Another of the Tchorek plaques, which mark where people were killed during the Second World War, this one is located on a property next to where Władysław Szpilman hid. The plaque reads:
“The place sanctified by the blood of Poles who died for the freedom of their homeland. In this house on 7 August 1944, the Hitlerites murdered about 50 people, residents of the block. Among the victims were many children.”
And back to an outlet of Cukiernia Sowa….. I’ve posted about other visits to this chain over the last couple of weeks, so I won’t repeat the concept behind the operation. But, I very much like their friendly staff, comfortable cafes and the cheap prices, they are my Polish Greggs.
Big smiles from the staff member, a lovely clean cafe and a comfortable seating area, all that I expected from the chain. I’m consciously now seeking outlets of this chain out, a little slice of calm. The food and drink is excellent and there was a mixed clientele, although they all seemed to be locals rather than visitors to the city. The staff member brought the coffee and cake over to me, whereas they normally call out the order, but there’s always counter service which keeps things nice and simple.
I rewatched The Pianist film a couple of weeks ago, which is the true story of Władysław Szpilman, a Jewish pianist who survived the Second World War having gone through severe adversity. I haven’t read the book itself, although I now have a copy and will finish it this week. The film came out in 2002 and was directed by Roman Polanski, who himself had been imprisoned in the Krakow ghetto as a child.
Anyway, after many near captures by Germans in Warsaw, and a period in the Warsaw ghetto, Szpilman thinks his time is up when a German officer finds him hiding in the damaged building at al. Niepodległości 223, in the above photo. His story is long and complex, too long to repeat here, but Szpilman was near to death on numerous occasions.
The German officer was Wilhelm Hosenfeld, but this man was different to what Szpilman would have initially feared and he disagreed with the atrocities which were being committed against the Jewish community in Poland and indeed to non-Jewish Poles. He protected Szpilman and his decency and valour secured him a posthumous listing in the Righteous Among the Nations. Only 627 Germans have been recognised in this way, with few being senior members of the military.
There is now a plaque outside the building.
This is Wilhelm Hosenfeld, who saved the life of Władysław Szpilman, who was able to return to his musical career and lived until 2000. Szpilman lost all of his close family members and it was only a series of miracles that he managed to survive himself in the remains that left of Warsaw. Hosenfeld was killed by the Soviets in 1952, but he saved Szpilman and it was rather lovely to see the building where his act of kindness took place.
And some random photos of Bialystok that didn’t quite fit in anywhere else…..
This Roman Catholic church was constructed between 1927 and 1946, on the site of a former cemetery which was badly damaged by the Russians in 1863. It’s a different design to many Polish churches, with a decision having been made to build it in a modernist style. Work had progressed well, with a mass taking place in 1941, until the Germans interfered with the arrangements by invading Poland and then later turning this church into a barracks for its soldiers, but it was fortunately completed. This was despite the Soviets wanting for a while to turn the building into a circus after the end of the Second World War, something which I can only imagine what the local clergy thought of.
The church is in a dominant position in the city on elevated ground. There had been a chapel on the site which was constructed in 1741, although this is no longer standing, having met a similar fate to the cemetery.
There is a memorial in front of the church to those who died when flight TU-154 crashed on 10 April 2010, killing 96 people, including the President of Poland. Also killed was Ryszard Kaczorowski, a politician born in Bialystok, who was the last president of the Polish Republic in exile.
World Trade Centers are usually members of the World Trade Centers Association, usually in grand buildings and having quite noble motives. I wonder whether this shop in Bialystok was perhaps being just a little aspirational with its naming. I think there are only two officials WTCs in Poland, in the cities of Warsaw and Poznan.
There aren’t a large number of craft beer options in the old town area, perhaps the best two are this one and Restauracja Maryensztadt.
The specialism is in not just craft beer, but also in pizza, two things that go beautifully together. There’s a more restauranty area and a bar area, something useful for those who just want a drink and don’t want to get in the way as there are a limited number of tables.
An extensive enough list of beers, all clearly presented. Four of the ten beers are dark options, which is a percentage that I wish was replicated in every bar specialising in craft beer, or indeed, real ale.
The beer, which was at the appropriate temperature and tasted fine. The unfortunate consequence of my writing this up a few days after going there is that I’ve forgotten which one I ordered…. I need to get out more to sharpen my memory skills.
This was a slight error on my behalf, as the pizza is bigger than it looks in this photo. It actually takes up a chunk of the table and I apologised when it was served as it was clearly too big for one person, the extra-large size. I didn’t entirely need someone commenting on another table about “look at the size pizza that man is having” either, but I ignored them.
The pizza was a little under 17 inches and bear in mind that Domino’s say their extra-large 16 inch pizzas feed five to six people. Now that is ridiculous, these five or six people must be toddlers, but nonetheless, I could have perhaps limited myself to a medium pizza. My confusion was that the pizzas were listed in centimetres and I got muddled up…. However, the extra large wasn’t much more in cost than the medium, and since I ate the whole pizza anyway (just), I’m glad I got the one that I did.
Anyway, I digress, the Diavola pizza was delicious, lots of pepper, jalapenos and salami, with a thin base which had the appropriate amount of crispiness. I was glad that it was a thin pizza, there’s a limit to how much dough I could have ploughed through on a pizza this size. It also wasn’t so greasy that I dripped liquid all over the table as well, so I considered that it must be healthy.
The cost of this meal was a little ludicrous by Polish standards at around £12, but I didn’t need to have a large beer and the extra large pizza. The quality was high, the service was wonderfully friendly and the environment was clean and comfortable. A nice place, very relaxed.
It’s taken me several tram journeys to notice the pattern on the tram seats, scenes of historic Warsaw landmarks. Very nice.
Located in what is becoming the craft beer sector of Warsaw, this is a well reviewed bar which specialises in, well, craft beer. It wasn’t very busy when I went in, by which I mean that I was the first customer of the day. The member of staff was outside when I went in, I suspect he was slightly surprised to see a customer on a Sunday afternoon, but nonetheless he was friendly and helpful throughout.
The range of beers, clearly displayed on a board behind the bar. I was pleased to see a couple of dark options, but the choice was wide and most beer styles were represented on the board. There were also bottles for those who weren’t satisfied and delighted with the options from the tap.
The ‘One of Each’ from Browar Artezan, one of the beers which the bar makes themselves. Expensive by Polish standards, starting with an imperial stout is always a brave decision, but a strong burst of flavour seemed a sensible idea to me after visiting the Warsaw Uprising Museum. The beer was at the appropriate temperature and had a richness and depth of flavour, although it seemed limited to a quite chocolate flavour and not much else in terms of additional aftertastes. Still, it was refreshing, although ideally it needed just a little something else. I like a bit of subtlety.
Another customer did come in whilst I was in the bar, which was spotlessly clean and organised. It apparently gets busy on weekend evenings and it’s the sort of contemporary style environment that I like. All very lovely.
I visited this museum before and I think it’s the first historic attraction that I went to in Poland. Here we are, several hundred Polish historical experiences and several years later, and I thought it’d be good to pop back to the museum. It was free entrance today, being Sunday, so I knew it’d be busy, but that also saved me 25zl (around £5). I went to collect my free ticket from the cash desk and there was a short queue, but it only took around 30 seconds to get my ticket. The staff member was friendly, although I imagine he got fed up with issuing bits of paper to people all day for free.
I’ve also posted about the City of Ruins video and the Printing Press separately.
This was the exhibit which I found the most though-provoking, a simple city telephone directory. By the end of the Second World War, there were only around 1,000 people living in the central part of Warsaw, out of the over 1 million who lived there before the war had started.
The replica of the Liberator aircraft I mentioned in the City of Ruins post.
There’s a large cinema screen in the museum, and there are smaller set-ups as well. This part of the museum is quite open plan and there’s lots of space, other parts are more hemmed in and cramped. At the base of the cinema screen there’s an underground exhibit, which it’s probably easy to miss for those not paying attention.
On the large screen there was footage of the Warsaw Uprising, amazingly some of the film made by Poles was saved and was able to be made into a video. The Soviets apparently managed to lose, no doubt deliberately, the footage in 1946, but other copies were found.
A recreation of the city’s sewer network, which is how members of the Warsaw Uprising were able to move about parts of the city. The recreation is dark, I used a flash to get this photo.
By the time I left the museum, the queue to get in had got relatively sizeable. The brick building towards the back is the ticket desk, with the entrance to the museum area to the right of this photo. At this point there was likely around a 20 to 30 minute to get in, so I was pleased that I had arrived earlier on during the day.
I found that the navigation around the museum was just a little confusing, I frequently found myself not entirely sure where I was going. Fortunately, nor did anyone else, so no-one really seemed to care or mind. But, I like going around the museum in vaguely the way that the curators intended. I stayed for just under two hours, but those who wanted to see everything would no doubt need longer than that.
Overall, I really like this museum and it tells its story in a compelling manner. It was far too busy to enjoy properly though, which is no criticism of the museum, but for anyone wanting to look at the exhibits and read everything, it’s probably best to come on another day of the week which isn’t free admission Sunday. Despite the quite challenging nature of the material, the museum also seemed to engage children though and they liked collecting the bits of paper which told them what happened on each day.
