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  • 2022 US Trip – Day 7 (Holocaust Museum in Richmond)

    2022 US Trip – Day 7 (Holocaust Museum in Richmond)

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    I had to rush to this museum after a longer than expected visit to the Capitol and that meant I only had thirty minutes to look around. It’s difficult knowing how to pace a visit when having limited time and also not knowing how big the museum is, but fortunately I got to see just about everything other than a few temporary exhibits upstairs without rushing too much. The building is a former American Tobacco Company Warehouse which was given to the museum by the Virginia General Assembly.

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    This recreation of a concentration camp is certainly quite a dramatic first exhibit in the museum.

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    I think every Holocaust museum tries to acquire a concentration camp prison jacket, with this one likely being from Sachsenhausen concentration camp. A US military officer was able to visit East Germany following the end of the Second World War and he acquired a number of jackets, including this one. It has two prison numbers so was likely worn by two different individuals, but it’s not known what happened to them.

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    There’s a lot of powerful imagery throughout this museum, with this area representing the horrors of Kristallnacht. Unfortunately, there aren’t a vast number of original exhibits, but that’s not surprising as there aren’t that many still in existence and numerous institutions like to have items such as this to help tell the story of the Nazi hate.

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    There is a sad story behind these packing cases, which were received by the Jewel family in Richmond in 1940. They were sent from Austria by individuals trying to flee the worsening Nazi regime and it’s thought this was about the time of Kristallnacht. Unfortunately, the individuals who sent their items never managed to flee and there’s a final sadness that their possessions were damaged en route. It’s hard not to think of the care with which they likely packed these cases and their uncertainty about their own future, a story which unfortunately has no positive ending.

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    A recreation of the St. Louis debacle which I’m surprised I haven’t written about before as I’ve come across this appalling story in numerous museums. In short, the St. Louis boat set off from Hamburg in an attempt to get to Cuba and from there many hoped to enter the United States. Those poor souls were fleeing occupation, but other than for a handful of people, they then were refused entry into Cuba by the country’ President, even though they had the appropriate documentation. Then, the United States refused to accept them as well, even though they were sailing near to Miami and there was opportunity for them to disembark.

    The forsaken individuals were accepted back in Europe by countries such as Belgium, the Netherlands, the UK and France, but some went to areas which were overtaken by Nazis during the Second World War and they didn’t make it out alive. It’s thought that of the 936 refugees who tried to leave in early 1939, 227 died during the war. In 2012, the United States apologised for this travesty of justice and then in 2017, Canada did the same. Unfortunately, Canada’s general behaviour over many years in blocking Jews entering their country was horrific and one which they’ve struggled in many ways to deal with and there’s a powerful memorial about this in Canada called the Wheel of Conscience, with more information at https://pier21.ca/wheel-conscience.

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    Most photographs that I see at Holocaust and museums covering the Second World War are ones that I’ve seen before, as the Nazis tried to block evidence of their brutality and so there’s not that much out there in terms of media. These ones from Kovno, which is Kaunas in Lithuania, are ones that I haven’t seen before and are certainly horrific. Without going into excessive details, the idea of being forced to drink water is horrific and I can’t imagine what these people went through.

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    An armband originally worn by someone fleeing Kaunas.

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    These drawings are from Terezin, which I visited earlier on during the year.

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    This memorial marks the 1.5 million Jewish children who lost their lives during the Second World War.

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    Names of the many children who died are listed on the memorial.

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    There’s little let up on the imagery as these two photos show, but for many of their younger visitors, who are primarily from the US of course, I imagine much of this is new to them and it’s a useful way of explaining the narrative.

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    There’s a large section of the museum which focuses on the creation of Israel.

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    I was particularly interested to see how they dealt with the Nuremberg court rooms as I visited the real ones a few months ago.

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    It’s a fairly life like recreation of the court room to be fair within the limitations of the height that they had to play with.

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    This 50 rpm record has a recording of the judgements that were read out at the trials.

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    This is a recreation of a Jewish synagogue from Kaunas, with the area also being used for lectures.

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    The recreation of the synagogue was made more authentic as staff went to Lithuania to take measurements and photographs, with this reconstruction opening in November 2005.

    I could have spent longer here than the thirty minutes that I had, not least as I didn’t get chance to visit upstairs, but I found it an interesting and well put together museum. Perhaps some of the imagery was a bit dramatic, and some broken lighting made a few areas quite spooky insomuch as I couldn’t see where I was going for a few seconds, but given it was free of charge to enter I have no complaints. Indeed, it’s very well reviewed by the vast majority of people who have visited, although a few did feel that the imagery was a bit too much at times. However, given the number of school visits that they get, it doesn’t seem inappropriate to tell the story of the Holocaust in different ways.

    It’s clearly a well funded museum as it’s a large location which isn’t charging for admission and they’re also embarking on a modernisation as the permanent exhibits haven’t been substantially updated since they opened in 2003. Inevitably this museum isn’t as large as the Holocaust Museum in Washington DC, but it still attempts to tell the story in the best way that they can. Definitely recommended though and best to take an hour or two to look around.

  • 2022 US Trip – Day 7 (Wrong Way)

    2022 US Trip – Day 7 (Wrong Way)

    I took this in Richmond, Virginia and not in Birmingham at the Conservative Party conference with Liz Truss. Anyway, enough politics for this blog, back to the usual history, complaints and bars….

  • 2022 US Trip – Day 7 (Southern Railway Taphouse)

    2022 US Trip – Day 7 (Southern Railway Taphouse)

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    Founded in 2013, this pub and restaurant is located near to Richmond’s main railway station and the building was previously used as offices. It takes its name from the formidable Southern Railway, which was formed following the merger over many decades of over 150 railroads.

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    It seemed busy at first with the bar and main restaurant area being full, but fortunately there was a quiet spot near to a power outlet available. I had been drawn to this venue as they were listed on Untappd and the prices for food and drink seemed reasonable.

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    My quiet corner, just as I like it, away from loud music and raucousness.

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    The food menu, not huge as that’s something that tends to worry me, but with plenty of choice.

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    I went for the Speedway Stout from AleSmith Brewing Company, a very agreeable imperial stout with a richness of taste. Not particularly local as it’s from San Diego, but I’ve seen the beer on menus before and felt it appropriate to try it here. I felt it complemented my choice of meal very well, although I think stout goes with nearly everything, especially crisps.

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    Note my bag was given its own seat and this is the bison burger. I’m not actually sure that I would have noticed that this was bison as opposed to beef, but it had a pleasant flavour and it was sufficiently filling for my needs. Everything was at the appropriate hot temperature and there were a decent number of chips.

    One negative was that a credit card fee was added to my bill, although technically I had paid with a debit card, but I accept that likely makes little difference. I’ve never seen this on my many visits to the United States and it was an unwelcome addition. I must admit to lowering my tip for my first time in the US as no-one had pointed this charge out to me, so the restaurant received the bill amount I expected plus 20% as the tip. In the UK the practice has been made illegal, as it has in numerous US states as well and I can imagine that number will increase as it does no good for the customer service element. It was only a small addition, but I’d rather places were transparent if they’re going to charge it.

    It’s a decent restaurant and bar, although the reviews are a little mediocre in places, seemingly because of indifferent service at times. I found the team members to be personable and helpful, especially ensuring that I wasn’t placed near to the very loud birthday group. The prices were reasonable and I like that they’ve made an effort to become involved with Untappd and to have several different beers available across a number of styles.

  • 2022 US Trip – Day 7 (Richmond Main Street Amtrak Station and Travelling to Williamsburg)

    2022 US Trip – Day 7 (Richmond Main Street Amtrak Station and Travelling to Williamsburg)

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    I’d enjoyed my less than one day in Richmond, but it was time to move on to Williamsburg for the weekend.

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    It’s a large building and as I mentioned on my post about arriving into the city, there was a period until relatively recently when Richmond didn’t have a central railway station. The railway station was built in 1901 and by the 1920s there were 20 services a day arriving into Richmond. Also, the floor level has changed here, that is a warehouse section at the rear that once had an extra level below, but I think it was the extensive flooding from Hurricane Agnes in 1972 that changed that and required a reworking of the area. The rail service left in 1975, instead using the Staples Mill Road station a few miles outside of Richmond, with the building being badly damaged by fires in 1976 and 1983. It would have been easy to give up at this point, but repairs were made and in 2003 the city got its central railway station back.

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    I still find it odd to see “no firearms” signs, I’m used to taking that as read in the UK.

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    This looks peaceful, but there was a large wedding party going on in the other part of the room. Just behind me the groom and his party were being introduced to the cheering masses that I couldn’t see and it was all a bit raucous for me. It was actually an odd sight, a combination of tired looking rail passengers waiting to board effectively in the middle of a wedding reception. We also weren’t allowed to wait outside, the doors here are locked until just before the train arrives.

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    I had got talking to a local person who was really knowledgeable about British politics and we ended up in conversation until I got off in Williamsburg. His politics were obvious as he was wearing a “I am a Democrat” badge, but he had travelled extensively, he was engaged about European politics and it was interesting finding out more about American politics, which I’ve been trying to understand recently ahead of the mid-terms. That meant the time went by quickly and not only was I pleased for the chat about global affairs, it also meant he was able to ensure I was in the right place at the right time to get the train. I’m not saying I would have got muddled up and accidentally joined the wedding party instead, but it’s nice to have local knowledge.

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    Finally allowed out onto the platform.

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    Here it comes, the Amtrak train and I’m pleased to see the huge level of investment that is being put into this New York to Richmond line, with more on this at https://www.washingtonpost.com/transportation/2021/09/27/amtrak-trains-virginia-richmond/. The train I was boarding was the continuation of the one that I had been on the day before, with the entire route being the Amtrak North East Regional train service from Boston to Newport News (including New York, Baltimore, Washington, Richmond and WIlliamsburg).

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    Staff check tickets before boarding and then send people to the appropriate carriage, although they seemed less concerned this far into the journey and I imagine it didn’t matter much as this was one of the last few stops.

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    And disembarking, safely in Williamsburg. I didn’t get any photos of inside the train as I was merrily chatting to my new politics friend, but there are many more Amtrak train reports to come…..

  • 2022 US Trip – Day 7 (Rodeway Inn Historic Williamsburg)

    2022 US Trip – Day 7 (Rodeway Inn Historic Williamsburg)

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    After a far from ideal walk in the dark from the Amtrak railway station in Williamsburg where the authorities had forgotten to put sidewalks in places, I checked into the Rodeway Inn which was the first proper hotel of this trip. I arrived in the dark, but my nighttime photo was a bit blurry, so here’s the front of the hotel the following morning. Price-wise, the hotel was around £50 per night including breakfast, which I thought was very reasonable given the current exchange rate.

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    The room was the traditional American motel style, spacious and with a powerful air conditioning unit which I very much liked. They like the colour brown in a lot of these motels, I’m not sure it’s the most uplifting of colours. But, it was clean and comfortable, so all was well.

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    They were selling very reasonably priced Gatorade at reception, so that was the evening’s drinks of choice.

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    This was the breakfast the following morning, the usual really healthy doughnuts and muffins type selection, along with orange juice and coffee. I have to say it’s not the fine choice of cheeses and meats that I love from mainland Europe, but I don’t mind a doughnut or eight.

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    Oops.

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    I decided to incorporate a banana on my second morning at the hotel…..

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    This felt very southern American, with every room having its own bench to sit and look out onto the car park with. It annoyed me slightly that people did this as I had to keep saying hello to them as I walked by, this definitely wouldn’t catch on in the UK.

    I liked my two nights at this hotel, it was quiet and it seemed family run as these Choice Hotels franchises normally are. I was pleased with everything for the price and it’s only about a ten minute walk into the centre of historic Williamsburg, so it was ideally suited for my needs. I’m not sure that I’ll have a need to stay in Williamsburg again in the near future, but I’d stay here again if I did.

  • 2022 US Trip – Day 8 (Visiting Williamsburg Instead of Jamestown)

    2022 US Trip – Day 8 (Visiting Williamsburg Instead of Jamestown)

    My initial intention for the weekend was to visit Jamestown, the site of the first permanent settlement of the Americas by English colonists. However, talking to the lady at the Capitol the day before, she suggested some other things to do that she thought were at least equally as interesting. Some of those required a car, but she mentioned that there were more things to see in Williamsburg itself than I had realised.

    The situation at Jamestown is something of an expensive mess for visitors as there are two different sites of which one is a recreation of the initial settlement with performers in the clothing of the time, whilst the other is effectively the archaeological investigation of the actual site. The former didn’t much interest me, I’m interested in structures, buildings and not some form of period open air museum. The other would have been interesting, but it was expensive and also lengthy to get to by public transport (one bus an hour and the journey is over an hour each way), so I was tempted by that, but decided to stick to Williamsburg. I think if I had a car then that might have tipped the balance, as it would have been quite thought provoking to be in the same place as the early settlers.

    However, I’m very pleased that I made the decision that I did to spend the time in Williamsburg itself, as I didn’t realise just how much there was to see there. I also got a real impression of what life was like for early colonists, as they moved there relatively early on from Jamestown, indeed in a way that was more authentic as many buildings had survived from that period. Also, for practical reasons, there was a very heavy period of rain, which was enough for a severe weather warning (and more later on the damage done by that) and so I would have got very wet.

    I left Williamsburg feeling much more informed about how the early colonists lived, how their settlement developed and also how it started to decline. Maybe at some point in the future I’ll return to visit Jamestown, but I was pleased to have had the experience of understanding how this colony developed.

  • 2022 US Trip – Day 8 (Williamsburg Capitol Building)

    2022 US Trip – Day 8 (Williamsburg Capitol Building)

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    Unfortunately, much of the Capitol building in Williamsburg is under scaffolding so it’s not possible at the moment to see it in quite its full glory.

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    This photo from the side is better, but it’s the history of what was once here that’s important. The current building is a recreation dating to 1934 when Colonial Williamsburg was being created as effectively an open-air museum, but it’s on the same site and was meant to look the same as the original Capitol building that was first constructed here in 1705. Virginia’s first Capitol was built in Jamestown, but that burned down (again) in 1698 and they moved it inland to Williamsburg partly for defensive reasons and partly because they were tired of living in a swamp. It took just under four years to build and there was a wing for the Governor’s Council and a wing for the House of Burgesses.

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    Things went well for quite a while, or at least until 1747 when the Capitol building burned down which wasn’t ideal. It was a marginal decision, by just a handful of votes, that voted for a reconstruction of the building rather than moving to another location in Virginia, but the replacement Capitol was constructed between 1748 and 1753. That lasted until 1779, when they finally moved to Richmond for defensive purposes because of the effects of the American War of Independence, with its last meeting on 24 December 1779. That was when the Capitol building in Richmond came into usage, which I had already visited.

    In the meantime though, there had been some impressive speakers at the Capitol building between 1753 and 1779, including George Washington, Thomas Jefferson and Richard Henry Lee. And, also, if history would have played out differently, Williamsburg might well have remained the capital of Virginia if Richmond hadn’t of taken its place. Incidentally, George Washington knew Williamsburg well and visited on numerous occasions, including spending his honeymoon here.

    As for the Capitol building in Williamsburg, it became rather abandoned and forgotten about. The east wing was taken down in 1800 before it fell down and then most of the remains were destroyed by fire in 1832. That was the end of the original buildings, with only the foundations remaining, until it was decided to reconstruct it in 1934. Rather unglamorously in 1881 the line of the Peninsula Extension was built right through the middle of Williamsburg along Duke of Gloucester Street and went straight through the former Capitol building, not entirely respectful of the heritage of their colony. Anyway, that lasted from 16 October to 13 December 1881 when all other manner of complaints meant they shifted that section of the railway a little to the north, where it remains today.

    I didn’t go inside, but for anyone interested, there’s a complete walk-through of the building at https://virtualtours.colonialwilliamsburg.org/capitol/.

  • 2022 US Trip – Day 8 (Secretary’s Office at Williamsburg – Oldest Archival Building)

    2022 US Trip – Day 8 (Secretary’s Office at Williamsburg – Oldest Archival Building)

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    I very much love an archival building, there’s something about books, archives, documents and the like that just captivate me. And this is the oldest archival building in the western hemisphere, or that’s what the museum claims. I’m not sure that I can actually think of a building in the UK that’s earlier than this that was solely built for storing documents (as opposed to storing them within part of an existing building), so I can’t dispute their claim. They built it because the Capitol building caught fire in 1747 and they lost their documents, so they wanted a fireproof structure where nothing could be destroyed. And this is it, known as the Secretary’s Office where county clerks were also trained and clerical work was completed. It’s heavily restored, but some of the structure is original.

  • 2022 US Trip – Day 8 (Charlton’s Coffeehouse at Williamsburg)

    2022 US Trip – Day 8 (Charlton’s Coffeehouse at Williamsburg)

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    This building is new and is one of the few recent additions to Colonial Williamsburg, which was mostly laid out in the 1930s. Given that it’s a recent construction, it’s allowed historians to have more knowledge and resources into ensuring its historical accuracy, so although it’s not an original building there is still an authenticity to it. The original structure was built as a store and private residence in 1750, before being turned into a coffeehouse which was operated by Richard Charlton in the mid 1760s.

    The element that interests me most about this location is that in October 1765 this is where there was resistance against the Stamp Act which had been imposed by the British Parliament. And as it was a coffeehouse, this is where the centre of gossip would have been, where chat took place about the state of politics as well as where business was transacted. So, on this spot, debate raged about the impositions that the British were placing on those living in Virginia and the locals stoked up division in some Daily Mail sort of way.

    Back to the Stamp Act though, a ridiculous piece of legislation which meant that most documents issued in Williamsburg and across the colonies would have to be published on paper from London which had been embossed with an official stamp. Not only that, but this paper had to be paid for using British money and not the money that the colonists used. Local man Patrick Henry had earlier on in 1765 given a speech against the Stamp Act in the House of Burgesses, but the situation got worse and protests broke out in the street. On 30 October 1765, a crowd harassed George Mercer when he was walking down Duke of Gloucester Street (which is the street I’m standing on in the above photo) as they wanted to know whether he would become the Commissioner in charge of enforcing the Stamp Duty tax in Virginia. Not content only with chasing him down the street and onto the porch of the coffeehouse, the locals then burnt an effigy of him. Mercer had a little think about this whole arrangement and decided not to take the job of Commissioner, which seems a very sensible call to me.

    Anyway, although the building here might not be original, the location where all this happened is authentic and this is a piece of American history that I’ve only really read about before.

  • 2022 US Trip – Day 8 (Alexander Craig House at Williamsburg)

    2022 US Trip – Day 8 (Alexander Craig House at Williamsburg)

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    There are literally hundreds of buildings in Colonial Williamsburg and the element that I liked is that just about all of them have a little plaque on them explaining the history of the structure and also whether it’s original or reconstructed. This is Alexander Craig House and he was a saddler who purchased this house in 1755. Until his death in 1776, he lived in the section to the left and ran his business from the section on the right.

    This is also one of the original buildings, known about from as early as 1712 although would have been constructed earlier than this, first owned by Susanna Allen and then transferred to a glazier J White (not Julian, it was John, but I liked the link) in 1734 and then were a series of owners from thereon in. In 1752, the barber and wigmaker William Peake purchased the building and it was him who sold it to Alexander Craig. One thing that is remarkable about the town is the survival of documents (not least down to the building that they constructed for that purpose) and not only have leases of sale survived, but they even have inventories of what was in each property.

    I can’t list everything that Susanna Allen, as an example, owned, but the level of detail is exceptional. Below is just one part of the inventory of her property in 1720:

    1 Long Oval Table £ 1.1.5.0
    1 large looking Glass 2.10.0
    1 Small Do 0. 6.0
    1 pr window Curtains 0. 2.0
    1 pr Small Iron doggs 0. 4.0
    1 pr Small money Scales 0. 4.0
    7 leather Chairs high backs 2. 5.0
    8 old Chairs 1. 5.0
    1 pr large doggs 1. 0.0
    1 pott Rack 0. 1.0
    3 brass pails 2. 5.0
    2 Tables 1 Chest & Lumber 0.12.6
    5 old Chairs 0.15.0
    [torn] Curtains 0.55.0
    [torn] Do 1.0.0
    [torn] 0.10.0
    [torn] jugs & 1 old Counterpin 2.5.0
    7 beds & 1 old quilt 16.5.0
    1 torn] Table & press bedsteads 10.0.0
    6 old Chairs 1.5.0
    2 old Chests 0.8.0
    1 bedstead & hyde 0.10.0
    1 Tea Kettle 0.10.0
    2 Sifters 0.1.10
    1 pr money Scales 0. 7.6
    130 lb old pewter @ 9d 4.17.6
    5 Tankards & 1-qt pott 0.10.0
    11 old Spoons 0.1.3
    1 looking Glass 0.2.6
    11 knives 0.5.6
    1 doz. Napkins 2 Table Cloths 0.19.0
    6 Course Towels 2 pillow Cases 0. 9.6
    14 pr Sheets 7. 5.0
    2 old Table Cloths 2 pillow Cases 0. 5.0
    1 press of Books 0.10.0

    Holmes, Clyde, “Alexander Craig House,” John D. Rockefeller Jr. Library, Colonial Williamsburg Foundation, accessed October 7, 2022, https://rocklib.omeka.net/items/show/1751.

    And here’s what the property looked like (it’s the one on the right) in the early 1930s, before it was restored as part of the Colonial Williamsburg project. Going back to an earlier point that I made about not visiting Jamestown, this was the sort of story that I was engaged with, how the very early colonists lived their lives whilst still sort of under British rule. Alexander Craig was apparently one of the most successful early saddlers in the colonies and he went there in around 1748, moving him and his wife from Glasgow to seek new opportunities, as well as having six children in Virginia.

    I know this sort of text must sound very dry and perhaps lacking in much interest to most people, but this whole town is so packed with social history from the seventeenth century, not just relating to the colonies themselves, but also the areas from which they came.