Tag: Belgrade Trip

  • Belgrade Trip – Zendwich

    Belgrade Trip – Zendwich

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    This whole complex of eateries and drinkeries seemed on-trend and exciting, with the Asian inspired Zendwich looking particularly well reviewed. The service was welcoming, whilst the staff member was conversational and pro-actively explained the menu concept. They had some outside tables, but it was raining and so I didn’t fancy those (and I don’t like sitting outside anyway, it’s full of insects and heat). Inside there were two tables downstairs and there were two people sitting at one of them, so the staff member suggested that I could go upstairs if I wanted.

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    It was a bit bare, but I liked it. There are numerous venues which operate from the site, which is the former BIP brewery, which went bust in 2015, although they stopped brewing at this site in 1989.

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    The authorities were going to demolish it all and redevelop the site, but it has evolved into something that I think is more exciting. And it has saved them spending a fortune on restoring it.

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    The beer was the Hoptopod from Dogma Brewery, a clean and hoppy little number. I was merrily engaged with scrolling endlessly through my phone and I realised that 35 minutes later that my food hadn’t arrived. I decided that if it didn’t arrive within five minutes I’d better go and chase the matter up, but just at that moment the staff member comes up full of apologies and mentions that he’s forgotten to put the order through. I mean, he did only have one order to put through, but I was in no rush and I liked the place, so this wasn’t a problem.

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    My chicken katsu, which I accept isn’t the most Serbian of dishes, was excellent with the sauce being full of flavour and the potatoes and carrots (which I’m not sure are staples of Japanese cuisine) were soft and actually tasty. The chicken was tender, but crispy on the exterior, with a depth of taste to the sauce. The rice was perfectly cooked and it was suitably filling, so all very agreeable.

    Despite the long wait for food, I was here for just over an hour and that worked out well as it had stopped raining by the time I left. I liked the friendliness of the service, with an effort made to provide tasty food and a selection of craft beers. Asian style craft beer restaurants are high on my list of favourite food and drink combinations. Definitely recommended.

  • Belgrade Trip – Axiom Beograd Craft Beer

    Belgrade Trip – Axiom Beograd Craft Beer

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    After all that walking, I felt that it was necessary to get a quick beer. I had a look at the Untappd Verified venues and this one was nearby and it looked like it had a decent selection of craft beers. It’s the venue in the centre of the photo, I would have likely walked by it if I hadn’t of known that it was here.

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    The beer list is neatly presented on the wall and there was a friendly welcome, although I thought the staff member thought I was lost rather than looking for a beer.

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    I started with the Hop Charger from Axiom Brewery, a very hoppy beer, although that isn’t unexpected given the name. It had quite a bitter kick, but the fruitiness lingered. I’m not keen on these little glasses, they don’t seem entirely functional to me.

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    The environment, there was wi-fi and there were places to charge devices for anyone who needed them. There is food served, but I think they just go and acquire it from premises a couple of doors down. But, that seems like a practical solution.

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    The prices were reasonable (well, by UK standards) and it was a welcoming venue, so I went for a can of Danube Fruit Stew from 3bir, as that sounded like a suitable local beer to get. It’s a fruited sour, which is one of my favourite beer types, and it wasn’t thick or lumpy, but was smooth, suitably tart and with lingering blackcurrant flavours. And it was obviously very healthy with all that fruit in it.

    A suitably positive experience for my first beer in Serbia.

  • Belgrade Trip – Belgrade Fortress (Institute for the Protection of Cultural Monuments)

    Belgrade Trip – Belgrade Fortress (Institute for the Protection of Cultural Monuments)

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    I liked a repurposed building, this was initially built between 1902 and 1904 for the General Staff of the Serbian Army. It was heavily damaged during the First World War bombings, but was repaired and used as the History Department of the General Staff until 1928. As an aside, if I joined the military, that’s where I’d quite like to work. Brave as I am, I feel my archiving skills would be better than my fighting skills. Anyway, I digress. The building then became used as a home for the military museum in 1937, but they were moved out in 1961 and it was given to the Institute for the Protection of Cultural Monuments. I do wonder why such a lovely building that would make a fine museum has been given over to the organisation that likely hands out buildings that would make fine museums, but there we go.

  • Belgrade Trip – Belgrade Fortress (Views)

    Belgrade Trip – Belgrade Fortress (Views)

    Just photos of the view from the Belgrade Fortress. It’s evident why they built the fortress on a high point where two rivers meet, but this always proved to be a defensive challenge for the occupiers. As an aside that I hadn’t realised, this is effectively where the First World War began on 28 July 1914 when the Austro-Hungarians attacked Serbia at this point.

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  • Belgrade Trip – Stefan Lazarevic the Despot Statue

    Belgrade Trip – Stefan Lazarevic the Despot Statue

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    Many things in this world puzzle me, and one of these conundrums is why a man known as a despot is revered within the Serbian Orthodox Church and has a rather nice little statue of him within Belgrade Fortress. This mystery was solved when I discovered that in many parts of the Balkans, the word ‘despot’ used to be bestowed on the sons of reigning emperors. The word meaning has changed somewhat since the eighteenth century, but this has also happened with the words ‘dictator’ and ‘tyrant’ which now have negative connotations.

    Back to Stefan (1377-1427), who we (well, I) now discover is something of a hero to many Serbians. To them, he used the periods of peace to help build Belgrade up militarily, economically, politically and socially, so he’s seen as something of a reformer. He was also something of a supporter of the arts and a writer himself, he sounds quite the modern man. Interestingly, on the Serbian Wikipedia, he’s known as Stefan the Despot, but on the English version he’s known as Stefan the Tall. I can see why I might have got the wrong first impression here.

    Anyway, if either of my two loyal blog readers are interested, there’s lots more about him on Wikipedia.

  • Belgrade Trip – Pobednik (Victor Monument)

    Belgrade Trip – Pobednik (Victor Monument)

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    Located within the Belgrade Fortress, this is the not inconsiderable Victor monument which stands where the Rivers Danube and Sava meet. Incidentally, I thought that the statue leaning was more evidence simply of my photographic prowess, but it is genuinely leaning which is sub-optimal for the city engineers. Like many things in the city, there were lots of arguments about this monument and where it was going to go. Designed by Ivan Meštrović, it’s not of any one particular person, it instead represents some sort of mythical being who has won the war and is now leading the city into peace. The monument wasn’t meant to be placed here (it was instead meant to be at Terazije which is in the city centre), but there were arguments that the lack of clothing meant it wasn’t suitable in case ladies looked at it, so it’s been moved out here.

    As a quick timeline, the idea for such a moment came in 1913 following the Serbian victory in the First Balkan War when the Ottomans were defeated. The Hercules type statue was designed, but then World War One broke out and that caused somewhat of a delay, even when the conflict was over. Eventually, the monument was delivered to the city in 1923 and it was then put in a shed for four years whilst the authorities worked out where to put it. Bored of argument, a final decision was made in 1927 and this is where the monument was plonked down.

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    There he is, defending Belgrade. The monument is cracked and the whole lot has had to be repaired several times to stop it falling down, but it looks quite majestic today.

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    And that’s the view that he’s looking out onto. Some have suggested he isn’t guarding the city, but simply after all of the arguments the authorities wanted it looking away from the city centre so they didn’t have to look at him. Either which way, it’s quite an impressive monument.

  • Belgrade Trip – Belgrade Fortress (Zindan Gate)

    Belgrade Trip – Belgrade Fortress (Zindan Gate)

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    Once again, I won’t be winning any awards for photography with the blurry photos, but it was raining for the entire time that I was at the Belgrade Fortress which has led to some (well, quite a lot) sub-optimal imagery. Belgrade Fortress has one of the most challenging histories to unpick given how many times it has been raided, besieged, stormed, attacked and so on, but this is the Zindan Gate or the ‘dungeon gate’.

    The gate was originally built by the Hungarians between 1440 and 1456 and was the first part of the fortress to be constructed with cannons in mind. It worked for a while, but then the Ottomans took the fortress in 1521, but they didn’t do much more with the gate because the frontline had moved on from Belgrade and they didn’t need to defend it. The Austrians decided to get a bit aggressive for a while, indeed hundreds of years, and it bounced between their occupation and the Ottomans who would take it back.

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    The rear of the gate. Reminding me of the rather aspirational modernisation of Carcassonne Castle, the current design of the gate is modern and dates back to the 1938 restoration which gave it an appearance which it had never had. It’s possible to walk all around the gate and it has a more elevated position than might be evident from these photos.

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    Views from the top of the gate over the River Danube. There’s a wooden bridge now in front of the gate, this is recent, but there was once a drawbridge designed to keep the ruffians out. Today, it’s one of the main entrances into the Belgrade Fortress, a large complex which is free of charge to enter and there are plenty of interpretation boards to help explain the history of the site.

  • Belgrade Trip – Bora Todorović Mural

    Belgrade Trip – Bora Todorović Mural

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    I’m not going to pretend that I knew that Bora Todorović was a famous Serbian actor, but there’s a Wikipedia page which gives more information about his life. I just liked the mural, the quality is really eye-catching and it’s pleasing that no-one has vandalised it, especially given that there was lots of graffiti elsewhere down the street. It was painted by the Grobarski treš romanticism group and I’ve seen more of what I assume are their artworks dotted around Belgrade. All very lovely.

  • Belgrade Trip – Other Highlights at Belgrade Zoo

    Belgrade Trip – Other Highlights at Belgrade Zoo

    I’ve wittered on already about the alligator, the snakes , the hippos and the lack of space at Belgrade Zoo, but it was an interesting place and only cost around £5 to get in. The ticket desk accepts cards, but a school group had decided to wait just in front of the ticket desk, which meant it was quite a battle to actually get to the kiosk and by that point the staff member had given up selling tickets as there was a school group cluttering up the area. After solving that little conundrum, mainly by standing there looking confused, I was handed a receipt and I was good to go.

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    I wasn’t entirely convinced that the single wire fence between me and that tiger was absolutely adequate to protect me. There was also ample opportunity for kids to shove their hands through, but what could possibly go wrong there?

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    Perhaps looking just a bit bored?

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    It was hard to identify which way up this orangutan was meant to go….

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    The wolf spent a lot of time prowling around following the same route, although I’m not sure what other options he had.

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    I think this was the largest enclosure in the zoo. It’s not exactly the sweeping plains of Africa.

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    A big bird, which I think is a condor.

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    Aaahhhhh…..

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    Majestic.

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    Some wet camels.

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    Very cute, I think it’s a wallaby.

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    A happy little soul.

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    The zebra looked quite perky.

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    As did the penguin.

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    Wherever zookeepers put a box, the cats will sit in it. Or they might have just been trying to keep dry under the tree.

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    It’d make a cute pet (and I think it liked me), but I suspect it might be difficult to manage on flights. The zoo gave the fun fact that cheetahs are the only ones of the big cats that can’t fully retract their claws.

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    I liked watching the flamingos go sauntering by…..

    And that was that, a perfectly entertaining way to spend 90 minutes or so. It was quiet, which wasn’t a surprise give the kids are at school, it was raining and it was a weekday in September.

  • Belgrade Trip – Belgrade Zoo, Visitor Behaviour and is There Sufficient Space?

    Belgrade Trip – Belgrade Zoo, Visitor Behaviour and is There Sufficient Space?

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    Zoos have a problem, they can do great good in education, in breeding programmes and conservation efforts. But, they also have to ensure the well-being of the animals they are caring for, and there were some evident problems here. I remember going to a couple of zoos in China and was genuinely shocked by how visitors were feeding the animals any old rubbish they could find out of their bags, with no-one seeming to care. I particularly remember one bear begging for food, it all felt sub-optimal. Anyway, back to Belgrade and these goats (or whatever they are) were minding their own business when a visitor broke off a piece of branch from the hedge and starting feeding the animals. A zookeeper walked by and didn’t say anything, but I suspect this is common as there are signs not to touch the hedge and not to feed the animals.

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    This lion had it tough too. A series of visitors were banging to get her attention and then taking photos with their flash on. Again, there are signs saying no photos using flash, but they’re ignored. I visited on a rainy weekday in September, I can imagine that some animals must be suffering somewhat if this is repeated multiple times per day.

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    I was also wondering whether some of these animals had enough space. This was the size of the hippo enclosure, it doesn’t feel ideal for two hippos.

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    And the parrots didn’t seem overwhelmed with space either. In fairness to the zoo, TripAdvisor marks the zoo as “meets animal welfare guidelines” but the standards for this seem very low.

    The zoo was first built in 1936 and there have been numerous efforts recently to progress a project to build a larger zoo on a new site in the city. I suspect they really need the space, they’ve welcoming over 400,000 visitors a year to this site and it’s really not very large. The zoo is getting a lot of negative reviews about their facilities, it seems inevitable that a new zoo will be opened at some stage, no doubt as soon as funding is sorted out.