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Although it didn’t look like the most vibrant part of Athens, the area just to the north of the Agora has plenty of food and drink options.

The one that we headed for was Tapfield, as it was Untappd verified and it appeared to have some interesting beer options.

There was a friendly welcome from the team member and the beer list is clearly visible, although it’s also listed on Untappd as well. The team member was willing to give recommendations and I liked the mix of Greek and international beers, with most major beer styles represented here. We seated ourselves indoors at the end of the bar, although there’s more outside seating for those who like sitting in a fog of cigarette smoke. Although it didn’t have many tables inside, that did give it a cosier and more comfortable atmosphere.

My flight of beers, it seemed the easiest way to try several beers. For anyone interested, from left to right:

(i) West Coast IPA from Kykao, with a deep hop flavour, it was punchy, piney and stonefruity.

(ii) Craft IPA from Craft Microbrewery, which was smooth and hoppy but didn’t have any intense and decadent flavours to it.

(iii) Coconut Sky CocoStout from Athens Noctua Microbrewery, this was a little thin but the depth of coconut was intense and I love that. A Bounty bar delight…

(iv) Red Ale from Retimi, there was a bit of caramel, quite malty but again a little thin.

There was a modern bar and dispense, it all felt suitably on-trend. The reviews for this bar are very positive on-line and there are surprisingly few other venues similar to this.

Part of the decor, some considerable effort has gone into all of this.

We got a few cans between Richard and I and I’d better note that as I didn’t get through all of these on my own. This was the Stone Imperial Stout from Stone Brewing, which was pleasant but I had hoped for something more complex. There was a bit of chocolate, a bit of smokiness, it was OK.

This is the Umibozu from Funky Fluid, perhaps my favourite brewery in the world, and Richard loved this beer and gave it his 5 star seal of approval. I liked it, but it was bloody sweet although hugely punchy. There were massive hits of maple syrup and some coffee as well.

The Star People from Elmeleven and this was beautiful, with blueberry all over this. A lovely pastry sour with some end notes of banana. Delicious and much punchier than the ABV and it was aided by the professional pouring from the team member who rolled the fruited sour cans for us to ensure we didn’t get a lump of fruit residue at the end.

And another winner from Elmeleven, the I Want to Leave beer, with caramel undertones, lots of berries, decadent and again way more punchy than the ABV suggested. It was time for us to leave after this beer and we timed it well as some rather noisy customers then entered and we’re too old for that sort of environment (well, more specifically, Richard is too old for that sort of environment).

We very much enjoyed this bar, it was a clean and comfortable environment although it occurred to me afterwards it was the only one that didn’t do a free snacks option with the alcohol, although I’ll forgive them for that. Lots of interesting beer choices, a knowledgeable team member and the pricing was also reasonable. I’d merrily come again and this was one of my favourite bars in Athens. For craft beer people, this is definitely recommended.

It’s not immediately obvious from the photo, but I rather liked how the cat (of which there are quite a lot in Athens) was sitting in a little cat basket outside Pet City, that felt very appropriate…. I’m easily amused.

The first evening’s meal and we thought we’d go for something local. After much faffing about on my part checking Google reviews, we settled on this one. There was external seating available, but I’m not one for sitting next to smokers whilst trying to eat a tomato or some other decadent treat.

The menu which fitted into the style of the restaurant which was functional, welcoming and not overly showy. I also liked that they noted which items on the menu were frozen, which is something that perhaps more restaurants should do. The food felt traditional and authentic, with the restaurant feeling peaceful despite it being in a relatively busy area of the city.

The beer is the Alfa Beer from the Athenian Brewery, it’s light and smooth albeit perhaps just a little dull.

Free bread was brought out before the meal.

They also came over with some free olives, which looked a little sparse given the plate size, but any number of free olives is a bonus. Apparently the olives and the olive oil come from the owner’s own farm.

I will admit to Greek salad being one of my favourite meals and it’s served as a generous portion here with a slab of feta cheese.

The meatballs that we got to share and some lumpy thing on the left Richard got as his main course, but he enjoyed it so that’s all to the good.

The spicy sausages served with rice, with the meat being tender and full of flavour. I wouldn’t necessarily say that the food was the best presented that I’ve seen, but I’m far more engaged with quality over looks.

There was also a free dessert provided to round the meal off. There was a set meal which represented good value for money, although it didn’t quite match what we wanted, so we ordered off the main menu instead. The positive on-line reviews seemed justified and the restaurant felt like a family affair, with the service being informal and laid-back. Despite its location relatively near to the Agora and Hadrian’s Library, it didn’t feel touristy and it was steadily busy throughout the evening. They were in no rush to kick us out at the end of the evening and the payment process was efficient, so all rather lovely.

Two of the Presidential Guard protecting the Presidential Palace in Athens. Known as Evzones, they’re ceremonial guards and they also protect the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier.

The uniform is distinctive and comprises of the Fustanella (the pleated white kilt-like garment), the Tsarouchia (the red leather shoes with large black pompons) and the Pharion (the red felt cap). They also have a semi-automatic rifle, although there are armed guards nearby to them who are protecting them as they spend quite some time just standing still and not being allowed to move. They take this quite literally, there have been instances where a protester has thrown a firebomb and their sentry hut burned with the nearby Evzone not moving until told to and also a case where police were using tear gas and the soldier was stuck there next to it. All very brave.

I like an old gateway and this arch dates to 131AD or 132AD, so it’s done well not to fall down in the intervening period or to be used to make lime. It’s made of Pentelic marble, which is the same stone that was used to build the Parthenon. It stands 18 metres tall and it apparently, so the signage says, is a blend of Greek and Roman architectural styles. There are inscriptions which mark something of a divide between the classical Greek City founded by Theseus and the newer Roman area influenced by Hadrian. It’s not known whether it’s meant to be a rigid boundary or a symbol of the integration of Greek and Roman cultures under Hadrian’s rule. It was likely funded by the Athenians to thank Emperor Hadrian for his benefactions to the city and he’s a very lucky man to have a wall in northern England and a gate in Athens after him.

The side of the arch, the origins of which are inevitably a little lost to history and it’s not known who the architect was of the whole arrangement. The Wall of Haseki was built in 1778 when Athens was run by Hadji Ali Haseki and this was a wall around the city which incorporated Hadrian’s Arch. The wall was reduced to ruins during the 1826 Ottoman Siege of Athens and was promptly demolished, although the historic arch was kept.

It’s located next to a busy road and that’s inevitably having something of an impact on it and its colour is a little murky in places. In November 1935 it was reported that:

“Extraordinary tumultuous scenes broke out as King George of the Hellenes, to-day, again set foot in his capital, after his long exile. Wearing evening dress, and with a monocle in his right eye, the King, his face twitching with restrained emotion, had listened at Hadrian’s Arch, on the boundary of Athens, to an address of welcome by the Mayor of Athens. He then received the keys of the city and started to walk under the arch into the capital. Immediately there was a forward rush by the crowd, who seized the King and bore him shoulder high, cheering frantically and shouting “Long live the King.”

The cavalry were forced to clear the King’s route with drawn sabres. One man received a wound on the head from which blood streamed, and others were also hurt. Rescued from the ebullient loyalty of the crowd, the King regained his car and continued the drive to the cathedral. Strict precautions against an attack on the returning monarch had been taken at all stages in the route of the Royal drive. Hadrian’s Arch was especially strongly guarded, in view of the long wait while the Mayor of Athens and the provincial Mayors welcomed the King.

Here, a guard of troops was drawn up and many spectators were stopped and searched for arms. Even girls in national costume were not spared. In his message to the Greek people on the occasion of his return, King George expresses deep emotion and infinite gratitude. He says he is ready to devote all his strength, his experience, and his life to the material and moral betterment of the whole people without exception. He promises absolute equality and justice for all.”

There had been an 11 year period with no Monarch, with King George II having served just 1 year and 160 days in his role, before he was reinstated in 1935. He held the role until 1 April 1947, although he was in exile between 1941 and 1946 due to the Second World War. But, it shows the importance of Hadrian’s Arch in the national pride of the country.