army withdrew in the early 1990s, it was unclear in the unfolding chaos what was happening with these buildings.
Before the authorities could work out what future the buildings should have, they were taken over by a squat which by 1993 was declared as a self-declared autonomous cultural zone. By this point, it was going to be hard to get people to move out and they had some sympathy from the wider community so there wasn’t the political will to change things.
Today, the result is really quite distinctive and intriguing. The former barracks are covered in a variety of mosaics, murals and sculptures, with new artworks being added as the community evolves. There’s a dichotomy here, there’s this free and untethered community which has also become a tourist zone where people come to take photos. There are some signs that say don’t take photos of the locals, that seems to be the compromise.
The area is lively, although I didn’t feel entirely at ease here as it wasn’t quite clear what the set-up actually was. Apparently at night there’s a variety of clubs and bars which open up, with a variety of music being played. It’s perhaps all just a bit raucous for me, but Bev loved it and I think that she was tempted to move in.
It’s not an ordered area full of straight lines and new upmarket apartments, but it is something different and quirky. There were more tourists visible than locals when we visited, but the community co-exists with the museums, residents and businesses located near to it. It’s been the heart of the alternative scene in Ljubljana for thirty years, with a focus on protecting minorities and people who might be seen as ‘different’, with its future seemingly secure.
Anyway, here are my photos….
