Category: Trieste

  • Trieste – Risiera di San Sabba (Evil of Odilo Globocnik)

    Trieste – Risiera di San Sabba (Evil of Odilo Globocnik)

    There will now follow a series of posts about Risiera di San Sabba, the only concentration camp in Italy with a crematorium and a location that I’ve visited before. Firstly, there’s one individual whose name I’ve come across a few times over recent years and I hadn’t realised that he was born in Trieste.

    Odilo Globocnik has a reputation for being one of the most evil men of the Nazi regime, which is hardly known for its tolerance and understanding anyway. You could make a claim that some individuals almost got caught up in the Nazi regime as part of their military career, maybe Karl Dönitz who was ultimately found not guilty of crimes against humanity.

    But there are others who saw the Second World War as an opportunity to murder people and destroy settlements. Reinhard Heydrich, a pretty pathetic figure who had been dismissed from military service due to his behaviour, but he happened on the right career move for him by attaching himself to the Nazis at just the appropriate moment.

    Then there is Odilo Globocnik, who helped to create and then ran Operation Reinhard, the plan named after Heydrich to murder all Polish Jews. He was not an accidental bureaucrat reluctantly following orders but an eager organiser who pushed for ever more brutal “efficiency” as he might call it, massively enriching himself through theft while treating mass killing as administrative routine. His actions weren’t the product of confusion or wartime chaos but of deliberate, committed cruelty, carried out with zeal and without remorse, leaving a legacy of human suffering on an appalling scale. He deliberately sought out people to murder and took huge joy in what he did.

    Odilo Globocnik was given the huge job of being appointed as the Gauleiter of Vienna in 1938, a role he was incapable of doing. He managed to cause all manner of political turbulence of the sort even the Nazis didn’t want and he was fired after it was realised that he was a conman who was stealing huge sums of money. Despite this, Himmler allowed him to transfer to Lublin, where he restarted his career with some zeal.

    Globocnik was responsible from that point for the Lublin Ghetto and he then liquidated the Warsaw and Białystok ghettoes. He was also involved with the creation of the Majdanek, Treblinka, Sobibór and Bełżec extermination camps where millions of people died. He got involved with the killings as often as he could, he was a brutal figure.

    After being sent to Trieste, he wrote to Himmler on 4 November 1943 to tell him that Operation Reinhard had been concluded and the concentration camps could be dissolved. His work then focused on Trieste and the establishment of Risiera di San Sabba, ensuring that any Jews would be liquidated but also ensuring that any political dissidents, as he might call them, would be arrested. Mussolini by this time had been overthrown, so there was a power vacuum where the Germans wanted control to prevent the partisans from seizing it. However, when the Allied troops started to retake territory, he fled into the mountains.

    The British found Globocnik on 31 May 1945, but he bit down onto a cyanide capsule and killed himself to avoid trial. It might be a myth, but it’s said that the local priest refused to bury him in his church, he was too evil for consecrated ground, so he was shoved into a hole near the church.

    That is the background for Risiera di San Sabba, a former factory preserved now as a reminder of the war crimes that took place here.

  • Flixbus – Trieste to Ljubljana

    Flixbus – Trieste to Ljubljana

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    I can’t say that I ever really look forward to using Flixbus, there’s usually some sort of issue attached to their journeys which just makes things difficult. However, the journey from Trieste to Ljubljana is relatively quick by coach and hard by any other method, so given it was reasonably priced, I booked it.

    In the above photo is where it’s meant to leave from, at the downstairs of the coach station. They make very clear on the ticket location not to wait outside the coach station.

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    And here’s the Flixbus that stopped outside the coach station. Fortunately, someone came in and told everyone waiting that the coach was departing from outside, but it was a bit of a faff for those with luggage to have to move at short notice. Apparently this isn’t actually where it usually stops, I have no idea what their logic was that night.

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    Flixbus doesn’t always force people to have a seat reservation, but they did on this service. And, it was the usual mess and chaos, although my window seat was free and I didn’t have any issues. An upset lady did though have a problem as her seat was already taken and a staff member came over to resolve it, then he realised that about six people were in the wrong place and it would be too difficult to fix without ending up playing some odd form of Jenga on a moving coach. With that, the coach pulled off and the poor lady, by now quite upset, fell over. The staff were very friendly, but Flixbus makes very little simple.

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    And safely into Ljubljana…. I will continue to try and avoid Flixbus, they’re a public transport option of last resort for me as there’s nearly always something that’s a problem. But maybe I’m being unfair as I just prefer trains……

  • Venice to Trieste Rail Journey

    Venice to Trieste Rail Journey

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    After my brief one night stay on Wednesday, I decided to head off to Trieste as I had to meet the others on Friday in Ljubljana. Constructed after the Second World War, the current railway station is one of the modern buildings with river frontage in this part of Venice.

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    I had a little wait for my train, so I went off to look around the railway station. The first Venice Santa Lucia railway station was constructed in 1861 and it takes its name from the church of Santa Lucia which they pulled down to allow for the new station building.

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    This is the view from the side of the railway station, this is one beautiful city. I have seen anything as beautiful as this since Lowestoft railway station flooded.

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    And here’s the train, departing from platform 1.

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    Regular readers of this riveting blog will now be familiar with the interior of Hitachi’s Rock trains. This is the top deck.

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    And the lower deck.

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    I’m very grateful that the signage on these trains is clear.

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    Leaving the beautiful city of Venice.

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    They might not be easy to take photos of, but there are some lovely views from the line near to Trieste as the train entered the Istrian peninsular.

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    The long platforms of Trieste railway station.

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    And back in my favourite Italian city of Trieste and it appears that there’s some work being done in the main departure hall.

  • Ljubljana – Day Four (Flixbus from Ljubljana to Trieste)

    Ljubljana – Day Four (Flixbus from Ljubljana to Trieste)

    It was the morning of my birthday, so what better plan could I have than to travel on a bloody Flixbus? Four of us were taking the ninety minute journey to Trieste where we spending the evening before all flying back the following day.

    I’ve used Flixbus many times and I always dread it, as their policies seem odd to me. I boarded and then tried to take the seat they told me to sit in, which annoyed the lady next to me I think as it soon became apparent that the coach was nearly entirely empty. Steve, Susanna, Bev and I were scattered around the coach, their whole reservation strategy is just a nuisance. I don’t understand why it can’t be an optional thing like many other coach companies such as National Express.

    Bev and Susanna just boarded the coach without showing their tickets, as they’re like that. Steve and I thought we’d board properly, but Bev and Susanna soon rushed off to the ticket collector when they realised.

    There are USB power outlets on the back of some seats, but they didn’t work.

    Safely in Trieste where it was wet and rainy. The staff members on the Flixbus were polite, the driving seemed entirely acceptable and the coach was sort of clean. It was only a ninety minute journey, but for as long as Flixbus keep forcing seat reservations on people, I’m going to try and avoid travelling with them.

  • Ljubljana – Day One (They’re in Trieste)

    Ljubljana – Day One (They’re in Trieste)

    Great news, they were safely on the bus which rushed them into Trieste. Note that instead of living in the moment and looking out of the window at the beautiful view, they’re glued to their phones. The older generation……

    Look at the excitement where there’s food involved. Steve and I are much more interested in the environment we’re in, but the thought of a croissant and Susanna and Bev are totally distracted. Mind you, it’s got them off their phones temporarily.

    Very festive….

    Their coach from Trieste to Ljubljana is in two hours, so they have potential to explore the city a little in that time….. We’re all going back there on Monday, so hopefully they’re taking the time to recce a nice restaurant for my birthday.