After two interesting days in Genoa and environs, it was time for the next £8.99 adventure and it was back to Warsaw. I had taken the train to the nearest station and enjoyed a pleasant ten minute walk to get here.
They’re reconstructing the lounge here and that reopens next year, but the airside space was sizeable and had power points. I think that there are plans to increase the size of the airport and make it a more important one, so there are a series of renovations taking place.
This is not a major international airport and Wizz Air have quite a limited presence here. There’s certainly potential for more passengers to use this airport, there is a decent public transport link, the terminal is large and Genoa would likely benefit substantially from more tourists and commercial connections.
I’m conscious that I’m very much repeating myself here, but, yet again, the boarding process was well managed with friendly gate agents. Everything was clearly signed, it was efficient and it felt organised.
Boarding the aircraft, which was registration HA-LXS which I last went on in February 2022. Boarding was smooth and efficient, with the aircraft being clean.
The seating Gods had given me a window seat and my bag is visible there having a little rest. But, since the entire row was clear, I moved to an aisle seat. The aircraft was about 60% full which makes matters more comfortable.
I nearly never get anything from the trolley on flights as it’s far too decadent, but I was hungry and so felt the need for some noodles. These are around £4, which doesn’t feel unreasonable for an aircraft.
Delicious, although I won’t get used to this level of decadence.
And safely onto the bus to take us to the terminal and as this was a Schengen flight with no border controls it meant I went from here to the train in just five minutes.
The flight cost me £9 and once again I was surprised and delighted by Wizz Air. Everything was smooth, well managed, comfortable and organised, with plenty of space on board. I accept that my splashing out on fine dining took the price of this to £13, but that still feels decent value to me.
In a similar vein to my photos of Rapallo, I’m going to admit to myself now that I’m getting behind with this blog and so I’ll have to do another job lot of photos to excite and delight my two loyal blog readers.
I rather liked Genoa, the old town is still full of small streets and interesting corners, there’s real evidence in the buildings at how powerful Genoa once was. There are few chain stores, just a lot of smaller shops which do add considerably to the atmosphere. That also makes for lots of small cafes, bars and restaurants, with supermarkets struggling to fit themselves around buildings.
The city does look like it needs a lot of investment, the marina area was improved a couple of decades ago, but there’s a lot of money still needed. I saw one “tourists go home” sign along the lines of those in Barcelona and numerous other cities, but I’m not sure Genoa can easily afford that little plan. I’m sure that Airbnb and the like are damaging, I hope they’re much more heavily regulated and taxed in the future.
It’s definitely a vibrant, and even grimy, city, but it does have some considerable charm because it feels authentic. It’s not as touristy as many other Italian locations and it was also a bit dented by air raids during the Second World War, but it’s still quirky and real.
One thing that I hear in the UK is something like “you don’t hear English any more”, which I’m not sure is entirely true given that just about everyone speaks it. Anyway, I won’t get political…. But, in many cities, English is the language I hear the most because of the number of tourists. That might be convenient for me, but it doesn’t really lead to an authentic charm when overdone. In Genoa, I rarely heard anything other than Italian, but the locals (or the ones I encountered in the hospitality industry) spoke perfect English and were all welcoming.
It’s a city that I would return to, I think it’s likely a harder city to penetrate and fully understand than many others, but I like places like that. I didn’t have time to visit the museums or the largest aquarium in Europe, but I’ll work my way around those if I come back. Anyway, now a heap of photos….
NB, several people thought that the figurehead looked like Richard, but I don’t comment on such things.
After my success earlier in the day getting to Rapallo on a modern and functional train, I thought it would be an easy matter to get a similar service to Genoa Airport. It transpired that it wasn’t.
The ticket purchasing was via machine and that element went well, so I meandered up to sit on the platform confident in my abilities to navigate the Italian rail network.
The view from the platform over the town square.
The sleepy town and its railway station which they didn’t burden their resources by actually staffing it. However, the whole affair is better than Deutsche Bahn, that’s something that I do need to mention.
The waiting room had a few seats, but it needed more and it hadn’t had the modernisation that most UK railway stations seem to have had which has put in not just more seats, but also power points. I found a validation machine in the waiting room, I think I would have put it on the platform rather than hidden around a corner, but I’m not an expert in these matters…..
The board was working, but these rickety old display systems don’t photograph well. Not that I’m complaining, but this said that the next service in was the one that I wanted.
This train trundled in and there was evidently a problem as there were lots of Italians asking each other questions. That meant they didn’t know what train it was and there was no signage which indicated which it was, something that wouldn’t happen on the UK rail network for all its faults. Anyway, that will be the end of my comparing the networks….. Unsure of what to do, I just got on this one as it was going in the right direction.
The train was clean and comfortable, with numerous power outlets. The on-board screens were broken and there were no announcements, but it was evident that I was on the wrong train as it was stopping at stations that I hadn’t expected it to.
However, after some slight concern that I was going to Milan, I realised that this train was actually heading to Genoa and so I could remain on board and just change in the city centre. Some quick Googling also showed me that I had boarded an RGV train rather than an R train, but my ticket was still valid. It meant that it was going to the airport stop that I needed, but at least I wasn’t going to end up somewhere a long distance away.
This all meant an unexpected stop back in Genoa city centre.
I popped to Carrefour to get some drink as it was so hot. I don’t think I’ve mentioned the heat in the last few posts but there were still Italians visible wrapped up in their coats whilst I was still fending off potential heatstroke.
I’ve had these a few times, they’re rather lovely and they calmed my stress levels. Actually, I wasn’t stressed, but it was a handy excuse.
Back on the platform, this is the train that I needed to get to the airport stop.
As a network, it’s evidently understaffed with nearly no-one about. If there is some crisis, it would take some time for anyone to be found to offer assistance. Fortunately, I was very brave and dealt with my little adventure on my own.
Here’s my Rock train sweeping in. My ticket was still valid and so I didn’t have to acquire a new one which made matters easier. Although it seemed unlikely that anyone would actually check the tickets.
This looked like the train I had been on earlier, so all was well as the on-board signage was good and indicated the train and I had the same plan on where we were going. Again, a fair few of the power outlets were broken but the working ones light up which makes it easy to establish this without plugging my phone into each one. I liked this train though, it was clean and comfortable.
And into Genova Sestri Ponente, which is the nearest railway station to the airport. It’s about a ten minute walk, but it’s cheaper than getting the airport service and I’m not made of money. And I like walking.
There’s the old bridge over the tracks to the left and the new one to the right. I’m surprised by looking at it that the old bridge hasn’t fallen down over the rail track, although I’m conscious that the Ponte Morandi road bridge in the city collapsed (my friend Liam must be a very good civil engineer as nothing he has built has, to my knowledge, fallen down) a few years and so I’m sure that this smaller arrangement is safe as it’s at least closed off.
The new pedestrian bridge and they’ve made this an accessible route to the airport as there’s a lift option here as well.
It is really quite a pleasant little walk to the airport.
The airport was constructed by using land reclamation, so much of this area is new.
And eating the last of my chocolates before heading into the airport.
I like travelling on rail networks overseas and I haven’t been on the Italian system much, so I thought that I’d have a little day trip from Genoa to Rapallo. It probably wasn’t the best idea to be taking the train for an hour in the opposite direction to the airport where I was getting an evening flight from, but I like a bit of drama.
This is Genova Brignole, the second largest station in the city and it opened here in 1868 although the current building dates to 1905. It’s spacious, grand and functional, with a ticket office and more helpfully to me, numerous ticket kiosks.
Mine was the 11:24 train to Sestri Levante. The eagle eyed one of my two readers will note that there’s an earlier train, but long experience has cautioned me against rushing for these things and making a mistake.
I went to the platform and realised that the ticket validators were all downstairs, so if I had rushed for my train I wouldn’t have possibly realised this.
My now validated ticket.
The station sign and there was an absence of staff anywhere, the only one that I saw was in the ticket office.
It was too hot, but I don’t like to go on about these things.
And here comes the Caravaggio train built by Hitachi, but better known as the Rock. They’re two tier trains and they look shiny and exciting.
Most of the power sockets were broken, but fortunately I found a working one so that I was charged up for the day. The train was clean, there were no visible guards, but the information screens were clear and informative. There were also some pleasant views along the coast as we swept along what is apparently known as the Italian Riviera.
And safely into Rapallo railway station, with the ticket costing around £4. I thought that this was reasonable and the train was on time, with the whole arrangement being easy and efficient. The return journey wasn’t, but more on that later.
My second night in Genoa was at the keenly priced and centrally located Hotel Acquario. It wasn’t very well reviewed, but the problems seemed to relate to a previous owner, so it seemed a reasonable place to book. After I had worked out how to open the door to reception, there was a prompt and personable welcome.
There are steps to get to the lift, so accessibility options aren’t really great here. The lift also stopped working overnight, but I bravely managed to walk up a few flights of stairs.
The room was clean, functional and the air conditioning worked. I didn’t hear any guests during my stay, so I’m not sure that it was very busy. Given that there were no guests evident, there were also no internal noise issues.
The bathroom with shower was also clean, functional and everything worked as expected. There has been something of a renovation earlier this year, so everything feels modern and well looked after.
I did debate having the very cheap breakfast, but it required pre-booking and so I decided against it as I couldn’t be making big decisions like that so early on the day before. But, there is a small breakfast room and a basic breakfast provided for a charge of around £5.
I left the window open as I like street noise, although there was excellent double glazing so if anyone wanted it closed they probably wouldn’t hear anything. I was careful taking the photo out of the window in case I plummeted out or dropped my phone…..
Overall, I was pleased with the stay, I thought it represented value for money and is one of those occasions where online reviews aren’t always what they might appear at first sight.
My first night in Genoa was at the keenly priced Novotel, around a twenty minute bus journey away from the airport (well, after a twenty minute walk as well).
I popped to the bar to get my welcome drink.
And after eight minutes I went back to reception as there were no bar staff. Incidentally, the reception desk were friendly and engaging, it was a very welcoming hotel.
The matter was promptly addressed and I got my Peroni, which tasted of metal and disappointment.
The bedroom. I didn’t turn either of them on, but this is the smaller of the two televisions in the apartment.
And the lounge area as well as the hotel had kindly upgraded me to their apartment suite. I did like having that desk and I had more than enough power points to plug devices into.
I didn’t really need a kitchen as well. The free welcome drinks were handy though.
Nor two huge drawers of plates, glasses and other assorted items.
The Nespresso machine with a kettle for teas.
And a microwave.
I had an entire room for a closet as well, I nearly put my one shirt up in the wardrobe to make the most of it.
The view from the room. The air conditioning in the rooms worked well, but I like having a bit of city noise and the windows opened wide which also helped fresh air get in as well.
Breakfast was suitably quiet at 07:15.
Croissants.
I usually skip hot items at breakfast, but the bacon was suitably burnt for my tastes and so I had some of that.
Hams and other items. Unfortunately, the allergens situation here was poorly handled, they were using shared tongs for cheeses, meats and olives. That meant that they had meat, dairy and all other allergens on numerous items, so I’m not sure that anyone with dietary issues would be entirely content here.
Very lovely.
And cake for breakfast is always lovely.
The online reviews for the hotel aren’t entirely positive, but I was pleased with everything. I think the car park charges are a bit high, but that’s hardly something that I need to bother myself with. I suspect that some elements of the hotel are due a refurbishment judging from the reviews, although the public areas looked shiny.
This hotel was very cheap as I was using rewards night, with the size of the upgrade being something of a pleasant surprise. There were a few minor cleanliness issues, but nothing of any concern, with the staff members always being friendly and helpful. I would stay here again if I was visiting Genoa again (well, obviously I won’t stay here if I don’t visit the city, but I digress).
Just as a slightly random post, I had a little meander around one of the Carrefour Express supermarkets in the centre of Genoa. And meander is the appropriate word, they struggle for space and so the selection was wrapped around inside looking more like a miniature Ikea, there’s no Tesco Express blandness here.
Anyway, here’s the beer range which felt reasonable for a little city centre shop as there’s quite a broad selection of styles. There are some strong beers and in the top right of the photo below, a couple of slightly more decadent beers from the Mastri Birrai Umbri brewery in Perugia. That the first Italian city that I visited and that was over fifteen years ago, so I must pop back there.
The prices didn’t seem bad either.
Alongside the Nutella, strawberry yoghurt and liquer chocolates, I went for the Raffo Lavorazione Grezza. It’s quite a malty lager and I must admit that I didn’t hate it, especially at the low price that they were charging.
As I was still surprised and delighted by the number of craft beer locations in Genoa, I decided to visit Scurreria Beer and Bagel. I timed my visit well as it was packed by the time I left, which was still early evening.
Staff welcome customers at the door and then seat them, with a QR code on the table giving access to the drinks and food menu. The beers are ever changing, hence why providing a printed menu would be challenging. Table service is then offered and I found the whole arrangement well managed and organised. It all had a vibrant and personal charm, this isn’t a large venue by any means.
The online reviews are very positive for this venue and it felt like mostly locals rather than tourists. That certainly bodes well for the future of craft beer and hopefully more similar venues to this will open up.
For the second time in one day I accidentally ordered a burger, but I don’t mind a bit of duplication. This one was the spicy beef burger and the meat was juicy with the spicy mayo adding flavour, along with the rather lovely caramelised onions.
The beer is the Heavy Punch from the Bonavena Brewing Company, a punchy, hoppy and citrusy beer which was rounded and complemented the burger nicely.
I found the venue friendly, welcoming and the beer range was nicely curated with a selection of different styles. The prices were reasonable and the background music was at an appropriate level for the day. The food menu is primarily bagels and burgers, although there are some other options to surprise and delight customers. All really rather lovely.
Located next to the former home of Christopher Columbus are these medieval cloisters which feel slightly out of place. That’s primarily as they are out of place, they’ve knocked the nearby church down but thought they’d like to keep these cloisters and so they moved them.
They were attached to the twelfth century Benedictine Monastery, but progress was progress and in the early twentieth century the city authorities wanted modernity and a better infrastructure, so the demolition took place in 1905.
They’re quite understated here, even though they’re next to a busy historic attraction. Which has the advantage that there’s no people, tourist shops or anything else cluttering the arrangement up.
The monastery’s existence had really ended in 1799 when the religious community was shut down by Napoleon. The monastery then became a college, then a prison and so the religious links had long since gone when they decided that the entire area needed clearing.
I’m aware that this scam is hardly the preserve of Genoa, I’ve seen it in Rome, Florence, Athens and Milan, but it still feels sub-optimal. I’ve blurred out the two ‘victims’ in this photo but I saw numerous people being upset by this and so it appears they weren’t aware of how it worked despite it being such a common scam.
But, in short, they offer to put a free bracelet or some other rubbish on the wrist whilst trying to be engaging and welcoming. The aim is that the tourists, who are looking to enjoy their day, are pleased to be offered something for free and they make conversation. They are then asked for a donation and it’s hard to remove the bracelet now it’s firmly attached to the wrist of the victim.
I did ignore four different people trying it on me, although it’s never going to work on me as I don’t want a free bracelet. Indeed, I don’t want any adornments of any kind even if they were complimentary. Now, if they tried giving me a decadent can of craft beer, then they might be in business.
The whole arrangement here saddens me as it causes distress, from minor annoyance to general upset, to those targeted, brings the area into disrepute and I can see a relatively large number of negative online reviews about the area because of it. Although this certainly isn’t a new thing, there’s a review from 15 years from someone who felt intimidated by it happening in the Genoa Waterfront Marina area.
I’m not sure if it’s a criminal offence or not, but some of the behaviour I saw today from victims who pushed back was certainly verging on harassment and threats of violence. There were a fair few Carabinieri nearby, so perhaps those involved know just how far to push their little scam without getting into trouble.
