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  • Maldon – Rose and Crown Pub (JD Wetherspoon)

    Maldon – Rose and Crown Pub (JD Wetherspoon)

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    As Liam and I were coming back from London we did our usual thing of visiting a pub from the JD Wetherspoon chain which I haven’t visited before. The Rose and Crown, located on the town’s main road of the High Street has the bonus of being a Good Beer Guide listed pub to add to my little collection.

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    The pub was operated by Punch Taverns until 2013, but was taken over by JD Wetherspoon in 2014 (opening in June 2015 after they had spent £1.6 million on the redevelopment) and they did an extensive amount of archaeological work and they’ve put a lot of that on-line, once again one of the few pub companies that takes the heritage of their venues very seriously. The structural heart of the building is from the sixteenth century, but it was extensively remodelled in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. It has been a licensed premises since around the 1780s, although there’s not a vast amount of information I can find about its history over recent decades.

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    Part of the beer selection, there were a choice of six different ales when I visited, although there were no darker beers. I liked they must have got bored when putting the little jars with colour samples of the beer in front of the taps.

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    The rest of the bar and advertising that from this week they’re selling 1664 and Poretti, although it’s unlikely I could taste these riveting lagers from each other. Anyway, there’s something for everyone….

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    A taster of the Midnight Bell beer from Leeds Brewery which I’ve had before a few times, a dark and malty ale which is rather agreeable.

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    Half a pint of the Copper Cascade from Stewart Brewing, which I haven’t had before, but was clean, malty, refreshing and it had a slight taste of toffee.

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    The side of the pub and there’s a beer garden at the rear. The staircase to the toilets is quite narrow and relatively steep, I suspect they must have found it quite a challenge to insert that sensitively into the historic building and there are numerous low ceilings dotted around the place that taller customers need to be careful of.

    Since this is a JD Wetherspoon venue, I thought I’d see if there were any reviews that would surprise and delight me. The pub is rated towards the higher end of the spectrum for pubs in the chain and I got a positive vibe about the arrangements. It wasn’t spotlessly clean, but the team members were friendly and engaging.

    “Used to be good, I do believe it’s a case of which manager is on, my order was taken correctly then on two occasions it’s came out wrong , had to watch my friends eat , 25 mins later mine comes out. I didn’t eat it as i felt awkward and stressed because of service. No refund given, shame”

    I wouldn’t have felt awkward….

    “the pub not very comfortable Atmospheric should really be sold on to a freeholders that runs a grate pub with brilliant food and can attract the best out of people not the worst catal grid experience roll on new owners good bye nice but dim tim the present owner”

    Hmmmm.

    “Staff are dreadful. One of them is a complete liar & behaves inappropiateley. Dreadful place.”

    I wish people would give more information when they post reviews like this, a bit of drama is always exciting.

    “Rubbish beer, rubbish service by surly children. There are far better pubs in Maldon, spend a bit more and enjoy those instead of this place.”

    Rubbish beer? Hmmmm.

    “I had to take the seal of the source”

    I don’t know how some people manage to be so brave.

    “Full of men”

    Occasionally this happens in any pub….

    “Didn’t go there”

    Very helpful.

    “My partner food had aluminium foil stuck on the bottom of it, do your staff know how dangerous Ingestion of aluminium foil is !!!!!!! Perhaps Tim Martin would like to reply”

    Tim Martin didn’t reply and there was a photo of the foil which was an absolutely tiny piece. And it’s not dangerous at all, it’s non-toxic.

    Anyway, I digress once again. I liked this pub, it had a sense of history to it, the team members were friendly and the beers were well-kept. We didn’t have a need to eat on this occasion, but the food coming out look well presented and everything felt well managed.

  • Warsaw – View of the City from 1850

    Warsaw – View of the City from 1850

    Slightly randomly, as is the central theme of this blog, I rather liked this view of Warsaw from around 1850 as I hadn’t seen it before. Created by Adam Pilinsky, it’s from the Praga side (or east bank) of the city looking into the central area that is now known as the Old Town.

  • London – Tower Hamlets (Borough of) – Sand Pit at East India Dock

    London – Tower Hamlets (Borough of) – Sand Pit at East India Dock

    As another one of my random asides, I often stay at the Travelodge at Docklands and it’s located in the top right of this map from the 1870s. One thing that I saw yesterday, which is a new addition, is a sand pit which is located to the bottom left of where the dock was.

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    I mean, what could possibly go wrong with this?

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    As an aside, what the dock area looks like now and there are already lots of residential properties and more are being constructed. There’s a new restaurant opening soon and a new Tesco Express, what more could a community want?

  • Ridgeway – Day 2 (Lamb Inn)

    Ridgeway – Day 2 (Lamb Inn)

    [I originally posted this in June 2018, but have reposted it to fix some broken image links]

    So, we left on morning two of our adventure from the Lamb Inn in Marlborough. I felt that the stay had been positive as the staff were friendly, the pub was clean and the environment was quiet. It was a shame that they weren’t currently doing food in the evening, but the Green Dragon kept us entertained.

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    I thought that the breakfast was lovely, crispy bacon, tasty sausage, well cooked egg and beans. Bev complained obviously, but not a lot. Sorry, that makes her sound like Paul Daniels. The mushrooms were surplus to my requirements and were despatched promptly to Dave. The pub didn’t ask how we wanted the eggs cooked or whether wanted every component part of the meal, but the service was efficient, polite and welcoming, so that sufficed for me.

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    I had to have Coco Pops, to watch the milk go chocolatey  🙂

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    The exterior of the pub.

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    Before breakfast Dave, Steve and myself had popped to the little bakers on the High Street to get some provisions for the day. We were very impressed with the quality of the food and drink. I’d go there again.

  • Ridgeway – Day 2 (Shuttling About)

    Ridgeway – Day 2 (Shuttling About)

    [I originally posted this in June 2018, but have reposted it to fix the broken image link]

    Maggie was kind enough to pick five of us from Marlborough from where we were staying. We claimed that it was because it was most efficient time-wise, but it was actually because we couldn’t be bothered to walk.

    No, that’s not the Queen Mother or the Pope waving from the back seat, it’s Bev.

  • Ridgeway – Day 2 (Summary)

    Ridgeway – Day 2 (Summary)

    [I originally posted this in June 2018 but have reposted it to fix some broken image links]

    DISTANCE WALKED: 19.6 miles

    BRAVEST PERSON: Julian (for exceptional bravery in the heat) and Steve (for exceptional bravery with hayfever)

    QUOTE OF THE DAY: “Susanna won’t share with me now that I’ve spoiled her stone myth” – Steve  “They don’t call me donkey Dave for nothing” – Dave  “Gordon is going nowhere near my thumb” – Dave   “My thumb is above average” – Dave   “What’s going on between your legs Bev?” – Julian   “I like nuts. But not Andrew’s” – Susanna   “I can’t even use that in the blog, it’s beyond the pale” – Julian   “No, get a shot now before the meal, spice it up” – Dave   “Mine was conceived on a bar stool” – Susanna    “What goes on in High Barn stays in High Barn” – Steve M   “Just don’t tell Andrew” – Bev   “Suddenly Steve’s head went down” – Dave   “I’ll help you in ” – Steve M   “Our bathroom is shared” – Maggie “Do you knock once for a cup of tea, twice for something else?” – Dave  “We’ll just wang out the back” – Dave


    Well that was an emotional day. We started off with breakfast in our pub, which was excellent. Well, I thought it was excellent with a full English and cereals. Bev complained about the egg, the bacon and the sausage. I thought the sausage was delicious and enjoyed half of Bev’s sausage.

    Maggie was kind enough to drive us back from Marlborough back to the path, which meant two separate trips. We started off walking along the route and it was nice that the temperature was lower than yesterday. Steve struggled with hayfever, but he was very brave and only mentioned it a couple of times. He’s a real role model for Bev.

    Bev complained quite a lot. Mainly towards the end of the day, but not exclusively. I can’t post this on the blog as it’s 18-rated and not X-rated, but Bev explained what she has done at Wayland’s Smithy. Honestly, I was shocked. And then that led to a revelation about what Maggie liked doing outside.

    Fortunately, Dave, Steve and myself had gone to Greggs. Bev and Susanna spent 45 minutes in Waitrose and bought a lot of middle class produce. But that meant at least I had a delicious Greggs spicy chicken roll at lunch-time and that was excellent.

    We went to look at the Uffington White Horse and Bev guided us towards where it was. After that guiding I then guided us to where it was, and it was an impressive site. Well, what we could see of it. But, Bev found a penny from 1908 and she kindly donated it to me, so she was flavour of the hour.

    The white horse was impressive because of its location in the surrounding landscape. Susanna spoke a load of gibberish about standing stones and Bev remorsefully mocked here for several hours.

    But the highlight of the day was the pebble that Bev wanted everyone to see. Now, I liked it, but there was a lot of angry people at Bev. It was an historic stone though that was of local importance, and was worth seeing. It’s known as the Blowing Stone and is a sarsen stone with numerous holes in, which is capable of making loud sounds if blown correctly.

    The last hour of the day was walking to the hotel, which was off the main route and to be honest, I could hear Bev 200 yards away complaining. Susanna meanwhile went diving into a bush.

    As for the evening meal, well, that was a drunken mess. Seven people, fifty shots and lots of great food, what could possibly go wrong? Well, quite a lot….. More on that will be detailed in my posts about day two that I’ll make tomorrow….

  • Ridgeway – Day 1 (Julian’s History Walk)

    Ridgeway – Day 1 (Julian’s History Walk)

    [I originally posted this in June 2018, but have reposted it to fix the broken image links]

    What more could the group want after a lovely meal and drink than a lovely little walk around Marlborough? I thought we could have a 45-minute walk around the town, even though it transpired to be two hours. But that just shows how rather exciting my walk was.

    I pinched the walk from the Marlborough town web-site and it was a tour of the blue plaques of the town. I rated the walk as 10 out 10, and Bev only complained three times, so that showed just how good it was.

    The highlight for me was discovering that Thomas Wolsey was ordained in the town’s church in March 1498, so I was rather impressed with that. We also went to look at Marlborough School and the security guard ran out to see what all the noise was about.

    I didn’t like how former gravestones had been used as a pathway outside the church, eroding them away so that they’re lost for future generations.

    I was pleased to have visited the town though, so much history and some rather interesting courtyards and rows which went to the back of the properties. Much was lost in the town’s great fire, but the rebuilding that took place is mostly still there.

    Below are some photos of the walk.

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  • Ciechanów – Choo Choo Train

    Ciechanów – Choo Choo Train

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    This is a narrow-gauge locomotive from 1957, a legacy of the need to Poland’s heavily damaged transport infrastructure rolling stock quickly and efficiently following the damage done during the Second World War. Minimising development time and utilising existing, reliable engineering principles allowed Fablok (then operating under the name Fabryka Lokomotyw im. F. Dzierżyńskiego ) to initiate mass production relatively swiftly. This locomotive was linked to the Ciechanów Sugar Factory (Cukrownia Ciechanów) which was a significant industrial enterprise in the city for over a century. Its establishment in 1882 coincided with a period of notable industrial growth in Ciechanów, which also saw the founding of a brewery in 1864 and the arrival of the standard-gauge Vistula River Railroad in 1877.

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    The front of the locomotive. Following the cessation of regular narrow-gauge operations and the closure of lines like those around Ciechanów, the Narrow-Gauge Railway Museum in Sochaczew became the principal repository for withdrawn locomotives and rolling stock. Established formally in 1986 on the site of the former Sochaczew County Narrow Gauge Railway, the museum amassed one of Europe’s largest collections of narrow-gauge vehicles. This train was sent there, but was purchased by the authorities in Ciechanów in 2011 and it was installed at this site in 2018 after some repairs to the locomotive.

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    The translated text reads:

    “1896 – Construction of the railway line from Jawor to Chełmsko Śląskie begins (extended to Lubawka in 1899)
    1899 – Opening of the Lubawka – Krzeszów section
    1900 – Opening of the Krzeszów – Kamienna Góra section
    1945 – Railway taken over by PKP (Polish State Railways)
    1954 – Change of track gauge from 750 mm to 785 mm
    1960 – Closure of the Jawor – Chełmsko Śląskie section
    1979 – Suspension of passenger transport on the Kamienna Góra – Krzeszów – Lubawka route
    1986 – Closure of the Lubawka – Krzeszów section
    1988 – Closure of the Krzeszów – Kamienna Góra section
    1991 – Railway liquidation

    The Chełmsko narrow-gauge railway, initially steam-powered, reached from Jawor to the town of Ciechanów.”

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    Translated, this sign reads:

    “The narrow-gauge steam locomotive, series Px48, number 1784, from the Feliks Dzierżyński factory in Chrzanów, was produced in 1954. In Ciechanów, it worked on the sugar factory railway until 1993. After the liquidation of the sugar factory railway, it was transferred to the Museum of Narrow-Gauge Railways in Sochaczew. In 2011, it was repurchased by the city of Ciechanów and restored. It is currently exhibited on Sienkiewicza Street. In 2012, it was entered into the register of movable monuments.”

    It won’t surprise either of my two loyal blog readers to discover that I’m not an expert in redundant railway lines in Ciechanów, but the former line is evident from this overhead map.

  • Ciechanów – Ciechanów Castle (Memorial to Hanged Members of the Polish Home Army)

    Ciechanów – Ciechanów Castle (Memorial to Hanged Members of the Polish Home Army)

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    Located in the grounds of Ciechanów Castle, this is a memorial to four members of the Polish Home Army who were hanged here on 17 December 1942. The translation above refers to the “patriots hanged on the gallows” and the four killed were:

    Kazimierz Grzelak
    Zenobia Jelińska
    Tadeusz Jupecki
    Bolesław Noużykowski

    This was all a planned process and, on 17 December, German occupation authorities carried out simultaneous public executions by hanging in four key towns of the Regierungsbezirk Zichenau: Ciechanów, Mława, Przasnysz, and Pułtusk. These acts were not isolated incidents but part of a wider, centrally planned operation designed to decapitate the leadership structures of the Polish underground, specifically the Polish Home Army (Armia Krajowa – AK), and to terrorise the local Polish population into submission. The executions took place during a particularly harsh winter, marked by temperatures plummeting below -10°C, coinciding with German military setbacks on the Eastern Front and intensified, often brutal, requisitioning campaigns, such as the notorious collection of winter clothing (“zbiórka kożuchów”), from the Polish populace.

    The four individuals publicly executed by hanging in the courtyard of Ciechanów Castle on December 17, 1942, were confirmed members of the Polish Home Army , the dominant resistance organisation in occupied Poland that caused such havoc to Nazi occupation. Their names were Kazimiera Grzelak, Zenobia Jelińska (using the pseudonym “Teresa”), Tadeusz Jurecki (using the pseudonym “Wrona”), and Bolesław Nodzykowski (using the pseudonym “Mały”).

    Kazimiera Grzelak (1912-1942)

    Born in 1912 , Kazimiera Grzelak had roots in the Tarnów region, her mother hailing from Siemiechów. After completing commercial school in Krakow, she settled in Ciechanów in 1937. Before the war, she found employment working for Franciszek Trzeciak, the deputy Starost (county administrator) of Ciechanów. In 1939, she married Władysław Grzelak, a local Ciechanów butcher. Their daughter, Maria, was born in 1941. Almost from the beginning of the German occupation, Kazimiera and her husband joined the underground, initially the Związek Walki Zbrojnej (Union of Armed Struggle – ZWZ), which later formed the core of the Home Army (AK). Within the resistance structure, she served as a liaison officer (łączniczka) for the AK’s Ciechanów district. Some sources also identify her role as distributing underground press (kolporterka prasy). In late August 1942 , Gestapo officers raided the Grzelaks’ home on Płońska Street. Their arrest stemmed from betrayal as a Polish woman reportedly accompanied the Gestapo and pointed out their exact address. Kazimiera was separated from her husband and subjected to harsh interrogation and torture at the Gestapo facilities in Ciechanów and Płock. Accounts emphasise her remarkable resilience and she refused to divulge the names of fellow underground members, reportedly earning the grudging label “Twarda Polka” (Tough Polish Woman) from her German captors and she consciously took the blame herself in an attempt to shield her husband. I suspect that a lot of German Nazi officers were surprised and entirely not delighted by just how brave so many Poles were. Subsequently, she was imprisoned in the notorious Działdowo transit and concentration camp (KL Soldau). Her husband, Władysław, met a tragic fate, being sent first to KL Soldau, then to Auschwitz, and ultimately dying in the Dachau concentration camp in 1944.

    Zenobia Jelińska (1903-1942), ps. “Teresa”

    Born in 1903 , Zenobia Jelińska hailed from the nearby town of Przasnysz. Within the underground, she operated under the pseudonym “Teresa”. Her involvement in resistance activities predated the full formation of the AK. She was a member of the K-7 diversionary organisation, having received training in Modlin as early as May 1939, even before the outbreak of war. During the occupation, she served as a vital courier (kurierka) for the ZWZ-AK Przasnysz district, maintaining communication lines along the critical Przasnysz-Ciechanów route. Furthermore, she demonstrated leadership by heading her own women’s section within the local AK structure. Her active role placed her at significant risk, leading to her arrest on September 8, 1942. Like Grzelak, she was subsequently imprisoned in both Płock and the Działdowo camp (KL Soldau).

    Tadeusz Jurecki (1920-1942), ps. “Wrona”

    Tadeusz Jurecki was born in 1920 and came from Grudusk or the adjacent village of Pszczółki Szerszenie. He was a young man, identified as a student at the Gymnasium (secondary school) in Ciechanów. His chosen pseudonym in the underground was “Wrona” (Crow). Despite his youth, Jurecki held a position of significant responsibility within the local resistance network. Most sources identify him as the Head of Intelligence (Szef Wywiadu) for the Home Army’s Ciechanów district , although a few mention Head of Communications. His family was also involved in the resistance; his sister, Joanna Jurecka (who used the alias “Teresa,” potentially causing confusion with Zenobia Jelińska’s pseudonym), was also active. Tadeusz Jurecki was arrested by the Germans in August 1942.

    Bolesław Nodzykowski (1905-1942), ps. “Mały”

    Born on January 16, 1905 , Bolesław Nodzykowski was from Pułtusk. He used the alias “Mały” (Little One). Nodzykowski brought valuable military experience to the resistance. Before the war, he served as a non-commissioned officer (plutonowy, equivalent to sergeant) in the 13th Infantry Regiment (13 pp), which was garrisoned in Pułtusk. Leveraging his military background and connections within the former regiment and the local rural community, Nodzykowski became a key organiser of the underground in his area. He served as the Commandant (Komendant) of the ZWZ-AK Pułtusk District (Obwód Pułtusk, code-named “Pstrąg”) until his arrest in mid-1942. The Pułtusk AK district was noted for having a particularly high concentration of NCOs from the pre-war 13th Infantry Regiment among its members. Nodzykowski was arrested by the Gestapo on September 10, 1942. He was subsequently held in prisons in Pułtusk and Płock before being transferred to KL Soldau (Działdowo). For his service and sacrifice, Bolesław Nodzykowski was posthumously awarded the Cross of the Home Army (Krzyż Armii Krajowej).

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    This was explicitly intended as a “pokazowa egzekucja”, a show execution, designed to instill fear and deter any further resistance among the Polish population. To ensure maximum impact, German forces forcibly rounded up residents from Ciechanów and the surrounding villages, compelling them to witness the hangings. Accounts suggest a crowd of at least 2,000 people was assembled in the castle courtyard. Some reports mention the presence of the victims’ families , and one particularly harrowing, though perhaps difficult to verify precisely, account claims that Kazimiera Grzelak’s one-year-old daughter Maria was among the unwilling spectators. The atmosphere was described as one of profound cold, fear and tension, with witnesses reportedly murmuring curses against the perpetrators and prayers for the condemned

    Before the execution commenced, the formal verdict was read out, translated for the crowd, accusing the four AK members of engaging in conspiratorial work against the German state and collaborating with partisans. As they faced their final moments, the condemned displayed remarkable courage and patriotism in a way that so many Poles did during the Second World War. Eyewitness accounts consistently report that they issued a collective, defiant cry: “Niech żyje Polska!” (Long live Poland!). One account adds a grim detail: a German official allegedly kicked the plank or support from beneath their feet just as they began the second shout, cutting off the word “Polska” mid-utterance.

    A significant and well-documented incident occurred during the execution, involving a local Polish farmer named Roman Konwerski from the nearby village of Kąty. The Gestapo officer supervising the execution, identified by witnesses as Ernest Wolf (nicknamed “Kopikostka”), apparently decided to amplify the horror and humiliation by forcing a Pole to act as the executioner. He singled out Konwerski from the crowd and ordered him to place the nooses around the necks of the condemned. Konwerski, despite the immense pressure and danger, refused. His defiant words, “Braci swych wieszać nie będę!” (I will not hang my brothers!), echoed through the courtyard. This act of profound moral courage had immediate and severe consequences for Konwerski. He was instantly beaten by the Germans, arrested on the spot , and incarcerated in the police prison in Ciechanów. After enduring several weeks of brutal interrogation, he was deported, likely first to KL Auschwitz and then transferred to the Mauthausen-Gusen concentration camp complex. According to official records from the Arolsen Archives, Roman Konwerski was shot and killed in the camp on July 29, 1943, allegedly during an escape attempt – a common Nazi euphemism for murder.

    In the immediate aftermath of the execution, the bodies of Kazimiera Grzelak, Zenobia Jelińska, Tadeusz Jurecki and Bolesław Nodzykowski were treated with contempt. They were taken down and buried unceremoniously in a common grave at the local Jewish cemetery (kirkut). It was only after the war, in 1945, that their remains were exhumed and given a more dignified burial.

    There is an annual ceremony held on 17 December in the castle’s courtyard to remember the bravery and courage of these five Polish patriots, but it’s hard today to imagine the terrors that took place here.

  • Poland – PKP Railway Map from 1939

    Poland – PKP Railway Map from 1939

    As a random aside, I haven’t seen this map of the Polish PKP railway system from 1939 before. It’s always odd looking at maps like this as the country’s borders have shifted, but it’s an interesting piece of history….