Walking. Gossip. Travel.

Category: Scotland

Edinburgh – Ibis Edinburgh Centre South Bridge Royal Mile

Accor have several hotels in Edinburgh, hence the rather long name to identify this from other nearby locations. It’s just a short walk from the central railway station and also from the heart of Edinburgh action. The city isn’t exactly quiet at the moment, but there certainly aren’t anywhere near the number of leisure visitors that would usually be expected.

I haven’t seen a Platinum Accor envelope like this before and it’s a handy little concept, place for the welcome drink and for the room key. And I should add that I very much liked when I e-mailed this hotel about an early check-in that they responded quickly and with a really helpful answer. The staff member at check-in was helpful, engaging and welcoming, really all very personable. The lobby felt an inviting place to visit as well, so my first impressions were all positive.

As another of my random asides, this leads me to start being annoyed at some of the London Accor hotels who are making no effort to do anything and in some cases aren’t even responding to e-mails. The quality of Ibis hotels in the UK is all over the place, not least because of all of the different operators. At least in Poland there is just one operator of Ibis hotels, Orbis, meaning that the quality is consistent. Anyway, I digress, but I’d mention that this hotel isn’t taking any short cuts (or none that I noticed anyway).

This is an enhanced room the staff member mentioned and other than the generic bathroom that Ibis use, it doesn’t feel like the usual Ibis room layout. I thought that it was all very light and modern, with the designers making use of the architecture of the historic building that the hotel is located in. I’m not a big advocate for losing large desks in hotel rooms, as I find these useful, but I accept that it would have looked rather out of place in this room and I assume that the hotel usually gets a lot of leisure guests. For my needs, the table and chair that they had were entirely sufficient. The room was spotlessly clean, fully stocked and the temperature was easy to control with the air conditioning. The windows were entirely sealed for guests (although the hotel can open them), which is a slight shame as I’m one of those strange guests who likes to hear street noise and traffic in the background.

The view was really lovely, that’s Arthur’s Seat and I very much enjoyed sitting there looking at that late in the evening (I had forgotten it gets dark in Scotland much later than down south…..) As another aside, shortly after check-in, a staff member offered a dressing gown, which isn’t something that I want, but I really can’t recall any other Ibis trying to offer me this, so I was suitably impressed.

And full marks for actually producing this, which is information about the hotel and something that many locations seem to entirely neglect. I’m never sure how hotels expect guests to actually know what is available as it often seems to be something of a secret, but everything was clearly laid out here. It’s a different way of doing things in these Covid times, but nice to see that the hotel has actually thought about it.

The menu for the hotel’s bar and restaurant is easy to find and is clearly displayed. The hotel is located across several floors and because of the nature of the building’s architecture that means the reception desk is on the fourth floor (although that’s also at street level) and the bar is on the third floor. My room was on the top floor, which was the ninth.

The welcome drink and I chose Innis and Gunn as that’s a nod towards localism. OK, in an ideal world there would have been some decadent craft beer, but they did offer me any beer that I wanted and so there were no limits placed on me. I visited before going back out into the city and I was the only one in the bar, but it was still welcoming and laid-back, a nicely set-out environment. The staff here were again friendly, especially when I realised that I had forgotten my room number (it was written on the drinks voucher which I handed over, forgetting I had meant to take a note of it before doing that) and the poor guy had to open the till to remind me. I expect they’re usually used to more competent guests.

All told, this was one of the best run Ibis hotels that I can remember staying in. Punching above its Ibis weight a little, the welcome was genuine, the rooms clean and the quality of the experience high. I’d be very pleased to come here again and I liked the farewell where the staff member seemed genuinely interested if I had enjoyed my stay. Really all very well managed and I appreciate their help with the early check-in after my arrival into the city on the sleeper train.

July 16, 2021
Edinburgh – Bow Bar

It’s been a little difficult visiting the local pubs in the Good Beer Guide, as many of them have been closed or are operating on heavily reduced hours. It transpired that Bow Bar has only just reopened as well, due to a staff member having Covid-19 last month, which must have been a blow after they were finally allowed to open. However, they certainly seem to have been honest and open about the situation, and everything is back to normal now for this bar.

There was a very friendly welcome from the staff member at the door, she was conversational and welcoming. I did wonder whether this small bar might be a little cliquey, but it absolutely wasn’t, there was a nice relaxed atmosphere inside.

There’s an interesting decor in the bar. I would normally meander around and take a couple more photos, but under the current situation, that wouldn’t be sensible.

I don’t drink whisky as it’s too, er, powerful in flavour, for me. I like beers that have been in aged whisky casks, but the whisky itself does nothing for me. There were some tempting options here in the whisky month that the pub was running, with I note numerous flavours similar to those that can be found in beers. There were some very decadent options as well, so I can imagine Richard might well have been tempted by them (especially the expensive ones). It’s great to see such a wide selection available for whisky drinkers though, a few customers were drinking through some of the options on this list.

There is a beer board, but it’s at the other end of the bar. The enthusiastic staff member checked whether I was a whisky or beer drinker, before carefully explaining all of the different beer options. I have a problem that I can’t remember a list of options, I just stop the staff member when they tell me a beer that sounds interesting. I liked the enthusiasm of the staff member as well, she must have to repeat the beer list a lot, but she remained helpful and willing, seemingly to genuinely want people to get a drink they’d like. Never scripted and never routine, I like it, although I did wonder whether it’d be easier to just have a print out of the beers they had. But, it was a good way to allow the staff member to engage, so all was well.

My new drinking partner who spent the entire time ignoring me and looking the other way. I have some friends like this to be fair and it’s very annoying when I want to tell them about craft beer. The bar has put these giant teddies on some seats to aid social distancing, a really nice idea. Non confrontational and adding to the atmosphere, rather lovely. I did name the teddy, but I won’t put the name here….

The beer that I chose was the Mochaccino Stout from Pilot, which is a micro-brewery from Leith, in Edinburgh. It had a rich flavour and had a smooth chocolate and coffee edge to it, although the aftertaste seemed to dissipate a little quickly. A really pleasant beer though and for some reason, it seemed appropriate for the bar that I was drinking it in.

Looking at the reviews, the bar certainly seem to be doing something right as they’re nearly all very favourable. There are a few really idiotic comments levelled at the bar and they do sometimes reply in quite a punchy manner. I like that, genuine complaints treated with respect, but idiocy dealt with accordingly. Like the person who felt appropriate to leave 1/5 as they wouldn’t let his 17 year old daughter in, even though that is what the bar’s licence states.

And someone who complained that they didn’t serve Guinness. I love the bar’s answer:

“I see you have edited your review to now complain that we don’t serve Guinness. If we wanted to serve something that tasted like Guinness, we would serve Guinness. However, we support smaller independent breweries, and we have an alternative stout for the dark beer drinkers. If you don’t like it, that’s not our fault, and I don’t see how you can get so upset over it. It’s just beer at the end of the day.”

Someone also complained that they paid £5 for a pint. The bar’s response was moderate, adding “PS, we are not Wetherspoons” at the end. Fair play, there’s a place for JD Wetherspoon as far as I’m concerned, but there’s even more of a place for brilliant little independent bars like this who focus on great customer service and beer from small, local breweries.

I really liked this bar, primarily because the service was personable, pro-active and simply welcoming. This is certainly one of my best pub experiences of the year so far that isn’t in a chain (well, in a Brewdog) and it absolutely deserves to be in the Good Beer Guide. It’s in a touristy area of Edinburgh, so I imagine they get a real mix of locals and visitors from further afield, but the welcome seemed authentic to all. All very lovely.

July 2, 2021
Edinburgh – Brewdog Edinburgh Lothian Road

Given that I’m working my way through all the Brewdogs in the UK, it’s probably about time that I started visiting some of their Scottish outlets, given that’s the country that they come from. They have two outlets in the centre of Edinburgh, but I started with this one as it’s the only one of the two which offers unlimited chicken wings on a Wednesday. The other Brewdog is in Cowgate and has a menu similar to the one that we had in Clapham a couple of weeks ago, offering food such as pizzas and cheese boards (Richard would be pleased).

I was seated near to the bar, in what I considered to be a rather good location since I could see what was going on. The welcome seemed genuinely friendly and the staff members were always polite, but they weren’t pro-active in talking about the beers in a way that some other Brewdog bars have been. But Brewdog set themselves a high bar in terms of their engagement, so there was nothing wrong here, just other venues in the chain have their staff talk about the beer in quite a natural way even when customers have already ordered it via the app.

This is the rear of the bar, which they’d closed off when I visited as they didn’t have sufficient customers to need it. This is a large Brewdog outlet and they also have a fair amount of space outside, so finding a seat is usually not a problem most of the time.

The beer fridges.

Indeed I did….. Actually, this reminds me that I booked 16:45 because 17:00 was unavailable. I’m not sure I understand Brewdog’s logic here, since they had no more customers in at 17:00 than they did at 16:45, as can also be noted from the closed off rear area.

I went for two drinks, just getting thirds of each as usual. This is the One Day Maybe Never from Verdant Brewing, which was a little disappointing as there was nothing particularly exciting about this beer in terms of flavours or the depth of taste. The brewery is from Cornwall and I’ve had a few of their beers before, including the Even Sharks Need Water, Bloom and Maybe One More PSI, but this was the blandest that I’ve had from them in terms of the flavour.

I then followed this up with Cosmic Raspberry from Overworks, which is Brewdog’s own brewery. This beer didn’t hugely excite me either, it was just tart, without much smoothness to it. The taste of raspberry wasn’t unpleasant, but I had expected something a little more sophisticated.

I’m not helped here either by having nearly run out of different Brewdog beers to try, I might have to put a gap in between my next visit so that they can rotate the guest beers that they have to choose from. They do change their guests relatively frequently, but the guest beer menu in Edinburgh was similar to what they had in their London bars.

I went for the unlimited chicken wings again, since I haven’t had them for two weeks. Served at the usual very hot temperature where I have to let them sit for a few minutes, they were different in shape to other Brewdog outlets, which slightly surprised me as I wasn’t sure that there were many different options in this regard. I didn’t let it bother me….

And more…. And quite a few more that I didn’t take photos of. The service was always efficient and I was never left waiting for long, so the whole bar felt well managed. it was well staffed, indeed to the point that I wondered if they’d been expecting more guests.

Anyway, obviously there’s a limit to how unique Brewdog bars are when comparing them to each other, but this was a perfectly pleasant experience. I was never rushed and I liked the engagement from staff, with complete compliance with the current Covid rules. It wasn’t overly busy, although they were getting a steady flow of customers, and the bar is genuinely pretty well reviewed. So, all fine for me and no issues.

July 1, 2021
Edinburgh – Conan Doyle Pub

The Good Beer Guide hasn’t been able to achieve much for me today, as every pub in it that I tried to visit was shut, including those which were meant to be open. I’m moderately confused by this, as Edinburgh is busy and other pubs seem to be doing well. Anyway, that meant an opportunity to just try some other pubs and see what I could find. The Conan Doyle takes its name as it’s near the birthplace of Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, born at Picardy Place on 22 May 1859. For reasons unknown (or at least, unknown to me), the home of his birth was demolished in the early 1970s.

The pub is Nicholson’s, so arguably I could have just stayed in London as they have no shortage of venues there. The set-up is the same, although I’ve had to download a different check-in app, as the one I’ve been using is created by NHS England. There was a staff member at the entrance to guide me through the process, all efficiently managed. I didn’t have to fight to use the app here, they didn’t seem to object to me using technology rather ordering through them.

There’s apparently usually a wide selection of real ales, but at the moment it’s limited to just Nicholson’s Pale Ale or Timothy Taylor’s Landlord. I got my 25p off half a pint, making the price £2.20, which isn’t unreasonable given the location. The beer was all that a pint of Landlord could be, it was entirely adequate and well kept, but not really anything more. The surroundings were relaxed and the pub was relatively busy, although it was never full when I was there. Unlike the Nicholson’s pubs that I’ve been visiting in London over the last couple of weeks, this one seemed to be serving a fair amount of food.

I did look at the menu on-line (although I was saving myself for Brewdog food) and thought frickles were some local speciality. They’re actually stocked throughout the Nicholson’s chain and I’ve just never noticed, but they’re beer battered gherkins and that is something I’d very much like. I might e-mail Greggs, they need to stock decadent products like this. There is though some localisation, as the pub stocks haggis, neeps and tatties, as well as the dishes of Stovies and Balmoral Chicken. They also have the dessert of Cranachan, which I’d never heard of until Andrew ordered it when we were in the Isle of Skye a few years ago. As an aside, one customer complained that they weren’t happy with their small portion size of haggis (I would have been, I don’t like haggis) and the pub replied in a review they would have been give more free if they had asked. Handy tip for anyone visiting in the future…..

As a pub, this was all fine, as it was clean and comfortable. Nothing exceptional, but the environment was welcoming and there were a few customers sitting on their own, usually a sign of an accepting environment. I had a little look through their reviews on-line, which are broadly positive. I quite liked the one from last year:

“Obviously you get the odd ignoring while waiting at a bar for service wherever you are, but this was just blatant. I must assume it was because we were English, as the bar was full of Scottish indy stuff. Bit ironic as I fully support the Scottish Nationalists”.

I’m a bit bemused by that one, as I’m not sure that staff in a pub in central Edinburgh are going to turn against anyone who sounds a bit English. I also didn’t see all the Scottish independence stuff that is mentioned, just a sign for Scottish malts. The pub didn’t bother replying to that review.

Drifting off the subject somewhat (but I’ve become judgemental reading these reviews), a customer complained that they were given an unsuitable wonky table for two and asked for a larger one which was more convenient for them. The pub reply was “this is standard practice as you would know, having visited so many restaurants before”. I’m not sure it is, I’ve seen very many venues sacrifice larger tables to please their customers, thereby avoiding the negative review that this pub ended up with. The pub has a few negative reviews similar to this one, but there we go….

I did though like the pub’s reply to a customer who complained that he was patient whilst waiting for his beer, but was then charged over £5 for it. The reply was “unfortunately in Scotland this doesn’t entitle anyone to a change in the price. You have yourself a wonderful day!” and that seemed a most suitable response.

I was also amused by an angry Canadian who was furious he had to go to the bar in the pub to order and then carry the drinks back himself to the table. I’m not entirely sure that he got the spirit of pub culture in the UK. Anyway, I’ve now got entirely distracted from my initial aim of writing a few comments about the pub. All was fine, but nothing exceptional, but it’s nice for Sherlock Holmes fans to visit.

June 30, 2021
London Euston to Edinburgh Waverley – Caledonian Sleeper

I needed to get to Edinburgh this week and I looked at numerous different options. Annoyingly, it was just as cheap to fly, but it’s not very environmental to fly domestically and so I decided against that given there were alternatives. There were some cheap fares to get between the two cities, but then I remembered the sleeper service which operates from London Euston.

The concourse of Euston railway station. Fun fact, this dreadful station was actually designed to have no seating to prevent people from loitering. Welcome to the world of British Rail customer service. This decision was later reversed and seating has been installed, but there isn’t much for what is a substantial mainline station. Anyway, I’ve digressed already.

The handy thing I discovered is that the sleeper service can be boarded over an hour before its departure. The platform number was announced, so I thought I might as well board. I’m always early for flights, trains, coaches and indeed everything, so this was all quite handy.

Here we go, departing from platform 15.

The train looked modern and clean. I hadn’t realised that the service didn’t operate for a couple of weeks in June due to a strike over staff pay. I’m not getting involved with commenting on that, but that’s a very disappointing state of affairs that must threaten the viability of a service like this moving forwards.

I must admit that I found all this quite exciting, probably evidence that I need to grow up. A member of staff met me at the end of the platform just to check that I was in the right place and they then directed me towards a steward. He checked my ticket and then guided me towards where I needed to go on the train.

I had just booked a seat rather than a cabin, as I’m not made of money…..

One of the carriages with seats, which in normal times might feel a little packed. There was a policy though of having just one person per row, and no-one directly behind, which made arrangements feel really rather spacious.

I was pleased to get the front seat as that had quite a sturdy little desk arrangement. There was a guide to the service on the table, as well as a little amenity pack.

Some instructions on how to get to sleep. I’m not sure about this avoiding heavy food, avoiding alcohol, avoiding coffee and avoiding phones is useful, I’d rather just stay awake.

There is an eye mask and ear plugs included in the pack. There wasn’t really much noise in the cabin, although a couple of English football fans going to Carlisle were politely told to shut up by the steward. He didn’t actually say that directly, he suggested that they go and sit in the buffet car, but it had the required effect.

There’s a safe above every seat, although they’re not particularly spacious. I just shoved my bag on the floor, it’s currently so heavy that anyone trying to pinch it would just assume I’d padlocked it to the ground. The carriages are professionally fitted out, there’s been some considerable money spent here over the years. The quality of the interior was better than I had expected, so although it’s not Amtrak, it’s really not too bad at all.

A steward (that’s the name they use, not one I’ve decided to describe them by) came by to offer everyone a menu, with the pricing seeming to be quite moderate.

I don’t normally feel the need to take photos of toilets on trains, but on this occasion I thought that I would.

I slept reasonably well and woke up to discover that we were in Carlisle. A few passengers alighted there and I don’t think we picked anyone up. I suspect that I would have been quite uncomfortable if the train had been full with passengers, as there isn’t really enough space to stretch out (not that I ever worked out the reclining function, since I don’t use it). Covid-19 doesn’t have many advantages, but this is one of them.

This is, I believe, the River Sark, which is the border between England and Scotland. I was quite pleased to be able to get this photo as the train does move at quite a speed.

There was a screen in front of me informing me of the train’s progress. Carstairs is a relatively small location, but it’s where they faff about doing something with the train and it heads back out in the other direction. The train operates on the West Coast Mainline, although it can also be diverted to the East Coast Mainline if engineering works require.

As we approached Edinburgh, a plan of the railway station appeared on the screen. I thought that this was really quite useful. I understand that it’s possible to stay on the train for an extra hour or so, to allow for some extra sleep if required, but I had the need to find some snacks at the railway station.

And safely in Edinburgh Waverley, with an engineer jumping out to fix something (or just to have a play on the track for all I know).

That was really quite lovely as an experience. The price wasn’t the cheapest, at just over £60, although it meant that I didn’t have to get any accommodation for the night. As is usual, because I’m never in a rush I was hoping that the train might be 30 minutes late into Edinburgh, as then I’d have got half my money back. Unfortunately not though…..

The service was professional throughout, the stewards were helpful and the train was on time in and out of every stop. I’m sure that the cabin option is much more comfortable (but it’s also much more expensive), but I got sufficient sleep and would use the service again. I just hope they sort out this strike action, as if staff keep going on strike (for whatever reason) then the train is perhaps in danger of being withdrawn forever. As it stands, there are just two sleeper services in the UK, the other one is the Night Riviera which goes down to Cornwall. Anyway, I’m very pleased that I tried the service.

June 30, 2021