Category: Serbia

  • Belgrade Trip – Axiom Beograd Craft Beer

    Belgrade Trip – Axiom Beograd Craft Beer

    20240910_134205

    After all that walking, I felt that it was necessary to get a quick beer. I had a look at the Untappd Verified venues and this one was nearby and it looked like it had a decent selection of craft beers. It’s the venue in the centre of the photo, I would have likely walked by it if I hadn’t of known that it was here.

    20240910_123744

    The beer list is neatly presented on the wall and there was a friendly welcome, although I thought the staff member thought I was lost rather than looking for a beer.

    20240910_123753

    I started with the Hop Charger from Axiom Brewery, a very hoppy beer, although that isn’t unexpected given the name. It had quite a bitter kick, but the fruitiness lingered. I’m not keen on these little glasses, they don’t seem entirely functional to me.

    20240910_125614

    The environment, there was wi-fi and there were places to charge devices for anyone who needed them. There is food served, but I think they just go and acquire it from premises a couple of doors down. But, that seems like a practical solution.

    20240910_130832

    The prices were reasonable (well, by UK standards) and it was a welcoming venue, so I went for a can of Danube Fruit Stew from 3bir, as that sounded like a suitable local beer to get. It’s a fruited sour, which is one of my favourite beer types, and it wasn’t thick or lumpy, but was smooth, suitably tart and with lingering blackcurrant flavours. And it was obviously very healthy with all that fruit in it.

    A suitably positive experience for my first beer in Serbia.

  • Belgrade Trip – Belgrade Fortress (Institute for the Protection of Cultural Monuments)

    Belgrade Trip – Belgrade Fortress (Institute for the Protection of Cultural Monuments)

    20240910_104404

    I liked a repurposed building, this was initially built between 1902 and 1904 for the General Staff of the Serbian Army. It was heavily damaged during the First World War bombings, but was repaired and used as the History Department of the General Staff until 1928. As an aside, if I joined the military, that’s where I’d quite like to work. Brave as I am, I feel my archiving skills would be better than my fighting skills. Anyway, I digress. The building then became used as a home for the military museum in 1937, but they were moved out in 1961 and it was given to the Institute for the Protection of Cultural Monuments. I do wonder why such a lovely building that would make a fine museum has been given over to the organisation that likely hands out buildings that would make fine museums, but there we go.

  • Belgrade Trip – Belgrade Fortress (Views)

    Belgrade Trip – Belgrade Fortress (Views)

    Just photos of the view from the Belgrade Fortress. It’s evident why they built the fortress on a high point where two rivers meet, but this always proved to be a defensive challenge for the occupiers. As an aside that I hadn’t realised, this is effectively where the First World War began on 28 July 1914 when the Austro-Hungarians attacked Serbia at this point.

    20240910_103458

    20240910_103500

    20240910_103601

    20240910_103604

    20240910_103907

    20240910_103909

    20240910_103913

    20240910_103955

    20240910_103958

    20240910_104139

    20240910_104155

  • Belgrade Trip – Stefan Lazarevic the Despot Statue

    Belgrade Trip – Stefan Lazarevic the Despot Statue

    20240910_104939

    Many things in this world puzzle me, and one of these conundrums is why a man known as a despot is revered within the Serbian Orthodox Church and has a rather nice little statue of him within Belgrade Fortress. This mystery was solved when I discovered that in many parts of the Balkans, the word ‘despot’ used to be bestowed on the sons of reigning emperors. The word meaning has changed somewhat since the eighteenth century, but this has also happened with the words ‘dictator’ and ‘tyrant’ which now have negative connotations.

    Back to Stefan (1377-1427), who we (well, I) now discover is something of a hero to many Serbians. To them, he used the periods of peace to help build Belgrade up militarily, economically, politically and socially, so he’s seen as something of a reformer. He was also something of a supporter of the arts and a writer himself, he sounds quite the modern man. Interestingly, on the Serbian Wikipedia, he’s known as Stefan the Despot, but on the English version he’s known as Stefan the Tall. I can see why I might have got the wrong first impression here.

    Anyway, if either of my two loyal blog readers are interested, there’s lots more about him on Wikipedia.

  • Belgrade Trip – Pobednik (Victor Monument)

    Belgrade Trip – Pobednik (Victor Monument)

    20240910_104104

    Located within the Belgrade Fortress, this is the not inconsiderable Victor monument which stands where the Rivers Danube and Sava meet. Incidentally, I thought that the statue leaning was more evidence simply of my photographic prowess, but it is genuinely leaning which is sub-optimal for the city engineers. Like many things in the city, there were lots of arguments about this monument and where it was going to go. Designed by Ivan Meštrović, it’s not of any one particular person, it instead represents some sort of mythical being who has won the war and is now leading the city into peace. The monument wasn’t meant to be placed here (it was instead meant to be at Terazije which is in the city centre), but there were arguments that the lack of clothing meant it wasn’t suitable in case ladies looked at it, so it’s been moved out here.

    As a quick timeline, the idea for such a moment came in 1913 following the Serbian victory in the First Balkan War when the Ottomans were defeated. The Hercules type statue was designed, but then World War One broke out and that caused somewhat of a delay, even when the conflict was over. Eventually, the monument was delivered to the city in 1923 and it was then put in a shed for four years whilst the authorities worked out where to put it. Bored of argument, a final decision was made in 1927 and this is where the monument was plonked down.

    20240910_104135

    There he is, defending Belgrade. The monument is cracked and the whole lot has had to be repaired several times to stop it falling down, but it looks quite majestic today.

    20240910_104208

    And that’s the view that he’s looking out onto. Some have suggested he isn’t guarding the city, but simply after all of the arguments the authorities wanted it looking away from the city centre so they didn’t have to look at him. Either which way, it’s quite an impressive monument.

  • Belgrade Trip – Belgrade Fortress (Zindan Gate)

    Belgrade Trip – Belgrade Fortress (Zindan Gate)

    20240910_102734

    Once again, I won’t be winning any awards for photography with the blurry photos, but it was raining for the entire time that I was at the Belgrade Fortress which has led to some (well, quite a lot) sub-optimal imagery. Belgrade Fortress has one of the most challenging histories to unpick given how many times it has been raided, besieged, stormed, attacked and so on, but this is the Zindan Gate or the ‘dungeon gate’.

    The gate was originally built by the Hungarians between 1440 and 1456 and was the first part of the fortress to be constructed with cannons in mind. It worked for a while, but then the Ottomans took the fortress in 1521, but they didn’t do much more with the gate because the frontline had moved on from Belgrade and they didn’t need to defend it. The Austrians decided to get a bit aggressive for a while, indeed hundreds of years, and it bounced between their occupation and the Ottomans who would take it back.

    20240910_102909

    The rear of the gate. Reminding me of the rather aspirational modernisation of Carcassonne Castle, the current design of the gate is modern and dates back to the 1938 restoration which gave it an appearance which it had never had. It’s possible to walk all around the gate and it has a more elevated position than might be evident from these photos.

    20240910_103039

    Views from the top of the gate over the River Danube. There’s a wooden bridge now in front of the gate, this is recent, but there was once a drawbridge designed to keep the ruffians out. Today, it’s one of the main entrances into the Belgrade Fortress, a large complex which is free of charge to enter and there are plenty of interpretation boards to help explain the history of the site.

  • Belgrade Trip – Bora Todorović Mural

    Belgrade Trip – Bora Todorović Mural

    20240910_123419

    I’m not going to pretend that I knew that Bora Todorović was a famous Serbian actor, but there’s a Wikipedia page which gives more information about his life. I just liked the mural, the quality is really eye-catching and it’s pleasing that no-one has vandalised it, especially given that there was lots of graffiti elsewhere down the street. It was painted by the Grobarski treš romanticism group and I’ve seen more of what I assume are their artworks dotted around Belgrade. All very lovely.

  • Belgrade Trip – Other Highlights at Belgrade Zoo

    Belgrade Trip – Other Highlights at Belgrade Zoo

    I’ve wittered on already about the alligator, the snakes , the hippos and the lack of space at Belgrade Zoo, but it was an interesting place and only cost around £5 to get in. The ticket desk accepts cards, but a school group had decided to wait just in front of the ticket desk, which meant it was quite a battle to actually get to the kiosk and by that point the staff member had given up selling tickets as there was a school group cluttering up the area. After solving that little conundrum, mainly by standing there looking confused, I was handed a receipt and I was good to go.

    20240910_110043

    I wasn’t entirely convinced that the single wire fence between me and that tiger was absolutely adequate to protect me. There was also ample opportunity for kids to shove their hands through, but what could possibly go wrong there?

    20240910_110431

    Perhaps looking just a bit bored?

    20240910_110519

    It was hard to identify which way up this orangutan was meant to go….

    20240910_110952

    The wolf spent a lot of time prowling around following the same route, although I’m not sure what other options he had.

    20240910_111201

    I think this was the largest enclosure in the zoo. It’s not exactly the sweeping plains of Africa.

    20240910_113201

    A big bird, which I think is a condor.

    20240910_115030

    Aaahhhhh…..

    20240910_115228

    Majestic.

    20240910_115805

    Some wet camels.

    20240910_115931

    Very cute, I think it’s a wallaby.

    20240910_120033

    A happy little soul.

    20240910_120423

    The zebra looked quite perky.

    20240910_120621

    As did the penguin.

    20240910_120734

    Wherever zookeepers put a box, the cats will sit in it. Or they might have just been trying to keep dry under the tree.

    20240910_120738

    It’d make a cute pet (and I think it liked me), but I suspect it might be difficult to manage on flights. The zoo gave the fun fact that cheetahs are the only ones of the big cats that can’t fully retract their claws.

    20240910_121747

    I liked watching the flamingos go sauntering by…..

    And that was that, a perfectly entertaining way to spend 90 minutes or so. It was quiet, which wasn’t a surprise give the kids are at school, it was raining and it was a weekday in September.

  • Belgrade Trip – Belgrade Zoo, Visitor Behaviour and is There Sufficient Space?

    Belgrade Trip – Belgrade Zoo, Visitor Behaviour and is There Sufficient Space?

    20240910_115725

    Zoos have a problem, they can do great good in education, in breeding programmes and conservation efforts. But, they also have to ensure the well-being of the animals they are caring for, and there were some evident problems here. I remember going to a couple of zoos in China and was genuinely shocked by how visitors were feeding the animals any old rubbish they could find out of their bags, with no-one seeming to care. I particularly remember one bear begging for food, it all felt sub-optimal. Anyway, back to Belgrade and these goats (or whatever they are) were minding their own business when a visitor broke off a piece of branch from the hedge and starting feeding the animals. A zookeeper walked by and didn’t say anything, but I suspect this is common as there are signs not to touch the hedge and not to feed the animals.

    20240910_113332

    This lion had it tough too. A series of visitors were banging to get her attention and then taking photos with their flash on. Again, there are signs saying no photos using flash, but they’re ignored. I visited on a rainy weekday in September, I can imagine that some animals must be suffering somewhat if this is repeated multiple times per day.

    20240910_114127

    I was also wondering whether some of these animals had enough space. This was the size of the hippo enclosure, it doesn’t feel ideal for two hippos.

    20240910_120953

    And the parrots didn’t seem overwhelmed with space either. In fairness to the zoo, TripAdvisor marks the zoo as “meets animal welfare guidelines” but the standards for this seem very low.

    The zoo was first built in 1936 and there have been numerous efforts recently to progress a project to build a larger zoo on a new site in the city. I suspect they really need the space, they’ve welcoming over 400,000 visitors a year to this site and it’s really not very large. The zoo is getting a lot of negative reviews about their facilities, it seems inevitable that a new zoo will be opened at some stage, no doubt as soon as funding is sorted out.

  • Belgrade Trip – Belgrade Zoo and Snakes

    Belgrade Trip – Belgrade Zoo and Snakes

    20240910_114323

    I don’t like snakes. It’s nothing personal and I don’t want them hurt (well, unless they’re attacking me) but they always look shifty to me. I’m quite content with their natural habitat being behind glass, so this whole zoo arrangement is perfect for me. I can look at them and they can’t attack me, or at least, as long as the zoo-keeper is competent. This is a boa constrictor and they can live for 30 years shuffling around in Central and Southern America. The zoo have a fun fact which is that these snakes have two lungs, one is a small nonfunctional one and the other is large and very functional, all designed by evolution to fit into their bodies.

    20240910_114338

    A Burmese python and apparently (I’m just reading this from the zoo’s display boards, I don’t claim to be a snake expert and that isn’t something I’d want to be really as I’d have to look at them a lot) they can live for 20 years if they get lucky. They were once just in southeastern Asia, but some people in the United States decided they’d make a lovely snake and then some escaped and now they’ve an invasive species to Florida.

    20240910_114350

    A reticulated python and the zoo notes that these are amongst the few snakes that prey on humans. It’s the world’s longest snake and the damn thing can swim, so they have been found some way out in the water.

    20240910_114415

    A corn snake and these are one of the most commonly kept snakes as a pet. I have no idea why someone would want one of these in their house. But, each to their own, I suppose not everyone wants a furry pet they can cuddle.

    20240910_114436

    My two loyal blog readers can pat themselves on the back if they guessed that this was an Honduran Milk Snake. As it looks like a coral snake, lots of predators stay away from it. Reading up on this, I’ve discovered you can keep one of these as a pet, but it must be kept alone otherwise it might eat the other snake.

    20240910_114451

    This Californian Kingsnake is treating its water bowl as something it should sit underneath.

    20240910_114624

    This horrible thing (yes, this is a verbal attack on snakes) is a black-headed Python. I mean, perhaps he’s lovely and I shouldn’t judge, but this one was on manoeuvres and he spent a lot of time eyeing me up as prey I thought.

    20240910_114636

    See? Definitely didn’t like me. These snakes are from northern Australia and can be kept as a snake, but apparently it’s a premium priced one and they don’t come cheap. Personally, I think I’ll save my money for craft beer….

    It was all nicely laid out in the zoo’s reptile enclosure, although that’s enough snakes for me for September….