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  • Berlin Trip : Berlin War Memorial (Concrete of Watchtower)

    Berlin Trip : Berlin War Memorial (Concrete of Watchtower)

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    This is the sort of thing that interests me, although I’m surprised that considerable efforts have been made to preserve it. It had started to snow when I visited and there’s some evidence of that in the photo. I’m pleased that there was an information panel here as otherwise I would have never guessed what it was. I might as well just quote what that said:

    “Before observation towers were installed on the border, the border soldiers had to make do with a temporary structure. This kind of temporary guard post with gun slits was erected on Bergstrasse in 1962. It was torn down when the border strip was levelled in 1966/1967. In place of it, a new watchtower was erected at the former Nordbahnhof station between 1967 and 1969.The cement base of the guard post that was placed over the remains of the cemetery well has been preserved.”

    More on Sophienfriedhof (Sophien Cemetery) in later posts…. Really here is that I’m saying I was intrigued by a bit of old concrete and merrily stood in the cold and snowy weather to look at it. My friend Liam would be proud of me, he’s a civil engineer and so likes concrete and looking at it (although I think he’s more interested in watching it when it’s being poured rather than finding bits of old concrete to look at). But there’s some proper history there, an East German soldier (who could well still be alive) would have stood and been part of the crew that knocked down a bit of the cemetery wall to pour that concrete to build their temporary guard post. It all seems a waste of resources to me, but there we go.

  • Berlin Trip : Berlin War Memorial (Gartenstrasse)

    Berlin Trip : Berlin War Memorial (Gartenstrasse)

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    The Berlin War Memorial is located by Gartenstrasse, a street which offers something of a wider perspective on the evolution of the wall because of its location. At first the residential street was lived in mostly by master masons and carpenters, but in 1772 ten gardener families moved into the area and the street became known as ‘Garden Street’. Then, following the end of the Second World War, this once quiet residential area found itself in the middle of the divide between East and West Berlin when the Antifaschistischer Schutzwall (the ridiculously named anti-fascist wall) was constructed in 1961 and plonked down at this site.

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    A map of the site as the construction of the wall involved substantial changes to this area, including the removal of a road and the destruction of part of a graveyard.

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    A remaining section of the wall. Tragically, over the years several people lost their lives trying to cross the Wall near Gartenstrasse, including Heinz Cyrus, who died after being pursued by border guards and jumping or falling from the fourth floor of a border house at Gartenstrasse 85 in 1965. Fortunately, from a historical perspective, efforts have been made to retain some historic parts of the wall’s infrastructure and I found them to be of particular interest. Given this, there might be (well, there will be although how fast depends on whether or not Northern Rail’s wi-fi holds out which it isn’t at the moment) a few more posts about this site, to excite and delight my two loyal blog readers.

  • Berlin Trip : Frittenwerk

    Berlin Trip : Frittenwerk

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    Frittenwerk is a small, but growing, German chain of venues which effectively sells loaded fries. They have a few outlets in Berlin, with this one being located at Brunnenstraße 1. As can be seen, the ordering process is made nice and easy with these self-service kiosks available, although customers can still order at the counter if they want. Every order is given a name rather than a number, which seems quite a sensible decision in a country where numerous languages are spoken.

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    The counter area with the menu options visible, it all feels on-trend and organised. They’re having something of a push on poutine themed dishes, which has caused some people to be grumpy that they’re not authentic, but I’m not sure that they ever claimed to be.

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    I went for the Currywurst loaded fries as that seemed the most appropriate option for Berlin. They apologised that they needed to put new sausages on to cook and it would be a 15 minute wait, but the best things in life are always worth waiting for. Like when I have to wait for Greggs to cook a new batch of hot chicken bakes which I promptly then burn my mouth on. The food was served as a generous portion and the whole combination of Currywurst and fries worked very well for me, with the food being well presented. The sauce had a depth of flavour, with the fries being crispy on the exterior and fluffy on the interior.

    The whole venue felt modern and comfortable, with everything being clean and looked after. It’s perhaps a little formulaic, but it’s a national chain with a focus on fries, so that is slightly inevitable. Anyway, I liked it and would happily go again.

  • Berlin Trip : Mikkeller Berlin

    Berlin Trip : Mikkeller Berlin

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    I’m slowly working around all of the Mikkeller bars in the world (everyone has to have a hobby….), although I’m going to have to go to Copenhagen again and to Japan to tick a fair few off in one go.

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    The beer board and the list is also on Untappd. The service was prompt and immediate with a laid-back and comfortable atmosphere in the bar. It’s a relatively small venue, so I can imagine that it regularly gets full on weekend evenings. There are 24 keg lines here with most beer styles covered, as well as a wide spread of different ABVs.

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    The Burst from Mikkeller, it had an orange edge to the taste, all smooth and reassuring.

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    The Nutty by Nature, also brewed by Mikkeller. I thought that this was one of the better brown ales that I’ve had, very nutty but also smooth and creamy with something of a Twix taste to it.

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    And this was the most exciting of them all, the White-Out from 3 Sons Brewing Co of Dania Beach in Florida, although it’s a collab with Mikkeller. This is a proper Christmas beer, coconut, nutmeg, chocolate with a sweetness to it, and very smooth bearing in mind that it was 13.8%. I think it’s fair to say that this delicious beer with its delightful aroma would fall foul of the purity laws.

    The venue is very well reviewed and I can see why, this is some of the best beer that I think anyone is likely to get in Berlin. The prices aren’t cheap, but they’re also not unreasonable given how many of these beers have to be imported.

  • Berlin Trip : McRib Tradition…..

    Berlin Trip : McRib Tradition…..

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    For over a decade I have had a tradition of getting a McRib meal on my first day in Germany, as it’s one of the two countries in the world (the other is Luxembourg) where it’s on the permanent menu. Well, technically, the first couple of times I did this it wasn’t a tradition, it was just me being hungry but that’s a different matter. Anyway, here we are again in Berlin, the best thing on the McDonald’s menu. Incidentally, that spicy sauce that comes with the fries is surprisingly decadent.

    And yes, I need to get out more….

  • Berlin Trip : Murphy’s Irish Pub

    Berlin Trip : Murphy’s Irish Pub

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    Yes, yes, I know, it’s not authentically local, but its location by the River Spree was handy (since I was standing by the River Spree) and I needed a little rest. It was a little awkward at first as I had a wait of over four minutes for a team member to arrive. Four minutes doesn’t sound long, but it does when you’re in a pub that I’m not sure is actually open.

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    The surroundings were pleasant, but it didn’t feel like a busy lunchtime destination and they were serving food when I visited. The food looked like it was mainly Irish specialities and hearty meals, with the prices looking reasonable. It was just a little cold when I visited, so there was no-one seated outside, but there’s a handy area for when it is warm enough to sit and enjoy the weather.

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    The beer that I went for, it’s the König Ludwig Weissbier and it’s light and well behaved, like everything brewed to the purity laws….. Here’s to rebellion though on that score, but I’ll try not to go on about them too much.

    The service was friendly, the environment was clean and it was a comfortable place to sit for a while. I think that the atmosphere gets somewhat more lively in the evening though and there’s often live music, but I’m not built for all that frivolity. They also have a sister pub of the same name located near to Checkpoint Charlie.

  • Berlin Trip : Berlin Hauptbahnhof

    Berlin Trip : Berlin Hauptbahnhof

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    I’m not sure how I’ve managed to miss Berlin Hauptbahnhof on my previous trips to the city, but it’s one of the most architecturally impressive stations that I’ve seen. It’s not a new building either, this design is from when it reopened in May 2006, but it feels modern and current.

    The station was opened in 1871 as the terminus for the Berlin-Lehrte railway line, known as Lehrter Bahnhof it quickly grew into a major hub. Its grand architecture, designed in the French Neo-Renaissance style, earned it the nickname ‘palace among stations’ although it got a bit smashed up during the Second World War. Services came back to the railway station after the end of the war, but were suspended again in 1951 and bits of the station started to fall down. With the arrival of the Stadtbahn (city railway) in 1882, Lehrter Bahnhof became even more crucial to Berlin’s transport network.

    However, the station suffered significant damage during World War II. Though services resumed after the war, they were eventually suspended in 1951, and the station fell into disrepair. Then Berlin got split up and it ended up in Western Sector, near to the Berlin Wall. Not much happened until Germany was unified (with the station I mean, quite a lot happened in general) and they decided that Lehrter Bahnhof would be the site for a new central station. So they knocked down the rickety old one and built a lovely new one which was designed by architects Gerkan, Marg and Partners. It took ten years to build this but it was completed just in time for the football World Cup.

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    It was the multi-level nature of the railway station that impressed me, that’s a track at the top as well.

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    It has something of a shopping vibe feel to it, but that’s what funds these buildings.

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    The signage here was one of the best I’ve seen at a railway station and it’s helped by the transport system avoiding using complex line names, they just go with letters and numbers which makes things much easier. Well, for me anyway.

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    And a train going by.

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    A model of the railway station.

  • Berlin Trip : Manchester Airport to Berlin Brandenburg (Ryanair)

    Berlin Trip : Manchester Airport to Berlin Brandenburg (Ryanair)

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    Although I had enjoyed the Escape Lounge, I was quite pleased to be leaving Manchester’s Terminal 3 as it was all a little cramped. The same was true waiting for the gate, there was minimal seating and the queue wrapped around the corridor trying not to get in the way of passengers walking by. The Ryanair staff were friendly and the whole boarding process was gloriously uneventful.

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    It was a wet and windy evening in Manchester.

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    That’s handy, I was able to note the registration number although I’m not entirely sure why I’m collecting these. Then again, I’m not sure why I do a lot of things, yet here we are. It’s EI-DWE and I don’t think it’s an aircraft that I’ve been on, although Ryanair have had it for 17 years. It’s a Boeing 737 from back in the day when they actually had a good reputation. I was fortunate to randomly be given an aisle seat and the whole flight was comfortable and without any issues. The cabin crew were professional, the aircraft was clean and it arrived on time, so for the £21 I paid for the flight (a little more than usual) I was entirely content.

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    I could claim that it’s blurry for artistic reasons. But it isn’t, so I won’t.

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    This was my first visit to Berlin Brandenburg and it’s already the laughing stock of airports across Europe, but I’ll save my moaning about this confused mess of a building in a later post. I miss Berlin Tegel.

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    There were long queues with poor signage leaving plenty of passengers in the wrong place.

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    Those who can use the left-hand queue are very fortunate and save a lot of time…. But, I won’t go on about that.

  • Little Thameslink Debacle

    Little Thameslink Debacle

    I like to break into proceedings for a little complaint, it makes me feel better.

    Here I am with a rail ticket to board the 15:36 at London St. Pancras to Bedford and two Thameslink gateline staff have rejected the ticket saying it’s invalid with their service, refusing me access to the platforms. The Thameslink staff said that my ticket wasn’t valid on their service, only the EMR service. The details on my ticket read:

    “Board the 15:36 service to Bedford (Thameslink). (G50426 service details)”

    Now, I always fear I’ve made a mistake, as I do that quite a lot, so I thought I’d better check first with the ticketing company, Trainsplit. They’ve already checked for me and they’ve told me that Thameslink are in breach of the National Rail Conditions of Travel and the information they were supplying was wrong.

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    Here’s the details of the 15:36 train that the gateline staff said wasn’t an actual service. After claiming the 15:36 was definitely an EMR service, the gateline staff did let me through in the end (I think one of the staff had a moment of realisation that the only 15:36 service departing the station was their Thameslink service) but warned me that my ticket wasn’t valid and I might be asked to buy another one. I haven’t heard so much piffle since listening to Liz Truss prattling on about something she didn’t understand, but the railway wonders why people get confused. If I had followed the instructions of the gateline staff I would have been liable for a fine from EMR for travelling on a service that I didn’t have a ticket for which feels very sub-optimal given all the confusion over ticket prosecutions at the moment.

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    Merrily on board the 15:36 (albeit delayed).

  • Berlin Trip : Manchester Airport – Escape Lounge T3

    Berlin Trip : Manchester Airport – Escape Lounge T3

    With just my usual element of incompetence I didn’t get many photos of this lounge as it was so busy, so I’m using a promotional photo to add just a little colour to arrangements. I got into the lounge earlier than the three hours they allow before the flight and I noticed that there was a sign saying the lounge was full, but you could join their on-line waiting list. This has worked well for me at Stansted Airport and so I signed up to patiently wait and as there wasn’t an estimated waiting time I went to ask at the reception desk, but she kindly said I could come in immediately as I was on my own. Most lovely and there were no issues with using my Priority Pass card.

    Another promotional photo…. There’s no charge for alcoholic drinks, other than a surcharge for Prosecco, but it’s all bar service.

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    I found a power point that worked to charge my ailing phone and it might be evident that this isn’t a promotional photo taken by the lounge. The food selection was actually surprisingly good, there were a range of different sandwiches and I very much liked the stew and dumplings. The beer is the John Smiths Extra Smooth and my friend James would have been proud of me for choosing that. The stew had a depth of flavour and the dumplings had just the right firmness to them, they were the best part of my airport visit to be fair.

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    More stew and dumplings with some rice added to the mix, alongside a Guinness this time as well as a coffee.

    The lounge remained very busy and for about twenty minutes the entire Manchester United youth team came in, although they didn’t eat or drink much, so I’m not sure if there was much value to that. And this lounge is expensive, just shy of £40 for walk-ins, although cheaper rates are available for advance purchase. Despite how busy it was, I thought that the staff were doing really very well to keep up and they remained friendly throughout. The lounge is unusually highly rated, so there must be an element of the excellent customer service shining through there.

    When writing about the terminal in my last enthralling post, I mentioned that it was used nearly entirely for Ryanair and British Airways passengers. Most of the angry reviews are from customers of the latter, not least this:

    “In thirty years of traveling and using lounges all over the world, tonight I encountered something for the first time: no seats. Not just crowded but not one single seat available. A small, shabby looking lounge to begin with has outdone itself. So ahead of an 11-hour flight, I now have to stand around until boarding. Shame, BA.”

    There are a few angry BA passengers out there…. The signage is initially just a little unclear as it points two ways for the Escape Lounge, but it appears that they have a second area. It was all closed off when I was there, but I suspect it’s opened up during busier periods of the year, as otherwise this lounge must be regularly at near capacity. Anyway, I was very pleased with this lounge visit, I left with sufficient power in my devices, a couple of beers and more than enough food. What more could I want from life?