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  • Ireland – Oranmore – Porterhouse

    This restaurant and pub had a welcoming feel to it and so it seemed a shame not to pop in during our little tour of the town’s pubs….

    Any pub with a display of books meets with my approval. Although I’m not sure about how they’re stacked, but nonetheless, it does look impressive.

    The spirit room, one of a few quieter areas of the pub (although to be fair it wasn’t quiet when some members of Hike Norfolk were in there).

    The Guinness looked beautiful….. And it tasted just as I’d want it to as well. Unfortunately we weren’t eating food in the pub, it was just for drinks, but the menu did look quite interesting with curries, burgers, fish, steaks and so on. The reviews are also excellent, although a quick trip to TripAdvisor finds this review:

    “Walked into this kip after it had been recommended by a local thinking back now he probably owned this dive was put into the darkest part of the hovel and before our bums touched the seats was told we had to be gone by 7 o’clock this was about 5.30 we Will never ever enter this so called establishment again”

    Full credit to the owner for the below reply…..

    “Thank you hank for your insightful review..I can see from your sentence construction and title choice you have a strong grasp of the English language! The title actually highlights your own ignorance, you are obviously a tourist to the area looking for a reccomondatin on where to eat from a “local” (who was not myself by the way) . I’m sure you could see we were busy and that’s for good reason..we have been open for nearly 3 years now and are busier than ever which is pretty good going for a “dive”! Usually locals who eat here regulary phone ahead to reserve a table because of this! But you were ignorant to that fact also..furthermore the table where you were seated is one of the most popular in the “hovel” and was booked for 7pm! My staff always inform unbooked guests of bookings on tables so everyone is on the same page!! I do apologise for this communication as it seems to have really bothered you..anyway the next time you get behind your keyboard or smart phone to slate a successful local business on a whim, which employs 25 staff, some of which have families to support and others trying to put them selves through college to educate themselves( you should try this!!) Look at the bigger picture..and maybe a dictionary.
    Best regards”

    All the staff who we encountered in the pub seemed cheery and helpful, and if I ever come back to Oranmore I might pop in for food. After visiting the two Indian restaurants that I’ve already mentioned I’ll go to as well…..

  • Ireland – Galway – Handsome Burger

    I hadn’t had a burger for some time, so when the word got mentioned earlier on in the day I decided that I should find a suitable location that sold them in Galway. Handsome Burger was one of the best rated restaurants and it was nearly full when I entered.

    I managed to get a seat when some other customers left and the interior was clean and the restaurant seemed comfortable and organised. Customers have to order at the counter before taking a seat, a policy which is I imagine often ignored by groups reserving a table before ordering. I didn’t ignore the rule, although I didn’t have much choice as I was on my own.

    I’ve been told that the sugar content in these San Pellegrino drinks has been cut, and although I hadn’t much thought about it, there does seem to have been a deterioration in taste. Indeed there is a message on the top of the can which says that there is a new recipe, albeit one which has made the taste worse. The sugar tax has a lot to answer for….

    When I was at the counter I had initially intended to buy a beef burger but the staff member was engaging about the menu options and I felt that the staff member really sold the chicken burger. So I ordered that. The presentation wasn’t marvellous, but the burger was relatively large and the chicken was tender and moist. The coating was even, slightly crispy and had a real depth of flavour. The chips were also firm on the exterior and fluffy inside, all very lovely.

    Overall, the food was well above average and I can see why the restaurant gets so many positive reviews. The service was attentive throughout and a staff member was a little enthusiastic in trying to remove the drink that I hadn’t finished, but everyone was friendly. Although that seems to be a trend in Galway (I mean being friendly, not randomly taking my drink as that hasn’t been a problem at all).

    The price was about £11 for the meal, perhaps slightly above average, but entirely reasonable given the quality. The turnover of tables seemed quite fast and even when it was full customers seemed to be able to get a free table relatively quickly.

  • Norwich – Old Library Wood Sculptures

    These beautiful wooden sculptures and carvings have appeared in Old Library Wood in Norwich since I last walked through it around ten days ago. They look marvellous and I hope no idiot damages them, as it has been a problem area for some years. It’s nice to see that some people are making an effort to make the area visually more attractive.

  • Ireland – Oranmore – Oran Tandoori

    For our final evening meal of the week we decided that we’d opt for an Indian meal, the first time I’ve had this cuisine in Ireland. There were nine of us so we were a little concerned about getting a table, especially as there was no-one there when Susanna rang during the day. I don’t like calling people, but Susanna seems to be fearless and so she was making the calls. However, we walked by the restaurant when we arrived in Oranmore and by good fortune there was a staff member going in and he kindly took the booking outside of the restaurant.

    Our table was set out when we arrived and we were welcomed promptly. For some reason the staff thought that Dave must be in charge of this booking, I’m not sure why they felt that he looked the most important….

    The staff pro-actively brought over poppadoms, although the waiter missed that we wanted even more (some of us are quite greedy), but we made do with what we had. Half of them are visible in the above photo, with the dips being as expected and the lime pickle having some bite to it.

    This is the chicken pakora starter. Firstly, I love that they presented the lemon in a squeezer like this, it’s very rarely done and the last time I was given one of these was in Australia some years ago. The chicken was tender and full of flavour and the salad was crisp and fresh. A nicely refreshing little starter option.

    A Peshwari naan to the left and pilau rice on the right, with the naan having a pleasant flavour but it didn’t have the slightly crisp base that I really like. Behind is my chicken dopiaza on the left which again had tender chicken, a rich sauce and plenty of onions, which is inevitably important since it’s a component part of the dish. Perhaps there wasn’t the depth of flavour that there could have been, but the curry had a pleasant aftertaste and was entirely acceptable. The other two dishes are Susanna’s and she was complimentary about them, as indeed were all the other diners (I mean about their own dishes, not Susanna’s).

    The service was attentive throughout the evening and we were given a couple of free bottles of Cobra when leaving. The staff had a pleasant and helpful attitude, being willing to make slight amendments to the cuisine where required. We seem to have made a tradition of going to an Indian on these Hike Norfolk trips, there was an excellent one on the Hadrian’s Wall walk and another slightly less impressive one in Goring.

    For the price paid, this was a very lovely evening and I’d be very tempted to come again if I return to Oranmore. The only slight doubt I might have is that there is another Indian restaurant a few hundreds metres away which is nearly as well reviewed, and I’d be tempted to try that. However, knowing me, I’d just go to both anyway.

  • Ireland – Bus Drivers

    I’ve often been impressed with the engagement and friendliness of bus drivers in the United States. They’ve routinely gone off route to take me to a different location, are nearly always conversational and once the bus driver bought me snacks as I was the only passenger on the bus. I will forget the time that the bus driver opened the door to show me a snake though, as I could have been killed if the snake had launched itself onto the bus to bite me.

    However, the bus drivers for Bus Éireann were just as friendly (although none bought us snacks) and seemed personable and welcoming. A kind bus driver took a photo of us on the first day and they were helpful throughout the week as we moved to different locations on the west coast of Ireland.

    The photos above are from when our coach met another along a narrow road. The reversing required was challenging, but the other coach driver managed it with good grace. I particularly liked how the bus drivers, who didn’t work for the same company, wound down their windows and shook hands when the buses met.

    Taking everything into account, Ireland is now matching Poland in being my European land of dreams…..

  • Ireland – Cats of Oranmore

    There was a little congregation of cats in the centre of Oranmore, all looking like they were most relaxed….

  • Ireland – Oranmore Former Catholic Church and Library

    This church in Oranmore was built in 1803 for the local Roman Catholic congregation and the bellcote was added later in 1885. There had been a strong catholic community in the area for some centuries, even during the Penal Laws.

    By the late twentieth century, the building was though too small for the congregation and it was also proving to be an expensive structure to maintain. A new Roman Catholic church was constructed between 1972 and 1974 and the font from this church was moved to the new building when it opened.

    The old church was deconsecrated and fell out of use until the Church Restoration Committee offered to lease the building to Galway County Council. Renovations took place and the former church opened up as a library in 2001.

    Photos of inside the library, which has been tastefully converted and which has retained numerous features from the original building. There are books on the balcony area, although this section was closed off to the public when we were there.

    Buildings inevitably fall out of use, and this former church now has a new lease of life as a library and community centre. The graveyard has also been left intact and there are numerous graves around the exterior of the library building.

  • Ireland – Hike Norfolk Walking Trip Day 4

    After the exertions of day three we had a leisurely day of walking in the local area around Ballyvaughan on day four. That made for a short walk, but it also allowed us to see some of the history in the local area.

    Outside of the cave and birds of prey complex at Aillwee Caves. This is a popular tourist attraction, although it was noticeable that the staff at the caves weren’t willing to sell a group ticket, whilst the staff in the birds of prey section were, so I can guess which is the most popular……

    Coffee in the cafe in the visitor centre of the caves. The staff member was new and Dave helped guide her through the process of making coffee.

    We then went for a visit to the shop near to the birds of prey centre, where they make and sell various different cheeses.

    A staff member kindly gave us an introduction to the cheeses and they all tasted excellent. She actually said that she’d explain the process of making the cheese and then the sampling would start, but we’d eaten all of the cheese before the end of her presentation. My favourite incidentally was the cumin cheese.

    For those who didn’t like cheese, there was also chocolate available for purchase. Sarah H purchased several cheeses to take home, although some of us felt that she could have prepared shared just one of them before we went back home. But she was firm in saying no, although Dave was very understanding about this behaviour and didn’t really mention it again.

    From the cave complex we then walked back towards Ballyvaughan, stopping at Newtown Castle. It’s actually a tower house dating to the sixteenth century and it fell into a state of some disrepair before being restored as part of the Burren College of Art complex.

    Outside of the castle.

    A smaller version of the castle.

    Joy and me inside the castle.

    Other photos from inside the castle. The restoration of the building seemed quite thorough, but there was still a lot of green damp which permeated through the structure. There are some information boards on the top floor giving details about its history and admission is free of charge.

    The children wanted to play in the playground….

    The purchase of Hiki, the new Hike Norfolk mascot, which was supervised by Susanna.

    Hiki in the cafe at the castle.

    What a lovely daffodil.

    Some of the group decided to play poohsticks, although I think half the sticks got jammed under the bridge and no-one was sure which stick got through first……

    Following a short walk to the pier, we went to the Hylands Burren hotel where six of the group were staying. Steve B and I retired to the upstairs lounge, which was rather peaceful and lovely, and Maggie very kindly came to deliver us coffees. Although she didn’t bring us any snacks, but we didn’t hold that against her.

    In the evening, we had food at the hotel, although more on this in another post. Dave had several of his new favourite Guinness and blackcurrant drinks and Sarah was overheard by the hotel owner when she mentioned that her shower wasn’t producing hot water. Full marks for observant hotel staff it must be said.

    So, a nice relaxing day with no injuries and quite a few coffees…..

  • Ireland – Hike Norfolk Walking Trip Day 3

    After the relatively short walk of day two, the third day was a circular walk around the Blackhead Loop, an optional extension to the Burren Way. Sarah, Steve B and myself had an Irish breakfast at our B&B, knowing that we had the luxury of sitting about for a little while whilst the others caught the bus to us.

    So, the eventful day started with three of us waiting in Fanore for the others to arrive by bus. This should have been easy. Now, I’m not one to allocate blame, but how the others managed to get off the bus at the wrong point is a complete mystery to me. All they had to do was to get off the bus at the point they’d got on it the day before. But it’s not for me to use words such as ‘hopeless’…. Although if it were appropriate for me to use words, ‘hopeless’, ‘inept’ and ‘incompetent’ would be right up there.

    Some of us briefly kicked a football about that we had found on the road before returning it to the location that it should have been. We assume that the school was the correct location, as otherwise the owner of the football would be quite irritated that their ball ended up there….

    Steve B jumping back down from the rock after the photograph had been taken. I wasn’t stupid enough to climb up the bloody thing in the first place, it seemed far too raucous for my liking.

    The first part of the walk was alongside the side of a hill and as it was elevated we had marvellous views of the coastline. The colours of the sea are visible in some of the above photos (well, technically there’s colour in every photo I upload, but use your imagination here) and it felt a remote part of the country.

    We actually only saw a couple of people all day on this week, although I imagine that it’s a much more popular area during the summer months. The signage was again good throughout the walk, with only a few moments where I had to check the .gpx file.

    Here is a photo of one of the killer cows which we had to walk by. I appointed Steve M as my bodyguard when we walked by this violent and aggressive animal, as can be seen in the above photo.

    The walk was initially on wide paths (although some of them were just a little muddy) but this changed to a more challenging environment of minor scrambling (well, what I call scrambling), bridges and other random structures. I really enjoyed this part though as the path twisted and turned along the side of the hill. Susanna seemed marginally less impressed because of the state of her foot.

    The next part of the walk remained coastal, until we cut through between two hills. Now, there was a lot of complaining at this point from some members of the group, who decided that they thought the hill was more hilly than I’d pointed out. Frankly, I ignored their complaints, but I said that I was responsive to feedback. Although I obviously wasn’t.

    Here’s one of my favourite photos of the trip.

    And here’s the behind the scenes photo of the participants getting into place.

    Crossing over the hills as we started to go back into Fanore. There was a point where a few people thought it’d be a great idea to walk a different way back to Ballyvaughan. I didn’t, and despite the mutterings of people who said they would miss their bus, I bravely and courageously led the troops back to Fanore. There was though a slightly worrying moment where I thought the path went over another mountain, but all ended up well.

    Mountains goats that we saw towards the end of the walk.

    We were incidentally back in Fanore an hour early so the decision of the Ballyvaughan six not to buy a return ticket as they thought they’d miss it was proven to be completely idiotic…. But I didn’t say anything at the time, I didn’t like to sneer. Although on reflection, I think I might have said something.

    After the walk had finished, the three of us staying in Fanore thought that we’d go down to Fanore Beach. It’s a large expanse of sand and it’s one of the few proper sandy beaches that we saw on the west coast of Ireland during the trip.

    I think during our time on the beach we all misjudged the waves slightly and managed to get wet feet….

    Some more beach photos….

    A random stone I saw which stood out a little in the landscape. We also walked by what appeared to have been a deserted village, a throw back to the Irish famine in the mid-nineteenth century which forced many to have to leave their homeland.

    In the evening six of the group returned to their hotel in Ballyvaughan, whilst we decided that another Masterchef performance was necessary in Sarah’s Fanore accommodation. This time it was microwave lasagne for Steve B and Sarah, whilst I went for chicken kievs, and I was rather pleased with my choice. No Viennetta was consumed, as we instead had purchased an apple pie made by one of the locals in the village, and it tasted rather lovely.

    Sarah walking back with our provisions for the evening. We were given permission to take the basket and it was returned by Sarah to the village shop the next morning.

    So, another lovely day, although as mentioned, some members of the group complained a bit. Well, a lot. The nice thing about this group though is that they complain quite loudly so I can hear the complaints, meaning that I can find someone to pass the blame to. Admittedly the hills were a little higher than I had imagined, but the route was genuinely gorgeous and the coastal views much better than I had been expecting. Lots of different types of terrain were encountered during the day, and Susanna battled on marvellously with her injured foot.

  • Ireland – Hike Norfolk Walking Trip Day 2

    Day one had been a challenging day in terms of the weather, but the second day was far more leisurely. We arranged to meet up at 09:30 near to the accommodation closest to Dave and myself, and only two people were late. But it was only by four minutes, so that was acceptable. Sort of.

    We were walking from Doolin to Fanore and I decided to follow the Burren Way rather than take the coast road. The signage is pretty good along the entire route of the Burren Way and it would be difficult to go too far wrong.

    Susanna has spent the week singing the tune to a song that she can’t identify. Despite her remembering it perfectly and making lyrical noises of some clarity, no-one has a bloody clue what tune it is. Above she’s performing another impromptu rendition of the ditty….

    The walk wasn’t particularly far, only around eight miles, and so we were done by late lunch-time, one of my earliest finishes to a walk. Although we were on the Burren Way which is a little inland, there were though excellent views over the coast.

    We were also welcomed to Fanore with a rather lovely rainbow over the Atlantic Ocean.

    Initially the plan had been to visit either the pub or cafe for lunch, and this seemed like a marvellous plan. However, the bloody pub was shut and the cafe had shut down. Instead we piled into the little shop in the village whilst Dave managed to take control of the sandwich purchasing project. This involved the poor man in the shop having to make a pile of sandwiches whilst also dealing with all of the other customers coming in. But, since this was Ireland, no-one minded and the atmosphere was convivial. Well, not from me it wasn’t, as I wanted to go into the pub, which we discovered wasn’t open until 8pm. We knew this as Maggie knocked on the window of O’Donohues to find out.

    Three of us were located in a small B&B in Fanore, so we had a little wander down to the sea. The rest of the party went onto their accommodation in Ballyvaughan, a hotel which was run by a former TD (more on this accommodation later).

     

    The highlight of the trip down to the beach (and indeed the whole week for me) was seeing Rosie, a border collie who was full of enthusiasm and excitement. Although I find that border collies usually are.

    She helpfully posed for a photograph, such a well behaved dog.

    Steve playing with the dog.

    Steve taking photos of the sea, and he also took some artistic photos which can be seen on his Facebook page.

    It was a really nice area to visit and take some photos, with no-one else around during the time which we were there.

    Whilst the others were arguing and drinking away in Ballyvaughan, plans were being drawn up as to what the three residents of Fanore were going to eat since everything was now shut. Steve had a marvellous idea to make a lasagne, so we went back to the village shop excited about all the marvellous opportunities that might be available to us.

    We discovered that they didn’t have much in the way of meat, or indeed vegetables. I wasn’t too bothered by this though as the shop had Dr. Oetker’s pizzas and this sort of food seemed perfect to me. So we purchased three pizzas, potato wedges, two bottles of wine, some crisps (they were my idea) and a Viennetta.

    Sarah and Steve supervised the cooking arrangements and for this Sarah was to win the cook of the week. I dealt with the cooking and plating up of the Viennetta, a role which I excelled in, especially since the cooking element was rather minimal. We discovered that the Viennetta that we had purchased was designed for ten people, and Steve and Sarah only wanted a portion size for 2.5 people each, meaning I was stuck with five portions of Viennetta. This wasn’t a problem, although I decided that we probably wouldn’t get another one for the following day. There’s a limit to how much Viennetta is healthy for one person…..

    Actually, on to the B&B that we had selected, which was Annaly House, just a short walk away from the beating heart of the village with its closed pub and cafe. The owner was friendly and helpful, and she had a charming dog which greeted us. Two of us had normal sized rooms, which Sarah was presented with an entire extension which had two floors and cooking facilities. Given this situation, Steve and I decided to make her accommodation our shared lounge, so this was a win-win. Well, technically a win-win-lose.

    So, another marvellous day, more sedate and peaceful than the first, and we about to walk a route on day three which was to test even the most hardened of souls in the group…..