Walking. Gossip. Travel.

Category: Norfolk

  • Norwich – St John the Baptist’s Church, Timberhill

    Norwich – St John the Baptist’s Church, Timberhill

    This church is the main Anglican church of the Catholic tradition in Norwich and the building dates to the eleventh century. It was perhaps constructed shortly after the building of Norwich Castle, which had forced some urban replanning.

    The tower fell down in 1784, which wasn’t ideal, but a shortened version was added in 1877. The church had been through some troubled times before the tower fell down, being stripped of its icons in the sixteenth century and then not being looked after structually. They also flogged off the church bells to help pay for the repair of the building, which I suppose makes sense given they didn’t have a tower to put them in.

    There are two different design styles, between the nave and the two aisles.

    Until 1828, the church had a thatched roof, which must have made for quite a sight. The more modern roof is a little less exciting, but the building is now at least in a good state of repair. Those little windows on the roof were also added in the nineteenth century, I’m not sure I like them, it reminds me of a house conversion.

    One of the few churches in Norwich which has replaced its railings, which were removed during the Second World War.

    The font, which dates to the eighteenth century, primarily as the one before got a bit broken when the tower collapsed. The rather large font cover is more modern, designed by John Howard and installed here in 1929.

    I bet this was the Victorians, so often careless with their placement of new church furniture. Although, interestingly, Father Ram, the controversial vicar in the late nineteenth century was determined to restore the building to how it looked in the medieval period, which included removing the George box pews.

    This stained glass window is from 1910, painted by Martin Travers.

    Looking towards the altar. I hadn’t expected to go in this church when I walked by a few years ago, hence why I only had my phone and that at the time didn’t exactly produce quality photos. I’ll go back after this virus is over to take better ones.

    The rood beam with its three figures, introduced by Father Ram, with some opposition to his High Church reforms. Unfortunately, the historic rood screen was removed at the same time.

     

  • Dictionary of the Vulgar Tongue – Day Thirty-Four

    Dictionary of the Vulgar Tongue – Day Thirty-Four

    The Dictionary of the Vulgar Tongue was first published at the end of the eighteenth century, and given that the Coronavirus crisis is giving too much time to read books, I thought I’d pick a daily word from it until I got bored…..

    Bones

    One of the shortest definitions provided by the dictionary so far, simply saying “dice”. The reason for the word is just as simple, as for most of human history, dice were made from animal bone. There were always alternatives such as wood, metal, antlers, stone and no doubt many more materials, but bone was likely from where it started. Dice have for centuries also been loaded, and there’s another phrase from this book on that (in about 40 days), with weights hidden inside the dice to fool the unsuspecting. I’m still impressed that King Henry VIII lost the bells of St. Paul’s Church whilst throwing his bone dice, not an ideal situation for him….

  • Streets of Norwich – Haymarket

    Streets of Norwich – Haymarket

    Part of my Streets of Norwich project….

    The Haymarket is a slightly quirkily defined area, cutting in between Brigg Street and the Market Place (Gentleman’s Walk), as well as joining in what is now called Millennium Plain and William Booth Street. For a while this was the city’s Jewish quarter and there was a synagogue here, before the Jews were expelled in 1286. Haymarket was also the annex of the main market place where hay and straw was brought for sale, a role it had for many centuries.

    The temporarily boarded up McDonald’s, which was formerly the George & Dragon pub. it was a pub from the 1730s until 1988, when it was converted first into a bank and then into McDonald’s in 2002. This really should be a pub again given its long heritage….

    The building at the rear was the once impressive Lambert’s warehouse, demolished in around 1970 and replaced with an awful bland building. On the right-hand side is St. Peter Mancroft, Norwich’s largest medieval parish church.

    Some sculptures. In another brilliantly inspired move, Norwich City Council ripped out the fountains and seating which were here, replacing them with nearly no seating and more paving slabs. This used to be a little park area in the mid-twentieth century, something that could perhaps be brought back in.

    The Thomas Browne statue, which was placed here in October 1905, to mark the three hundredth anniversary of his birth.

    Interestingly, where the statue sits today, there used to be a pub, the White Horse, which was demolished at the end of the nineteenth century (the map above is from 1885), in around 1898. For much of the nineteenth century it had also been called the Seed Mart, which is perhaps a unique pub name.

    Another dreadful modern building on the left-hand side, another in a substantial series of incompetent decisions from local planners. It was built as Peter Robinson’s store in the 1962, but it required the demolition of the Gaumont theatre, formerly the Haymarket Picture House, in 1959.

    The council have mauled this square so much that it’s lost nearly all of its character. Not that long ago it had a pub that was 250 years old, a huge theatre and an historic warehouse, now it’s got some generic retail buildings that give no nod to the heritage here and nearly no seating areas. There is though some heritage to the buildings which are on one side of the Haymarket, at the rear of this photo, more on which in another post.

  • Streets of Norwich – Swan Lane (Jem Mace)

    Streets of Norwich – Swan Lane (Jem Mace)

    As a follow-up to my post about Swan Lane.

    On the side of Turtle Bay is a sign marking that Jem Mace, “the father of modern boxing”, was the landlord of the White Swan public house. That building was demolished in the mid-nineteenth century, with the replacement structure now being the home of Turtle Bay.

    Jem mace.jpg

    James Mace was born on 8 April 1831 in Beeston, near to Dereham, the fifth of eight children of blacksmith William Mace and his wife Ann. He got into boxing young, which at that time was usually bare knuckles, as boxing gloves weren’t required until 1867. Originally he was interested in a career as a musician, and it’s said that this dream ended when three youths smashed up his violin for no reason in Great Yarmouth, which was also said to have fuelled his anger.

    Mace became the Heavyweight Champion of England in 1861, the English Middleweight champion in 1863 and the World Heavyweight champion in 1870. It was this fight that was perhaps the most important of his career, fought in Kennerville in Louisana (a place I’ve been when I stayed at the Kenner Econolodge, as it’s now effectively all part of New Orleans). The prize fund for the winner was £3,000, which is around £200,000 in today’s money, so this was a huge event.

    Mace owned the White Swan from 1857, during which time he managed in 1858 to be fined a sizeable sum for using bad language to a woman. It’s not clear when he left, likely not until the early 1860s when the building was taken down. He died on 30 November 1910 in Jarrow, County Durham, certainly an eventful life….

  • Streets of Norwich – Eastbourne Place

    Streets of Norwich – Eastbourne Place

    Part of my Streets of Norwich project….

    Not much has changed on this little street since the above map was published in 1885. The only change is to the name, as St. Faith’s Lane used to go all the way from Tombland to King Street. It sort of still does, although St. Faith’s Lane as a road name stops at Prince of Wales Road, then becomes Eastbourne Place and then becomes Mountergate.

    This map, from twenty years earlier, seems to suggest that Eastbourne Place was constructed in the early 1860s as there are no buildings marked here. Why they choose the name Eastbourne, I have no idea…..

    And the building would have been possible because of the construction of Prince of Wales Road, which was in the late 1850s (the above map is 1849), which finally opened in 1862.

    The area in front of Eastbourne Place has been messed around by the council on numerous occasions, the once little wooded area barely now exists, although at least the nearly always broken public toilet has been removed.

    The building on the left-hand side, which is now blacked out, was until the 2019 a branch of Domino’s, but it has a long history of being a food outlet, as in the 1860s John Sword opened up a refreshment rooms here which sold tea, coffee and other drinks. He also provided accommodation, which I assume was in the rooms which are now occupied by the nightclub Loft.

    The Presto Bar was also here, which housed a 60-foot long model car track, which still exists as Presto Park, although has been much changed over the decades. I think the Presto Bar occupied the same space as the refreshment rooms opened up by John Sword.

    This area looks better now than it has for some years, the space in front has been opened out and the number of cars reduced, although some more greenery would be nice. And someone needs to open up where Domino’s once was….

  • Streets of Norwich – Bank Street

    Streets of Norwich – Bank Street

    Part of my Streets of Norwich project….

    The above map is from the 1870s, with no substantial changes to Bank Street since then, although the area to the south of it was turned into a hotel.

    On the left is the entrance to what was Wade’s Court, although has also been known, and is now signed as Wade’s Yard. On the right is the back of the Royal Hotel, which takes up the whole block and which was built between 1896 and 1897. When they were demolishing the buildings on the site they discovered archaeological remains from the outer precincts of Norwich Castle. Built with 65 bedrooms for guests, the hotel remained trading until 1977 when a lack of car parking saw its demise. Fortunately, plans in the 1970s to demolish it and replace it with a glass office block were rejected, with the building more recently being used for offices.

    The second building on the left, with the sign hanging up above the door, is the former Bank Tavern. Later on part of the Steward & Patteson brewery, this pub first opened in the early part of the nineteenth century and it remained trading until November 1965.

    Looking back down Bank Street towards Bank Plain.

  • Norwich – TGI Fridays

    Norwich – TGI Fridays

    Back to 2017, and the much missed (well, by me) unlimited appetisers which were offered by TGI Fridays in Norwich.

    That’s the offer, you can order endless appetisers for £9.99 if you want huge amounts of the same thing, or £12.99 to order from any of the dishes listed. The staff member told me that no-one had ever ordered the same appetiser for £9.99 to his knowledge, I suspect it’s just there to lower the headline price so they can say “from £9.99”.

    My visit here was with Liam, and we planned to get through all of the options between us if we could, with a few exceptions obviously such as the salad. The options were a pulled pork sundae, garlic ciabatta bread, taquito bites, BBQ houmous, mozzarella dippers, nachos, potato skins, loaded fries, bruschetta, chicken wings, house salad, onion rings and crispy fries.

    The pulled pork sundae, which consists of mashed potato with BBQ pulled pork, bacon, cheese and jalapenos.

    Chicken wings in a cola sauce (there were a choice of different options for the chicken wings, with the others being BBQ, hot, scorpion hot and boneless).

    Um, I have no idea, but I think it might be the garlic ciabatta bread with cheese.

    Potato skins.

    Onion rings.

    Taquito bites.

    Boneless chicken wings, which were very moreish.

    I’m not that keen on mozzarella dippers, so fortunately Liam went for those.

    Nachos.

    They definitely need to do this again. The service was efficient and engaging, although it’s hard for the waiting staff to be able to offer any upsells, so it’s a different style of service to usual, especially since the soft drinks have free refills. There were no real delays in more food being brought out, noticeable by how much we got through. The highlights for me were the onion rings, boneless chicken wings and the taquito bites, with only the pulled pork sundae being a bit of a mash of tastes and textures that I wasn’t that thrilled about.

    The food at TGI Fridays is usually reasonable, although priced at the higher end of the scale, so this was a useful offer in terms of getting better value for money. Unfortunately, I’m not sure that they’ve repeated this offer since 2018, but perhaps when Covid-19 is over then it might come back.

  • Norwich – West Cornwall Pasty (Railway Station)

    Norwich – West Cornwall Pasty (Railway Station)

    There are two West Cornwall Pasty outlets in Norwich, one in the Haymarket and the other at the railway station.

    These photos are from their Christmas selection, since the outlet is currently shut due to this bloody virus. At this precise moment in time I could well do with a lovely pasty from here though…. Incidentally, I think their best two options are the chicken & chorizo pasty and the Thai green vegetable curry, with the potato wedges being rather less exciting.

    It’ll be open again soon enough no doubt…..

  • Streets of Norwich – White Lion Street

    Streets of Norwich – White Lion Street

    Part of my Streets of Norwich project….

    White Lion Street runs from Gentlemans’ Walk and bends into Orford Hill and Red Lion Street, all very much unchanged over the last 150 years. The street takes its name from the former White Lion pub, but was originally called Sadelere Rowe in the thirteenth century due to the saddle-making industry here, and later Lorimers Rowe due to the harness strap makers that were located along the street.

    Although it’s relatively short, there used to be a few pubs down this street, with the Adelphi (13 White Lion Street), the Fruiterers Arms (2-4 White Lion Street) and the White Lion / Haymarket Stores (10 White Lion Street).

    The end of the street, which is all now pedestrianised, which joins Gentlemans’ Walk.

    Looking along the road to the Castle Quarter shopping centre. WH Smiths is on the left, this is the former Fruiterers Arms and is a real loss to the city centre as this would be a rather lovely setting for a pub. The building dates to the seventeenth century and was a pub from the mid-nineteenth century until 1989.

    Looking back towards to the market place area. The building to the left of Ladbrokes was Costa, but they closed in early 2020, so it’s up for rental, with this being the former Haymarket Stores pub. The Haymarket Stores, which was once known as the White Lion, closed in 1974.

    Back in 1912, the businesses along the street were:

    NORTH SIDE

    1 – Pearks, grocers

    1A – Albert Turner, confectioner

    3 – Cozen Randall, hairdresser

    5 – Sam Ellis, fruit merchant

    7 – W. Fletcher, butchers

    9 – Eastern Counties Rubber Company

    11 – London & Norwich Cycle & Rubber Company

    13 – Back’s, wine and spirits merchants

    15 – Back’s, tobacconists

    17 – Henry Moore William, wine and spirits store

    19-21 – Grix William, dining rooms

    SOUTH SIDE

    2-4 – Fruiterers Arms, pub

    6 – Edward Richard Pooley, shoe warehouse

    10 – White Lion, pub

    12 – E. Reeve & Son, grindery

     

    The 1939 register had the following residents living on the street:

    1A – Rosetta Clarke, Douglas Clarke, Frances Webster, Olive Johnson

    6 – Norah Sage

    10 – Edward Thaxton, Emmeline Thaxton, Leonard Thaxton

    13 – William G Gerry, Lily Gerry, William J Gerry

  • Greater Anglia : Norwich to London Liverpool Street (New Trains)

    Greater Anglia : Norwich to London Liverpool Street (New Trains)

    This is the first time that I’ve had chance to go on the new train between Norwich and London Liverpool Street, I seem to have caught the older rolling stock over the last couple of months. The train was the 11:30 from Norwich, which seemed relatively quiet, even though it was taking passengers from the 12:00 service which had been cancelled. The new train has twelve carriages, and they’ve been made by Stadler in Switzerland.

    A screen showing customers where everything is on the train.

    It’s possible to see all the way down the train, but there are closeable see-through doors along the carriages. The design of the seats is clunky and rushed, the heater unit on the side is in the way of customers, as is the table’s central support which is just where knees might otherwise go. There is now just one power point between two people (unless one has a USB) and for reasons that I cannot comprehend, plugs don’t fit into many of the power sockets as the base of the seat is in the way. I was able to plug my laptop into the power sockets under the seats on the other side of the table, but only because there was no-one sitting there. It’s an unfortunate bodged job from Greater Anglia, arguably unacceptable given the price increases that they’ve introduced which should have meant they had more than enough money to do this properly.

    This slightly irritated me, some idiot putting their feet on what are nearly new seats. Fortunately, it also irritated the guard who politely, but firmly, told the passenger to stop this behaviour when he saw her.

    And safely into London Liverpool Street, all on time.

    The old rolling stock on the left and the new rolling stock on the right.

    Taking everything into account, I prefer the older train. It’s more comfortable, it’s better designed and I think it’s more functional. However, there are two caveats with that, the older train isn’t easy for those with disabilities and it also doesn’t hold as many people as the new train, so these are two big advantages with the upgrade. It’s all very nice that money has been spent on new trains, but I’m hoping that they’re taken in for an interior refit soon to try and give the finish a slightly classier and more functional edge.