Walking. Gossip. Travel.

Category: Norwich

  • Greater Anglia : Norwich to London Liverpool Street

    Greater Anglia : Norwich to London Liverpool Street

    My last train journey was from Chesterfield to York in March 2020 and I didn’t expect it would take until August 2020 for me to make another. Norwich railway station looks different to when I last used it, with the ticket gates now left open and unmanned. There’s now directional signage around the concourse and a couple of the food outlets, West Cornwall Pasty and Starbucks, haven’t re-opened, nor has Marks & Spencer. It felt moderately busy, but nowhere near what I would have usually expected for a Monday morning.

    Waiting at platform 2, the new style train which serves the Norwich to London line.

    There was plenty of space for customers on board, just a handful of passengers in each carriage. The power points and on-board screens worked on the train, although it wasn’t doing a very good job of air conditioning and not for the first time this week I muttered to myself that it was too hot.

    Safely at London Liverpool Street railway station, the train arrived dead on time.

    The barriers were operating as usual at the station, with revenue protection officers and police questioning a couple of people as I walked by. So, although there’s no ticket barrier at Norwich and tickets aren’t checked on board, there are still mechanisms to ensure people have paid their fares. The concourse was relatively quiet and someone asked me how they could get out of the railway station, something I didn’t think was particularly challenging, but there we go. Once outside, it became evident to me just how quiet London currently is….

  • Norwich – Drunken Dash and Daring

    Norwich – Drunken Dash and Daring

    This news story is from 1860, when a robbery took place on White Lion Street in Norwich.

    “William Marsham, on bail, was charged with stealing a coat, the property of Mr. George Womack, clothier, White Lion Street. Mr C. Cooper, who prosecuted, said the intent with which the prisoner took the coat did not seem to be a felonious one, and, therefore, with the Recorder’s permission, he should not offer any evidence. The Recorder, addressing the prisoner, said he entirely believed the statement the prisoner made to the policeman, that he had never known a happy moment since he took this coat, and he entirely believed that the prisoner had no felonious intention. That was evident from his going to the shop and putting the coat on before the eyes of all the shopmen. It was a case of drunken dash and daring, and he hoped the prisoner, having placed himself in such jeopardy by his intemperance would be wiser for the future, and abandon a vice which to young men in his position was often the first step to theft. The prisoner was then discharged”.

    I can’t tell whether it was the father or son George Womack, but the former died in 1860 at the age of 72, whilst the son died in the Thorpe Rail Disaster of 1874, a tragedy where 15 people were killed. William Marsham was lodging at a property in Porter’s Square in Norwich a year later, working as a bricklayer, but I can’t work out where he went after 1861.

    But, I do like the pragmatism of the Norwich courts at the time, as well as the phrase “drunken dash and daring”.

  • Norwich – Brewdog (Wings Wednesday)

    Norwich – Brewdog (Wings Wednesday)

    Back to Brewdog, which I’ve written about before, but some of my favourite pubs are still closed and I think this chain has handled things well in recent months. And I like their craft beer. So, I pre-booked a table in advance and this was acknowledged and confirmed around a day later.

    The bar area with the list of beers on the back bar. I took these photos when leaving, at a time when it was quieter, because otherwise it was relatively busy throughout the evening. When entering the bar, there’s a staff member near to the door and they explain how everything is working in terms of hygiene and safety. Customers need to scan a QR code (I won’t mention that Nathan’s Nokia 8210 doesn’t have this facility, so he had to stand and look confused) and that allowed me to give my contact details to comply with Government rules, and there’s also an ordering facility as well on the app. Customers can decide whether to use the app to order, but table service is still offered.

    Another photo of the front bar area.

    My drink was Layer Cake, a pastry stout with layers of flavour including marshmallow and chocolate. Decadent, rich and very sippable. I was also conveniently seated next to a hand sanitiser, which was quite handy given that the food choice for the evening wasn’t the cleanest to eat.

    And, Wings Wednesday, which is either cauliflower or chicken wings for £10 and they keep on bringing them until you tell them not to bring them. Which seems a very good deal. The wings were excellent, evenly coated with a pleasantly flavoured sauce and they were all cooked well. I like blue cheese, but not always blue cheese dip, but this one complemented the chicken wings nicely, and they also brought me over some hot sauce.

    Service was friendly and engaging throughout, everything was brought over with no real delay and the staff seemed to be in control of the whole process. There is an air of professionalism to Brewdog, so the whole efficiency of the process wasn’t unsurprising.

  • Norwich – Cathedral Gates

    Norwich – Cathedral Gates

    I’m not sure that I can recall a time when the Erpingham and Ethelbert Gates have both been closed in the evening, I wonder whether it’s related to the Nelson statue incident.

  • Norwich – King’s Head

    Norwich – King’s Head

    I should have written about this on my blog before, but the King’s Head in Norwich is one of my favourite pubs and is absolutely worthy of its place in the Good Beer Guide. Friendly, warm, welcoming and always with sufficiently interesting beers for me. They’re more on the real ale end of the spectrum than the craft beer end, but the quality is high and the choice is balanced and well thought out.

    The beer list is reduced given the current situation, but there was a coffee stout and this pleased me greatly. OK, the S&P Beano Coffee Stout might not be world-class, but it’s a solid 4/5 on Untappd for me. As usual, perfectly kept and at the appropriate temperature.

    Not that the pub has much choice in the matter, but it’s sad to see the bar billiards table like that.

    The pub was busier than this for much of our stay, but I took the photo of the back bar when people weren’t in it, that makes things easier. The whole health issue was handled well, table service was offered, beer menus at the table, extra drinks offered pro-actively, payment taken at the table, everything clearly laid out. Marvellous, all very professional.

    The front bar, feeling quite empty and there’s now a one-way system operating throughout.

    And more photos of the front bar. As every, a marvellous pub which is understated, professional and a reliable location for a dark beer (and others for customers who so desire). I was tempted as usual by the pork pies, which are back on the menu, but managed to resist on this occasion. But, their pork pies are a culinary delight, served with mustard and pickle…… Ah, it’s good to be back in pubs….

  • Norwich – Nelson’s Statue

    Norwich – Nelson’s Statue

    The statue of Norfolk’s hero, Nelson, in Norwich Cathedral Upper Close. It was installed here in 1847, sculpted by Thomas Milnes. It was attacked by vandals, twice, over recent days. I have no comment to make on my non-political blog, but I’m conscious that this may be an independent attack without political links, so jumping to conclusions would be unhelpful and wouldn’t be relevant here anyway. Events may mean that view is misguided, but we shall see and perhaps it was intended as an attack on the Church of England, the establishment, British history, society in general or the British Empire. I don’t know and that debate can be had elsewhere.

    The rear of the statue.

    The front of the statue.

    When we were standing taking photos, a police car drove by. I thought they might hang around and see why I standing by the statue, but they must have thought I was trustworthy as they drove off (the lights of the police car are just visible going through the Erpingham Gate in the above photo).

  • Norwich – Pret Chapelfield

    Norwich – Pret Chapelfield

    And another closure, Pret at Chapelfield in Norwich is closing permanently. The Haymarket one is staying open, but I imagine the rents here were just too high at the moment. I can’t help thinking that they never really rewarded their customers, they ignored the loyalty schemes that most of their rivals offered and I did think that was quite brave of them. There was always the danger that they desperately needed customers and that eventuality came to pass, although perhaps that wouldn’t have made much difference in the scale of things. But, a sad loss for Norwich (although maybe some independent operators might disagree), the staff here were always friendly and helpful, with the food being of a decent quality as well.

  • Norwich – Sainsbury Centre for Visual Arts (Pair of Walking Figures by Lynn Chadwick)

    Norwich – Sainsbury Centre for Visual Arts (Pair of Walking Figures by Lynn Chadwick)

    This bronze is by Lynn Chadwick (1914-2003) and is in the sculpture garden of the Sainsbury Centre for Visual Arts. The design was for the Queen’s Silver Jubilee in 1977 and there were six casts made in 1978, of which this is one. Incidentally, if anyone fancies owning this, one came up for auction (number 2 of 6) in 2018 and reached just under £2.6 million against an estimate of £600,000 to £800,000. That seems like a lot of money to me…..

    Anyway, I have no idea where the other five bronzes are (or indeed if this is the one which sold in 2018), probably mostly in private collections somewhere around the world and surfacing only for occasional exhibitions. These ones were meant to be removed from the Sainsbury collection at the end of 2019, so will likely be gone soon as they’re only on loan from the collection of Denise Coates CBE (the controversial business leader who made money from her betting business) and Richard Smith.

    The figures are quite powerful with their different shaped heads and angular designs.

  • Norwich – Sainsbury Centre for Visual Arts (Draped Reclining Woman)

    Norwich – Sainsbury Centre for Visual Arts (Draped Reclining Woman)

    For some time, and inspired by the Rodin Museum in Philadelphia, I became quite engaged with the works of Auguste Rodin. Not just the artworks, but also how French law now allows for twelve casts to be made of original plaster moulds and that means it’s intriguing to see where the various bronzes have ended up.

    There’s a similar theme to the works of Henry Moore (1898-1986) and the bronze known as Draped Reclining Woman was designed in 1958. There’s the original cast, known as 0/6, and then six castings were made of this original work and this was undertaken by Hermann Noack.

    This bronze, now on display in the sculpture park of the Sainsbury Centre for Visual Arts at the UEA, was once located in the garden of Sir Robert Sainsbury (1906-2000). He was the son of the founder of the supermarket chain and he also donated a significant art collection to the gallery.

    Wikipedia, that bastion of truth, tells me where the other bronzes are.

    The Tate Museum (they’ve put it on display at Glyndebourne near Lewes)

    Pinakothek der Moderne (a modern art gallery in Munich, which is a city I haven’t visited)

    The Staatsgalerie (a gallery in Stuttgart, another city I haven’t visited)

    The Norton Simon Museum (this is in Pasadena, a city I’ve visited, but not the museum and they have the 0/6, so the original cast)

    The two others are in private collections (so, could be anywhere)

  • Norwich – Former St. Peter’s Methodist Church

    Norwich – Former St. Peter’s Methodist Church

    This is the former St. Peter’s Methodist Church on Park Lane in Norwich, currently being redeveloped.

    The photo is a little wonky as I had to put my phone over the fence to get an unobstructed view. But, what is visible here is the former frontage of the Wesleyan Methodist Church (see http://www.norfolkchurches.co.uk/norwichparklanemeth/St.Peter’s-Old%20Chapel(1d4).jpg) and this was all bricked over in the 1960s to create a flat frontage.

    This was the frontage and I have to say, the developers have done the building a huge favour in revealing what was once here. The developers of this site are turning the two former church buildings into residential properties, although they’ve run into some difficulties with the council. According to the EDP, Norwich City Council demanded £507,000 as a contribution towards affordable housing and the property developers offered £371,800. Anyway, after lots of negotiations and debate, Norwich City Council accepted £167,108. I mean, what an expert negotiation that was, £200,000 lower than the first offer. Anyway, I won’t get political here.