Walking. Gossip. Travel.

Tag: Athens

Athens – Kyklamino Restaurant

The first evening’s meal and we thought we’d go for something local. After much faffing about on my part checking Google reviews, we settled on this one. There was external seating available, but I’m not one for sitting next to smokers whilst trying to eat a tomato or some other decadent treat.

The menu which fitted into the style of the restaurant which was functional, welcoming and not overly showy. I also liked that they noted which items on the menu were frozen, which is something that perhaps more restaurants should do. The food felt traditional and authentic, with the restaurant feeling peaceful despite it being in a relatively busy area of the city.

The beer is the Alfa Beer from the Athenian Brewery, it’s light and smooth albeit perhaps just a little dull.

Free bread was brought out before the meal.

They also came over with some free olives, which looked a little sparse given the plate size, but any number of free olives is a bonus. Apparently the olives and the olive oil come from the owner’s own farm.

I will admit to Greek salad being one of my favourite meals and it’s served as a generous portion here with a slab of feta cheese.

The meatballs that we got to share and some lumpy thing on the left Richard got as his main course, but he enjoyed it so that’s all to the good.

The spicy sausages served with rice, with the meat being tender and full of flavour. I wouldn’t necessarily say that the food was the best presented that I’ve seen, but I’m far more engaged with quality over looks.

There was also a free dessert provided to round the meal off. There was a set meal which represented good value for money, although it didn’t quite match what we wanted, so we ordered off the main menu instead. The positive on-line reviews seemed justified and the restaurant felt like a family affair, with the service being informal and laid-back. Despite its location relatively near to the Agora and Hadrian’s Library, it didn’t feel touristy and it was steadily busy throughout the evening. They were in no rush to kick us out at the end of the evening and the payment process was efficient, so all rather lovely.

March 3, 2025
Athens – Novotel Athenes

A sleepy bear at the Novotel Athens where I spent three days and I will say in advance that this hotel surprised and delighted me. I was very pleased to discover on arrival that they had upgraded me to a room on the top floor with a balcony and a free mini-bar of soft drinks which would be refilled daily, which is hardly bad when paying under £50 a night. Richard checked in later and they had shoved him on a lower floor and not given him a balcony, but he did have a view of the Acropolis if he looked carefully in the right direction. They gave him two macarons (one of which I had) and some wine to distract him from noticing how small his room was, but I didn’t say anything.

I liked that the receptionist pro-actively told us of the potential problems the next day and it was also signed around the hotel, but more of that later.

The room and it also had a large bathroom that had a bath and shower. I’m not a design expert, but the light colours were cooling and the carpet was clean and seemed a sensible colour to me. That’s it, that’s my design opinion.

The balcony. As one of those people who likes city noise, I rather liked keeping this door open at night. I didn’t have any noise issues internally or externally, indeed, it wasn’t entirely clear how many other guests were actually staying here. There was air conditioning, but I didn’t much need it on which was handy as opening the balcony door turned it off.

The receptionist said that they refilled this daily, although the cleaning staff forgot on the second day, but I won’t hold that against them. They were probably shell-shocked when they entered Richard’s room early without knocking, although he quite rightly went to reception to complain about that situation. There’s also a kettle for those wanting hot drinks.

The view from the balcony and I will say that it’s not the best location within Athens as it’s not the most salubrious of areas and it’s about a twenty-five minute walk to the Acropolis area. The hotel was built in 1988 and received a large renovation in 2007 which has given it more of a modern feel. There are some design quirks, there are two sets of double automatic doors which the hotel doesn’t use, but which guests keep trying to use as they don’t sign they’re out of use. The layout of reception, the restaurant and breakfast room isn’t in keeping with how the designs are arranged now, but everything was easy to find.

I did also have a view of the Acropolis (it is there if my two loyal blog readers look carefully), although I accept Richard’s was clearer than mine. There’s a swimming pool on top of the hotel, although I didn’t go and investigate it, nor did I burden myself with visiting the gym.

The welcome drink and I went for a Paulaner Weissbier which I’ve never had before, it was rather good, smooth with banana notes whilst being light and fluffy. Richard had a red wine which he hated. Bonus points to the hotel bar for the chilled glass and also the free nuts.

There is an underground car park over two levels and it’s free of charge, which is unusual. I won’t go into too much detail of the little crisis that Richard had when trying to drive out of the car park up the ramp, but I was very brave in very challenging circumstances where I thought we’d be there all day. All told, I thought that this was one of the best Accor hotels that I’ve stayed in. The staff were friendly, the hotel was spotlessly clean, the room exceeded my expectations and the service was on point. All rather lovely and a credit to the Accor chain.

March 3, 2025
Athens – Evzones Protecting the Presidential Palace

Two of the Presidential Guard protecting the Presidential Palace in Athens. Known as Evzones, they’re ceremonial guards and they also protect the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier.

The uniform is distinctive and comprises of the Fustanella (the pleated white kilt-like garment), the Tsarouchia (the red leather shoes with large black pompons) and the Pharion (the red felt cap). They also have a semi-automatic rifle, although there are armed guards nearby to them who are protecting them as they spend quite some time just standing still and not being allowed to move. They take this quite literally, there have been instances where a protester has thrown a firebomb and their sentry hut burned with the nearby Evzone not moving until told to and also a case where police were using tear gas and the soldier was stuck there next to it. All very brave.

March 3, 2025
Athens – ibis Styles Athens Routes (Visit 1)

The outside of the Ibis Styles in Athens where I was staying for one night, although I stayed there again for my last night in Athens. The staff member at reception was exceptionally friendly, explaining about the hotel and offering a positive first impression. It’s relatively centrally located and not far to walk for the Acropolis and other city centre delights.

The room which was an upgrade to the one that I booked. Spacious, cool, clean and with a desk.

It also had the benefit of having a balcony which brought about a rather pleasant breeze and I’m also one of those people who likes road noise.

The welcome drink and I was offered a choice of three beers, although they’re effectively all lagers. I went for the Mamos from the Athenian Brewery, a generic but not unpleasant clean and light beer. I also like the free snacks that are provided with drinks in most locations in Athens, this is one of the little policies that I wish was followed in the UK.

The on-line reviews are very positive and not many customers seem annoyed with them. The area is agreeable and doesn’t feel like you need a stab jacket, with the design feeling modern and on-trend. Their restaurant isn’t open at the moment other than for breakfast, although the bar is trading as usual. I didn’t have breakfast, as unfortunately the days of free breakfasts at Ibis Styles have long gone and the cost of over £12 seemed a bit high. I enjoyed the stay so much I booked to return for my final night, although matters weren’t quite as decadent on that one. But more about that another time…..

March 2, 2025
Athens – Hadrian’s Arch

I like an old gateway and this arch dates to 131AD or 132AD, so it’s done well not to fall down in the intervening period or to be used to make lime. It’s made of Pentelic marble, which is the same stone that was used to build the Parthenon. It stands 18 metres tall and it apparently, so the signage says, is a blend of Greek and Roman architectural styles. There are inscriptions which mark something of a divide between the classical Greek City founded by Theseus and the newer Roman area influenced by Hadrian. It’s not known whether it’s meant to be a rigid boundary or a symbol of the integration of Greek and Roman cultures under Hadrian’s rule. It was likely funded by the Athenians to thank Emperor Hadrian for his benefactions to the city and he’s a very lucky man to have a wall in northern England and a gate in Athens after him.

The side of the arch, the origins of which are inevitably a little lost to history and it’s not known who the architect was of the whole arrangement. The Wall of Haseki was built in 1778 when Athens was run by Hadji Ali Haseki and this was a wall around the city which incorporated Hadrian’s Arch. The wall was reduced to ruins during the 1826 Ottoman Siege of Athens and was promptly demolished, although the historic arch was kept.

It’s located next to a busy road and that’s inevitably having something of an impact on it and its colour is a little murky in places. In November 1935 it was reported that:

“Extraordinary tumultuous scenes broke out as King George of the Hellenes, to-day, again set foot in his capital, after his long exile. Wearing evening dress, and with a monocle in his right eye, the King, his face twitching with restrained emotion, had listened at Hadrian’s Arch, on the boundary of Athens, to an address of welcome by the Mayor of Athens. He then received the keys of the city and started to walk under the arch into the capital. Immediately there was a forward rush by the crowd, who seized the King and bore him shoulder high, cheering frantically and shouting “Long live the King.”

The cavalry were forced to clear the King’s route with drawn sabres. One man received a wound on the head from which blood streamed, and others were also hurt. Rescued from the ebullient loyalty of the crowd, the King regained his car and continued the drive to the cathedral. Strict precautions against an attack on the returning monarch had been taken at all stages in the route of the Royal drive. Hadrian’s Arch was especially strongly guarded, in view of the long wait while the Mayor of Athens and the provincial Mayors welcomed the King.

Here, a guard of troops was drawn up and many spectators were stopped and searched for arms. Even girls in national costume were not spared. In his message to the Greek people on the occasion of his return, King George expresses deep emotion and infinite gratitude. He says he is ready to devote all his strength, his experience, and his life to the material and moral betterment of the whole people without exception. He promises absolute equality and justice for all.”

There had been an 11 year period with no Monarch, with King George II having served just 1 year and 160 days in his role, before he was reinstated in 1935. He held the role until 1 April 1947, although he was in exile between 1941 and 1946 due to the Second World War. But, it shows the importance of Hadrian’s Arch in the national pride of the country.

March 2, 2025
Wizz Air (Budapest to Athens)

Getting from my hotel in Budapest required a 45 minute walk from my hotel at 04:00 in the morning and then a 40 minute journey on a bus to the airport. Due to my cutting the walk down to under 30 minutes, the immediate presence of the airport bus at its stop and the aforementioned vehicle making up time en route, I arrived at the airport around three hours before my flight which was much better going that I had expected. Indeed I was so early that my flight to Athens wasn’t on the screen…. Given the efficient nature of security I was able to have two hours in the lounge, but more of that in another post.

There’s the 08:20 flight visible as I was going to Athens for a five day trip. Budapest is the home of Wizz Air and it’s been a few years since I went to the Hungarian capital. But that will have to come in another riveting episode of this blog as Richard is expecting a swift write-up of Athens and I can’t be dawdling writing about Budapest.

I really liked Budapest Ferenc Liszt Airport, or as much as you can realistically like an airport. There was plenty of seating, plenty of power points, plenty of space and clear signage. It’s a shame that the designers of Berlin Brandenburg hadn’t had a little day trip out here, although I won’t start going on about that again. Well, other than that mention.

The boarding started forty minutes before the flight and the division between priority and non-priority is clear.

Yet again, the boarding process was efficient. I joined the boarding queue a little earlier than normal as I was in a window seat and I didn’t want to make people move after they’d just sat down. There was a Wizz Air staff member checking a lot of customer bags for size, although mine wasn’t checked. There was then a bus transfer to the aircraft and the process did annoy a few customers as they kept packing more passengers on. The bored and worn out looking driver shouted “I know there’s space, this seats 100”, although I think they’ve done the sizing in the same way that they do in lifts. The amount of times I’ve seen a small lift and it says that the maximum number of people is 6, but they must be rather thin shall we say. Anyway, I digress, the aircraft is HA-LZI, an A321 which was brought into use in late 2021 and I don’t think I’ve been on it before.

And safely landing in Athens. I had been randomly assigned a window seat and there was also no-one next to me, so it felt as if there was plenty of room and the aircraft was likely only 70% full. The crew were friendly and polite throughout, with the entire flight feeling calm. I bought the ticket as part of the Wizz Air All You Can Fly subscription service, so it came in at just under £9. The flight arrived 11 minutes early and as this was a Schengen to Schengen flight I didn’t have much of a wait at the airport. That meant I was safely in Athens, with Richard arriving the following day on his executive aircraft. Once again, I was suitably impressed by Wizz Air, their pricing and general efficiency.

March 2, 2025
Athens – National Archaeological Museum (Folding Mirrors)

Two more items from the National Archaeological Museum in Athens and I wouldn’t have actually guessed what these were if it wasn’t for the descriptions next to them.

So, this item is a folding mirror, and it shows the female Goddess Nike, which represents victory, killing a bull. Not the most pleasant item perhaps, but it has some age, it dates to around 290BC to 300BC.

And another folding mirror which was found in Demetrias, which is now in Greece, and shows a female with an earring. It dates back to the third century BC and was likely owned by a wealthy individual.

March 27, 2019
Athens – National Archaeological Museum (Doves)

I thought initially that these were pigeons, which struck me as a strange thing to make a figurine of. They’ve actually doves, not that there’s much difference between them and pigeons, and they were found in the sanctuary of Aphrodite at Daphni and they date to the fourth century BC.

As another of my little asides, near to where these were found, and also in Daphni, is a monastery on the outskirts of Athens which was built on the former site of the sanctuary of Apollo. Some of the remains were taken by Lord Elgin and sold to the British Museum where they are still located today. However, the British Museum doesn’t display them, so it’s questionable to me why they’re holding them, surely a provincial museum somewhere would be better to have them where they could be seen. Having said that, the British Museum apparently don’t display 99% of their items, so this isn’t an unusual situation and perhaps it really is the case that no museum wants them on a long-term loan.

March 27, 2019
Athens – National Archaeological Museum (Hippo)

I might well be posting photos of random artefacts from the National Archaeological Museum in Athens for many more days yet, there was much to see.

Anyway, this is a hippo dating back to 3,000BC, made from granite and found in a temple at Abydos in Egypt. It’s apparently a particularly rare find given the large size of the hippo. I imagine that creating this would have taken many hours of chipping away at granite, but it still seems to be in reasonable condition even given its great age.

March 27, 2019
Athens – National Archaeological Museum (Jockey of Artemision)

This large sculpture, located in the National Archaeological Museum, of a horse and young jockey is made from bronze and dates to around 140BC. Strangely, the statue likely only survived as it was on board a ship that went aground off Cape Artemision in Greece, otherwise it might have been melted down. It’s not known who the creator was, but it’s thought it might have been dedicated to the Gods as thanks for the horse winning a race.

Known as the Jockey of Artemision, the sculpture is carefully crafted and has plenty of detail, particularly on the faces of the jockey. The sculpture wasn’t found in one piece and was instead brought up from the sea floor over a period of 11 years. Only in 1972, nearly fifty years after the sculpture was initially discovered, were the pieces all put back together again.

March 26, 2019