Walking. Gossip. Travel.

Tag: Southwark

  • London – Southwark (Borough of) – Original Site of Globe Theatre

    London – Southwark (Borough of) – Original Site of Globe Theatre

    I’ve walked in this area around London Bridge railway station hundreds of times, but I was never aware that the original site of the Globe Theatre is partly marked out. The theatre was first constructed in 1599, but was destroyed by fire in 1613 (a cannon misfired during a performance of Henry VIII, which wasn’t ideal), before being rebuilt in 1614. The Puritans ordered theatres to close in 1642 in case anyone might dare enjoy themselves, with the building demolished between 1644 and 1645.

    That was really that for the theatre, until 1988 when construction in the area found some of the building’s foundations. The area has been heavily built on over the last few centuries, not least the listed building at 67-70 Anchor Terrace. It’s not possible to dig more without taking the Anchor Terrace buildings down, but there are likely some foundations from the theatre present under those properties.

    The location of the former theatre is on the South Bank of the Thames and is marked out with a cursor on the above map (clicking on the image makes it a little larger and easier to see) from the early twentieth century, at a time when they weren’t aware of the foundations being there. The Globe was rebuilt in a modern form in 1997 (although as true to the original as they realistically could and it’s the only building in the city of London which is thatched and they had to get special permission for that), but is on a site a little further west, around 250 metres, along the Thames.

    There are a number of information boards at the site, including this easy to understand map of the site, which helped place things in the modern built-up environment. For anyone interested in the history of theatre and similar things, I’d say that it’s worth a little meander here to have a look, and it’s also known that Shakespeare lived nearby so that he could be at the theatre on a regular basis.

  • London – Southwark (Borough of) – Kernel Brewery Taproom Arch 7

    London – Southwark (Borough of) – Kernel Brewery Taproom Arch 7

    A group of four us had a great idea to visit some pubs along the Bermondsey Beer Mile (specifically it was my idea, but I don’t mind sharing the credit) including a trip to Kernel, which is a bar that I haven’t visited before and it’s the brewery known for its quirky branding on brown paper labels. Although this is a relatively new location at Arch 7, Kernel were the first breweries to have a taproom along here and they still brew a few doors down from this unit.

    Although I’m sure it’s mostly just me, I found this to be one of the more confusing beer menus I’ve seen, so much so it confused the staff as well when taking orders. I ordered the Export India Porter and the India Double Porter, with the friendly staff member handing me one glass and saying “that’s the India Porter” which I only realised wasn’t entirely helpful when I sat down, it would have perhaps been easier to have beer names than using the beer style as the name. What initially looks to be a beer name are actually the hops which are used, which I noted confused other customers as well. Anyway, the drink needs of our group were quite varied, but there was something for all of us (and primarily me, which was my main priority if I’m being honest) as there were numerous different beer styles available.

    One of my two porters, both were suitably decadent and drinkable.

    This is what I thought to be a welcoming environment in its surroundings under the railway arches with several tables on the ground floor and there’s also a few seats on the upper level looking down. The availability of power points was useful and the whole arrangement is almost inevitably all on-trend given the location and products being sold.

    For anyone meandering along the Bermondsey Beer Mile I’d recommend this bar (which is also very well-reviewed on-line), not least because of its heritage in the area. Kernel brew some really nice stouts and they didn’t let me down on that score, with the staff being friendly and everything was clean and organised.

  • London – Southwark (Borough of) – St Saviour’s War Memorial

    London – Southwark (Borough of) – St Saviour’s War Memorial

    There’s a Wikipedia page to this monument on Borough High Street that gives more information than I can here, but this is one of the more striking war memorials that I’ve seen. The monument, which was funded by public subscription, was unveiled in November 1922 and is on a base of Portland stone with a bronze sculpture on the top.

    The bronze sculpture was designed by Philip Lindsey Clark (1889-1977) who has a distinguished war record of his own, winning the DSO. The unveiling of the memorial was overseen by General Lord Horne, a Commander of the British First Army during the First World War, but the Bishop of Southwark was ill, so the dedication was performed by the Bishop of Woolwich. There was singing led by the choir of Southwark Cathedral and the Last Post and the Reveille were played by the Life Guards. Lord Horne gave a little ‘motivational’ speech saying that nine out of ten of those men who were dying on the frontline had said as their last words that they wanted someone to look after their wife and family.

    This finely decorated bronze tablet shows battleships with another tablet on the other side showing planes.

    The memorial was removed for an extensive restoration in 2013, being returned in the following year. The memorial is now Grade II* listed with the architectural listing mentioning:

    “* a well-executed war memorial of striking composition using high quality materials and demonstrating excellent craftsmanship;

    * a fine example of the work of the distinguished sculptor Philip Lindsey Clark with bronze figural sculpture and reliefs of exceptional quality;

    * it is relatively uncommon with First World War memorials to feature the role of the air services in combat; by including a bronze relief of an air combat scene, St Saviour’s war memorial demonstrates the growing importance of the use of aviation in combat in the First World War.”

  • London – Southwark (Borough of) – Marquis of Wellington

    London – Southwark (Borough of) – Marquis of Wellington

    This looked like an intriguing pub and so I thought I’d have a little sit down in here, since it was quite a long walk from where I had just come from, which was Hawkes. Well, it was around thirty metres, but walking can be a thirsty exercise. The pub is operated by the Bermondsey Pub Company, the managed house division of the EI Group, formerly known as Enterprise Inns.

    There was a particularly personable staff member at the entrance and he set the tone for this pub, quirky, off-beat and comfortable. That’s not a bad set of attributes for a pub to aim for. I had already eaten sufficient pizza for the day, but this pub also offered them, although a customer tried to order at just gone 18:00 and they had already stopped serving for the day.

    I’m not sure how practical this is for a table, but I like the concept. Incidentally, this is another pub that has installed plenty of power points, I’ve had a good day for these today.

    I thought that the drinks selection was a bit disjointed, although they have the Gamma Ray from Beavertown, which is acceptable to me. They also have a web-site in some need of attention, as their newsletter and offers page is broken when anything is submitted. Anyway, there was a warm welcome here and a comfortable environment, with the quirkiness all working well. With a slightly more intriguing range of beers, this would have been a lot better, but everything seemed well managed and I’d merrily recommend it to others.

  • London – Southwark (Borough of) – Hawkes Cidery

    London – Southwark (Borough of) – Hawkes Cidery

    I admit that I hadn’t heard of the Bermondsey Beer Mile until last week, which is probably another one of my little oversights. There are quite a few of these to be fair. Anyway, there are some tremendous bars along this route, although a lot of them are closed mid-week and a few haven’t re-opened due to the current health issue. I definitely need to come back on a weekend.

    I can’t judge which venues in London will be busy and which won’t, and I booked a table probably needlessly as it was relatively quiet. But, best to be sure. I took advantage of their two pizzas offer when I booked, but then had to e-mail to check that one person was allowed to do this. They replied promptly saying that was fine and the staff member who replied remembered my e-mail when I turned up. On that matter, the staff here were personable, laid-back and keen to welcome customers, all very lovely.

    It’s a while since I’ve thought much about ciders, but I think that I might start thinking about them again. I went for the Dead & Berried Mixed Berry which was sweet, elegant and way too drinkable, with lovely flavours of raspberries. I also tried some Pineapple Punch, which was again so smooth it would be easy to forget that it was alcoholic. The pineapples certainly took the taste of the apples away, something a little different. I think there are some tasting trays available for those who want to try more, which I should have probably experimented with. Incidentally, I’m moderately obsessed with blackberries, I hope they do a cider packed with them with the apples.

    This is all beautifully on-trend, but they probably aren’t aiming for that. Instead, I’m guessing, although I didn’t ask, that they just created somewhere they liked and hoped other people would like it as well, rather than going for something formulaic. This venue is in a railway arch and they also have a cidery on site where their products are made, it’s quite a sizeable location. Indeed, if anyone wants to send this place some apples, they send back cider, which seems quite a good deal to me. I might collect all the apples that Accor hotels keep giving me and send them here en masse.

    I didn’t need two pizzas, but the staff member reassured me that this is a common thing to do. I bet it isn’t and she wanted me to feel better, but I didn’t much care. I liked the Diavola Chorizo, on the left, the best, but the Prosciutto on the right was also sufficiently tasty for my needs. I finished them both, but then realised I should come back here to get a Nduja pizza, I’ll just have to find someone to come with me to avoid ending up with two pizzas to myself though. Actually, on reflection, that would be fine.

    The pizza menu, which is different to the one on the web-site.

    On a customer service technicality, no-one mentioned the app (excuse the pun) to me and there was apparently a £5 off offer on there to anyone who spent £10. As someone who likes these sort of offers, I’d have merrily gone for that. It slightly annoyed me that they didn’t mention it. But not enough to dislike this place, which is a beautiful concept and one which I hope rolls out to more locations around the country. As an aside, they have a few beers which I think are from Brewdog, as well as some wines for those that insist on drinking them.

    All told, I haven’t been to a place like this where it’s all about the apple, and, well, some other fruit as well. Friendly, laid-back and comfortable, I’m pretty sure that I’ll come back. All rather lovely.

  • London – Southwark (Borough of) – The Trinity

    London – Southwark (Borough of) – The Trinity

    This isn’t a great photo of the pub’s frontage, but it’ll have to do as I’m not walking back there to take another one. It’s another Fuller’s pub and I’ve been impressed with their estate with this week, although this one had the more limited beer range that I had anticipated from their other venues. The welcome was no less generous though, I’m not sure whether Fuller’s are just recruiting friendly and able staff, or perhaps they have a first-class customer service programme.

    The interior of the pub, all quite open and modern in its styling, with a major restoration having just been undertaken by Fuller’s. The staff member at the bar was also very patient with a customer (not me) who marched in the exit, seemed to understand the card-only rule before trying to pay with cash and then walked around looking lost. Everything seemed clean and comfortable, with the handy advantage of having power points on the walls so that I could charge my laptop.

    So, although I’m not sure that there’s anything exceptional here I’d want to mention, it was a laid-back location that seemed well managed. The half-pint of London Pride that I went for was well-kept and tasted as I expected, although I’d have ideally liked something a bit more exciting. The pub did offer food, although it was priced towards the higher end of the scale.

  • London – Southwark (Borough of) – The Ship

    London – Southwark (Borough of) – The Ship

    My opinion of Fuller’s has very much changed this week, some of their pubs are way above average and I had been expecting them to just be offering London Pride in the main. The choice has been much better than that and there’s some quirkiness, in a positive way, to what they’re offering. This Fuller’s pub has a traditional feel to it, located relatively near to Borough underground station and to Mercato Metropolitano.

    The welcome at the pub was prompt and friendly, with the staff member showing me to a table outside and then explaining the set-up at the pub. Customers could either order at the bar, or scan a QR code to order direct to the table. Everything seemed well managed and organised, with a few different real ales to choose from. Nothing overly exciting in terms of dark options, but I’ve never seen the HSB before and so went for that.

    And here it is, not bad at all, Fuller’s say that it has a taste of Dundee Cake and I had to look up what that was (fruit cake with currants, sultanas and almonds). I’m not sure I got those tastes, I got notes of toffee, but it was all rather refreshing and was well-kept.

    The outside garden was suitably cooling and there were no wasps around to irritate me, something that happens too often when I sit outside. It was all organised and laid-back, this is a quite lovely way to spend the afternoon.

    And the pub sign. All told, a perfectly decent pub which had a community feel to it. The service was friendly, the pub was clean and the environment was comfortable. So, all rather lovely.