Category: Dublin

  • Dublin – Against the Grain

    Dublin – Against the Grain

    There isn’t really a vast amount of different options for craft beer drinkers in Dublin, although the situation is rapidly improving with bars such as Brewdog opening up. One chain that came up was the Galway Bay Brewery which was established in 2009 and has a number of locations around the Republic of Ireland which are proud to sell craft beer. It was a bit of a walk to go and visit it, but I thought that it would likely be worth it.

    We arrived on a Friday evening and it wasn’t clear if we’d be able to get in given the number of people out in Dublin, but a friendly member of staff at the door offered a warm welcome and found a table for us. They complied with all of the health requirements and scanned my NHS app to show I’d been double vaccinated.

    In short, this is an exceptionally well run pub which is beautifully on-trend as far as I’m concerned. The beer menu is on chalkboards above the bar and also available by using QR codes on the table. The staff members were efficient, knowledgeable and personable, making for a comfortable visit.

    I couldn’t decide which beer to have, so I had three, as that’s the most sensible option when I’m not sure what to do. From right to left, these are the Buried at Sea from Galway Bay Brewery (who also own the pub), the Of Foam and Fury from the same brewery and the Nitro Stout from Bru Brewery who have apparently gone out of business over the last few weeks. The Of Foam and Fury was of particular note, an 8.5% DIPA with a variety of hops which had a real body to it and plenty of flavour.

    The vibe inside the pub felt inviting, with a sense of atmosphere without the feel that there might soon be a riot. The pub is well reviewed and also serves food, which we would have likely been tempted by if we hadn’t just visited the Brazen Head. I noted one of the few negative reviews which said:

    “Apparently asking for a Corona for my wife is against his morals or something. I work in a micro brewery, people like him give craft a bad name #snowflake”

    It’s handy when people put snowflake at the end of their review, as I can then immediately identify where the problem lies without needing to know anything more. We were so pleased (by this I think I mean that I was so pleased, and Liam didn’t disagree to save time) by this visit that we sought out a couple more bars in the chain, more of which in later posts. Very pleased with this visit and there were plenty of staff around for customers who wanted to order more drinks.

  • Dublin – Dublin Zoo

    Dublin – Dublin Zoo

    And another post of mostly photos….. I have been to Dublin Zoo before, but it was years ago and I’ve forgotten most of it. We pre-purchased tickets on-line so that Liam and I could explore the site and were a little disappointed to find out on arrival that all of the indoor areas were closed. That meant no snakes….

    There’s a one-way system in place around the zoo so it isn’t possible to double back at all to see any animals that might initially be hiding. Liam and I were getting pre-annoyed at this (well, I was, Liam seems to be nearly impossible to annoy) as I was thinking we might have paid an admission fee to see a pheasant, a zebra and a cow. I accept that zebras are lovely, but I wanted some variety to the proceedings.

    Fortunately, we weren’t disappointed and it took us three hours to meander around the zoo’s sort of clearly laid out one-way system. There was very little we felt that we didn’t see, just snakes and the hippos, but that’s not bad in the circumstances. The highlights were the gorilla sitting just a short distance away, the wolf that I think liked me (I wanted to keep him) and the chimps that were playing on their island. There were also lots of light decorations around the park which must have cost a fortune, but added to the spectacle somewhat and would look spectacular at night.

    So, a very enjoyable way to spend a few hours and we were pleased that we went. The zoo does lots for conservation and they’re proud of their work, which is described on numerous boards around the site. The one-way system was just slightly confusing in places, but not so much as to become annoying. The zoo seemed to have balanced quite well having sufficient visitors to make money whilst not overloading the park making it difficult to see anything.

  • Dublin – Mulligan’s

    Dublin – Mulligan’s

    I visited this pub a few years ago, but I thought that Liam would want to visit one of the most traditional pubs in Dublin this weekend. We tried to get into this pub on the Saturday evening, but they were full, so we visited on Sunday afternoon and we managed to be the first customers in for the day.

    Not quite as atmospheric as the previous evening when the pub was full, but the barman was welcoming and conversational, so it all felt inviting. The barman scanned our NHS Covid passes successfully and mentioned that this was changing soon as the rules in Ireland are being relaxed next week. As I’ve mentioned elsewhere, there’s something quite convenient for customers in being welcomed at the entrance though…..

    Lots of heritage here and once frequented by James Joyce, the pub has been at this Poolbeg Street location since 1854, although it has been expanded a couple of times. There’s no television or other modern distractions, although the pub does now take credit and debit cards, so there’s some progress. As for modernisation, there’s no point moving towards the craft beer market and on-trend interiors, this is a pub which is based on Guinness, conversation and crisps. OK, perhaps not the crisps, but they do sell them and I think that’s pretty much the only food offering here.

    We went for a pint of Guinness each, which was reasonably priced, was at the appropriate temperature and tasted just as it should. The reviews on-line are all generally very positive, mostly mentioning the engaging service, the quality of the Guinness and the heritage of the surroundings. There have only ever been four 1-star ratings on TripAdvisor for this pub and two of them relate to a different venue with the same name, showing just how bloody useless that web-site is…. Anyway all really rather lovely and I can see why John F Kennedy is said to have enjoyed his visit here and I like the thought of him walking towards the bar.

  • Dublin – The Brazen Head

    Dublin – The Brazen Head

    I’ve never been to this Dublin pub before in my past visits to the city, which the owners claim is the oldest in the country. The claims that it has been a pub since 1198 are quite fanciful, but these have at least definitely been licensed premises since the mid-seventeenth century. There’s more information about the pub and its history on Wikipedia, which is probably as good an introductory resource as any other on this matter.

    The pub is very well reviewed on-line and so Liam and I decided to go there after our little visit to the Guinness Storehouse, as even if the oldest pub claim is questionable, there’s still plenty of heritage here.

    There are lots of banknotes attached to the pillars and ceiling, mostly American, and I can see why this atmosphere appeals to those from the United States (not least because it appeals to me).

    Slightly dark, cluttered and packed with atmosphere, even on a Friday afternoon. Nice, there was no shortage of traditional Irish pub feel here, suitable for locals and visitors. It was also a sizeable pub, so although it was busy internally and externally, it’s worth turning up to try and get a table. The pub doesn’t take bookings for group sizes of under four, so we did as they suggested and just turned up. We were taken to a seat in front of the bar by a friendly man at the main door (who was a staff member, I realise that might sound like a random person just pointed us towards a table), it was suitable for our needs and I liked that I could easily see the options at the bar. We didn’t have to wait outside at all, although there was a queue by the time that we were leaving.

    We had looked at the menu on-line in advance (which was very efficient of us), so we were ready with our orders. The staff in the pub were friendly and engaging throughout, it was a welcome and comfortable environment.

    The pub had some beers by Rye River Brewing and although the beer list we were given didn’t mention a stout from this brewery, I asked about it as I could see it on the bar. The staff member checked for me and they did indeed have this Eventide Irish Stout, which was new on in the pub and seems also to be something recent for the brewery itself as I was only the ninth person to add it on Untappd. It was a decent beer, a little creamier than Guinness, although that was available as well for the customers who wanted it.

    I went for the fish and chips, with that smear of peas looking slightly odd perhaps. However, looks are deceptive, they were some of the best tasting peas that I’ve had, with the chips being rather delicious, firm on the exterior and fluffy inside. The fish had a rich tasting batter and the fish itself was appropriately cooked and the tartare sauce was I think homemade. I should probably dwell on those peas though, my food knowledge isn’t good enough to know what they’ve done to make them so moreish…..

    Liam’s sausage and mash, which he said was also really rather lovely. The cuisine here is certainly above average and there were no shortage of other customers ordering food, with everything brought out promptly.

    I’m not normally a dessert person, but we felt that we deserved a little treat and so we had a Baileys cheesecake each, served with compote and ice cream. The pub only serves two different desserts and they were both tempting options, with the other being a chocolate fudge cake.

    I looked through the reviews, which are some of the best for any pub in the city, and I liked the:

    “Complained and mentioned that we were not tourists and stressed that the chef must be informed”.

    I’m not sure that the chef was informed…. I mention this as I thought it was evident during our visit that tourists and locals were treated the same way. Although another review was posted which said “The staff is rude….they hate Americans” which seems unlikely to be true….

    “After a long day on excursions, we came across this pub. The place was packed!!!!! We tried to go in and wait for a table (which you do by yourself, with no help from a host or anything…)”

    This 1/5 review was posted by an American in early March 2020, just before the crisis started to unfold. It’s interesting as there is compulsory table service in Dublin at the moment, which makes things much easier at busy pubs such as this for the reason that this reviewer alluded to. I rather hope that some form of helping customers to find a table is maintained to some degree in the future across the hospitality industry. Another review said:

    “We were shocked that after singing together some Irish and Scottish folk songs, one of our party when going to bar again was told none of our party were getting served again. It seems sing-songs are not liked or permitted in this bar”.

    Good, I like the pub even more now. Otherwise, reviews are pretty standard, but there are a few claiming that the staff were hateful that I somewhat suspect was the Irish humour that has been misinterpreted by the individual….

    The prices weren’t the cheapest, but this was an excellent visit and met our expectations. I liked the environment, the service and the food and drink, with the historical atmosphere adding positively to the whole arrangement. I’d definitely go back again, although I imagine that this pub can often get very busy, and we were suitably pleased with our choice.

  • Dublin – 16 and 41 Buses from Dublin Airport to the City Centre

    Dublin – 16 and 41 Buses from Dublin Airport to the City Centre

    Firstly, for those who are quite decadent there are the premium services offered by Dublin Express and Aircoach which take passengers from the airport to the city centre, and to other locations, quickly and efficiently. However, for the rest of us, there are local bus services which are more affordably priced. These can be reached by leaving the front of Terminal 1 and then walking through the car park, ignoring the signs for the more expensive coaches.

    The only problem is that the service only takes coins and not notes or cards. In years gone by I’ve managed to buy a ticket via a machine at the bus stop in Dublin, but that’s now turned off. Fortunately, I had enough Euro coins for Liam and I to ensure that we could get on, but we didn’t have enough for the journey back. It seems that the Dublin transport authorities know that their payment options are some of the worst in modern European cities and the whole process is going to be modernised over the next couple of years. The current set-up really isn’t ideal…..

    The bus driver was friendly and we positioned ourselves at the back of the coach into the city centre, which took around 45 minutes. It’s not the quickest option, but it is the cheapest at €3.30 each for a single journey, with the coach being clean. It didn’t get that busy and so remained comfortable.

    And that’s the bus leaving O’Connell Street after it got us into the centre quickly….. Buying tickets really does need improving, at the moment for tourists there’s only the option of cash (coins only, no notes with no change being provided) or a Leap Card, which it is expected will be phased out over the next decade.

    As an aside, we didn’t want to buy a Leap Card for the journey back, as that’s quite expensive for a single use, nor was it going to be easy to get my €10 note changed into coins to use on the bus. So we walked the 4.5 miles to the airport hotel the night before our flight…..

  • Dublin – Number of Irish Pubs

    A fascinating fact from the EPIC Irish Emigration museum in Dublin….. Which I incidentally think is confusing as there are around 7,000 pubs in Ireland, so this must mean the number of Irish pubs who have signed up to the Global Irish Pubs Directory. Which suggests the Global Irish Pubs Directory isn’t signing up very many Irish pubs in Ireland.

    So, more a confusing fact than a fascinating one perhaps…

  • Dublin – Red Squirrel on Tara Street

    I didn’t realise the concept behind this mural on a wall on Tara Street when I saw it, I just thought it was a spectacular piece of artwork. The concept is that it’s primarily made of rubbish, as in literally, which has been discarded in the city.

    The designer is Artur Bordalo and the reason for the image being a red squirrel is that they’re under threat because their habitation is changing and the grey squirrel is vastly outnumbering them. Bordalo is a Portuguese artist who says that “I create, recreate, assemble and develop ideas with end-of-life material and try to relate it to sustainability, ecological and social awareness.”

  • Dublin – Abbey Court Frontage

    I have nothing to say about this other than I like the effort made to decorate the frontage of the building (which is a youth hostel) and it certainly stands out. The artwork is apparently by Brutto, an artist from Rio de Janeiro who currently lives in Dublin.

  • Dublin – Ha’penny Bridge

    The city’s ha’penny bridge which was built over the River Liffey in Dublin in 1816. It was originally known as the Wellington Bridge, which the locals would be unlikely to entirely appreciate now. I say appreciate now, but it seems the locals didn’t even appreciate the name at the time, and it was rarely used. The Duke of Wellington was born in Dublin, but colonial links made that a difficult name to use after Irish independence and in 1922 the bridge was renamed the Liffey Bridge.

    The bridge was cast in Shropshire and is 43 metres long and 3.6 metres wide. The bridge takes its informal name from the ha’penny toll which was allowed to be charged for 100 years to enable the construction of the project to be paid for.

    The bridge from the other side…. The authorities have had problems with people placing love locks on the bridge which is causing problems with the structural integrity of the crossing, and any locks are removed. There has been a recent restoration of the bridge, although it’s estimated that around 85% of the metalwork is original.

    And a seagull.

  • Dublin – Fake Frontage at Ormond Quay

    I tried to find out the backstory to this frontage, but the only architectural web-site I could find mentioned that this area was new build and the building had a fake frontage to enable it to fit into the local area. Situated looking out onto the River Liffey it’s an intriguing sight with the pillars and empty windows. But, to be honest, I can’t entirely see the point in keeping a frontage if there’s no effort made to keep anything behind it.