Category: Suffolk

I’m going to be honest, this bar isn’t likely to win many awards for being the best advertised and signed, although that gives it something of a speakeasy feel which adds to the excitement of proceedings. Although this was the eleventh and final venue of the day, it was the one that we were most looking forwards to, it’s a cellar bar with micro-pub vibes. I decided that Julian was the most social (and ultimately the most expendable if it was the wrong door) and he tried the door of what we really weren’t entirely sure was the right place, but it’s that door marked with “cash only” which is down the steps.

The indoor signage is really rather good though even if it’s rather more anonymous from the outside.

The inside which was a little dark, but that added to the atmosphere and the welcome was immediate and friendly from the team member. It was also good to see James in the pub, it was his check-ins on Untappd which had caught my eye about this place. This is evidence indeed that social media can lead to right decisions.

The beer list is on Untappd and there’s a particularly strong list of cans that are available. There are three cask beers and seven keg beers and I was slightly disappointed we didn’t have enough time before our train to fully investigate these. It’s a well-curated beer list and there are some really tempting options on there.

I went for the Aeronaut from Abbeydale Brewery and it had a rather pleasant flavour of stone fruit and it was smooth, rich and really quite decadent. A very decent little number and Julian went for the same, noting on Untappd that it was “very tasty”, which is great praise indeed.

Also, Julian produced, like a proud Victorian inventor, his latest acquisition from John Lewis, as he’s really rather middle class, a foldable fan which can be charged via USB. I was a little tempted by it, I’ll wait until there’s a cheap one though as I get muddled up in decadent department stores, but it was very useful given the extreme heat of Lowestoft.

Anyway, I’ve digressed into shopping related items and away from just how good this bar is. The beer selection here was the best of the day, the atmosphere was certainly up there and the engagement from the team member was the best of the day. It’s fair to say that I very much liked it here and I’m also going to see if Julian can be tempted to go there again when we visit again for part two of our Lowestoft study tour. It was really all rather lovely.

The Oxford Arms was our tenth visit of the day to a venue selling alcoholic beverages and I can already hear my two loyal blog readers bemused to where eight and nine have gone. So, eight was the Lowestoft Tandoori and I’ll come back to that in another post as it’s not really a pub, with number nine being the Falcon. Unfortunately, I was in some sort of food coma by then due to the portion sizes at the Indian, so I sat in the garden with a rum, which was Julian’s bright idea to ‘settle my nerves’, meaning I didn’t really look around inside. To be fair to the Falcon, and we are rigorous in our study tours, we’ll revisit it on the next trip.

The pub was built in the late nineteenth century and it was formerly known as the Oxford Stores and I’m starting to wonder if there’s a single pub in Lowestoft that hasn’t changed its name at some point. The above map is from the 1880s and it shows that at the time the area was fields, the pub is in the centre-right of this white space. The pub was built by Youngman & Preston and there was an application made in September 1897 to change the licence from George Henry Read to James Charles Butcher, so I’m guessing that the pub first opened in around 1890. Tragedy struck just weeks later as the Evening Star reported:

“On Sunday evening Mr. James Butcher, landlord of the Oxford Stores, at the corner of St. Margaret’s and Oxford Roads, Lowestoft, died suddenly. The deceased, who was married, and about 33 years of age, was well known and popular. He formerly kept the Waggon and Horses, on the Beach, and on the licence of the High Street house being removed during the widening of that thoroughfare, he went to the new house. The cause of death was an affection of the brain, from which he suffered during the summer, but apparently recovered. He was taken ill on Wednesday night, and though attended by Dr. Bell, the seizure terminated fatally.”

All rather sad, especially as in 1911, the landlord William Butcher died at the pub aged just 39 years old and William’s wife had died at the venue the year before. They don’t sound like the most uplifting first few years of opening.

Julian came here over fifty years ago, which is quite a sobering thought. Today, the venue shows live sports and there are some occasional music events to excite and delight the local denizens.

Inside the pub, there’s a pool table and general games area. As an Everton fan (I say fan, that is a rather aspirational way of saying that I sort of look at the league tables every week) I’ve mentally blocked out something in the photo.

The main bar and my legs.

I mentioned sobering thoughts earlier on in this post and that’s evident here, with Julian opting for a delicious lemonade. Or at least until he realised these things no longer have sugar, just a heap of aspartame which I personally think is likely potentially more dangerous than the sugar that the authorities have obsessively removed, but there we go. There weren’t any real ales here and the drinks selection was quite limited, which was the main reason for Julian’s less than decadent choice.

I wasn’t having sobering thoughts, I had half a pint of Guinness and it tasted as expected and was at the appropriate temperature.

There’s a breakfast menu and the venue also sells food at lunchtimes.

This is a good idea in the toilets given the ridiculously hot weather that we’ve been having recently.

Overall, this felt like a traditional community pub and it offered a friendly welcome and some minor interest from locals on who these new customers were when we entered. The service was efficient, the venue was clean and I rather liked the heritage of the pub, although the separate rooms of the lounge bar and the saloon that once existed have all been knocked through. The drinks selection here isn’t really something that I’m personally looking for, although Guinness is always a decent fall-back arrangement, but the pricing was low. The online reviews are very positive and I’m fairly confident that this is the sort of pub that will be here for generations to come.

The seventh pub on the study tour that Julian and I took part in last week in Lowestoft was the Triangle Tavern. This is located on St. Peter’s Street, next to the Triangle Market and it’s also the brewery tap for the rather wonderful Green Jack brewery. The brewery was founded in 1993 by Tim Dunford and they moved to larger premises in the town in 2009.

The pub was trading from at least the 1860s, although I’ve struggled with the history of this venue and I think it’s something that I’ll have to return to. The pub isn’t marked on either of these maps from the 1880s and the road layout has changed here a bit, with Arnold Street not being cut off to build a road, Artillery Way, through the middle of the town. The pub is located just to the right of where ‘pump’ is mentioned on the lower map (the left hand one on the bottom map) and you’re welcome for that entirely useless cartographic lack of precision…..

The below article from 1909 isn’t about the pub, but about the Triangle Market located just in front of it, and I was amused that the council spent a fortune doing it all up and demanding everyone now pays a rent, only for stall holder to tell them “you do what you like, and I shall do as I like”, which evidently annoyed the town clerk.

“It will probably be remembered that some months ago Lowestoft Corporation decided to lay out the Triangle—which has been an eye-sore for some time—as a garden or open space. There was at once strong opposition, and sundry public meetings held to denounce the Corporation, and to suggest the conversion of the spot into a proper market place. A deputation of shopkeepers in the vicinity waited upon the Council, to urge their preference for a market, and in deference to the wishes expressed, the Triangle has since been paved and drained, at a cost of £180, properly prepared for a market, and stallage spaces marked out, with a reserve price upon each. For one 12-foot space next High Street, the reserve was 8s. for use two days a week.

On Wednesday night, at the Town Hall, Alderman Notley attempted to let by auction the stallage spaces and one or two advertising spaces on the hoarding which adjoin, but only received one bid, (£4) by Councillor E. Tuttle for one of the spaces on the hoarding. Certain conditions and stipulations as to the user of the Triangle, with a view of keeping off cheap-jacks and other “shows,” had been drawn up by the Council, and at the conclusion of the “letting” Mr. Notley remarked that it did not appear that the market was wanted very much. The Town Clerk remarked that it must be clearly understood that nobody would be allowed to go on the Triangle unless he hired stallages, under the conditions and stipulations laid down.—Mr. Mack (an old stall-holder) said he should be there on Saturday. The rules and regulations were made by the Town Council, but he had paid his way there for 20 years. “You do what you like, and I shall do as I like,” he added.—The Town Clerk: I have no doubt that if he goes on the Triangle, legal proceedings will be taken against him.”

Oooh, free books. And I liked the annotation of “where?”…..

The beer board and that’s a fine choice of beers from Green Jack with the pricing all being reasonable. I hadn’t actually realised that Green Jack did as much as keg beer either.

The bar area with the service being prompt, friendly and engaging. The pub accepts cash and cards, with the selection of bar snacks being reasonable. The general atmosphere was welcoming, the customers here always seem relaxed and calm (well, in the front bar) and it’s I think one of the best pubs in the town.

There was no doubt that I would have a half pint of the Ukraine, a 7% traditional ale that was brewed as a one-off to support the country. And the beer quality was high, one of the better real ales that I’ve ever had, there was a toffee flavour, it was malty, bitter and beautifully rounded. The ABV was rather hidden and there was a fruity element to the whole arrangement, a most marvellous beer.

One long bar and I was standing in the front bar to take this photo and this section of the pub used to be the Oddfellows. I’m unsure at the moment about this, it’s possible there were two pubs next to each other, that isn’t ultimately that rare, but I can’t find any source for this other than CAMRA and it might be something I have to investigate at a later date. Unfortunately, my ‘investigate later’ pile is quite substantial.

The back bar and this was the original part of the Triangle pub and I always think it’s a little more lively back here. There’s a pool table, as eagle-eyed readers would have noticed, with another seating area off to the left of this photo.

Overall, I have visited this pub rather a lot of times in the past and it’s a welcoming and warm environment, with two very distinctive bars. It is popular, well-used and frequently in the Good Beer Guide, just as it deserves to be.

The sixth pub of our onerous Lowestoft study day was the Carousel and this is another pub where the history is rather more challenging than ideal to uncover as it has changed its name on numerous occasions. It started off at the Herring Fisheries (the pub is located by Herring Fishery Score), then became the Spread Eagle Hotel (also being known as the Spreadeagle and the Spread Eagle), then becoming the Carousel, then becoming the Wheatsheaf and then becoming the Carousel again a few years ago. The building dates to the 1880s and I suspect is built on the same site as a previous licensed premises. In the late 1880s, the pub was operated by Youngman & Preston and they kept it until they were acquired by Lacons in 1919 and the original site of Youngman & Preston’s brewery is located where the Bird’s Eye factory stands today.

Here’s the pub in the 1880s, it’s the PH located just above the word ‘Herring’ and that score is still there today, albeit rather modified. The town’s police station is also just around the corner, handy if there are any issues that need resolving……

This article was in the local newspaper in 1903:

“LOWESTOFT LICENSING CASE DISMISSED.

“TURNED QUEER” ON GETTING INTO THE AIR.

At the Lowestoft Police-court on Thursday, before Mr. W. Mobbs and other magistrates, Frederick R. Golder, landlord of the Spread Eagle Hotel, High Street, Lowestoft, was charged by Superintendent Shipp with permitting drunkenness on his licensed premises on April 14th. Mr. Cecil Taylor (Messrs. Chamberlin & Taylor) appeared in support of the information, and Mr. E. A. Bracey of Norwich, was for the defence.

William Wright, pawnbroker’s manager, of 143, High Street, said on the afternoon in question he saw a man named John Rattle, who pawned a pair of boots. Witness advanced him 7s. 6d. for them. Rattle was perfectly sober, and witness gave the question in a proper manner.

George Lambert, labourer, in the employ of the Lowestoft Corporation, deposed to seeing Rattle in the Spread Eagle twice during the afternoon. He went in and came out twice, and about the second time witness followed him and finding constable.

Mr. Eastaugh – Do you often go into public-houses?

Witness – Well, sometimes when I am on my rounds I go and have a little refreshment.

Mr. Eastaugh – But you went into the public-house twice during the afternoon.

Witness – Well, it was just after the holidays, and I had a little extra.

Mr. Eastaugh – And you work for the Corporation?

Witness – Yes.

Mr. Eastaugh – I’ll bear that in mind.

Cross-examined – Witness was present when a policeman came in and told the landlord not to draw drink for a certain man. That man was not Rattle.

John Rattle said he went to the Spread Eagle after pawning the boots, and treated several persons standing in the bar. He had two half-quarters of Holland’s gin. Previous to going to the pawnbroker’s he had half a quartern of gin at the Harbour Hotel. He had been a teetotaller for some months but was recommended to take gin. He could not say what time it was when the policeman picked him up. He felt all right in the house, but turned queer when he got into the air. He went down a back street instead of going home, and fell at the top of Police Station Road. He fell sick when in the street.

Police-constable Wright stated he saw Rattle at 3.20 and he was then sober. He next saw him at five minutes to five, when he went into the Spread Eagle to warn the landlord about another man. Rattle was then leaning on the counter with his back to witness. He could not say whether he was sober or not. He said nothing to Rattle. Witness had left the house about five minutes when Rattle went past him. He was drunk and rolling down the street. He went into Milton Road, and witness followed him. When at the top of Police Station Road he fell, and as he was helpless witness took him into custody. Witness afterwards saw the landlord, who stated that Rattle went into the house drunk, and he did not serve him. He further intimated that the man had only just walked into the house, and thought witness had followed him in.

Cross-examined – Golder told him that he had only just come in from his business. He was working at a desk at the time.

Mr. Bracey then addressed the Bench, and said he thought the magistrates would be satisfied that his client did not permit drunkenness on the premises. The constable went into the bar, but did not see anything in the condition of the man to draw the landlord’s attention to him.

The defendant was sworn, and stated that he had been in business in Lowestoft for between three and four years. On the day of the charge he went home about 4.45. The policeman warned him about serving a certain man. Witness saw Rattle near the counter, and thought at first that the policeman was referring to him. Witness took the precaution to order the man out. Witness could not say if the man had been in the bar earlier in the afternoon, as he did not go in till about 4.30.

Chas. Clarke, basket maker, of 7, Jacob’s Street, said he went to the Spread Eagle about four o’clock. The landlord was not present then. A little before five Rattle came in, and the policeman behind him. The defendant ordered Rattle out, and did not serve him.

Cross-examined – He could see Rattle was drunk, and thought the policeman would draw the landlord’s attention to him.

George Annis, labourer, of White Horse Street, spoke to going to the public-house about three o’clock. The landlord went in over an hour later. Witness then confirmed the statements of the last witness.

George Skittall went into the house at 2.25 and remained till five. Rattle went in at 4.55, and was not served with drink.

Police-constable Ward Rattle went into the bar about half-past four. Rattle ordered something, but the landlord did not draw anything for him.

Police-constable Warner, re-called, said he did not see anybody go into the house that was drunk.

The magistrates retired, and having consulted a quarter of an hour, dismissed the case.”

It all sounds rather confusing, but I’m sure that it was a handy reminder for pubs in the town not to serve drunks, or at least, not to let the police see them do it. A newspaper article published in the Eastern Evening News in 1909 read:

“ASSAULT ON LOWESTOFT POLICEMAN.

NORWICH MAN SENTENCED.

At Lowestoft Police-court to-day, before the Mayor and other magistrates,

Edward Woods alias Henry Howes, rag and bone collector, of Norwich, was charged with assaulting Police-constable W. Pearson whilst in the execution of his duty at Lowestoft on the 3rd instant.

Police-constable W. Pearson said that he was called to the Spread Eagle Hotel to eject the prisoner and three other men. Witness asked the proprietor if he had requested prisoner to leave, and he replied that he had. Witness then asked him several times, but he refused to go. Witness got hold of one of the men to eject him, whereupon prisoner said, “No, you don’t,” and struck at witness until he got further assistance. When they were outside prisoner jumped on to witness’ back and pulled him to the ground. After witness had handcuffed his prisoner, the present prisoner again obstructed him and tried to get the man away.

Martha Armes, barmaid at the Spread Eagle, also gave evidence, and said that prisoner and some other men were causing a disturbance in the bar of the hotel. They had been refused drink owing to their condition. When Police-constable Pearson tried to eject one of the other men, the prisoner tried to strike the officer. When they were outside prisoner again obstructed the policeman when he was struggling on the ground with another man. Whilst witness was assisting the constable, prisoner struck witness in the left eye, and also kicked another barmaid, who was endeavouring to get prisoner off the constable.

Prisoner—Did I strike you wilfully?—Yes.

William Hall, landlord of the Spread Eagle, corroborated, and said that prisoner kicked witness whilst he and the barmaids were assisting the constable.

Prisoner here said he was telling the man who was in the constable’s charge to go quietly. He called Mr. E. Tuttle from the Bench as a witness, and asked him if he saw him (prisoner) strike the constable. This Mr. Tuttle said he did not see him do.

Prisoner, who was characterised by Superintendent Shipp as an “undesirable,” was sent to prison for twenty-one days’ hard labour.”

There was quite a lot of drama along these lines that took place here, I imagine Lowestoft was quite a challenging place at the turn of the last century with many “undesirables” lurking about.

Firstly, apologies for the lack of photos in this post, the excitement of seeing Kieron rather distracted me. This photo is a zoomed in version from the one below, showing some of the beers that were available. The pub is large with views out to the North Sea and I had forgotten that there’s an exciting set of stairs to reach the downstairs toilet. Anyway, that’s about the limit of my witterings about the pub since I wasn’t paying much attention to them, but I do get easily distracted when talking to interesting people. There’s a pool table in the pub which I understand is well used, with music nights also taking place to surprise and delight the locals.

There were some bottled real ales available, but on these study tours we limit ourselves mostly to half pints, so I went for the John Smiths which was smooth, light and tasted as expected.

It’s a pleasant enough pub, the size meant it didn’t feel quite as vibrant as the Welcome and the Volunteer, with the service being friendly and the surroundings comfortable. The building, although not the pub business which has a lease for a few more years, went up for auction last year with a guide price of between £260,000 and £280,000, which doesn’t seem unreasonable at all given there are two decent flats located on the upper floors.

NB, as I was short of photos, Julian sent me this which he took in the pub.

The fifth pub that Julian and I visited on our latest study day was the Welcome, located just a few doors down from the Volunteer. First opened in the mid-nineteenth century, it was formerly known as the Adelaide Stores or the Adelaide Vaults.

In 1896, the Suffolk Mercury reported a little theft that had taken place at the pub, not helped by the landlord accidentally keeping it unlocked.

“Two lads named George Balls (16) and Charles Smith (17) took advantage of a recent opportunity for enjoyment. On Wednesday night in last week the door opening on Old Nelson Street of the Adelaide Stores was inadvertently left unfastened, and going past just after six o’clock the following morning, the two lads seized the chance presenting itself. Going inside they selected a quantity of cigars, several bottles of wine and whiskey, and about 5s. The cigars, wine, and whiskey were hidden on the beach near the Model Yacht Pond. Smith had previously been employed by Mr. Turner, the landlord, and when the latter discovered the confiscation of his property he communicated with the police. P.-c. Ruffles at once went in search of Balls, finding him near the buried booty. Over two shillings was found upon him, Balls explaining the possession of such unusual wealth by saying Smith had lent it to him. He was locked up, while Smith joined him in custody soon afterwards. Both then confessed. Balls showed the officer where they had deposited the stimulants and cigars. Only one bottle of wine was found, and Balls concluded that someone must have watched the interment of the remainder and quietly abstracted it.—At the Police Court on Monday the prisoners were committed for trial at the Quarter Sessions.”

In 1904, the Bullards owned pub was required to make changes as it had become “a nuisance”…..

“Respecting the Adelaide stores, London-road, Supt. Shipp raised an objection to a bar which was situated in a narrow passage adjoining the premises. The sanitary arrangements also left much to be desired. At present a great nuisance prevailed. The Magistrates’ Clerk, Mr. F. S. Ellen, said fresh plans had been put in and Messrs. Bullard had written explaining that they had every desire that the house should be well conducted, and would be prepared to carry out any alterations suggested.

Supt. Shipp said he had inspected the plans, and if the alterations proposed were carried out that would practically remove his objection. Mr. P. H. Le Strange proceeded to explain the plans to the Bench, and said the passage would be better lighted than at present. After private consultation the Bench decided to adjourn the matter for a fortnight, and suggested that there should only be one entrance in the passage, and that the proposed smoke-room should be approached from the public bar.”

I can’t find out when, or indeed why, the pub name changed to the Welcome, but the old name stopped appearing in newspaper records at the end of the 1930s, so I’m not sure if there a post-war change of name for whatever reason.

Anyway back to today and there was a friendly welcome from the team member behind the bar. Here are the beer options which I think it’s fair to say did not surprise and delight me, although Lacons Encore on keg is OK I suppose at a push.

I prefer Encore on cask, which is rare for me to say (and Julian will wholeheartedly agree with), but this is light, hoppy and reliable.

If I’m being honest, I’m not fully convinced that this seating arrangement is entirely optimal. It was at this point that my friends Rob and Annette, who I knew from Lowestoft twenty years ago, came in and that was a lovely treat for them to see me. I won’t be rude about Rob on this blog, as I was rude to him in person and I think that’s more agreeable, but it was good to see them both again. Annette was also in fine form, so that made our stay at the pub a little longer and I’m sure that I’ll be back to see them in the future.

This series of photos was on the wall, mostly showing the Beach Village, including the Rising Sun, the last building to be demolished. I sense another series of ‘fascinating’ posts on this, as I’ve long been fascinated by the Beach Village and its destruction. I’ll return to that theme….

This was a perfectly friendly pub, the service was polite and the arrangements were comfortable despite the slightly specialist seating. And it was good to see Rob and Annette of course.

The fourth pub of the day that Julian and I visited was the Volunteer, a Stonegate pub operated as one of their Craft Union venues. I quite like this chain, the pubs are wet-led with no food, usually community driven and are very often really quite, er, vibrant. The pub first opened in the 1890s and was known as the Volunteer Stores, this later became a Inntrepeneur pub before Stonegate acquired it.

The Lowestoft Journal published in September 1914 what I thought was an interesting article and it occurs to me that this would have been one of the first correspondences that the locals would have heard from the front.

“Mr Bessey, of Lowestoft, who has been returned wounded from the front, and is now in Hospital, Woolwich, has written as follows to the Volunteer Stores, Lowestoft:-

Dear Pal,—Just a line to say I have returned from the war to England, wounded in both hands from shrapnel fire. They are only slight wounds, and I shall be as well as ever again in about three or four weeks. I have no bones broken, only flesh wounds. I expect I shall have to go back again for another issue after I get well again, but I don’t grumble, as I think myself lucky to be alive now. It was hot, I can tell you, before I got bowled over. I got mixed up with other regiments, so I took no harm, and shall be able to tell you more if I have the luck to see you again. I didn’t think I should have reached England again so soon. I should like to be out at the front at the finish, if we come out on top, so as to return home with my regiment. Now must bring this letter to a close, as I cannot write very well with my hands bandaged. We got plenty given us out in France, also in Belgium. The people out there behaved well to us.”

I’ve seen this before as well, when the injured returned back home early in the war were actually fearful that they’d miss the finish as it wasn’t exactly expected this conflict would last for years. There seems to be some link to the military in the pub, they raised support packages for British troops in South Africa in the early twentieth century and in more recent years there were military items displayed on the wall.

The prices in the chain are firmly towards the lower end of the scale across the keg, cask, softs and spirit options, an approach which requires a high volume of customers. They only had one real ale when we visited, the Gold Beer From Hobgoblin. The customer service wasn’t appalling, with the service time being reasonable.

The pub was clean, although Stonegate do perhaps need to do some maintenance upgrades to the venue.

The lower section of the pub and there’s another feature of Craft Union pubs, which is that they show a lot of sport.

The pricing and some of these drinks are cheaper than at JD Wetherspoon venues.

The beer was Hobgoblins Gold from Marston’s Brewery, priced at £2.20 a pint, it was well kept but it’s quite a generic and uninteresting beer. Julian liked it, but he’s more into beers like that.

There’s certainly a place for Craft Union pubs, they offer cheap drinks and try their best to be affordable. The downside of that is that inevitably there’s a challenge to maintaining the building and keeping it safe for all customers, something some of their pubs achieve and some simply don’t. When we visited it is fair to say that the venue was very lively, although it didn’t feel unsafe. I suspect that this is one of these pubs that someone new to the area could visit and be made to feel welcome, so an essential part of the community.

The third pub of the day that Julian and I visited was the Fishermans Wharf which is located on the South Pier in Lowestoft, just off Royal Plain. The sun was shining, as I might have mentioned, and it was looking busy in their external seating area. The venue is managed by the pier as their food and drink operation, and before anyone asks, they don’t seem to use an apostrophe in the pub name and so nor have I. The pier itself was opened in 1846 and was designed by William Cubitt as part of the wider harbour works that were taking place. We didn’t take the opportunity to explore the pier area, but this was only the first part of our Lowestoft adventure, so we’ll perhaps add that to the next expedition.

Back to the venue, where there was a friendly welcome from the team member. There were two real ales available, the Ghost Ship from Adnams and the Old Speckled Hen from Greene King. There didn’t seem to be any keg of interest, just the usual generic stuff.

A boat nailed to the ceiling to add some authenticity.

The interior of the venue.

I ordered the Ghost Ship from Adnams, it was light, refreshing, hoppy and a reliable number, although it’s not really something that particularly surprises and delights me, but it was well-kept. Julian ordered the same and was entirely content with the temperature and keeping of the beer.

Julian ordered a second beer, the Old Speckled Hen from Greene King, and if I’m being honest, I think that the sea would have tasted better. On the turn and odd (the beer, not the sea).

We weren’t in a food ordering mood, as Julian had booked the Lowestoft Tandoori for later on, but the dishes coming out looked decent. I was surprised at how brave some people were sitting outside eating fish and chips, with the seagulls just inches away from them.

Overall, this was a busy and clearly popular venue, it was mostly clean, the service was friendly and the prices were reasonable. There are parts of the pub that perhaps need something of a renovation, but these are challenging times and the proximity to the sea must be problematic in terms of staying on top of maintenance as if I lived next to the North Sea I suspect that I’d look flaky in places as well. The beer selection wasn’t vast, but it’s a small venue and they’re clearly serving what their clientele want. It’s well reviewed on-line and it certainly has some rather pleasant sea views, so all really rather lovely.

Second on our Lowestoft pub list for the day as the Harbour, which I’ve always known as the Harbour Inn, although I don’t think that they’ve offered accommodation for a long time. It’s located by the town’s bascule bridge in what I would call the southern part of Lowestoft.

The venue opened as the Harbour Inn, also referred to as the Harbour Hotel, as a coaching house in 1849 and became known for its decadent wine selection as well as its lodging options and ales. Samuel Howlett was recorded as being the innkeeper in 1855, likely the first landlord of the venue. As is visible in the above advert, I rather like that the venue was helping with the supply of 4.5 gallon casks, that’s a pin and they’re currently rather in favour.

In 1862, the Suffolk Mercury reported about a serious crime that had taken place in the pub, the text of which I’ve copied below.

“STABBING AT LOWESTOFT.

John Small (23), sailor, was charged with feloniously wounding W. Toby, at Lowestoft, on 13 February, with intent to maim, and Martin McDonough, with aiding and assisting the same.

Mr. Phear prosecuted; the prisoners were undefended.

William Toby: I am a smack owner, and on 13 February was at the Harbour Inn. I was playing cards when the prisoner came in, in company with their master, the Captain of the schooner Enterprise. Prisoner wanted to play with me, at all fours, the captain, myself, and the two prisoners, making up the party. Shortly after they had an altercation with the master, and the landlord ordered them out. I went to the door with them, shook hands with the captain, and while doing the same with McDonough, Small knocked me down. I rose, and at once stood up in my own defence, when they both attacked me. The landlord asked me to go round to the back door of the Inn, and he would let me in, so that I might get away from the prisoners. While there I saw McDonough come round the corner. He called out, “Come on, Jack, here is the b—––,” I then tried to run away, but they both chased me, and when they got up to me fell on the top of me. The landlord pulled the men off me. I looked round for my hat, and went into the Inn to seek it, not finding it outside. I went home and said to my wife, I am hurt, and shortly after I fell down in the kitchen, and the blood flowed from my side. I had only one wound.

Edward John Thomas: I manage the Harbour Inn, Lowestoft. On the evening in question I remember Mr. Toby and prisoners leaving the house. They were in the act of shaking hands when Small struck prisoner. They then began fighting, after which I took Toby round to the back door, in order to get him away from them. I ran to the front to enter the house to let Toby in. I met McDonough coming round as I made my way to the front. I called out, “he is not here, he is gone round the other way.” I said this in order to mislead them. McDonough, however, got to the corner of the house, and called out, “Jack, here he is.” They then rushed at Toby again, and Small struck him a body blow on the side. I assisted again in pulling McDonough off Toby, who at once entered the house. I then led the prisoners over the bridge. As we walked to the bridge, Small remarked, “I have lost a good knife.” Small ran back to resume the fight, but was prevented. I left McDonough in charge of the Capt. A knife was afterwards brought to me, picked up by Mrs. Adams, outside the house.

Mary Adams: I was standing so that I could see Mr. Thomas into Mr. Toby, some round the house. Small ran passed me, and as he did so, he drew his knife from his side, and called out “Here he is, Jack.” I afterwards picked up the knife produced. I saw the three men all fall down in front of the knife immediately afterwards. I picked up the knife just where Mr. Toby was lying.

P.C. Simpson: From information I received I went on board the schooner Enterprise, and searched the prisoner Small, when I found him with the sheath produced suspended to his waist. I said, where is your knife? He said “I have not got one; although I carry a sheath, I never carry a knife.” I apprehended him stating the charge. He asked me whether it was a bad case. I said it was a bad stab. He was very anxious to know what punishment he would receive, and said “he hoped to God Toby would not die.”

Mr. Chubbe, surgeon, deposed: I found Toby in his house shortly after he was wounded. I found the wound to be 1.5 inches long, and 1.75 inches in depth, and was just below the left hip, striking downwards. I dressed it, and judged Toby to be bad.

His Lordship in summing up, said: Gentlemen of the Jury, the prisoners at the bar are charged with feloniously wounding Wm. Toby, with intent to do him serious bodily harm. It is quite clear that he received his injury from one of the prisoners; which, you will have to say. It appears the parties had been playing at cards at the Harbour Inn, at Lowestoft, after which, when Toby was shaking hands with McDonough, Small struck a blow at him, which led to a fight, in which McDonough joined. Mary Adams saw Small pull out a knife. Small himself afterwards said he had lost a very good knife; and Mary Adams found a knife. When apprehended Small had a sheath suspended to his person, but no knife; concerning which, he said, when questioned, that he never wore one. Small was also seen to strike Toby in such a way as might produce the wound in question. It was evident that two parties could not be convicted in a crime of this sort. But one individual could inflict such a wound: therefore, in my judgment one of the prisoners should be acquitted. You must, however, decide whether Small was guilty of inflicting the wound or not. There is no evidence to show that McDonough had any notion of what was done, or that such a felonious attack was premeditated. He was engaged in a quarrel in which no agreement had been come to, to use a knife. With these observations the case must rest in the hands of the jury.

The Jury at once returned a verdict of Guilty against John Small, and Not Guilty against Martin McDonough. The last prisoner was at once liberated, and despatched to Lowestoft by first train.

His Lordship, in sentencing the prisoner, said, if the case had terminated fatally there could be no doubt your worst fears would have been realised, and that you would have been found guilty of wilful murder. It must be borne in mind the knife was drawn for attack, not for defence. As it is you are only amenable to the county and I think it likely you were at the time somewhat advanced in liquor. If I thought you had been quite sober I should have passed upon you the severest penalty the law would allow. As it is I wish to protect against a knife being pulled out in such quarrels as that brought under my notice, and, therefore, the verdict of the Court is that you be imprisoned and kept to hard labour for 12 calendar months.”

As the judge suggested, this was nearly a murder and that would have meant the death penalty for the attacker. It was probably rather more excitement than Edward Thomas, the landlord, needed for the evening as well.

The venue disappeared from the newspaper record in the late nineteenth century and I’m not entirely sure if it was renamed at this time. Later in the twentieth century, the venue was operated by Trumans until 1978 and then renamed the Oakwood, shortly after becoming known as Bridge House. By the late 1990s, the venue was operated by Inntrepreneur, but in 2003, there were new owners and they sensibly restored the former Harbour name. I do wish pub owners would stop faffing about with pub names, just keep it the same…..

When we entered, there was signage noting that food is no longer served at the venue, although it seems that this only stopped a few days ago. It’s owned by Moss & Co, a small pub operator in this area, who acquired it a couple of years ago. The service was timely and friendly, with the pricing being reasonable for the beers that they had.

There was a shuffleboard available to add some excitement to proceedings. There has historically been a nightclub upstairs, but this has apparently now closed. The pub was clean and tidy throughout, perhaps a little formulaic in the design as it looked like something Stonegate had been faffing around with, but the atmosphere was welcoming and comfortable. It wasn’t particularly busy when we were there, but it was a Thursday afternoon in extreme heat and I think plenty of Lowestoft denizens were looking to sit in the sun.

The draught options, which didn’t entirely whet my appetite if I’m being honest.

The two real ale options, which were Mosaic from Adnams and the house bitter from Moss & Co.

I went for the house bitter and it tasted like something Greene King would make. It was punchy for its low ABV, but it was very bitter, not well rounded and had something of a muddy flavour. After my announcement that it tasted like a Greene King beer, Julian did go and ask at the bar which brewery made the beer, but they didn’t know but thought that it might come from Greene King. We weren’t surprised. Julian went for an Adnams Mosaic, a beer he’s been drinking since before the war, and was suitably pleased that it was well kept and tasted as he expected.

I rather liked this pub, it was sizeable, clean, organised and welcoming. The venue is well reviewed on-line and it all feels professionally managed. The beer selection was perhaps a little sub-optimal and a little narrow for my liking, but the beers were well kept and the house bitter was memorable. There’s no food at the moment, which is something I understand that the owners are looking at, so perhaps the pub doesn’t have much of a niche at the moment, but I’m sure they’ll develop something to surprise and delight the locals.