Tag: Warsaw

  • Warsaw – Potential Arson at the Wooden Bell Tower at the Cathedral of Our Lady of Victory

    Warsaw – Potential Arson at the Wooden Bell Tower at the Cathedral of Our Lady of Victory

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    I frequently go on about the quality of life in Warsaw, the low crime, the low level of anti-social behaviour, the strong policing, the low litter and all manner of other positive attributes about the city. However, one of the historic buildings in Warsaw was lost a few days ago and arson has yet to be ruled out from the investigation.

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    This bell tower is located next to the Cathedral of Our Lady of Victory and the wooden construction dated to around 1817. For reasons relating to German and Russian occupation, there’s not a huge amount that is old in Warsaw, so the loss of this is highly sub-optimal. It took fire fighters around two hours to put out and they have been able to save around 25% of the wooden structure and the bells in their steel frame also held up.

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    The two bells, one of which dated to 1772, did quite well not to fall down and so it seems that they can be repaired and there is some excellent documentation of the structure from a few years ago. I don’t know the official titles, but the heritage people have already been on site to work out how to fix the situation. Knowing Poland, it’ll be fixed the next time that I go by and I rather hope that it transpires not to be arson.

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    And a couple of graves located near to the bell tower.

  • Wizz Air (London Luton to Warsaw Chopin)

    Wizz Air (London Luton to Warsaw Chopin)

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    I usually don’t write anything about the flights I take, but a change is as good as a rest and all that. I’m not sure that Luton Airport has really mastered the art of returning flights efficiently, but the security process is now quite efficient. I have to confess to pure idiocy during security when I managed to leave my belt on during the security scan. I blame the confusion on their policy of leaving liquids and laptops in the bag which throws my system. The member of security staff was though not deterred and, thankfully, my brief masterclass in how not to do security seemed to escape wider notice, preserving my fragile dignity in aviation matters.

    They announced the gate quite early, an hour before the flight, the delights of Gate 32 beckoned. Having endured the boarding methodologies back in my BA days, which often resembled a polite but ultimately confusing game of human Tetris, Wizz Air’s approach felt refreshingly straightforward. Every passenger knows, or should know, where to go from signage and they didn’t take long to board everyone. Admittedly, that leads to a lot of waiting on the stairs in the airport terminal to board, but at least it feels efficient although it’s less ideal for people who prefer to have a little sit down rather than balance themselves and their luggage on steps.

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    The aircraft was ready and for the sake of completion, the registration is 9H-wNE, the same aircraft I went from Gdansk to London Luton on a few months ago. It’s hard not to make that sound quite geekish, but as a reminder, for my two loyal blog readers who can’t remember, it’s an Airbus A321 which was delivered to Wizz Air in March 2024. Feel free to use that aviation nugget of information at your next dinner party, instant social success guaranteed…..

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    I’ve had a long series of good fortune from the seating Gods where I’ve been aisle or window seats, but that luck had run out for this flight when I was randomly given a middle seat. I always vaguely hope that one of the passengers doesn’t turn up, but they both did. Both were Polish, the one by the aisle fell asleep for most of the flight and the other managed to consume several Polish beers and then needed me to wake up the aisle guy from his hibernation for obvious reasons. I’m not sure that they entirely managed to follow my rule of letting the middle seat passenger have the arm rests, but since that’s a rule I’ve created it’s one that’s hard to enforce. Fortunately, this isn’t a long flight and two hours later we were landing into Warsaw.

    The crew on the flight were well presented, engaging and efficient, although that’s the normality for Wizz Air flights I’ve found. Announcements from the pilots were in Polish with a shorter English version following soon after and the safety briefing was completely in a way that the CAA would be pleased by.

    The delights of Warsaw always excite me, so I didn’t even mind that it was a bus that took us to border control. Most passengers on the flight were Polish or had EU passports, so the queue for my passport to be stamped was relatively short. The border agent was friendly and for this visit didn’t require a detailed explanation of my life before letting me into Poland. The flight is with my Multi Pass, which I’m still moderately obsessed with, so it cost just £8.99. Armrest battles aside, Wizz Air delivered the goods once again as far as I was concerned.

  • Warsaw – Reason Behind Hotel Bristol Name

    Warsaw – Reason Behind Hotel Bristol Name

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    This is an aside, just because it loops back to a post I wrote a few days ago about Frederick Hervey, the 4th Earl of Bristol (1730–1803). This rather decadent hotel in Warsaw was constructed between 1899 and 1901 on the site of the former Tarnowski Palace, opening to the public on 19 November 1901. Unusually for central Warsaw, some of the structure remained standing after the Second World War as the Germans had been using it themselves, meaning that it could be re-opened relatively quickly at the end of the conflict. It was taken over by Orbis, who today are known for running all Accor hotels in Poland amongst numerous other things, with plans to demolish it in the 1970s fortunately disregarded. It’s now part of the Marriott chain, but I rather like the link to Ickworth House with the hotel name, which has remained unchanged since 1901.

  • Warsaw – Metro System : C4 Bemowo (Visiting Every Station)

    Warsaw – Metro System : C4 Bemowo (Visiting Every Station)

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    Next on my expedition to visit every metro station in Warsaw was Bemowo, at the western end of the M2 line. Construction of the station started in 2019 and it opened for passenger usage on 30 June 2022, with the station name being simply the name of the district that it’s located in, although during planning it was named after the street it’s on, ‘Powstańców Śląskich’. It’s a residential area of the city and something of a transportation hub, so the extension out here seems rather sensible.

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    The Church of the Roman Catholic Parish of St. Luke the Evangelist which was constructed in 2001, with the parish having been established in December 1992 by Cardinal Józef Glemp. The first Holy Mass had been celebrated on May 31, 1990, at the site of the future church.

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    It might have my initials, but I can’t imagine me starting a construction company on the grounds I’m not keen on changing light bulbs.

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    The sculpture of General Józef Zachariasz Bem (1794–1850) who was a Polish military leader and national hero of both Poland and Hungary. He began his career in the Napoleonic Wars and rose to prominence during the 1830–1831 November Uprising in Poland, where he earned a reputation as a skilled artillery commander. Later, he played a key role in the Hungarian Revolution of 1848, leading forces in Transylvania to several significant victories against Austrian and Russian troops. His leadership, courage and tactical brilliance made him something of a beloved figure in both nations given how much he had surprised and delighted the populations. Following the collapse of the revolutions, Bem sought refuge in the Ottoman Empire, where he converted to Islam and continued his military career under the name Murad Pasha. He died in exile in Aleppo in 1850, although his remains were later brought back to Poland. Despite his exile, Bem’s legacy endured as he is remembered as a symbol of cross-national solidarity and the shared fight for independence, with statues and memorials honouring him in both Poland and Hungary.

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    Looks a bit industrial. This was on my way to look at the nearby Górczewska Park.

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    This text reads “SÁNDOR PETŐFI 1823 – 1849, Outstanding Hungarian poet Adjutant to Gen. J. Bem, Fell for freedom”. Unless my two loyal blog readers have already forgotten from two paragraphs ago, they already know about General Bem. Sándor Petőfi was a legendary Hungarian poet, revolutionary and something of a national hero. He is widely regarded as Hungary’s national poet and was one of the key figures of the Hungarian Revolution of 1848. Petőfi’s poetry, full of passionate calls for liberty and national pride, inspired revolutionary fervour among Hungarians. His most famous poem, “Nemzeti dal” (“National Song”), played a central role in igniting the revolution.

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    The park’s amphitheatre which was opened in 2008 and which can seat up to 1,000 spectators. From 2009, it was named the Michael Jackson Amphitheatre, which didn’t delight everyone and they took the name away in 2019 as it became too controversial. It was originally given this name because he did some sort of musical event at the nearby airport, Warsaw-Babice Airport.

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    Some trees and a park seems a sensible place to put them.

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    A hill in the park with a playground on it.

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    It started raining so I thought that I’d better get back.

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    Going down the steps.

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    The station design which seems less decadent than they could have made it given that it’s a new station and the ones before looked, well, more jazzy. The plan was to use weathering steel, or Corten Steel, as apparently this rustiness looks interesting. I’m not entirely convinced, but there we go.

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    The ever useful metro map. The task of constructing the C4 Bemowo station, along with the preceding C5 Ulrychów station and connecting tunnels, was awarded to a consortium comprising the Turkish company Gülermak Ağır Sanayi İnşaat ve Taahhüt A.Ş. as the leader, and the Italian company Astaldi S.p.A., both of whom had experience in building other bits of the network in the city. While the station box itself was constructed using the cut-and-cover method, typical for Warsaw Metro stations, the connecting tunnels were bored using Tunnel Boring Machines (TBMs), which were named “Krystyna” and “Elisabetta”.

  • Warsaw – View of the City from 1850

    Warsaw – View of the City from 1850

    Slightly randomly, as is the central theme of this blog, I rather liked this view of Warsaw from around 1850 as I hadn’t seen it before. Created by Adam Pilinsky, it’s from the Praga side (or east bank) of the city looking into the central area that is now known as the Old Town.

  • Warsaw to Ciechanów Train – PKP

    Warsaw to Ciechanów Train – PKP

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    For reasons unknown to me, the hotel prices in Warsaw were excessively high which is unusual, so I thought I’d spent a night in Ciechanów as it’s only one hour away by train. I started from Warszawa Centralna, which I’ve written about numerous times before.

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    Mine was the 11:00 to Kołobrzeg, which cost the equivalent of £6 despite booking in on the morning of the journey. I’ve also noted many times before that I love these yellow sheets of paper, they’re clear and informative.

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    There we go, platform 2.

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    Down the escalator.

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    The UK have these screens, but they rarely work correctly in terms of getting you to stand in the right place for the carriage you’re booked into. This one worked perfectly for me.

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    There we go and the train started in Łódź, it reminds me that I want to go there again soon.

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    They still have corridor trains, although much of the seating is more as it is in the UK. The seats are comfortable, they come with double arm-rests so each person has one each (not that there was anyone else in my cabin thing) and power points.

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    And arriving on time….

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    The train departing off to northern Poland.

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    And the new and shiny railway station.

  • Warsaw – Hopito Chmielna

    Warsaw – Hopito Chmielna

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    I might have made a mistake here…. Not a substantial one, not indeed one of any consequence, but I’ve just realised that I’m not entirely sure that I’ve visited one of the city’s main craft beer bars before. This isn’t so much of an oversight but just something in my mind that I thought it was a different place and this only became apparent to me when I visited the sister bar again last week.

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    So, aware of the confusion that I’ve created for myself, I needed to resolve it by going to the bar to see what I’ve evidently missed out on.

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    The beer board and the latest version is available at https://hopito-chmielna.ontap.pl/. The service was exceptional, the team member was engaging, personable and knowledgeable. He pro-actively made recommendations and suggested trying a different beer which he thought he’d like more than the one I’d ordered. He transpired to be correct. Back to the beer list, it felt well curated with a range of beer styles and ABVs to choose from, as well as a cider or two.

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    The first beer was Puder from Browar Cztery, a rich fruit flavoured sour which a lingering taste of banana with some mango. Smooth….

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    The second beer was the Royal Cookie – Mexican Hot Chocolate from the ever wonderful Funky Fluid. And this 12% ABV beer was excellent, smooth, rich and decadent. There was some sweetness, some residual heat, creaminess and punchy flavours. A proper liquid dessert.

    The burger was better than I anticipated and I just went for the basic one. The burger was cooked medium and it had a depth of taste and flavour, with the texture being juicy. The bun was lightly toasted and there was gherkin to add texture, with the chips being firm on the exterior and fluffy inside. The coleslaw was creamy and I thought that it all went marvellously with the beer.

    What with two outlets, one doing marvellous pizzas and the other doing marvellous burgers, there’s definitely something in the one thing done well approach. The venue is well reviewed on-line and it’s clear that they have been surprising and delighting their customers. I really liked this bar, the welcome felt authentic, the surroundings were comfortable and the food and drink were verging towards an exceptional quality. I’ll definitely be back and it’s evident to me that I’ve missed out on a bar that I should have noticed before that I hadn’t been to.

  • Warsaw – Metro System : C20 Kondratowicza (Visiting Every Station)

    Warsaw – Metro System : C20 Kondratowicza (Visiting Every Station)

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    Next up on my plan to visit every metro station in Warsaw, this is Kondratowicza on the M2 line. It’s a recent addition to the network having opened to the public on 28 September 2022.

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    These information panels are commonplace across the network and they are rather useful in terms of navigation.

    The photo on the right is from Google Streetview in 2018, the one on the left is from 2022. It is really a microcosm of just how fast this city is developing, expanding and improving.

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    The metro station is opposite Szpital Bródnowski, one of the most important hospitals on the right side of the Vistula River and a major teaching hospital. There’s an exit that goes practically right into the building, so it’s a convenient situation for patients.

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    As an aside, there seem to be ever more clearly laid out cycling and pedestrian sections, all rather marvellous in promoting people to get cycling.

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    Nearby is Park Bródnowski which is also a free sculpture park, so a rather marvellous cultural project and it has been increasing in size for many years.

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    I decided to take a photo of a bird using the feeder but the bloody thing flew off, so here’s a photo of a bird feeder without a bird.

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    This is usually full of water with a statue of a woman lying on her back in the middle of the pond. The sculpture was created during art workshops conducted by Pawel Althamer for members of a group who all have multiple sclerosis. They worked on the project together, but each person executed a different part of the figure which has deliberately led to different proportions.

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    This was certainly visually interesting and the sculpture is called Zinaxin and Dolacin, created by Magdalena Abakanowicz in 2005. Their names are taken from arthritis medicines and it’s apparently “a quest for a new take on the human figure in the context of the traumatic history of the twentieth century.”

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    The Guardian Angel sculpture, designed by Roman Stanczak in 2013 and it’s designed to have multiple values which aren’t necessarily religious.

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    This was quite a common thing around the park, I haven’t quite understood what the significance is.

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    The main water feature is a little empty….

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    Here’s what it usually looks like.

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    This quirky little shed is known as the Teahouse with Coffee Maker, it’s a steel cube that was designed to resemble a spaceship. It was returned to the original artist, Rirkrit Tiravanija, many years ago but they decided to construct a replacement one and this was overseen by Pawel Althamer and Michal Mioduszewski. It’s thought to be the smallest cultural centre in Warsaw and it can be hired out.

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    The Daughters of Brodno sculpture which was designed to be a self-portrait of local people, inspired to be similar in concept to Rodin’s The Burghers of Calais. Over 100 people are attended concept workshops and they decided on numerous different figures, including a goddess, a poet, a public official, a saint, a senior citizen and an athlete.

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    It’s quite a complex and engaging sculpture.

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    Back to Kondratowicza metro station. It’s a poetic arrangement in terms of its heritage as the station (and the street it’s under) is named after Ludwik Kondratowicz (1823-1862), a 19th-century Polish poet and translator of Belarusian origin who wrote under the popular pen name Władysław Syrokomla.

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    And another colourful affair.

  • Warsaw – Avocado Muffin at McDonald’s

    Warsaw – Avocado Muffin at McDonald’s

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    Just as another random post of no relevance to anyone other than me, the avocado muffin is perhaps the best thing on the McDonald’s menu. It’s £3 for the muffin and a coffee….. The presentation isn’t important, this isn’t a fine dining experience, but egg and avocado are a beautiful match. Maybe in a few years the UK might catch up. And yes I know there are a lot of independent restaurants in Warsaw that do better presentation, but I want to read my book for an hour and not take up a table that might otherwise be needed……

  • Warsaw – Warsaw Beer Festival (Raduga Brewery)

    Warsaw – Warsaw Beer Festival (Raduga Brewery)

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    Next up at Warsaw Beer Festival was Raduga Brewery, another one that I haven’t come across during my Polish visits. I liked the Fruit Mate name, very Inbetweeners.

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    There was certainly a range of colours and textures visible here. From back left to back right and then front left and front right:

    (i) Fruit Mate #4 – heaps of kiwi in this and an ingredient that I couldn’t initially work out, but it’s tea…. It was all a bit clumpy and slightly odd, but I was drawn to it despite it being rather medicinal.

    (ii) Peach Melba – like a rhubarb and custard sweet, a sourness from the peach and a lingering flavour that I couldn’t identify, but it’s likely fruit of some kind and that’s not a specialism of mine.

    (iii) Sour Forest – this is quite tart even for me and I like a heap of sourness, but it’s juicy, thick and tastes of currants. Like a decadent and punchy fruit juice.

    (iv) Soft Garden – possibly the least appetising looking beer that I’ve seen, it was positively clumpy and not a pretty colour. There was a taste of banana, maybe apple alongside tastes of lawnmowers and garden sheds.

    (v) Fruit Mate #3 – there’s a bit of pineapple and it wasn’t entirely well rounded beer.

    (vi) Trapeze – light, fruity but nothing much deeper than that.

    I did enjoy these, even though I was sitting in a deckchair trying not to look like an idiot…. The brewery’s output is what I would call rustic, but who wants perfectly rounded beers all the time? There has to be room for experimentation, adventure and ugliness along the way.

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    Incidentally, look at the state of the Warsaw weather in this short video…. It was too hot yesterday and then we had a little snow blizzard.