Category: Great Yarmouth

  • 200 Years Ago in Norwich : Madame Tussaud Visits Great Yarmouth

    200 Years Ago in Norwich : Madame Tussaud Visits Great Yarmouth

    And another in my series of posts from articles and adverts in the Norwich Mercury from 200 years ago this week, this advert was placed in the newspaper in the first week of May 1825.

    “MADAME TUSSAUD, ARTIST,

    Has the honour most respectfully to announce to the Ladies and Gentlemen of Yarmouth and its vicinity, that by the kind liberality of the Worshipful the Mayor, she will have the honour to Exhibit her Collection as above announced, where she hopes to meet with that acknowledgement which Yarmouth is known to afford to Exhibitions of merit.

    The Collection consists of TWO MAGNIFICENT CORONATION GROUPS, one representing the AUGUST CORONATION of his MAJESTY GEORGE IV.; the other the CORONATION of BONAPARTE; the whole got up at an immense expense, and such as have never failed of giving general satisfaction, having been viewed in Liverpool, Manchester, Birmingham, Bristol, and Bath, by 136,000 Persons.

    There will be a PROMENADE every Evening from Seven till Ten, accompanied by a MILITARY BAND.

    ADMITTANCE ONE SHILLING. SUBSCRIBERS’ TICKETS FIVE SHILLINGS EACH. OPEN EVERY DAY From Eleven till Four, and from Six in the EVENING till Ten.”

    Marie Tussaud (1761-1850) has been unable to return to France as a result of the Napoleonic Wars, so she spent most of her time in England. She started a touring exhibition in 1824, which is the one that reached Great Yarmouth, and in 1833 she eventually settled on a permanent location in Baker Street in London. The growth of the galleries meant that new premises were needed in 1884, where Madame Tussauds is still located today. This must have been quite a sight to behold for the lucky denizens of Great Yarmouth.

  • 200 Years Ago in Norwich : A Case of Poisoning in Great Yarmouth

    200 Years Ago in Norwich : A Case of Poisoning in Great Yarmouth

    Part of my occasional series of newspaper articles from the Norwich Mercury from 200 years ago this week.

    The year 1825 saw the Neal family – Mary, and her adult children Susan and William – at the centre of a grave accusation which was the attempted murder of shoemaker William Halls (or Hales) and his family through arsenic poisoning. Arsenic, readily available and difficult to detect in that era, was a feared agent of clandestine violence, and its alleged use in this case invoked particular societal horror. The crime was not only shocking for its malicious intent but also for its familial dimension, with a mother and her children implicated in a conspiracy against their neighbour and employer. The trial was held at the Great Yarmouth Quarter Sessions and presiding over the whole arrangement was Robert Alderson.

    This is quite a long and interesting article from the newspaper, which I’ll quote in full:

    “From its being generally known that the trial of the Neals for poisoning would be the first on Friday morning, the Court was crowded to excess, and the Recorder took his seat. Mary Neal, aged 42, Susan Neal, aged 21, and William Neal, aged 18, were placed at the bar, charged with having feloniously put a quantity of white arsenic into a boiler containing beef broth, with intent to cause the death of William Hales and his family. It appeared in evidence that Mr. Hales is a cordwainer, residing in Howard-street, Yarmouth.

    His family consisted of himself, Mrs. Hales, three children, and a servant. On the day previous to that on which his family were taken ill, Mrs. Hales boiled a piece of beef in an iron boiler for dinner, of which they all partook, but they did not experience any illness from it. The liquor in which the beef was boiled remained in the boiler, as Mrs. Hales intended to make it into soup the following day for the family. The boiler was placed in a room under the keeping room, and in which Mr. Hales and his apprentices worked at their business. On the following morning the boiler was put upon the fire a short time before dinner, with the liquor in it, and when hot, Mrs. Hales took about a teacup full out of the boiler to taste, and gave her little boy (about three years of age) some at the same time. The servant was then ordered to put in the different ingredients to make it into soup.

    In about ten minutes after Mrs. Hales had taken the liquor, the little boy complained of illness, she therefore took him up-stairs and laid him down on the bed. Mrs. Hales had scarcely done this when she herself was taken ill. Mr. Hales, with his other two children and servant girl, then sat down to dinner, having of course no idea of the cause of Mrs. Hales’ illness. They all at table partook of this soup, and shortly after they were seized with similar symptoms, which caused Mr. Hales to suspect they had been poisoned. He therefore immediately sent for a surgeon, who, on his arrival, administered proper antidotes, which had the desired effect, or a few hours more would have terminated their existence. The whole family were under the surgeon’s hands for some time, but Mrs. Hales and one of the children still retain the effects of the poison, and are very likely to do so. The surgeon took the remaining part of the soup out of the boiler, some of which he gave to a dog, which immediately ejected it: the remainder he submitted to Mr. Davies, an eminent chemist on the Quay, who, on analysing it, found it to be deeply impregnated with white arsenic. It was afterwards discovered that Mrs. Neal and her daughter had purchased a pennyworth of arsenic at the shop of Mr. Suthern, a chemist in Gaol Street.

    They were in consequence, with Mr. Hales’ apprentice, immediately taken into custody, and on their examination before the Mayor, Mrs. Neal stated she was not troubled with rats or mice, nor did she know what arsenic was; but on her being confronted with the young man who sold her the poison, she could no longer conceal the fact, but she said she bought it to kill the mice with which her house was troubled; she, however, had previously stated that they had none in the house. On being questioned as to what they had done with the poison, an altercation ensued between the mother and daughter, as to the possession of it, the mother saying she gave it to the daughter, and the daughter saying she gave it to her mother; the daughter, however, at last informed the officer where he might find it, and on going to the house he discovered it on the top of the clock-case. On examining the paper in which it was enveloped, the chemist’s assistant stated that about one half of the quantity which Mrs. Neal and her daughter received had been taken out. Mrs. Neal stated that the part missing from the paper had been put on some bread and butter, and placed in different parts of the house, for the destruction of the mice.

    Mr. Hales stated that he had been lately compelled to take Wm. Neal, his apprentice, before the Mayor, for misconduct at two different periods, and that his mother wished him to leave, but that he refused to give up his indenture. On the evening previous to the day on which the family were poisoned, Mr. Hales went to his club, leaving Wm. Neal in the kitchen alone, where he was asked, and where the boiler was placed with the liquor in it. The apprentice did not board or lodge with the family. Mr. Hales also stated that Mrs. Neal, the mother, had contracted a debt with him, for the settlement of which he had repeatedly pressed her, but he had as repeatedly been abused by her; and she had lately expressed her fears to a neighbour that he intended to summon her before the Court of Requests. The whole of the evidence against the prisoners being entirely circumstantial, the Recorder stated the law upon the case with his usual ability and perspicuity, and left it to the Jury to consider whether the prisoners at the bar were guilty or not guilty of the dreadful offence of which they stood charged.—The Jury deliberated for a short time, and returned a verdict of guilty against all the prisoners. Sentence of Death was therefore recorded. This trial commenced at half-past nine in the morning, and did not terminate until half-past six in the evening.”

    The crime is one of the most infamous that took place in the town in the nineteenth century and it was followed widely with some considerable interest. The sentence was the final ever death sentence issued by the Great Yarmouth Sessions Court as it lost that power in 1835. And, in this case, it was decided to commute the sentences to transportation. They were held at the Tolhouse Gaol in Great Yarmouth and then sent to Australia for life on different ships.

    Mary Neal, the mother, was assigned to the female convict ship Midas which sailed from London on 24 July 1825 carrying 108 convicts. The ship’s master was James Baigrie, and the surgeon superintendent responsible for the health of the convicts was Charles Cameron and he noted that Mary was “very much emaciated” and she unfortunately died en route on 5 October 1825. The fate of Susan Neal, the daughter, isn’t known but there’s a high chance that she also died during transportation.

    William Neal, the son, was sent on the convict ship the Medway on 2 August 1825, arriving in Van Diemen’s Land (Tasmania) on 14 December 1825. He married Eliza (Clayton) Rowley on 31 December 31 1847, in Avoca, Tasmania. At the time of his marriage, his occupation was listed as a shoemaker which was the very trade he was learning as an apprentice under Mr. Hales, the man he was convicted of trying to poison. He and Eliza had several children and I do wonder whether he actually ended up having a better life with more opportunities than he might have had staying in Great Yarmouth.

  • 200 Years Ago : Mental Health in the Early Nineteenth Century

    200 Years Ago : Mental Health in the Early Nineteenth Century

    In my series of posts from 200 years ago this week, there were two stories in the same issue of the Norfolk Chronicle and Norwich Gazette which I noticed. These type of stories are very common, so there’s nothing unusual with this, but it’s a reminder of how bad mental health was in the early nineteenth century and how this isn’t just something that is a modern situation as some people I’ve heard have suggested. There’s nothing new about struggling with life, as these two stories suggest.

    Firstly, from Great Yarmouth:

    “An unfortunate female threw herself into the river, near the bridge on the north side, about one o’clock on Wednesday morning; first deliberately taking off her cap, and placing it on the ground, she floated under the bridge, and had it not been for her clothes keeping her buoyant, she must inevitably have met with a watery grave. An alarm was immediately given by the watchman near the bridge, when she was got out with great difficulty, her clothes fortunately caught the rudder of a boat lying under the bridge, or she must have been drawn under by the rapidity of the current and would not have risen again. Jealousy is assigned as the cause of this imprudent act.”

    Mental health issues and insecurity were perhaps the real cause of the act, but this is from 1823 and it feels wrong to judge.

    Secondly, from Oulton, near Lowestoft:

    “An inquest took place before JE Sparrow, coroner, on the body of Susan Sewell, who on Friday 8 August put an end to her existence by hanging herself in a shed contiguous to her dwelling. It was stated in evidence that the deceased was upwards of 75 years of age and had the misfortune to lose her husband by an accident about three months ago, which calamity appeared to preyed so much upon her mind as to lead to self-destruction.”

    And that’s it, a tragic story of what was perhaps a lonely lady who felt she had no other options and I assume nowhere else to go. It all feels like a tragedy to me, but what has changed recently is attitudes to depression and mental health. It has clearly always been there since time immemorial, but at least now it is better understood and there are ways of tackling it.

  • Great Yarmouth – Theatre Tavern

    Great Yarmouth – Theatre Tavern

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    This pub isn’t listed in the Good Beer Guide, not least because it doesn’t sell real ale, but I’ve never visited it before and so Julian and I decided to have a little look inside. It takes its name from the now demolished Theatre Royal first built in 1778 which was located on the other side of the road, which was later demolished to become the Regal Theatre and ended up as a Cannon cinema before it was demolished in the 1980s. The replacement buildings are ugly affairs, it’s a shame that the town lost the attractive theatre building. The pub has had its current name since 1824, meaning it’s not far off its 200th birthday, but there appears to have been a licensed premises here before then called Cups.

    There was a tragedy in 1845 when the Great Yarmouth suspension bridge collapsed and the owner of the Theatre Tavern, Mr Harmston, organised a performance at the Theatre Royal to raise money for the families of those who had been killed. Over the decades, many of the performers appearing at the theatre came into the pub, it’s got some considerable heritage.

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    Wrongly branded glasses as Julian went for a Corona (and the bar did offer lime) and myself a John Smith’s, both tasted fine and were reasonably priced. It was evident that this was a proper community pub, it was busy and there was a vibrant but informal atmosphere so I’m confident that visitors to the town would feel welcome.

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    The bar area and Julian noted that they were talking about the Sheepdog Peanut Butter whiskey, as he’s sceptical of such flavourings. Fortunately Nathan and I had tried this decadent a shot a few weeks before over the road (well, over a couple of roads) in the Troll Cart pub. I recommend it.

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    There’s a pool table at the back, which I thought was interesting given the limited space available in the venue. The male toilets are out in the courtyard, seemingly a big improvement when they were installed in 1932 but now increasingly rare.

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    The old lounge bar sign showing the entrance to what is now the pool room. The bar is open to the front of the pub and has a hatch to the rear, not much has changed in terms of the interior structure over the decades and I think that’s rather wonderful. This is a proper pub with character, not burdened with craft beer or real ale, but nonetheless it seems to be catering very well to its audience and I liked it.

  • Great Yarmouth – South Star / Quayside Tavern (closed)

    Great Yarmouth – South Star / Quayside Tavern (closed)

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    It’s always sad to see a pub closed, this is the former South Star, later known as the Quayside Tavern and the Quay Pride. It shut a couple of years ago and that closure seems permanent as it appears to be a private residence now. It took its name from the South Star Battery which was a defensive structure built in 1782. Norfolk Heritage Explorer notes that the back garden wall has some reused materials from the former Blackfriars Friary which was dissolved in the 1530s. These are attractive Lacons buildings which are located in numerous places around Great Yarmouth, a distinctive design from the 1920s.

  • Great Yarmouth – Blackfriars Tavern (Second Visit)

    Great Yarmouth – Blackfriars Tavern (Second Visit)

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    This is my second visit to this really very good pub, which I waxed lyrical about before. This time I had visited on a day trip with another Julian where we went to all the Good Beer Guide pubs, plus another pub that looked interesting that I hadn’t been to before.

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    The welcome was just as effusive this time and I was delighted to see that they have a food menu which I hadn’t realised before.

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    And I like a pie! They didn’t have a couple of choices available, but they’re home made and the steak and kidney pie was excellent, plenty of steak without any of the fatty bits so that’s a win. Much better than the processed stuff that some pubs sell.

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    The former smoke room entrance that I hadn’t noticed on my previous visit. I didn’t mention last time that the pub takes it name from the former Blackfriars church which existed in this area. There are bits of that building, which burnt in 1525 and was dissolved in 1534, still visible in the South Star (now closed) and Feathers Inn pubs.

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    Many of these bottles are for sale, I think I thought that they were decorative last time. This is why I need to revisit pubs to find out things I hadn’t initially realised…… I’m not always the most observant.

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    The Stout Robin from Barsham Brewery was very agreeable, well kept and had a roasted flavour which suitably complemented my pie.

    I won’t repeat what I wrote in my previous post about this pub, the same applied on this visit and I think it’s a welcoming and inviting place with a landlord who understands pubs. But once again, I will say that anyone visiting Great Yarmouth who likes pubs with a comfortable atmosphere would be well advised to take a slight detour to get here. All very lovely.

  • Great Yarmouth – Blackfriars Tavern

    Great Yarmouth – Blackfriars Tavern

    Firstly, my apologies that I wasn’t intending to write up the day that Nathan I spent visiting all the Good Beer Guide pubs in Great Yarmouth and Lowestoft. This means that I didn’t burden myself with taking many photos, so my extensive readership of two will just have to use their imagination a bit more than usual. I am slowly, but very surely, visiting every pub in the Good Beer Guide which is an impossible project but that doesn’t stop me. This pub in Great Yarmouth (94 Blackfriars’ Road, NR30 3BZ) is just a little out of the way, so credit once again to the Good Beer Guide for listing this venue.

    Let me start by writing up-front that this is a very good pub and I was absolutely unable to fault it. The warmth of the welcome, the engagement from who I am guessing is the landlord, the range of the beers and the inviting nature of the environment. This is going to be one of those feel good posts where just everything went well. As a pre-cursor to the below, the landlord mentioned to us that he had just written a blog post that day about the beer Nathan ordered, so for some extra context have a read of https://www.blackfriarstavern.co.uk/the-story-of-the-starry-night-stout-and-the-three-wise-men/. That web-site is a work of art on its own with the width of their offering being clearly evident.

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    I went for the Recessive Red from the reliable Mr Winter’s and this was a well kept quite punchy 6% red ale. There were two darker beers with Nathan going for the Starry Night Stout from Tindall Brewing and checking through his Untappd he was happy with it and its smoothness. He probably told me at the time, but I doubt I was listening. We were on one of our random days out with occasional shots (it’s a long story, but we should probably be supervised by a responsible adult if I’m being honest), which is why there’s a delicious shot sitting next to my real ale. I don’t actually want to focus on the beer choice for too long, but it was excellent for a venue of this size with five real ales and an extensive Belgian beer selection. And the pub wasn’t just offering beers, the landlord was positively enthusing about them. This is a landlord that cares about his beer.

    The reason that I don’t want to linger on the beer is that this wasn’t the highlight of the visit, and in many ways, it shouldn’t be. The star of the show was the friendly landlord, engaging and welcoming. He also didn’t demur about our random shot and just slightly odd behaviour, he positively embraced it and so no criticisms there. There were plenty of board games and Nathan rushed over with chess as he’s from a chess winning family. Privately I suspect that’s as he didn’t want to play monopoly for four hours which is what I would have ended up doing. Although he quite rightly mentioned that it would have been no hardship staying here for several hours. Incidentally, he won at chess, but I like letting him win as it cheers him up.

    There’s also a very decent refurbishment that has gone on here, it’s traditional but yet on-trend which is a hard thing to achieve. There’s nothing formulaic about this pub, it’s laid-back, it’s slightly quirky and it does the welcoming thing well. I’ve mentioned before that one of the key measures of a pub is that someone coming in on their own, perhaps new to the area, feels like it’s a venue they’re part of and a community to which they feel they can join. I absolutely got that feeling here, this is absolutely right to be in the Good Beer Guide, it’s glorious. Anyone coming to Great Yarmouth who likes pubs should pop in and linger here for some time.

  • Great Yarmouth – Brewer’s Chip Saloon

    Great Yarmouth – Brewer’s Chip Saloon

    And as part of my irregular series on chip options at Great Yarmouth market….. This is the car park end of Yarmouth market and I didn’t know that these two stalls were located here, I thought they were all at the other end of the covered market. Liam was also able to pop over for lunch, despite being very busy building a bridge.

    There was consistently a much longer queue for Brewer’s than their neighbour, which didn’t have any queue at all. There are perhaps three main reasons for this, (i) the chips are much better, (ii) the British just like queueing or (iii) the denizens of Great Yarmouth have noted that the medium chips are 10p cheaper at this stall than their neighbour. My reason for queueing here was the second one, I decided that if other people were queueing that they must know something that I didn’t.

    The chips were £1.30, which seemed very reasonable to me, with the sauce being free of charge. I like this policy as I’m easily pleased with free gestures. I really don’t feel that I’m a chips connoisseur, since they mostly all taste the same to me. The ones here were perhaps a little crunchier than their nearby rivals, but they were entirely satisfactory to me. I’m not sure I’d say they were any better or worse than other stalls, but each to their own.

    The service was also friendly and unhurried, although the staff member was going at a decent pace to serve customers. They didn’t accept cards, but otherwise their Covid handling seemed pretty perfect to me, with a sizeable Perspex screen. So, all rather lovely for £1.30 and I think I might come back here again.

  • Great Yarmouth – Docwra’s Chip Stall

    Great Yarmouth – Docwra’s Chip Stall

    I’m not sure what the best strategy is in terms of choosing between the various chip stalls at Great Yarmouth market. I decided on the practical solution of going under the covered section of the market to try and avoid any seagull related attacks. The owner of this stall, Norma Docwra, said in the local press a couple of years ago that the seagulls were becoming an increasing problem and she’s not wrong. There was one seagull who hopped along at one stage, but I followed that advice of staring at it, and it merrily hopped off. Rarely do wild animals or birds do what I expect, so this pleased me. Anyway, I digress.

    There’s a plethora of chip coverings at the stall, including curry sauce, chicken gravy, onion gravy, cheese, BBQ sauce, beans, mayo, burger sauce, spicy chilli sauce, sweet chilli sauce and chilli con care. Or, if those don’t appeal, there are sachets of tomato ketchup and brown sauce for 10p each.

    I went for topless chips, just adulterated in a positive way (I’m not sure that’s a thing) with salt and vinegar. I’m not one for large portions of chips, so went for the £1.20 option which proved to be entirely sufficient. Ignoring the toppings options, I like stalls where there’s just one product for sale, it makes things much easier.

    The chips were fine, not greasy, sufficiently plentiful for the money, hot and at the appropriate hot temperature. I’m not really a chip expert, so I don’t know what they were cooked in. There were two staff members, the younger one was happy and bubbly (the other one was the owner and she was serving another customer, so she might have been just as happy and bubbly but I wasn’t paying attention) so there was a friendly feel to the whole arrangement.

    All rather lovely and excellent value at £1.20. Based on this, and for comparison purposes, I might start a little research survey of other Great Yarmouth food options at the market.

  • Great Yarmouth – Tombstone Saloon

    Great Yarmouth – Tombstone Saloon

    Tucked away a little, although within a short walk of the main market-place is this Good Beer Guide listed pub in Great Yarmouth. Calling itself a saloon, not least because of its American west theme, it’s the bar section of the Tombstone Brewery. It’s an under-stated location from the exterior and until about ten years ago, this was the home of the restaurant Cafe Nova. Indeed, some of the decoration from that period as a tapas restaurant remains today as the bar area.

    A decent selection of real ale, particularly given the trading limitations that all pubs currently have. The pub was also busy, with someone at nearly every table, and there was a relaxed atmosphere in the pub. There were numerous tempting options visible at the bar, not least the scampi fries, with a range of different beer types.

    I opted for the Tindall Stout, which was reasonably priced at £3.30. There are a couple of stouts produced by the Tindall Brewery, a small–scale local producer from nearby, in Seething, but the board didn’t name which one it was. I’m guessing though that it was the caramel stout and I came to that conclusion because I thought it tasted of caramel…. It seemed a little weak in body at first, but the aftertaste was rich and moreish, so a decent beer.

    The wild west theme hasn’t been taken too far, but it adds character and atmosphere to the surroundings. The service was polite and the pub staff were following the current guidelines in terms of taking customer details. A fair few pubs aren’t doing this very well at the moment, and although I can’t say it overly bothers me, it does show a level of professionalism. It’s not the largest of pubs either, so I can imagine that it gets relatively busy during a warm balmy day in summer. Well, I like to think that tourists come here in a reasonable number anyway.

    There wasn’t really anything exceptional about my visit that I can add, although that doesn’t mean there was any particular problem. But the customer service didn’t engage beyond the minimum, so there’s not much more I can add about that. I would say though that it felt like the kind of pub where you’d soon be known after visiting a few times, it had that sort of character to it. The selection of beers and ciders, as well as spirits, is also well above the average and so I can see why it’s listed in the Good Beer Guide.