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  • Ireland – Hike Norfolk Walking Trip Day 2 (Photos)

    I will catch up on the text soon! Photos from day two   🙂

        

  • Ireland – Hike Norfolk Walking Trip Day 1 (Photos)

    I’ll write our first day of walking up later. For now, I can report back that it rained nearly all day and we got drenched. Here are some photos of the day…….

  • Ireland – Hike Norfolk Walking Trip Day 0 – Post Two

    So, since the last update, we got off the bus and decided that we needed refreshments. Not all of the group are as youthful as me (well, frankly, none of them are, I’m the youngest) so they needed a little sit down. I obliged, as that’s easier. The cafe was a few steps away and they had some light snacks available which looked most suitable.

    The selection of cakes in the cafe.

    The chocolate and orange cake, very delicious.

    The walk to the B&B for me…. Some of us were located nearer to the centre of Doolin than others.

    We decided to go to McGann’s and this is the menu in the pub. It had a lively and welcoming atmosphere, and since it’s the off-season they were easily able to deal with nine of us. By that, I mean that they could seat nine of us, I’m not sure that they were prepared for the behaviour of the two Sarahs and Susanna, very raunchy and raucous… But, I’m not one for gossip.

    My fish and chips.

    Dessert.

    There was live music playing which was, on balance, tolerable. I’m not a music person, but it was some of the better music that I’ve ever heard in pubs. I was trying to play with my camera to take photos remotely, but I really needed to position the camera in a more suitable place.

    They pour Guinness properly here, letting it settle on the bar before topping it up. And the Guinness tastes good. Shame they didn’t have Murphy’s though.

    Looks at that smoothness from Steve….

    I look enthusiastic….

    Anyway, there was a lot of gossip going on during the evening, but unfortunately I’ve had to redact the vast majority of it. Needless to say, Susanna is heading towards winning the “crudest person of the week”, but she does it with such style, as indeed she does everything else.

    The friendliness is really evident everywhere and Dave is I think clearly planning to live in Ireland. I don’t think he is British, he’s far too social, he’s Irish through and through.

    I decided to walk back to the B&B using my phone’s torch and I stopped to take a photo of the graveyard at night, which was very brave indeed. Tomorrow though I’ll share the taxi back, it’ll just be easier….

  • Ireland – Hike Norfolk Walking Trip Day 0

    “I was in a prison toilet” – Dave.

    Now that we’ve established that my peace in Ennis has been shattered by the arrival of Hike Norfolk, I’d better switch the blog to record this marvellous week of eating, drinking and gossip. And walking. I’m writing this on the bus to Doolin and we all spent the afternoon in Ennis.

    Steve the Hat coming out of the pub.

    Driving Steve coming out of the pub.

    Aaaah, Murphy’s. Again….. We were quite a loud group in the pub, so I’m guessing the staff were glad we were at the back out of the way. Well, I say “we”, but really the usual culprits were responsible.

    I won’t mention hatgate as some of that would have to be redacted, and I certainly can’t comment on some of the discussions that Susanna started…. Some of us had soup and some had chowder, and I won’t mention who got confused and started talking about chunder, as that wouldn’t be fair.

    Sarah H walking down one of Ennis’s main streets.

    Dave keeps finding people to talk to, and here we are in the tourist information office in Ennis. Dave got a heap of maps that I now seem to be carrying…. There was good and bad news about the museum, the bad news is that Susanna didn’t get to look around, but the good news is that I looked around two days ago.

    Maggie paying on the bus in Ennis, we’re now on our way to Doolin on the Galway bus.

    Steve the Hat got himself a lovely seat by the window, but then Sarah H decided she’d plonk herself next to him. Here is Sarah H playing.

    So, that’s the first post done, hopefully the excitement of the troops will calm down a little bit, as I felt that Dave wasn’t far away from ordering shots……. It was raining earlier this morning, but fortunately the sun is now shining. I can’t imagine that it’ll last.

  • Ireland – Ennis – Hike Norfolk Have Arrived

    Well, my peace and quiet will now be interrupted as the rest of the Hike Norfolk walkers (and drinkers) have arrived. What could possibly go wrong…..

  • Ireland – Ennis – Other Photos

    Some random photos of Ennis…… I leave here soon, but it’s been a rather lovely place and certainly very friendly. And quite rainy.

       

  • Ireland – Ennis – Milano

    I learn something new every day, although most days what I learn isn’t particularly useful or relevant to anyone. Anyway, I had never heard of the chain Milano, but it’s owned by Pizza Express, which is evident by the nearly otherwise identical branding. I don’t quite understand why they have a different name, it’s something to do with the trademark not being available in some countries.

  • Ireland – Ennis – Books About the Town of Ennis

    Since I had a little while in the library, I had some time to quickly read through a few of the books in the local history section.

     

    The War in Clare by Michael Brennan

    The story of the First World War in Ireland is of course very different to that of the First World War in Britain, as there was the additional element of the fight for Irish independence. This book is the story of Michael Brennan’s war, in memoirs which he completed in the 1930s. He writes about how he was involved in the Easter Rising and how he then spent the next few years in and out of prison.

    Brennan was interned for some of the war and found himself for a period at Reading prison, in what was formerly the women’s prison. He found himself here amongst people of primarily German and Austrian nationalities, but anyone who was considered a threat to the nation was in danger of being imprisoned.

    He also writes that “I have always emphasised to volunteers that armed action was only one arm in our fight for independence. I maintained that good propaganda was the other arm and the most important part of this was our own conduct. It was easy to behave well to our friends, but I argued that our critics and political opponents might become friends if we impressed them by our standards of conduct”.

    Brennan went on to become the Irish Defence Forces Chief of Staff between 1931 and 1940 and died at the age of 90 in 1986. The book at Ennis Library also has a personal connection to Brennan since he has signed it inside the front cover.

     

    Ennis in the 18th Century by Brian o Dalaigh:

    This small book has an introduction to the history of the town, explaining that it has its origins in the early thirteenth century when the O’Briens, the Kings of North Munster, moved their principal stronghold to the area. The town didn’t though grow much in size and by the beginning of the eighteenth century it was a modest unwalled town which was smaller than Galway and Limerick.

    It was only in the second half of the eighteenth century that the town started to really grow in size, and the book notes that the jurors of the corporation complained that “the carriages and chairs were daily in danger of being overturned by the vast number of horses, baskets and other lumber that on market days take up the whole street”.

    The infrastructure also struggled and most of the roads to and from Ennis were in a poor state of repair, with the Clare grand jury who was responsible for them simply not having enough money to fix them. So, in 1734 a Road Act was introduced to establish a series of toll roads, something which proved to be of benefit to Ennis as at least people could get there.

    The book also gives some population figures for Ennis in the eighteenth century, starting at 886 in 1700, going to 1,367 in 1720, to 2,108 in 1740, to 3,251 in 1760, to 4,906 in 1780 and to 7,567 in 1800. Although many of the urban improvements didn’t even start until the nineteenth century, and they were hardly completed then, the book notes that it was during the eighteenth century that “the essential pattern of urban life had been established”.

     

    Cathedral of St. Peter and St. Peter by John Bradley

    This large colourful book was published in 2015 and is generous in terms of the number of photographs inside of it. What is now Ennis Cathedral was conceived as a church in the 1830s, although it wasn’t opened and blessed until 1843. There were renovations in 1894 and in 1973, and it eventually gained the status of a cathedral in 1990. A more recent substantial project was the restoration of the spire in 2004, which cost a not insignificant €1.6 million.

    The level of information is deep, without making the book unreadable. Although I’m still wondering why the beautiful railings which were added around the church in 1876 were ripped out in 1973 to be used instead in the garden of a private house in Killoo, Clarecastle. I also like how the cathedral clock became known as the ‘four faced liar’ as every one of the four faces told a different time.

     

    Ennis at Work in the 19th Century by Lucille Ellis

    This book is the story of how the town of Ennis grew during the nineteenth century, although it has been written from the perspective of certain occupations and families from the period. As a result the text feels rather random in places, although it’s an interesting look at some of the important families in the town.

    The author quotes a description written in the 1770s by John Howard of the town’s hospital, which was the County Infirmary on Mill Road, who wrote:

    “The County Infirmary at Ennis, built around fifteen years ago, has two wards on the first floor, one for each sex. The floors and walls were very dirty. None of the patients had sheets, two excepted, who said they brought in all their bedding; the others lay on a little hay or straw, and had hardly any blankets to cover them. No fuel”.

    Sounds a marvellous model of medical care…… Anyway, the book does seem a bit loose in its construction, but there are a few interesting photos of buildings in the late nineteenth century.

  • Ireland – Ennis – Brogan’s

    Brogan’s, a pub located on O’Connell Street in Ennis, and it’s a sizeable family run concern..

    The pub’s ‘James Joyce Award for Being an Authentic Irish Pub’ which is on the exterior wall.

    A well stocked back bar in the pub, which was spotlessly clean throughout. It was also busy on the Friday lunchtime that I visited, with a few of us at the bar drinking and most tables filled with diners.

    I’d already had lunch of a cake and coffee elsewhere, so I decided to have a pint of Murphy’s as a dessert. The staff in the pub were all friendly and helpful, and it was a comfortable environment, indeed, perhaps too comfortable….

    The sink in the male toilet, quite a smart little effort.

    All in all, a rather lovely pub and it’s nearly everything that I’d expect an Irish pub to be. It seems that it has a reputation for singers and performers who do their thing on most evenings of the week, but lunch-time was a more peaceful time of the day in that regard.

  • Ireland – Ennis – De Valera Public Library

    The town’s public library was on my route back to the hotel, so I decided it would be a marvellous idea to pop inside. The public library is on the site of a former Church of Ireland Hall from 1890, which is behind a Presbyterian Church dating from 1856. The church building is today used as an exhibition gallery, and unfortunately not used by the library.

    The front of the former church.

    The entrance tunnel into the library, running alongside the former church.

    Some unique sculptures in the gardens of the library.

    A nicely laid out library with a surprisingly large collection of books on British politics, actually larger and better curated than Norwich Library. Anyway, there was probably an excellent range of local history books for me to have a look at as well, but the area was being used by a poetry club, so I didn’t want to intrude on their arrangements. Even though the poetry club had also taken over most of the tables in the library as well, but at least it gets people into the building.