An interesting name, but apparently this is a slightly iconic location to many residents of Malta….
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Malta – Northern Region – Mdina – St. Paul’s Catacombs (Museum)
I posted separately about my visit to the St. Paul’s Catacombs, but there is also an interesting museum at the site which gives an introduction to the catacombs. The above map shows the complexity of the site, with visitors entering at the top right, exploring the first catacombs and then crossing over the road before visiting the others.
Known as the Valeria Inscription, this dates to the fourth to eighth century AD. It was found in 1875 and is one of the oldest inscriptions at the site, although that’s primarily as they haven’t found that many. It reads “Fufica Galena and Curtius Diadoumenos, husband and wife erected this tomb for the well deserving Valeria”.
What I like about this is that the main part of the inscription mentions who paid for it, which does seem to make sense. If you’re going to a lot of expense, then it seems right that you should get the main mention.
Part of the catacombs were visible under the glass floor, but there was a little problem that some of this was covered in dirty footprints and the like. This bit was clearer, although it was difficult to know what I was supposed to be looking at.
The smaller skeleton has a sad story insomuch it’s not known whether this baby had been born or not when it died. There were a large number of skeletons found of children, an unfortunate reality of the number of youngsters who didn’t survive. It’s not clear when the individual died, but it’s thought to be from the Phoenician period.
This skeleton belongs to a man who was buried at the site between the fourth and second centuries BC. He was aged around 60, which was a comparatively high age for the period, and he apparently suffered from severe arthritis and a spur on one rib.
An example of how a burial would have taken place.
The museum was an interesting and useful start to the tour, although it didn’t cover the site in quite as much detail as I’d have ideally liked. However, the displays were presented in an accessible and informative manner, and I liked how one family managed to contain the excitement of their two children who wanted to go down the holes and instead they explained to them the meaning of what there was to see before the kids rushed off.
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Malta – Northern Region – Mosta – Cannon
I can’t find out what period this cannon dates to, but it takes pride of place outside of Mosta Rotunda.
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Malta – Northern Region – Mosta – World War Two Tunnels
During the Second World War, there were more bombs dropped on Malta than there were on London, so there was a need for every resident to have access to a shelter whilst the bombings went on. Mosta has recently opened up the shelters located under the town’s main square, in front of the Mosta Rotunda.
The main tunnel has some information panels along its length.
I hadn’t realised that Winston Churchill had visited Valletta in 1943, which must have been a relatively dangerous mission.
There were four exits to the shelters, this is one of them which is now sealed off.
One of the areas not accessible to the public. Well, it probably technically was as there was nothing stopping anyone exploring, but they’d have to stoop heavily or crawl, or just be short.
A recreated bedroom area.
The tunnels aren’t particularly large in size, but they were sufficient to protect the residents from the bombings which were taking place above. There was a joint admission charge of €3 for the Rotunda, or the town’s main church, and these tunnels, which was reasonable. I did try to work out where the other exits were on the main square, but that search was both a bit half-hearted and also entirely unsuccessful.
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Malta – Twistees
These crisps, available in a few flavours such as bacon, cheese, BBQ and chicken, are produced on the islands and appear to be one of the most common snacks which are available. Apparently they’re also widely exported from Malta, although I’ve never seen them before.
At any rate, they’re excellent, very like Nik Naks…..
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Malta – Northern Region – Mdina – Old Signage
An old sign on one of the streets in Mdina.
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Malta – Northern Region – Mdina – St. Paul’s Catacombs
These catacombs date from the Phoenician and Punic periods, although were used for over 1,500 years at various stages. There’s also a museum which I’ll detail in another post, as there are enough photos below already….
The site is enormous, with most of the entry points involving walking up and down steps. The first catacomb that visitors enter is spacious inside, probably nearly half a mile of various walkways in what is a maze inside. There are panic buttons located all over the catacombs, which worried me as I wondered why there were lots of panic buttons all over the site.
Fortunately, this is one of the catacombs which is currently closed off.
This is how visitors get into most of the catacombs. There are fifteen or so of these sets of steps to go down, as although the catacombs mostly connect together, you’d never get visitors around them. I suspect that Dylan and Leon would have been able to explore at will though, and there were some catacombs that could only really be visited by short people or tall people willing to crawl.
Nearly all the access points have metal steps, which have been inserted over the top of older steps, which are mostly quite worn. This part was inaccessible and so there are just the old steps.
Lots of walkways…..
This is graffiti that I think dates to the Second World War when these catacombs were used as air raid shelters. I thought initially that it might be relatively tolerable down here, but most of the stone feels damp to the touch, so it couldn’t have been very pleasant.
The dampness is more evident here.
This is a blocking stone inserted to, well, block off a burial area. The stone was reused from a Doric frieze.
There were hundreds of these, stone cut corridors and tombs for someone’s final resting place. Well, not final as it turned out. Although there’s actually no explanation for where the bones are, with the exception of some in the site’s museum. There are explanations that the site has been looted over the centuries, but I can’t imagine the bones were lifted out at that time, so I assume that it’s more recent.
The surface, with each of those stone hut type things being the entrance into one of the catacombs.
Each of the catacombs had a sign such as this by it, with the appropriate warnings such as the maximum number of visitors and some height and width restrictions. The site had a few other visitors when I was there, but no real number to mean that I had to wait to enter any of the catacombs. I imagine during the summer months that the wait is rather more tiresome.
These maps were interesting to see on the surface and they often told visitors what to look for. However, in the larger catacombs it’s difficult to get a sense of where anything is relative to this plan. There are nearly no descriptions downstairs, so I think I missed quite a lot.
The catacombs are also more extensive than visitors can see, and there are separate, but still part of the same complex, areas which can only be seen with an appointment.
I’ve seen two explanations given for these circular tables, of which there are several throughout the catacombs. The first is that they are tables where individuals would come for a final meal, as part of the ceremony after burial when the individual was laid to rest. The second is that they were used for an annual Roman ritual of celebrating the dead, but it’s probably the case that both are true.
I must say though, Malta is a country which is rather pleasant in terms of the temperature. I’d have thought a final meal two metres above in the sun would be more pleasant, but such are the rules of burial rites I suppose…. There are also Christian and Jewish burials at the site, and of course many people were buried here before those two religions were established.
So, this is a substantial site which it can easily take a couple of hours to explore, with a history dating back thousands of years. It’s full of atmosphere, character and intrigue, so I thought that I’d better check TripAdvisor to see what some visitors thought.
“We came here half an hour before closing but could not see anything more than a few caves, no Bones.”
Firstly, I wouldn’t come to a substantial site half an hour before closing, but each to their own. And a few caves? The largest catacombs in Malta with hundreds of metres of pathways? Hmmmmm.
“Seen one seen them all! Not a through trip but up and down separate stairs to see holes in the ground!”
Yes, burial sites are so samey…. Although there is some logic to this, many of the burials were quite similar in style. I like though that the site has to get a bad review because it’s simply not possible to link the catacombs together without getting visitors to crawl through them.
“It costs 5 euros to visit the catacombs that have nothing to offer!”
No, just thousands of years of history….
All in, a really interesting experience, but I did have a lot more questions when leaving than answers, so I’d prefer for the interpretation centre to perhaps be a little more involved with details than perhaps it was.
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Malta – Gozo – Snake Warning
There are snakes in the walls? I will ensure that I spent the rest of the week avoiding any wall, which could make walking slightly challenging….
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Malta – Gozo – Victoria – Ta’ Rikardu Restaurant
Located in the Cittadella in Victoria, I walked by this restaurant a few days ago and didn’t think of going in. There’s no external menu, although that’s likely a limitation of the historic area in which they’re located and the authorities not wanting them to bang up signs all over the place. The reviews are mixed, although generally favourable, but it was the dining environment that intrigued me.
The downstairs of the restaurant, with the set-up being a bit confusing. I was told when after I entered that the restaurant was upstairs, as it’s on two floors, and so I start to plod up, before being told that I could sit downstairs as well. I just go where I’m put, so I just went upstairs anyway as I like to look confident in my decision….
One of the reasons I went upstairs is that I thought that it might be a bit busier, but it transpired that I was the first customer of the day. Anyway, I was seated by a friendly member of staff and given a choice of two tables, both of which sat ten people.
The restaurant got much busier later, but then the staff did I feel fail some of the customers. One man sat down with his backpack on the stool at the rear behind the table, but was then moved as he was told that the table he was sat at was reserved. He couldn’t have known that, but he then accidentally smashed a glass when picking his backpack up. I felt quite sorry for him, the staff really should have seated him rather than make his visit awkward. The staff then did the same to another two customers, although they didn’t smash anything when moving.
So, although I was quite happy with the service for my meal, which was always polite and attentive, I was conscious it wasn’t good enough for others.
This is the sharing platter, which I had seen photos of and was aware wasn’t as good as the one I had ordered in Valletta a couple of weeks ago. The bread was excellent and was another generous portion of it, which was freshly made and warm. The tomatoes had a clarity of taste, the olives were of a good quality, the capers added texture and the cheese had a rich flavour and quite a strong after-taste. I was less convinced about the need for the raw onions and the sun-dried tomatoes were at best adequate.
The dining environment was though marvellous, a real feel of the old city centre of Victoria. This is the only restaurant in the Cittadella, with the exception of one more basic cafe operation, and has perhaps one of the best locations in the entire city. It wasn’t overly expensive, especially given that location, and the service for me was always polite, efficient and friendly. For others though, I do think they need to do more about their welcome and seating arrangements.
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Malta – Gozo – Ġgantija Temples – Vandalism
I visited the Ġgantija Temples today and one might think that leaving graffiti on the stones came to an end in the nineteenth century. Unfortunately, not, this is just a link to show that vandalism of these historic sites still exists….
The man said:
“Are you telling me I cannot write my name on this piece of rock? I didn’t know you can’t”.
