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  • Wrocław – National Museum in Wrocław (Pieta from St. Vincent’s Church)

    Wrocław – National Museum in Wrocław (Pieta from St. Vincent’s Church)

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    This pietà is in the collections of the National Museum in Wrocław and it was made in the area, likely in around 1420. It’s a depiction of dead Jesus following the crucifixion, designed to have emotional intensity and evidently from the Gothic tradition. It’s a medieval polychrome wooden statue, although the colours have rather faded away over the centuries. I am fascinated by these depictions, not because they’re particularly cheerful, but because I can try and imagine the thousands of people in the medieval period who would have looked at them and maybe inspired by them.

    It was originally located in St. James’s Church which was founded in around 1240 as a Romanesque church, although it underwent significant Gothic reconstruction in the 14th and 15th centuries. In 1530, after the displaced Premonstratensians took the church over when the Franciscans were kicked out, it was rededicated to St. Vincent of Saragossa which was their patron saint of the monastery that they’d been thrown out of. The building was badly damaged during the Second World War, including the Hochberg Chapel where this statue had been located. The chapel has now been reconstructed and they’ve placed a copy of this statue in there, with the main Cathedral (as it now is) being the home of the Ukrainian Greek Catholic Church. I’m not sure whether this statue was recovered after the war from the damaged church, or whether it was moved earlier on to protect it, but it’s something of a survivor.

    I also rather like that when this statue was originally placed here, the church was in Poland state (the Piast dynasty), although it then came under the control of the Kingdom of Bohemia, then the Habsburg Monarchy, then the Prussian Empire, then the German Empire, then the Weimar Republic, then Nazi Germany and only in 1945 did it return to Poland again.

  • Wrocław – The Gnomes of Wrocław (B01 : Panoramist)

    Wrocław – The Gnomes of Wrocław (B01 : Panoramist)

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    This gnome of Wrocław is located on the windowsill of the Panorama Racławicka at ul. Purkyniego 11, with more of this important museum coming in a future post…. (oh, the anticipation of it all!) This gallery has the monumental panoramic painting depicting the Battle of Racławice, hence the brave gnome on a horse.

  • Wrocław – The Gnomes of Wrocław (Unknown 1)

    Wrocław – The Gnomes of Wrocław (Unknown 1)

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    One thing that I’m surprised by is how hard it is to identify a lot of the gnomes in Wrocław as the official directory only has a small number in. Even AI can’t sort this out, ChatGPT and Google Gemini give different answers and they’re often not right. So, this gnome is going in my unknown list, anyone who knows what it is officially called can e-mail me at jw@julianwhite.uk   🙂

  • Wrocław – The Gnomes of Wrocław (Farmaceut – the Pharmacist Dwarf)

    Wrocław – The Gnomes of Wrocław (Farmaceut – the Pharmacist Dwarf)

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    In the Gnomes of Wrocław collection, this is Farmaceut, the Pharmacist Dwarf, with his own pill blister pack. It’s linked to the Boehringer Ingelheim, a German pharmaceutical company with strong connections to Poland.

  • Wrocław – AleBrowar

    Wrocław – AleBrowar

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    I’ve had quite a few beers from AleBrowar over the years and I’ve also been to their taproom in Gdynia. They do flights of any five beers for 40zl and that felt a suitable way of trying a number of them. The brewery was established in Lębork in 2012 and they were one of the earliest craft brewers in Poland, most focusing on hoppy beers although they brew a variety of different styles.

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    The interior in the early afternoon when the bar wasn’t exactly as its busiest. The service was friendly and I liked that the server gave me a printed receipt of the five beers that I ordered to ensure no confusion on what was what on the flight.

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    The beers on the flight and from left to right:

    (i) Rowing Jack from AleBrowar, an IPA with a bitter ending, with a bit of pine and general tree, quite a punchy beer.

    (ii) Tower of Cats from AleBrowar, a porter which had a dark chocolate taste, a bit of coffee and was smooth with some roastiness to it.

    (iii) Coco Monkey from AleBrowar, a hazy IPA which I thought had more stone fruit than coconut, quite sweet and hoppy.

    (iv) Baile de Rosas from AleBrowar, a red IPA which was more like grapefruit juice than anything else, although it was still pleasant.

    (v) El Fruto from AleBrowar, an 8% DIPA which had no shortage of mango flavouring, so all that juiciness must be healthy.

    This was rather a lovely little bar which is well-reviewed on-line, I imagine it can get quite busy during the evening and the prices were reasonable. I didn’t eat anything as I was heading back to the airport, but they do offer pizzas and they look suitably tempting from the reviews.

  • Gdynia – AleBrowar

    Gdynia – AleBrowar

    [I originally posted this in January 2020, but have reposted it to fix some broken image links]

    This bar is owned by the AleBrowar brewery who are based near Lebork, which isn’t far from the Tricity. The bar is located in the centre of Gdynia, just a short walk from the railway station. The brewery has also been going for some time, it started brewing all the way back in 2012, so relatively early for the Polish craft beer scene.

    There’s a nice feel to the bar, which is modern and contemporary in design and the beers are clearly presented behind the counter. The bar wasn’t particularly busy when I entered, although it got a little busier as the evening progressed. The prices were reasonable and there’s also an upstairs area for when it’s a bit more packed, although that wasn’t open when I visited.

    However, the choice recommended to me wasn’t a draft option, it was the Smoky Joe bottled beer which is produced by the brewery. I can’t recall having a whisky stout and although I’m not really into whisky, I don’t dislike the flavours which it has. So, this was a perfect compromise, a stout with the notes of whisky, but still at heart a stout. There was a pleasant, and not too harsh, aftertaste of whisky, but the initial taste of the beer was quite moderate and it isn’t overly rich. As a beer though, this is excellent, as it’s creative, interesting and has some depth to it.

  • Wrocław – The Gnomes of Wrocław (Bankomatnik)

    Wrocław – The Gnomes of Wrocław (Bankomatnik)

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    In the Gnomes of Wrocław collection, this is the Bankomatnik gnome, located next to an ATM. I’m not sure whether they’re repairing it or robbing it though….

  • Wrocław – The Gnomes of Wrocław (A02 : Parasolnik / The Umbrella Gnome or Szermierz / The Fencer)

    Wrocław – The Gnomes of Wrocław (A02 : Parasolnik / The Umbrella Gnome or Szermierz / The Fencer)

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    The Umbrella Gnome, also known as the Fencer, from the Gnomes of Wrocław series, located outside the university at pl. Uniwersytecki. As if it’s not hard enough to find all of these gnomes, some have split personalities, so this one is either seen as holding an umbrella as a defence against the rain or holding a fencing foil. I mean, it looks like an umbrella to me, but the official name is the Fencer, so there we go to add to the confusion.

  • Wrocław – The Gnomes of Wrocław (A03 : Profesorek / The Professor Gnome)

    Wrocław – The Gnomes of Wrocław (A03 : Profesorek / The Professor Gnome)

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    The Professor Gnome from the Gnomes of Wrocław collection, identifiable with his glasses, book and mortarboard. He is located by the University of Wrocław and shows his love of education and academia.

  • Wrocław – National Museum in Wrocław (Stephen Báthory by Andreas Riehl)

    Wrocław – National Museum in Wrocław (Stephen Báthory by Andreas Riehl)

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    This artwork is located at the National Museum in Wrocław and this imposing chap is Stephen Báthory (1533-1586, also known as István Báthory in Hungarian, Stefan Batory in Polish), a significant historical figure who was Prince of Transylvania, Voivode of Transylvania (1571–1576), and later King of Poland and Grand Duke of Lithuania (1576–1586). The text at the top reads “By the grace of God, Stephen, King in Poland, Grand Duke in Lithuania”. Báthory was a skilled military leader who led successful campaigns against Ivan the Terrible of Russia, recovering territories lost in the Livonian War, much to the annoyance of the Russians. He also strengthened the Polish-Lithuanian army and reformed its organisation, whilst also implementing reforms in the administration and judiciary of the Commonwealth, aiming to strengthen the central government and improve the efficiency of the state.

    He was also a skilled dancer, which I’m not entirely sure that I expected from the portrait, but it’s best not to judge. It is also said that he kept a pet bear at his court, which is certainly brave and at least it wasn’t a polar bear. On top of that, he was a master swordsman and he apparently kept on fencing into his later years. Before the Second World War and also since the fall of communism, he has become something of a hero in Poland. The Russians didn’t like him though and his historical role was downplayed during the communist years, it wasn’t really the done thing to celebrate someone who had fought successfully against the Russians.

    As for the artwork, it was painted by Andrea Riehl (1551-1613) in about 1600, so after Stephen’s death. He was a German painter, but there’s not much known about his life and this is one of his most important works.