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  • Munich – Munich Documentation Center for the History of National Socialism (No Jews in Libraries)

    Munich – Munich Documentation Center for the History of National Socialism (No Jews in Libraries)

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    I wasn’t surprised to read in the museum about how Jews were banned from libraries in Munich in the 1930s as their rights were so comprehensively stripped away from them, but I’m not sure that I’ve actually seen a sign being so clear that they were banned from accessing education in this way. The particular location referenced here was the Deutsches Museum library which is the largest of its type in the country and by 1932, it was known internationally for how it led the way in promoting reading, learning and understanding.

    The library doesn’t directly mention on its website about this ban on Jews being able to access the books, but they do note:

    “During the Nazi regime, the Deutsches Museum could only maintain its independence by making numerous concessions: Nazi functionaries were elected to the museum’s committees, a “Hall for Motor Vehicles” sponsored by Reich Chancellor Adolf Hitler opened in 1938, but above all the library building was used for several propaganda exhibitions, including the inflammatory show “The Eternal Jew”.”

    There are some regimes around the world which still attack libraries, hoping that denying education to those they seek to oppress will someone strengthen their own case and position. For anyone who loved books, learning and education it must have been traumatic to see that denied to them.

  • Munich – Munich Documentation Center for the History of National Socialism (Painting of Maria and Georg Pöltl)

    Munich – Munich Documentation Center for the History of National Socialism (Painting of Maria and Georg Pöltl)

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    This painting is one of the items in the “Memory Is” collection which is on display at the museum until May 2026. The painting, by Karoline Wittmann, shows her sister Maria and her sister’s son, Georg. Georg had been born in 1928 and opposed the regime and was sympathetic to the suffering that he saw the Jews were enduring, secretly wearing a Star of David on his undershirt. The museum describes him as a “rebellious spirit” and it’s evident that he wasn’t what the Germans considered to be a well-behaved young man. However, Georg’s father had been killed in Ukraine in 1943 and his mother was required to do wartime labour.

    In February 1945, he and a friend entered a bombed out villa in Bogenhausen and got drunk on bottles that they found in the wine cellar. The police arrested them but as there was no space in Munich’s prisons by that time, he was sent to Dachau concentration camp and thrown into Barrack 27. His bereft mother took him food parcels in the attempt to help and protect him, but it’s not thought that they ever got through to him. She and Karoline went to Dachau on 10 April 1945 and the authorities admitted that Georg had died on 3 April 1945 and they claimed he had died of blood poisoning and that he had been cremated, giving his mother some of his ashes. The camp was overrun by typhus and famine at the time, it was likely that this combination is what made Georg unwell.

    The friend arrested with Georg survived the war and he later explained that he was actually thrown alive onto a pile of corpses and left to die. There were no crematoria in operation at the time, he was buried in a mass grave and the ashes given to his mother weren’t his. Georg was her only child and his mother suffered terribly until her death in 1984, never allowing any mention of her son. Georg was nicknamed Schorschi by his friends and his death at the age of 16 was just another unnecessary casualty of war, being killed shortly before Dachau was liberated by the Americans on 27 April 1945. What looked liked just a typical painting from the period transpired to have a story behind it which the museum has done well to uncover and to explain to visitors.

  • Munich – Munich Documentation Center for the History of National Socialism (Franz Stenzer)

    Munich – Munich Documentation Center for the History of National Socialism (Franz Stenzer)

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    Franz Stenzer (9 June 1900 – 22 August 1933) was someone that I hadn’t heard of before visiting this museum and he was featured in a section of individuals who opposed the Nazi regime. He was born in Planegg near Munich, he moved to the city as a teenager, served briefly in the navy at the end of the First World War, then found steady work at the Bahnbetriebswerk in Pasing. Colleagues repeatedly elected him to the works council, and in 1919 he joined the local KPD group, cutting his political teeth in workplace and union battles during the turbulent early Weimar years.

    By the mid-1920s Stenzer had risen into the leadership of the KPD’s South Bavarian district. From autumn 1928 to spring 1929 he attended the International Lenin School in Moscow, returned to Munich as a full-time organiser, and was elected to the Pasing city council in 1929. He later edited the party paper Neue Zeitung in Munich and, at the November 1932 election, won a Reichstag seat for the KPD and in 1932 he also joined the party’s Central Committee.

    After Hitler came to power Stenzer stayed in Bavaria, working underground to coordinate the KPD’s illegal network and this displeased the new regime. The police could not find him at first and on 19 April 1933 they took his wife Emma (who lived until 1998) hostage, leaving their three young daughters at home. He was seized in Munich on 30 May 1933, taken the next day to the newly established Dachau concentration camp, and singled out as a prominent opponent of the regime. On 22 August 1933 SS men removed him from his cell and murdered him with Nazi newspapers claiming he was shot while trying to escape, a story later disproved by an investigation that established he had been killed with a close-range shot to the back of the head.

    Emma Stenzer was released for the funeral, then fled with the children via the Saar and Paris into Soviet exile before returning to Germany after the war. Franz is commemorated among the murdered members of the Reichstag in Berlin, and in Munich in 2023 a memorial sign was installed at his former home on the 90th anniversary of his killing in 2023. In the GDR his name was also given to the substantial ‘RAW Franz Stenzer’ railway works in Berlin-Friedrichshain. The news of his death wasn’t secret and was reported in the British media of the time and it must have been something which caused some concern to a few readers who could foresee what was going to happen. He is significant for many reasons, but not least as the first member of the Reichstag to be murdered by the Nazis.

  • Flixbus – Wrocław to Munich

    Flixbus – Wrocław to Munich

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    As I’m meeting up with Richard in Munich later today, I needed to get from Wrocław last night and the most efficient way of doing that was the direct Flixbus between the two cities. I’ve had mixed experiences with Flixbus, but I thought that it would be worth the risk as the timings worked out well to save me getting a hotel for the evening. Here’s the rather glamorous bus station in Wrocław, although it’s more a shopping centre than a bus station. It’s relatively new and it apparently replaced a ramshackle and disorganised bus station that was previously on the site.

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    And here’s the grand central area of the shopping centre element, which was rather nicer than the bus station. Ridiculously, the bus station toilets are chargeable and the shopping malls ones are free, so I walked the extra 50 metres to go to the latter.

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    The coach stops are in the downstairs of the building, but everything was clearly signed. I was pleased that it seemed logical, it’s not always the case.

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    There we go, stand 7 and I discovered something that I didn’t know, which is that Monachium is the Polish name for Munich.

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    The coach comes sweeping into stand 6, but that’s near enough. There were two drivers (well, one driver and one helping) and they were friendly and personable.

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    On board and I had a compulsory free seat reservation which I sometimes think are more hassle than they’re worth. Some people were put next to others despite the coach being nearly empty, but I was fortunate to have no-one next to me for the entire journey so there was plenty of space. There were only two stops which were Dresden and Nuremberg (well, and to fill the thing up with diesel and for the police check).

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    It was clean on board, but the tray was sticky.

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    The charging point being down there was a bit of a hassle as neither of my cables were long enough to even tuck my phone into the seat pocket. Instead, I charged my power bank and then charged my phone from the power bank.

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    Leaving Wrocław I tried to take a photo of the sunset, but, having thought about it, the foreground doesn’t look very decadent.

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    The police board at the German border, which I’m not sure is entirely commonplace, but it’s why Flixbus has to check passports and ID documents before anyone boards a cross-border route. The policeman was particularly interested in my passport with all its stamps, but not concerned enough to hold the coach up. There was a stop for diesel just before we crossed the Polish/German border and there must have been some sort of issue as there was lots of shouting about and moving the coach about the place. Someone wanted to get off for a cigarette, but this was refused in the middle of a petrol station.

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    And safely in Munich after the stops at Dresden and Nuremberg. The coach was always on time, or within a couple of minutes, and it was clean and comfortable. The free wi-fi was a bit limited in terms of the amount of data, but I had free roaming so it didn’t matter. The drivers were friendly, there was plenty of space and it was a reasonable experience for the £45 I paid. This was I accept a little bit expensive for a coach trip, but it saved a hotel and didn’t seem unreasonable. I got a sufficient amount of sleep on board and it was a generally very quiet coach which made that easier. Based on this experience, I’m becoming a little more confident to use Flixbus a little more often rather than just as an operator of last resort. Oh, and the coach station at Munich wasn’t as new and shiny as the one in Wrocław and it did look a bit like it might fall down soon.

  • Wrocław – Whiskey in the Jar

    Wrocław – Whiskey in the Jar

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    Whiskey in the Jar is a small national Polish chain of bars focusing on steaks and burgers. I decided to pop here as I’ve been to, I think, every other Whiskey in the Jar outlet in Poland so thought that I would complete the set. It’s relatively well reviewed online and they operate on a system of QR codes that customers scan rather than use printed menus.

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    I sat outside as that’s the only option they offered and there was no-one else inside. The service was polite and efficient, with everything feeling organised and well managed. There were no seagulls, pigeons or smokers in sight, so all was well with my outdoors bravery.

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    Here’s inside when I popped in for a look. I visited on a Tuesday afternoon and, unsurprisingly, it wasn’t busy, although it seems that it can get packed during the evenings.

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    Decorative….. The venue had a decent mix of different customers, including younger and older, families and tourists. There’s something of a rock theme going on, but I was pleased to note that there wasn’t any loud and intrusive music to annoy me.

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    Free popcorn, which I ensured that I completed.

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    They only had the standard Żywiec beer which was a little sub-optimal but it was cold, refreshing and generic. The burger was OK, served medium which is fine by me, although it didn’t really have a huge depth of flavour. The rest of the ingredients in the burger were OK, but it all combined to be an entirely satisfactory arrangement rather than one that surprised and delighted.

    All told, this was a rather pleasant visit, although I’m not sure that the chain is quite as exciting as it once was. Not that it made any difference to me, but it has to groups that I’ve been with in the past, is their refusal to split bills at a table. There’s not really any reason that they can’t do this and it’s not ideal. But, I digress, and returning to the most exciting theme, they have free popcorn….

  • Lodz – Three Creators Statue

    Lodz – Three Creators Statue

    [I originally posted this in August 2018, but have reposted it to fix the broken image link]

    Known in Polish as Twórcy Łodzi Przemysłowej, this is the statue of the three creators of industrial Lodz. The men represented are Izrael Poznański, Karol Scheibler and Henryk Grohman, who were all involved with the cotton industry and who collectively brought great wealth to Lodz.

    As an artwork, I think it’s brave to have created such a large sculpture, and the intention was that the public can be seated at the table with this manufacturing titans.

  • Lodz – Szpulka

    Lodz – Szpulka

    [I originally posted this in August 2018 about a visit in February 2018, but I’ve reposted it to fix some broken image links and I’m pleased that the restaurant is still trading]

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    I visited this restaurant in Lodz’s Manufaktura retail park in February 2018 as it was well reviewed for its traditional Polish food. Many of the food options at Maufaktura serve international cuisine, and I had worked my way around most of them during the time I was in the city.

    Although I hadn’t realised before I got to the restaurant, there was a fixed price lunch menu available, which was an interesting option. I arrived at 11:50, and the staff member said that I could either order breakfast or wait ten minutes for the lunch menu to start, so I went with the latter. It all felt rather friendly, although the downstairs area is relatively small, so it was fortunate to get a seat in a convenient place.

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    The fixed lunch menu cost 25zl (about £5) and included a drink, a starter and a main course. There wasn’t a choice of dishes, as they were specially made, but the staff member was keen to explain what the dishes were and the ingredients which were being used.

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    The starter was a soup, which had a pleasant flavour and the croutons added some texture to the dish.

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    The main course was similar to wiener schnitzel, which I think in Poland is known as Kotlet schabowy. It’s battered pork in breadcrumbs and in this case it was served with vegetables and on a bed of mash potatoes. It’s not something I’d normally order, but the meat was tender and the vegetables had a depth of flavour to them.

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    I decided against having a dessert, although a drink seemed a very good idea.

    Overall, I felt that this was a friendly and welcoming restaurant. I liked how they had a set lunch menu where there weren’t any options, as that meant I didn’t really have to think about anything. The entire meal, including food and drink, came to under £7, which I thought was perfectly good value.

  • Wizz Air (Luton Airport to Wrocław)

    Wizz Air (Luton Airport to Wrocław)

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    Another day, another train from Norwich to Luton Airport. I went via Cambridge and St. Pancras, but everything ran like clockwork so no delay repay today….

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    Lunch at Big Smoke.

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    A snack at Nolito.

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    And the evening meal at My Lounge.

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    At the boarding gate.

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    The boarding process was efficient and well managed. The aircraft hadn’t even arrived when they started checking boarding passes, but the aircraft seemed to be turned around quickly. The aircraft is HA-LGW and I haven’t been on this one before, although that’s not entirely surprising as it’s only been in service for just under eight weeks.

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    Happy passengers during the flight. The announcements during the flight were helpful and informative, the crew were friendly and everything was beautifully uneventful. The seating Gods had given me an aisle seat near to the front, which was handy for border control as well as being decadent as it wasn’t a middle seat.

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    And safely in Wrocław on time. There wasn’t much of a wait at border control as most of the passengers had EU passports, although there was quite a lot of checking and counting my passport stamps. As I used Multipass, the flight was just £8.99, a whole arrangement that I thought was marvellous value for money. As we arrived on time and the border control checks were efficient, it meant that I was able to catch the 00:06 bus and had a 40 minute journey to the city centre, a trip which costs under £1.

  • Lodz – Szmigiel

    Lodz – Szmigiel

    [I originally posted this piffle in August 2018, but have reposted it to fix the broken image link]

    Just as an aside, this is a Polish company that deals with road works and road safety. But I couldn’t help thinking of an episode of Friday Night Dinner and the gift of the schmoigle…..

  • Brandon – Brandon Station

    Brandon – Brandon Station

    [I originally published this in August 2018 and have reposted it to fix the broken image links. A lot has happened since then, I was one of the people who complained heavily when Greater Anglia tried to demolish the station and it’s now in one hell of a state since a bit of it fell off]

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    It was too hot in Cambridge, so I felt a visit to Brandon was in order.

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    This rather attractive little railway station was opened in 1845 and was part of the Norwich & Brandon Railway. The railway station services the town of Brandon and there is an interesting quirk that the station is in Norfolk whilst the main part of the town is in Suffolk.

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    Brandon railway station in 1845.

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    Brandon railway station in 2018. Sadly entirely boarded up, it has been staffless since the 1970s.

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    A view towards Cambridge.

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    It’s sad to see the buildings all boarded up, but at least they’ve tried to brighten it up a little.

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    The frontage of the railway station, just used as a car park now.

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    The railway station has been adopted, so at least there are some people taking care of it. The Brandon Heritage Centre mentions on their web-site that the group who adopted the station tried to take over and protect the buildings, but the landowners refused. Perhaps one day it’ll be able to re-open in some form….